Possible Vcis/Vtcs issue?

yea im anxious to know what went wrong too... i have done over 1k miles since the rebuild with no real isues except that annoying sound that this thread is about. i wonder if that sound is the culprit and what the results will be. i will start the tear down tomorrow and see what i can find out. the only other issue i had was a slight surging when in higher RPM's i also wonder if the 2 were connected
 
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I'm getting a "Lean Code" (P0171) and a "Intake Shutter Valve Solenoid Code" (P0660) from the dealer. Is this tied to the VCIS or VTCS? Can I buy a part at the dealer or Autozone to remedy one or both codes?
 
The P0660 code is for a malfunction of the VICS solenoid. It is definitely tied to the VICS system. A new solenoid will almost certainly clear that P0660 code. Although they are around $70 from the dealer so check the connections and wiring first.

FSM page 0102B119

Quote from cheesehelmut Oct. 2009: Just ordered the solenoid from mazda, the part number is FS05-18-741 and it cost $72. Hopefully they'll have it by the end of the week.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123756391-VICS-solenoid-broken-what-does-that-mean
 
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The P0660 code is for a malfunction of the VICS solenoid. It is definitely tied to the VICS system. A new solenoid will almost certainly clear that P0660 code. Although they are around $70 from the dealer so check the connections and wiring first.

FSM page 01–02B–119

Quote from cheesehelmut Oct. 2009: Just ordered the solenoid from mazda, the part number is FS05-18-741 and it cost $72. Hopefully they'll have it by the end of the week.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123756391-VICS-solenoid-broken-what-does-that-mean

Thanks for your help, I have 1 on order based on your info.
 
s***, I hope your getting the right one, I might PM cheesehelmut to clarify that part number.

Actually he'll probably see the other thread. I posted my confusion there.
 
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OK Update i pulled the pan and had plenty of oil in it and hardly any shavings i know from engine break in period there would be a little bit . then someone told me my clutch could have grenaded and is locking the engine so today i dropped the transmission but the clutch did not grenade so it is the engine that is siezed which is interesting cuz it didnt over heat or run out of oil. imma bout to pull the mbsp and take a deeper look but so far im lost as to y it happened
 
well it seems the number 5 main bearing welded itself to the crankshaft all the others looked great and the rods too but that number 5 main bearing cap will not come off for nothing.. i pried i pulled i hammered i screwed and it wont budge so that has to be the culprit but y did it happen? i dont have a clue cuz it was new bearings and a good crank. so i guess this whole thread was a noise that was caused by a main bearing going bad for some odd reason thus causing the mystery noise some of us are experiencing.
 
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So you're thinking the noise is caused by the crank wobbling around in that spot? Maybe the bearing spun which caused it to rattle when not under load. Of course that doesn't tell us why it happened in the first place.

This is the engine noise you had before the rebuild, too?
 
So you're thinking the noise is caused by the crank wobbling around in that spot? Maybe the bearing spun which caused it to rattle when not under load. Of course that doesn't tell us why it happened in the first place.

This is the engine noise you had before the rebuild, too?
No the noise i had before was a sure fire rod knock a loud mid pitched thump thump thump at idle and all revs. it was pretty clear what that was but this noise was a rattle at a certain rom range did not sound like a bearing to me but i guess it was.. as far as y it happened only thing i can guess is po tried to repair bearings once before because the main bearing support plate was broken (they didnt know bout the 2 hidden bolts) and jb welded together. i replaced that plate when i did the rebuild and all bearing had scorings but the mains didnt seem to have damaged the caps or block but now i think it did and the po threw in new bearings which wore out n started knocking then he sold it to me. and i went by he bearing in it and didnt inspect the main caps for ovaling or the block for damage cuz it still had those bearings in tact
 
ok so the noise was for sure the number 5 main bearing.. i installed another block with the all my other parts i had on the other block and i no longer have that noise.. it was a bad build with a damaged main bearing cap so if ur having this noise check ur main bearings before it locks up like mine did
 
I have over 10k miles on the noise and the switch to synthetic pretty much eliminated it. Now I can only barely hear it when the engine is warmed up. Hopefully it'll be good for a while.

Is #5 the last one before the flywheel/flexplate?
 
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