Struts + sway bars

kosteniuks17

Member
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Mazda Protege5 2003
So I have a set of 4 tokico blues coming in the mail tomorrow and was currently looking up about sway bars for the protege5. I see that ya'll have posted that the awr are really good. Anyways my question is whats the difference between sway bar and sway bar links. Like is their a difference? Is there actually an additionally bar that comes with the awr combo? For some reason idk dont feel to enthused about the adjustable links. Is there any manufacture links that are non-adjustable and good also. I was looking at these
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

Is this package considered rear sway bar? Or just links? Also I heard the fronts are a pain, so im thinking just do the rears to give it a bit more balance under the hatch weight. Any advice would help.

Thanks alot,
 
I've been running a Progress rr sway with oem endlinks that came on the car 10 yrs ago, lowered 1.4 on Illuminas, without issue. Front is a pain in the ass to **** with and nothing to gain from oem from what many have posted over the years.
 
So i think im going to go with the progress bar for the rear, 22 mm size it says. So last question, if I were to purchase that bar, would i need a specific end links to match it? Or would the ones I have linked above fit fine through the holes?
 
So i think im going to go with the progress bar for the rear, 22 mm size it says. So last question, if I were to purchase that bar, would i need a specific end links to match it? Or would the ones I have linked above fit fine through the holes?
See post #2............oem links fit fine. Just bolt up the 22mm brackets and connect the endlinks then enjoy the bonus 3 wheel action when you go into driveways and parking lots at angles. It will lift the near side wheel off the ground, lol. Tightens up the rear great tho. An MX-6 rr stb also will help back there. Swapped mine out for a nice gtspec one awhile back.


You can see the endlink connection to the progress sway on left side of this pic.........
gtspec_arms02.JPG


Here is the GTSpec rr stb..................
gtspec_rr_stb01.JPG


And here is old pic of the MX-6 rr stb..........
323F_Mar2012_14.JPG

they can be had for 25 or so off ebay...at least they used to.
 
If I were to install the struts all in one day. Would I still be able to go back another day and take off the old rear sway bar and swap it as well as the endlinks? Or would I have to do it all in one day.
 
swapping the sway bar should only take around 20 min if none of the bolts are seized on the endlinks. Seized endlink bolts are common and are the main reason swaybar/endlink installation can take a while. you might also want to look into a racingbeat rear swaybar that came on the msp and mp3, the one I had i picked up off the forum for under $80 shipped.
 
Read about the infamous clunking with the MSP/MP3 RSB bushings. Any way to avoid this if one were to put those RSBs on the P5? Did they ever come out with a permanent fix? I know Mazda came out with multiple revisions but the clunking would always come back at some point.
 
If you don't get to the rsb, it's no biggie. I've been running without one for a couple of years now...don't ask.... :(
 
Read about the infamous clunking with the MSP/MP3 RSB bushings. Any way to avoid this if one were to put those RSBs on the P5? Did they ever come out with a permanent fix? I know Mazda came out with multiple revisions but the clunking would always come back at some point.

I talked with Jason at OMP about this a few years back. Learned that the rear crossmembers between the MSP and P5 have slight variations with where the rsb brackets mount up (MP3 may be the same as MSP?). Due to this, it puts extra tension on the bushing when running the MSP rsb on the P5. The 'right way' to do it would be to swap out the crossmember if you are going to use the MSP rsb.

And if you are going to lower the car and use the stock rsb and stock end links you will want to use the MSP links vs. the P5 links (MSP are shorter). If you are going to use an aftermarket rsb then you will want to run OEM P5 links unless you go with aftermarket links (someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that last statement).
 
I was thinking if I'm going to switch out end links and new sway bar on the rear then I might change the end links in the front also and bushings. Is it fairly simple to install upfront? I heard its tough and there's no front sway bar either. Don't know what's true fill me in so I know what parts to buy.
 
I've had the racing beat rear bar on my 2001 protege ES for a while now... maybe like 10,000 miles:
I spent like no time putting it on when i first got it- i used the stock MSP bushings (that were probably like over 5 years old... lolz) and brackets and it went right on, i didn't notice any problems putting it on my ES rear subframe.
Then one day i wanted to see how fast i could go while i swerve around a dead animal on the highway without loosing control of the car (as well as how close i could get to it without hitting it- went like 50 mph or something ;) ) and my super old OEM bushings both snapped. I had some serious clunking after that...
...So i bought some red urethane bushings from AWR, and when i took the bar off to put those on somehow the job had transformed into a complete b****. The mounting points for the rear sway bar brackets on the rear subframe have one stud, and one bolt. I think the MSP has two studs sticking out of it...
When you take the bolt out, on the inside of the sub-frame there's a nut welded in there that the bolt screws into. One of mine snapped off inside the subframe, so i used a wrench with some tape on the end of it to get it out. I don't know how to prevent that from happening... maybe some wd40 or some similar compound... but just a heads up: it super sucks when one of those welded in nuts snaps off...
After that i managed to forget how the brackets went on. The sway bar brackets have a round hole on one end, and a slotted hole on the other. Someone here with an MSP or an MP3 will know... but i can't remember if the slotted end goes on the bottom or the side of the rear sub frame... that's something else to watch out for. I'm not sure how important it is to get the bracket orientation right, but i feel like it's gotta' count for something.
I used 20mm urethane bushings on the stock sedan subframe... which is the same as the one on your p5. When i tried to put the MSP sway bar brackets on the subframe, they sort of fit... but not quite. The sedan's OEM sway bar was smaller, and had a smaller bracket- so i had to bend/pinch the MSP brackets to fit on my car. THis didn't make me happy... and my bushings are unhappy as well. There's actually a bit of a gap between the "base"... or the flat part... what ever you'll call it of my bushings and the subframe, which freaks me out to no end. Sure, i didn't get any problems from it...BUT IT'S SO NOT CLEAN.
...Nothing on my car is clean though, i use it to drive around recyclables i find on the street that people didn't want to throw away. That's not clean... but the sway bar thing strikes me as a bit of a problem.
AWR makes a sort of adapter that is supposed to get around my problem- the adapter bolts up to the subframe, and the sway bar/brackets attach to the adapter. There's also the "Clunk fix" kit that relocates the sway bar mounting points to the outside of the subframe (right under where the subframe bolts to the car's frame) in an effort to put less stress on the bushings, giving them a longer life and it's supposed to make the bar function better.

You can do the sway bar at any time- you don't have to do it with the struts.
You don't really have to do the front end-links when you do the rears, unless the fronts need replaced. The front endlinks are an easy instal, but the front sway bar bushings are something else... You can replace them, there's a write up on here somewhere on how to do it, but i believe it requires a lot of trying to get a wrench and a hand in a very inconvenient place. When i'm under my car, i can't even see where the thing mounts to the front subframe...
Oh... and you've totally got a front sway bar

No clunking with the progress eh? Hmmm... interesting. The progress looks similar to the OEM bar on the p5/ES (with the sport suspension package) and the racing beat bar is a bit different of a design, maybe the racing beat design wears out the bushing faster...
...either way, i love my racing beat bar, clunks squeaks and all. I want the front one now...
And sorry i can't tell you what to buy -_- i forgot all the end link lengths...
 

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