Bilstein HD vs Bilstein Sport vs Koni FSD

JamesCH

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2009 Mazdaspeed3; 1991 Turbo Miata
Debating shock choices for my 2009 MS3 GT, otherwise on stock suspension but my shocks are starting to piss shock oil everywhere.

I've read good things about all of these shocks. I like the technology in the FSD, but I also like the durability of the bilstein shocks and the monotube design. I've also read that the Bilstein Sport fits the MS3 better than than HD.

Thoughts on ride quality, performance, and fitment?
 
I've had FSDs for probably 2 years/40k miles, and I've never regretted it. They're comfortable enough on the highway and around town, and when I find some twisties they hold up fine. I may eventually trade up to coilovers, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend FSDs. The only down side is that they work best at stock height. Some people have had success running aftermarket springs with a minimal drop (Cobb), but if you want more lows I'd suggest getting Bilstein Sports.
 
I'm definitely sticking with stock springs for a number of practicality reasons.

Just pulled the trigger some some FSDs with heavy-duty valving from ProtegeGarage. Good price and free shipping FTW.

Thanks guys.
 
Good deal. I forgot to mention that you should get the p/n 4045 rather than 4040, but it looks like you're good to go. Good price, too.
 
Installed the FSDs over the weekend. Love them. Install went mostly smoothly except that Koni decided to put a sticker on the bottom of one of the front struts (dumb).

First driving impressions: love them. Great match with the stock springs. Smoother and more controlled than stock, and way better than exploded OE struts ;)
 
Installed the FSDs over the weekend. Love them. Install went mostly smoothly except that Koni decided to put a sticker on the bottom of one of the front struts (dumb).

First driving impressions: love them. Great match with the stock springs. Smoother and more controlled than stock, and way better than exploded OE struts ;)

If you like a smooth ride you made the right choice. They will break-in with time and miles (about 3K). After 2-3K they will feel like sport shocks on smooth roads yet articulate well on choppy roads. Also you will find yourself carrying a much higher speed over choppy roads. I've had them on my car for about 7K now and they just get better. Love the FSDs.
 
If you like a smooth ride you made the right choice. They will break-in with time and miles (about 3K). After 2-3K they will feel like sport shocks on smooth roads yet articulate well on choppy roads. Also you will find yourself carrying a much higher speed over choppy roads. I've had them on my car for about 7K now and they just get better. Love the FSDs.

Awesome! That's good to know. After a few hundred miles I thought they were mellowing a little, but I wasn't sure.
 
How was the install? From what I can tell, I'll need a spring compressor tool for the fronts and some kind of strut separation tool, right? I was browsing the DIY forum last night and looking at some instructions listed there.
 
The install wasn't too bad. I used a piece of wood and a BFH to knock the struts out of the LCA in the front, and a jack to push everything back together. I gently tapped a screw driver in the slot on the inside of the collar the strut drops into on the hub. This helped immensely both removing and installing the struts.

There is a bracket on the inside of the strut that drops into a slot on the inside of the hub mount (the same one you want to tap a screw driver into, but there is room for both) that caused me more issues than anything else. That tab had better drop straight into the slot to make life easy, though you can tap the spring perch of the strut with a hammer to rotate it if need be.

The slot in the upright/hub is easily visible in this picture:
$T2eC16NHJGIE9nnWpU04BQyoDiRZPw~~60_1.JPG


The rear shocks were a cake walk IMO.
 
The install wasn't too bad. I used a piece of wood and a BFH to knock the struts out of the LCA in the front, and a jack to push everything back together. I gently tapped a screw driver in the slot on the inside of the collar the strut drops into on the hub. This helped immensely both removing and installing the struts.

There is a bracket on the inside of the strut that drops into a slot on the inside of the hub mount (the same one you want to tap a screw driver into, but there is room for both) that caused me more issues than anything else. That tab had better drop straight into the slot to make life easy, though you can tap the spring perch of the strut with a hammer to rotate it if need be.

The slot in the upright/hub is easily visible in this picture:
$T2eC16NHJGIE9nnWpU04BQyoDiRZPw~~60_1.JPG


The rear shocks were a cake walk IMO.

Good to know, thanks!
 
Diagnosed and fixed a rattle related to the install. Apparently I didn't have the lower shock bolts tight enough. The bolts were snug, and the shock didn't appear to move, but a final 'as tight as I could' with a 1/2in driver made the rattle go away. Not sure if this is an easy mistake to make or if I was being dumb. Either way I thought I'd mention it.
 
Did my install tonight, it was a pain as expected. When it was all said and done, took about 3.5 hours with a buddy helping me. got it all put back together and went on a drive, sure enough there was a clunk from the front pass side (the side I worked on) and gave that bottom bolt a few extra tugs.

60454_10151296164616109_56015504_n.jpg


74431_10151315024991109_1569716383_n.jpg


Rides really nice and smooth without being floaty. I'm sure I'll grow to enjoy these alot! Thanks JamesCH for all your help!
 
Awesome man! Good stuff!

Glad my mistake and fix helped you out a little. Thank god for them internets.
 
Long-term update:

I had screwed up re-installing the strut top-hats. One was not indexed properly. There is a small tab on the strut mount that must be pointed inboard. This caused some spring binding during turning, so I took everything apart, fixed the alignment, and re-greased the bearing. A week or two later the passenger side started doing the same thing, so I took it apart to clean and re-grease the steering bearing too (it had been indexed properly). I would suggest that anyone doing this sort of install should clean and re-grease their strut top bearings.

After driving on them for ~5k miles the FSDs have broken in quite nicely and I am still very pleased with their performance.
 
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