Very interested in this too, both for the projector headlights and for the DRL/Highs on the non tech. I had started a thread here asking for beam pattern pictures but never got any reply. Mostly (credible) speculation that the beam pattern would be realy bad. So if ever anyone tries this, please post pics... It's all about beam pattern, light output onlt tells part of the story.
The CX-5 LED Lighting Thread
- Thread starter SayNoToPistons
- Start date
Very interested in this too, both for the projector headlights and for the DRL/Highs on the non tech. I had started a thread here asking for beam pattern pictures but never got any reply. Mostly (credible) speculation that the beam pattern would be realy bad. So if ever anyone tries this, please post pics... It's all about beam pattern, light output onlt tells part of the story.
IronMan0737
Member
- :
- 14.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech
Yeah, guess nobody's tried it in these projector housings yet. The general concensus is they work well in reflector housings. Worst case, you could resell it on eBay for the same price as what you paid. North American buyers would scarf it up for the faster shipping time.
Once LEDs lock in at 3000+ lumens, I couldn't see why drivers and even automakers wouldn't want to go this route.
Here in the US, the Feds just passed a law to make backup cameras on new vehicles mandatory by 2018. Getting rid of halogen and HID couldn't be that far behind!
I opted to not go with the CXAs for fog lights just yet. If I'm not happy with the COB panels, I'll consider CXA. I'm awaiting a response from VLEDs about the orientation of the CXA diodes once installed in the housing. If it's side-to-side, that would eliminate the need to bend or remove the anti-glare bulb cap.
Once LEDs lock in at 3000+ lumens, I couldn't see why drivers and even automakers wouldn't want to go this route.
Here in the US, the Feds just passed a law to make backup cameras on new vehicles mandatory by 2018. Getting rid of halogen and HID couldn't be that far behind!
I opted to not go with the CXAs for fog lights just yet. If I'm not happy with the COB panels, I'll consider CXA. I'm awaiting a response from VLEDs about the orientation of the CXA diodes once installed in the housing. If it's side-to-side, that would eliminate the need to bend or remove the anti-glare bulb cap.
runtohell121
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
The big issue with LEDs currently is heat distribution. A manufacture can design LED headlight but would cost more to make at this moment and it is still not sure how long can it last and it is probably not user replaceable, meaning one would have to replace the whole headlight assembly just to replace a burnt LED headlight. Halogen and HID is user swappable and is bright enough.
If one replaces their existing halogen or HID with LEDs that are currently available, the problem would be beam pattern as most if not all housings are not designed for that sort of light which would result in either less light output or crappy beam patterns along with blinding oncoming drivers.
If one replaces their existing halogen or HID with LEDs that are currently available, the problem would be beam pattern as most if not all housings are not designed for that sort of light which would result in either less light output or crappy beam patterns along with blinding oncoming drivers.
IronMan0737
Member
- :
- 14.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech
Yeah, that's pretty much what I just said. Hopefully the carmaker would make the LED/controllers replaceable, and also lifetime-warrant the light components - this could easily be written into law as part of the energy saving measures that have gone into effect. I reckon incandescents haven't yet been banned from vehicles because there hasn't been enough outdoor/road testing. The selling points are that LEDs have lifetime ratings that are ten times those of gas filled bulbs. You'd be more likely to lose a ballast/controller before the bulb dies on you.
Some of the early buyers / guinea pigs of these new sets also aren't weatherproofing their connections. Heat shrink tubing prevents corrosion and loose connections. Headlight Connection has a good video about these 2000+ lumen LED kits on YouTube.
Some of the early buyers / guinea pigs of these new sets also aren't weatherproofing their connections. Heat shrink tubing prevents corrosion and loose connections. Headlight Connection has a good video about these 2000+ lumen LED kits on YouTube.
Hi, new here. just wondering if anybody has bothered to change the parking lights? i just had my cx-5 gt (gt in aus has 'tech package') delivered and the yellowness annoys me slightly because it's activated at the same time as my bi-xenon headlights. i think it looks silly with yellow lights on at the same time as the white bi-xenon, even though you don't really notice the parking lights
i'll also be changing the drl's to a whiter light as soon as i can find a suitable bulb. i can't go for a blue light here so 5000k is probably my limit
i'll also be changing the drl's to a whiter light as soon as i can find a suitable bulb. i can't go for a blue light here so 5000k is probably my limit
IronMan0737
Member
- :
- 14.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech
For parking lights, you need Type 2 "white/amber" switchback turn signals with a set of 50W 6-ohm resistors. 5000K aren't the easiest to find. You might have to try a few "6000K" sets and see if it's white enough for you.
Here are the current bulb selections out there:
COB (circuit on board panel LED arrays)
SMD (surface mount diode - generic / Samsung)
CREE (higher quality diodes with lenses and magnifiers)
High power front-facing only with magnifier
High power with 360 degree lens (my personal recommendation)
Between eBay, Amazon, and AliExpress you shouldn't have any trouble picking up a kit with resistors and wire taps for $45USD. The bulbs are all size 1157 and a direct drop-in. The resistors are to dupe your car from thinking a bulb's out (hyperflash). Tap the resistor wire ends in between negative wire and the middle wire positive wire.
Also, note that 1157 bulbs have polarity, so if the bulb doesn't light at first, you'll need to remove from socket, turn it 180 degrees and try it again. Check for the basic function of the bulb first, before tapping any wires. The resistors do not have polarity, so there's no correct order or direction to tap. Just do any work with ignition off.
Last edited:
runtohell121
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
I would recommend getting VLEDS V3 Triton for the turn signal and possibly their DRLs as well.
CX-5tormtrooper
Member
- :
- CX-Triton
I don't think Triton's come in P13W format for DRL's, their much cheaper P13W led's are plenty bright enough.
runtohell121
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
I know V3 Triton is applicable for DRL's. I said get it for the turn/parking signal...Was referring to get VLEDS DRL as well, the P13W format which I know they have.
IronMan0737
Member
- :
- 14.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech
I don't mean to put down VLEDs, but after some simple research, they really aren't that great. Aside from the V3 platform which no one else seems to have, they simply order stuff from Chinese wholesalers and sell it at 50-100% markup. And is there anything the V3 can do that a simple 1157 LED switchback and a resistor can't do?? They do offer different color temps, but that's because each type of diode can be manufactured in X amount of colors - and they're smart enough to order X of each type. Their selection isn't great, and because of limited to zero availability it would be quicker ordering the stuff yourself from China (most of which has free shipping).
Beyond that, I emailed a simple question to them LAST WEEK about the orientation of the double sided CXA headlights, and no one bothered to answer. So yeah, I don't care for them.
The best North American producer of LED headlights besides VLED is MTEC Lighting, but their stuff is mainly geared towards BMWs.
IJDMTOY carries a large selection, but most products are of cheapest quality they can find and can cost as much as things twice the quality and brightness you can get directly from overseas.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, back to the LED headlight/foglight debate & dilemma.
In the last few days, I've learned some additional information.
1. No diode technology compares to CREE. Not in brightness or bang for your buck. The Chinese pay top dollar for reels of CREE diodes made right here in the US.
2. The best and brightest diode types from CREE used in new Chinese headlight projects are (currently) the following:
- CXA 1520 and higher. Any number less than 1520 is considered obsolete at this point (this includes the common 1512)
(CXA 2540 and 3050 are much brighter than 1520s, but have not yet been used in headlight technology. A Single 3050 diode can crank out nearly 5000 lumens!)
- XB-D. Small diodes with magnifying lenses. Tons of bang for your buck. You'll find these on VLEDs' P13W DRLs.
- XML-T6 and XML-2. Somewhat small diodes with magnifying lenses. Can make up to 1200 lumens per diode.
- MT-G2. Larger diodes than XML, similar to CXAs, with magnifying lenses. Bulb size H4s are currently being made up to 3800 lumens per bulb (using two diodes per bulb).
- COB panel diodes. Look for panels with 30+ light emitters. More diluted panels would be considered obsolete.
3. If you're light shopping and don't see the above diodes advertised (or no diode type advertised at all), you should probably be paying less or looking elsewhere.
If you dig a little, you may find MTEC has done lumen metering tests to brag about their own products (top is currently a 3100 lumen headlight that does not use fans). This is all well and good, but also proves that Chinese have not lied, because the tests proved accurate within 100 lumens of what is claimed for each product. The stuff on eBay and AliExpress will perform as advertised, provided you install and run it correctly.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So what else should you look for when considering LED headlights/foglights?
1. For as little as $50-60, you can find LED headlight sets that operate on as little as 18W per bulb and can put out up to 2000LM/bulb, using only a heat sink and a small driver box.
2. One-wire / bundled connections between bulb and driver / harness is desirable. Two or three sets of plugs and wires, and you have not only a mess but a recipe for failure.
3. Heatsink technology is quickly improving. This means the potential elimination of fans moving forward.
4. I get the concept of fans, but why do we really need them? Headlight dust covers, perhaps? Many have these behind them, so fans introduce air in an otherwise congested environment. And this finally leads to
5. Do you need fans for fog lights? I'm gonna say no. There should be plenty of cool air down there near the road at night, and the area is far enough away from the engine bay. This is why I chose a heatsink-only setup.
6. IF you buy a set that offers high/low beam settings, our 55W H11s will have your set running on the highest/brightest at all times.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is all I have for now. If I get bored I'll add pics and links in between bullet points.
Beyond that, I emailed a simple question to them LAST WEEK about the orientation of the double sided CXA headlights, and no one bothered to answer. So yeah, I don't care for them.
The best North American producer of LED headlights besides VLED is MTEC Lighting, but their stuff is mainly geared towards BMWs.
IJDMTOY carries a large selection, but most products are of cheapest quality they can find and can cost as much as things twice the quality and brightness you can get directly from overseas.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, back to the LED headlight/foglight debate & dilemma.
In the last few days, I've learned some additional information.
1. No diode technology compares to CREE. Not in brightness or bang for your buck. The Chinese pay top dollar for reels of CREE diodes made right here in the US.
2. The best and brightest diode types from CREE used in new Chinese headlight projects are (currently) the following:
- CXA 1520 and higher. Any number less than 1520 is considered obsolete at this point (this includes the common 1512)
(CXA 2540 and 3050 are much brighter than 1520s, but have not yet been used in headlight technology. A Single 3050 diode can crank out nearly 5000 lumens!)
- XB-D. Small diodes with magnifying lenses. Tons of bang for your buck. You'll find these on VLEDs' P13W DRLs.
- XML-T6 and XML-2. Somewhat small diodes with magnifying lenses. Can make up to 1200 lumens per diode.
- MT-G2. Larger diodes than XML, similar to CXAs, with magnifying lenses. Bulb size H4s are currently being made up to 3800 lumens per bulb (using two diodes per bulb).
- COB panel diodes. Look for panels with 30+ light emitters. More diluted panels would be considered obsolete.
3. If you're light shopping and don't see the above diodes advertised (or no diode type advertised at all), you should probably be paying less or looking elsewhere.
If you dig a little, you may find MTEC has done lumen metering tests to brag about their own products (top is currently a 3100 lumen headlight that does not use fans). This is all well and good, but also proves that Chinese have not lied, because the tests proved accurate within 100 lumens of what is claimed for each product. The stuff on eBay and AliExpress will perform as advertised, provided you install and run it correctly.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So what else should you look for when considering LED headlights/foglights?
1. For as little as $50-60, you can find LED headlight sets that operate on as little as 18W per bulb and can put out up to 2000LM/bulb, using only a heat sink and a small driver box.
2. One-wire / bundled connections between bulb and driver / harness is desirable. Two or three sets of plugs and wires, and you have not only a mess but a recipe for failure.
3. Heatsink technology is quickly improving. This means the potential elimination of fans moving forward.
4. I get the concept of fans, but why do we really need them? Headlight dust covers, perhaps? Many have these behind them, so fans introduce air in an otherwise congested environment. And this finally leads to
5. Do you need fans for fog lights? I'm gonna say no. There should be plenty of cool air down there near the road at night, and the area is far enough away from the engine bay. This is why I chose a heatsink-only setup.
6. IF you buy a set that offers high/low beam settings, our 55W H11s will have your set running on the highest/brightest at all times.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is all I have for now. If I get bored I'll add pics and links in between bullet points.
Last edited:
IronMan0737
Member
- :
- 14.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech
So I got these to work in the FOG housings! (H11 COB 20Wx2 set with small heat sinks and drivers - 6000K color). The set came as shown:
The portruding portions of the bulbs are the SAME length and diameter as a stock H11 glass halogen bulb, so it did NOT hit the anti-glare cone! NO modification of the fog housing was needed! Also, the collar with the locking tabs can be adjusted 360 degrees so you can get the panels facing the way you want. I did side-to-side.
BUT there was a dilemma. Since these are also H8 compatible, one of the tabs is too large for H11 (H8 has three different sized tabs, while H11 has one large and two smalls). The middle sized tab was 1-2mm wide and needed to be ground down. Tabs themselves on these bulbs are thick (see photo of product above) so the tin-snip trick would not have worked.
My procedure:
1. Unscrewed the heat sink from the LED. This leaves the tab collar able to be separated from the other parts while on the wire.
2. I used my dremel with a small grinding wheel to file, while holding the collar with a pair of medium vice grips.
3. I used the vice grips to gauge the modified tab to the small unmodified tab.
Hooking them up, I also noticed the plug coming from the light to the ballast (the YELLOW one, see product above) DOES have polarity, so if it doesn't work at first, it will need to be switched!
Old and new:
Both new:
At night (-1.0 exposure)
As you can see, they're definitely way brighter!
Before I closed up, I used two small cable ties to fasten the ballast wires to the:
- Driver's side: frame (you'll see a hole or two near the engine bay)
- Passenger's side (bottom hole on the washer fluid reservoir)
This let the ballast hang securely in a loop fashion (reservoir side):
The portruding portions of the bulbs are the SAME length and diameter as a stock H11 glass halogen bulb, so it did NOT hit the anti-glare cone! NO modification of the fog housing was needed! Also, the collar with the locking tabs can be adjusted 360 degrees so you can get the panels facing the way you want. I did side-to-side.
BUT there was a dilemma. Since these are also H8 compatible, one of the tabs is too large for H11 (H8 has three different sized tabs, while H11 has one large and two smalls). The middle sized tab was 1-2mm wide and needed to be ground down. Tabs themselves on these bulbs are thick (see photo of product above) so the tin-snip trick would not have worked.
My procedure:
1. Unscrewed the heat sink from the LED. This leaves the tab collar able to be separated from the other parts while on the wire.
2. I used my dremel with a small grinding wheel to file, while holding the collar with a pair of medium vice grips.
3. I used the vice grips to gauge the modified tab to the small unmodified tab.
Hooking them up, I also noticed the plug coming from the light to the ballast (the YELLOW one, see product above) DOES have polarity, so if it doesn't work at first, it will need to be switched!
Old and new:
Both new:
At night (-1.0 exposure)
As you can see, they're definitely way brighter!
Before I closed up, I used two small cable ties to fasten the ballast wires to the:
- Driver's side: frame (you'll see a hole or two near the engine bay)
- Passenger's side (bottom hole on the washer fluid reservoir)
This let the ballast hang securely in a loop fashion (reservoir side):
Last edited:
IronMan0737
Member
- :
- 14.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech
Okay, here's one for you non-techies to try! MTEC Lighting's current top of the line product is 3100 lumens per bulb with photographed tests. They're smaller and less jumbled than VLEDs' current MT-G2 offering and are $30 less with free shipping at $169 OBO.
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
http://www.mteclightingusa.com/MTEC_H8_H9_H11_LED_Fog_Dring_Light_Bulbs_p/mt-616-h11.htm
They don't mention the exact chip used but it's definitely a CREE and looks larger than the CXA 1512. I also speculate their locking tab collar is "universal" for H8 like mine was, so you'll likely need to file the middle sized tab to match the small for an H11 housing.
And here's what the set looks like:
Happy guinea piggin'
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
http://www.mteclightingusa.com/MTEC_H8_H9_H11_LED_Fog_Dring_Light_Bulbs_p/mt-616-h11.htm
They don't mention the exact chip used but it's definitely a CREE and looks larger than the CXA 1512. I also speculate their locking tab collar is "universal" for H8 like mine was, so you'll likely need to file the middle sized tab to match the small for an H11 housing.
And here's what the set looks like:
Happy guinea piggin'
LEDHEADLIGHTS
Member
- :
- Mazda CX-5
If you are looking to upgrade your headlight lighting to LEDs, be sure to check out the new Hellst LED headlight bulbs. Here is a link to a Mazdas247 thread that provides more information:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ulbs-The-Future-Of-Headlight-Lighting-Is-Here!
Hellst has solved the beam distribution/distance issues that other LED manufacturers continue to face with no glare to other drivers. Note the clean cut line of the CREE LEDs as projected on the garage door.
Our website provides more information on these new, revolutionary LED headlight bulbs that will be of interest to you.
www.ledheadlightbulbs.us
Cheers,
Ross
LEDHEADLIGHTBULBS.US
A division of BimmerEyes Inc.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ulbs-The-Future-Of-Headlight-Lighting-Is-Here!
Hellst has solved the beam distribution/distance issues that other LED manufacturers continue to face with no glare to other drivers. Note the clean cut line of the CREE LEDs as projected on the garage door.
Our website provides more information on these new, revolutionary LED headlight bulbs that will be of interest to you.
www.ledheadlightbulbs.us
Cheers,
Ross
LEDHEADLIGHTBULBS.US
A division of BimmerEyes Inc.
runtohell121
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
V-LEDS is having a sale, 20% off. However, it isn't that great as they raised their prices though I doubt the prices will drop back to before...
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
Two words, virtual filament. An 1157 tower type switch back will use a lot more diodes per bulb and still not perform on the same level for optics in the reflector. I've seen those tower bulbs go up to 94 LEDs on a single bulb and they still aren't in the same league. The Tritons use 6 Philips Rebel diodes for their switchback, 3 for white, 3 for amber. I haven't seen any other switchback utilize anything other than cheap chinese diodes. Their single color Tritons only use 3 diodes and will easily outperform any tower bulb. It's all in the optics. If you can't utilize the reflector properly like the incandescent, it's going to be poor.
Here's an example of utilizing proper optics. Here is a video of an Elef-IV LED bulb. It uses a single(yes only 1) Osram Dragon diode with a cone reflector optic on top of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXKuzE_6v5k
IronMan0737
Member
- :
- 14.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/ Tech
Still not worth the price. They're turn signals for crying out loud. Who can't see a turn signal unless the bulb's out? And how could "optics" of any 1157 augment a neighboring HID in any discernible way?
My magnified CREE bulbs work great in filling the outer headlamp outline, especially for $35. I use the parks with the DRL at dawn and dusk and with the headlights on they serve as an amber-delete while driving. That's it.
And you don't own a CX-5, so you can't really appreciate it.
My magnified CREE bulbs work great in filling the outer headlamp outline, especially for $35. I use the parks with the DRL at dawn and dusk and with the headlights on they serve as an amber-delete while driving. That's it.
And you don't own a CX-5, so you can't really appreciate it.
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
Owning a CX-5 has nothing to do with it. I've been dealing with LEDs and HIDs for years. Optics have everything to do with it. If you don't use proper optics to actually utilize the reflector design, then it's a very inefficient design and in the case of brakelights and turn signals can be very dangerous. I've seen literally hundreds of PnP LEDs completely wash out in the daylight, in direct sunlight, where you can't tell it's on. That is dangerous. Plus, I'd say a fair estimate is about 8 out of every 10 "Cree" style LED bulbs are just Chinese knockoffs and not real Cree diodes.
- :
- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
Completely agree with Suddueth13 here. Even apart from the optics, those tower LEDs don't put out nearly the amount of light that a regular incandescent does. A rough rule of thumb (very rough) is that a good LED is about 4 times as efficient as a filament bulb. Thus, to equate to a 12W signal bulb, you'd need about 3 watts of GOOD LED(s). Those tower bulbs don't use nearly that wattage/amount of LEDs (despite often falsely claiming much higher outputs than they actually have). If they did, they'd need substantial metal heatsinks, which you'll note, those tower bulbs do not have.
There's a reason the good LEDs are expensive.
There's a reason the good LEDs are expensive.
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