Installed the same cheap eBay kit as you last week. Highly impressed so far. Great little addition...All interior lights in 2017 CX-5 are the same as 1st-gen's as Mazda didn't make any changes for those. So basically you need five 30/31mm Festoon LEDs for map/dome/cargo lights、two 29mm 2,800K "warm white" Festoon T6 fuse type LEDs for vanity mirror、and two 194/168 type LEDs for license plate. You can always pay more for name brand LEDs but they normally don't use the latest LED chips. I have cheap eBay LED kit installed for 17 months and so far so good. Not all eBay LED kits are the same. You've to check the specs and reputation!
All interior lights in 2017 CX-5 are the same as 1st-gen's as Mazda didn't make any changes for those. So basically you need five 30/31mm Festoon LEDs for map/dome/cargo lights、two 29mm 2,800K "warm white" Festoon T6 fuse type LEDs for vanity mirror、and two 194/168 type LEDs for license plate. You can always pay more for name brand LEDs but they normally don't use the latest LED chips. I have cheap eBay LED kit installed for 17 months and so far so good. Not all eBay LED kits are the same. You've to check the specs and reputation!
Yep Mazda at least did an easy LED upgrade on backup lights for new CX-5. I wish they had done LED upgrade on more complicated turn signals!Anyone wonder about the 'tiny' backup lights on the 2017s? Fear not, they are LED and very bright.
2017 CX5 Touring - need help with getting access to the license plate lights. I checked the manual and it says just wedge under the lens and firmly lift them off. Now, perhaps it's just me, but I'm scared as hell I'm going to break these lenses off or snap the arms off them. Has anyone done this for the 2017 version yet and can you verify that you simply wedged something under it (what did you use) and popped it off. The 2016 and prior look a little different from the current one and I'm just not sure about snapping it off without breaking it. Looking for suggestions.
2017 CX5 Touring - need help with getting access to the license plate lights. I checked the manual and it says just wedge under the lens and firmly lift them off. Now, perhaps it's just me, but I'm scared as hell I'm going to break these lenses off or snap the arms off them. Has anyone done this for the 2017 version yet and can you verify that you simply wedged something under it (what did you use) and popped it off. The 2016 and prior look a little different from the current one and I'm just not sure about snapping it off without breaking it. Looking for suggestions.
Love the new 5730 t10 leds. Mind you look how much lights hitting the ground. $10 better than the $20 phillips I installed on my 3
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Sorry but I deleted my earlier post since neither my attachments nor linked album photos appeared in the post.
Once again, I replaced the stock interior festoon bulbs (left) with VLEDs 31mm 5K Long Life #3175 LEDs (right) which are being discontinued and offered at 50% off the list price. You need 5 bulbs - a pair for the front seats, a pair for the rear seats and a bulb for the rear cargo compartment. The factory festoons are 29mm but 31mm festoons fit just fine and you get more choices.
I use a small piece of 1/16" soft balsa to protect the surrounding plastic. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver, insert the blade between the front edge of the clear lens and the plastic housing. There is a left and right clip on the front edge so pry one side then the other.
I originally had the high power 6K LEDs in my 2015 but with a black interior, the effect was a little too cold. The 5K bulbs match up with the DRLs, etc.
Daft question - do you disconnect the battery before installing or is that overkill?
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Seems like overkill on the Gen2 CX-5. On the Gen1, the rear cargo light is on the driver side, the whole fixture popped out and supposedly there was a risk of shorting it out. I never disconnected my battery when I did the retrofits on my Gen1.
Gen2 has the rear light in the hatch door. When popping off the lens, only the lens comes off - just as they do in the overheads.
Only real risk is damaging the surrounding plastic. Study which side to pry and you should be OK. If you can find one of those plastic prybars such as VLEDS sells, so much the better. Just like halogen headlight bulbs, best to avoid touching the glass bulb with your bare fingers.
But there's nothing made that would do that. That I've seen. And I've seen a were up where a guy installs a radar detector like this with the same product.looks like the cavity was too deep for the prongs on the adapter, because of the box on side with the plug harness in it, you'd need one thats the same width as a standard minifuse and with a wire that comes off in a different direction (from the long sides or straight out)
then you'll have to pick a different spot to tap off of that will let you fit the adapter in there, or be sol?But there's nothing made that would do that. That I've seen. And I've seen a were up where a guy installs a radar detector like this with the same product.
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