Anyone using a Curt hitch?

S

Silentnoise713

:
2008 Mazda5 GT
For those who have the Curt hitch installed, can you share some pics on mounting position? Not referring to how the hitch looks from the back. I want to get an idea of how it is positioned around the muffler and bumper, and exactly where it mounts to the chassis. E-trailer has install pics for the hidden hitch/draw tite but curious how the Curt mounts. It seems to have more robust mouting points.

Thanks.


EDIT: Curt hitch install manual View attachment CM_113380_INS.pdf
 
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Interesting... I have the hidden hitch, and went to have a look at the Curt hitch on etrailer. Noticed it does have one more attachment point and thought, huh, it must be more robust. Until I read a question posted to etrailer asking the exact same thing... I've pasted the very interesting answer below as well as provided a link... glad I bought the hidden hitch!

"The Curt has 4 mounting points and does not mount to tow hook and the Hidden Hitch/Draw-Ttite has 3 mounts to tow hook.What are the advatages and disadavantages of the Curt vs. the other two? Is this one more secure? Is this one harder to install? Does the Curt one require drilling new holes or are all 4 holes just require enlarging? Would like to make my decision soon. Thanks
asked by: S

Expert Reply:
First, all of the hitches for the 2010 Mazda 5 will require enlarging access holes for installation. We have the estimated time and difficulty higher for the Curt trailer hitch because it does require 1 additional connection point on the vehicle. However, the time difference is only about 10 minutes.

Many different vehicles use the factory tow hook as a connection point for installing a trailer hitch. It is a sturdy place to use if available. I would not say that any one of the hitches for your vehicle are better than the others.

If I had to choose and I was planning on doing some towing, I would go with the Hidden Hitch # 60841. If I wanted to use accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, I would go with Draw-Tite hitch # 24773. The reason is that neither of these hitches require the use of a stabilization strap for accessories and the Curt hitch does.

The Hidden Hitch model comes with the correct ball mount, pin, and clip. For a 1-7/8 inch ball use # 19256 and for a 2 inch ball use # 19258. For trailer wiring, use # 118520. I have included a link to the instructions for the wiring and for the Draw-Tite and Hidden Hitch trailer hitches (they share the same instructions)."

http://www.etrailer.com/question-41499.html
 
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The Curt has two bolts going up into the bumper support beam AND two bolts going horizontally into unibody frame rail. It’s the horizontal mounting AND that they go into the frame rail that caught my attention, more so than simply having the 4th mounts though I do believe more mounts = more secure/solid base -duh. I’ve been looking at a lot of Class II/III hitches and they all mount onto the frame rail.

The HH/DT’s use 2 bolts only go up into the bumper support beam + 1 U-bolt secured to the tow hook, which is off center. None of the Class II/III hitches uses a U-bolt to secure (clamp) onto the tow hook, which I understand to be a strong point. The HH/DT is essentially a horizontal bar secured up and onto the underside of the bumper support beam and the U-bolt for safety measure. Oh, guess where the bumper support beam is welded too? ;)

Regarding stabilizer straps, it seems eTrailer is only repeating what is noted on Curt’s install manual that this is recommended for warranty, apparently for all of their Class I/II hitches. All of the eTrailer expert responses comment that it is needed for warranty without further explaining “why the Curt needs it” but not the others. They explain what the purpose of the strap is used for but that’s just a general description of a stabilizer strap. Quite a few internet Curt Class I/II users comment that they don’t use the strap and are fine. I’m all for following what’s recommended but it has to make sense to me. A hitch is a simple device and is only as good as how it’s made and how you use it. If I ask myself which has a better load distribution, I’m going to say the Curt over the HH/DT. What would cause the need for the stabilizer strap? Could it be a fundamentally flawed design issue? Could it be that their hitch receiver opening is over/under sized? I can’t find anywhere that these are issues; it seems more like Curt wants to cover themselves. In fact, I am tempted to guess that the Curt can actually carry more load but in the interest of NOT getting litigious over Mazda’s claims of no towing, they can’t position it that way and say use a strap. If I add a load of weight, I would consider using a strap but just to say use it no matter what or that the others do not specify the need for therefore is better is not good enough for me.

I’m still consider myself a hitch novice. Am I way off base?


Hopefully someone with a Curt hitch can chime in, especially on the need for stabilizer straps. If this is truly needed for 'every' accessory, then it is definitely a turn off (and wouldn’t make sense -to me).
 
Want to do something right, do it yourself :D

Curt Technical Support:
TOLL FREE: 800.798.0813


Spoke to a tech and point blank asked him why Curt states the need for a “stabilizer strap” while their competitor do not! Ready for the truth?...














Because people are stupid (OK, I add that).

He said the purpose of the strap is to keep the accessory from bouncing around. I then asked, isn’t that the purpose of the anti-rattle hitch pins? His response: the intent of the stabilizer straps mentioned is used to serve the same purpose! He said you can use the anti-rattle hitch pin instead of the strap, that is perfectly fine and acceptable. They put that declaimer b/c people have put clams in using just a hitch and rack, causing damage –the disclaimer was put to cover themselves. It is just a GENEARL concern that any accessory on a hitch may move and cause damage so use a strap. It's not a particular issue with Curt's hitch design. I told them to reconsider the wording to include the anti-rattle hitch pins b/c as it currently stands it is misleading. You are a fool if you use any accessory without a stability device, in this case the anti-rattle pin is preferred. So, there you go. Get your truth from the source.


On another note, I chatted with the guy about the possibility of mounting a CX5 Class III hitch on (same chassis, or close to it). He put the two together and confirmed they are NOT interchangeable. The width is off by about 4” so there’s no way it can physically mount on to the frame rails. He has access to spec sheets with measurements but can't disclose detail info to me :(
 
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These are very simple hitch designs. I wonder if there are any local welding shops that would be willing to tackle something like this with a 2-1/2" receiver...?
 
Silentnoise713 said:
Want to do something right, do it yourself :D (
Click to expand...

Yep, all makes sense to me! Thought it was an interesting comment... but after your extra digging, I would think the Curt design might be a bit more sturdy... how much more sturdy than the others, I'm not sure. All the hitchs and their attachment designs are probably over-engineered to handle more than their stated loads. Also I own the hidden hitch so my opinion is chock full of bias ;-).

I've purchased hidden hitches for previous vehicles which is basically why I went with that brand, though for what it's worth, if I was buying again, though I've had no problems with mine, I might go with the Curt design. But, then again, the Curt hitch is $22.31 more expensive and four pounds heavier... for the same rated load & towing capacities... end of the day, either way, I'd still be hesitant at hanging four bikes off of any of these hitches, unless two of them are little kid bikes.
 
I can chime in on having a Curt hitch. I've always admired the construction and look of the Curt hitches. Compared to Hidden Hitch, the smooth roundedness and lack of hollow ends looks superior. However, since my 5 is a 2012 year model, my input may not be too helpful. It took me 2 days to install the hitch--hey, I got kids! After unsuccessfully putting my car on ramps, I just slid under and suffered for hours. Hours. But now I can say that I'm not afraid of doing any accessory work on my 5! The Curt hitch for mine has 4 bolts on the chassis. Yes, I had to enlarge the holes which took forever with a rotary tool. Dealing with removing and trimming the blasted heat shield was the worst part of the job. Fishing the bolts through the chassis was creative and challenging. Overall, I'm pleased with the installation. This damn hitch will not move now! One note though for the Curt and the 2012 Mazda5: I didn't know beforehand that the hitch would be 6 inches back from the bumper. So I'm looking for a bike rack that has enough clearance from pin to bumper. Will probably settle on a 4-bike Yakima rack. Thus, in retrospect I would consider the Drawtite or Hidden Hitch models if the hitch ended up about flush with the bumper.

I'm not familiar with the Curt recommended stabilizer strap. Personally, I wouldn't use it after seeing it on amazon.com. Defeats the whole purpose of opting for a hitch over a strappy bike hanging mount. If you do a youtube search on bike racks and testing, you'll find many examples of failed bike racks. One nylon strap will not prevent accidents. The point: not every manufacturer of racks will withstand a traumatic accident. You just have to weigh the safety/convenience factor with what you're comfortable with.

I can supply pictures later on if you'd like. I just don't know how applicable it would be to a non-2012 model. I hope this helps.


Silentnoise713 said:
The Curt has two bolts going up into the bumper support beam AND two bolts going horizontally into unibody frame rail. It’s the horizontal mounting AND that they go into the frame rail that caught my attention, more so than simply having the 4th mounts though I do believe more mounts = more secure/solid base -duh. I’ve been looking at a lot of Class II/III hitches and they all mount onto the frame rail.

The HH/DT’s use 2 bolts only go up into the bumper support beam + 1 U-bolt secured to the tow hook, which is off center. None of the Class II/III hitches uses a U-bolt to secure (clamp) onto the tow hook, which I understand to be a strong point. The HH/DT is essentially a horizontal bar secured up and onto the underside of the bumper support beam and the U-bolt for safety measure. Oh, guess where the bumper support beam is welded too? ;)

Regarding stabilizer straps, it seems eTrailer is only repeating what is noted on Curt’s install manual that this is recommended for warranty, apparently for all of their Class I/II hitches. All of the eTrailer expert responses comment that it is needed for warranty without further explaining “why the Curt needs it” but not the others. They explain what the purpose of the strap is used for but that’s just a general description of a stabilizer strap. Quite a few internet Curt Class I/II users comment that they don’t use the strap and are fine. I’m all for following what’s recommended but it has to make sense to me. A hitch is a simple device and is only as good as how it’s made and how you use it. If I ask myself which has a better load distribution, I’m going to say the Curt over the HH/DT. What would cause the need for the stabilizer strap? Could it be a fundamentally flawed design issue? Could it be that their hitch receiver opening is over/under sized? I can’t find anywhere that these are issues; it seems more like Curt wants to cover themselves. In fact, I am tempted to guess that the Curt can actually carry more load but in the interest of NOT getting litigious over Mazda’s claims of no towing, they can’t position it that way and say use a strap. If I add a load of weight, I would consider using a strap but just to say use it no matter what or that the others do not specify the need for therefore is better is not good enough for me.

I’m still consider myself a hitch novice. Am I way off base?


Hopefully someone with a Curt hitch can chime in, especially on the need for stabilizer straps. If this is truly needed for 'every' accessory, then it is definitely a turn off (and wouldn’t make sense -to me).
Click to expand...
 
***JUST REALIZED THAT THE HITCHES ARE DIFFERENT FOR THE 2012 MODEL YEAR SO MY COMMENTS BELOW DO NOT APPLY TO THE 2006-2010 MODELS***

Let me start off by saying I am no hitch expert, but there does seem to be a few point people are missing. I installed a Drawtite on my 2012 M5. From what I gather, the Hidden Hitch and and Drawtite are the same hitch (but I could be wrong). My hitch actually came with a Hidden Hitch rubber cap! Both companies are owned by Cequent towing products and from what I've seen they are identical minus the name plate.

Knowing that I intended to use the hitch solely for a bike rack, I too wanted the strongest and most secure hitch and the Curt certainly caught my eye as being heavier and more beefy. Here were my reasons for NOT purchasing the Curt:

-Install is more involved and requires cutting out a large chunk of the exhaust heat shield. Mazda put it there for a reason and I was not comfortable removing a significant portion of it.

-The Hidden Hitch/Drawtite aesthetically looks better - all you see is the hitch opening....it looks much cleaner. (there are pictures on the forums somewhere of both hitches installed I believe).

-The design of the Curt hitch puts the horizontal bar much lower than the mounting brackets its attached to. My concerns were that excessive torque from a bike rack could cause undue stress on the horizontal bar, especially where it meets the mounting brackets. Generally speaking, the closer a load can be kept to the mounting points, the better. The Hidden Hitch/Drawtite has a smaller footprint and its mounting points are closer together and ultimately closer to the hitch opening. Mounting a hitch to the M5 tow hook definitely made me leery at first until I thought about it more. The tow hook is designed to tow the weight of the vehicle, so strength shouldn't be an issue, but I will admit it looks odd! In addition, the tow hook mounting point is very close to the hitch opening, so in theory it should created a lot less stress on the hitch as a whole. Think of holding a 50lbs weight - its easier to hold the weight in tight close to your chest than with your arms stretched out....the same applies to a structural load.

Regardless of the purchase, both hitches are rated for the same load and from a towing perspective they are both more than adequate given their rating (class I). Any claims beyond that are purely speculation as I doubt either manufacturer has tested the breaking points using a bike rack or cargo carrier. What I have provided is simply my opinion on why I chose Drawtite instead of Curt.
 
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Joe Mama, Timely post! I just ordered a Curt hitch (only option when you order through U-Haul site) and them immediately cancelled the order after seeing your post. That is very interesting that the Darwtite doesn't need heat shield trimming. The U-Haul guy made it sound like its not a big deal. Any experts want to weigh in on the heat shield trimming and the downside of it?
 
thanirs said:
Joe Mama, Timely post! I just ordered a Curt hitch (only option when you order through U-Haul site) and them immediately cancelled the order after seeing your post. That is very interesting that the Darwtite doesn't need heat shield trimming. The U-Haul guy made it sound like its not a big deal. Any experts want to weigh in on the heat shield trimming and the downside of it?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure that cutting heat shield is an overly big deal, I personally just didn't want to because IMO the hitch does not take the place of the heat shield. I doubt there is any real safety risk by removing it, but there is a possibility that the floor area above could get warmer than if the heat shield was in its original state.

For me it wasn't worth the extra installation time or potential safety risks by going with the Curt since there don't appear to be any benefits. At the end of the day the Drawtite/Hidden Hitch look better on the vehicle since its less visible.
 
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scheezler said:
any pics of either of these installed?
Click to expand...

Draw-Tite pictured here. Attaching it to the frame behind the heat shield was a bear, not much room. I also had to file a stop inside the hitch sleave to fit a Thule bike rack, because the pin holes were not lining up. It's an older 4 bike rack, and may be for a Class II 1-1/4" hitch, so the stop may be there to prevent using a 4 bike rack on a hitch rated for 2 bike only.

DSCN1145.jpg


DSCN1139.jpg


DSCN1141.jpg


DSCN1144.jpg


DSCN1142.jpg


DSCN1143.jpg


DSCN1150.jpg
 
I've got the Curt hitch installed on my 2009 (I've always liked the quality of construction of the Curt units, and eTrailer is LOCAL to me, so I went down and compared them).

I tow a pop-up camper with it (e-brakes!) and it has NEVER given me any concern.
 
IDisposable said:
I've got the Curt hitch installed on my 2009 (I've always liked the quality of construction of the Curt units, and eTrailer is LOCAL to me, so I went down and compared them).

I tow a pop-up camper with it (e-brakes!) and it has NEVER given me any concern.
Click to expand...
didn't know etrailer has a B&M store front. I assumed the "e" part of it meant online only :p.

For anyone else who might be near an etrailer AND shopping for a hitch, why not see if the CX5 hitch may fit. Curt already says no but I still think it may be doable in terms of mount points. Only concer is clearing the exhaust since the CX5 has dual exhaust. Measurements from CX5 owners. I haven't been using the car let alone get under or service it to confirm but it's all there is someone wants to try that route.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Measurement-Request-for-Curt-Hitch&highlight=


On another note, I wonder if the +'12 curts fit '06-10.?. The rear end is essentially the same but the '12 hitches has a different design (not referring to the added heat shield but how it is mounted).
 
I installed a curt hitch a few weeks ago. I used a unibit to enlarge the holes in the bumper and bolted it on - no fuss. It took about 30 minutes and didn't require moving the muffler or anything.
 
Yes, according to the manual they lack the stopping power and the ATX isn't equipped with the required cooling to safely manage any towed load.

Effectively, you add a trailer and you are not covered by insurance in the case of an accident.
 
BRIAN_MP5T said:
Yes, according to the manual they lack the stopping power and the ATX isn't equipped with the required cooling to safely manage any towed load.

Effectively, you add a trailer and you are not covered by insurance in the case of an accident.
Click to expand...

Haha! Tell that to all the Mazda5's outside North America with the same brakes, same tranny's, some with smaller engines, and all rated to tow over 1300 lbs.

You do need to insure your trailer if you plan on using one. But adding a hitch does not void insurance. It's all about the GVWR, since the manufacturer has not rated the Mazda 5 for towing in NA it doesn't matter if you spread the weight over two or three axles you still can't exceed the GVWR.

The 2007 Mazda5's GVWR is 4572 lbs. The curb weight of a AT 2007 Mazda5 is 3389 lbs. So 4572 - 3389 = 1183 lbs of weight that I am insured for.

So for me going camping with the family: Me:180 lbs + wife: 130 lbs + kids: 80 lbs + the trailer tongue weight (unloaded is very small): 10 lbs = 400 lbs. 1183 - 590 = 783 lbs that I am allowed to put in either the car or trailer or both.

Or, for me going to the dump or picking up soil, bark mulch, etc: 1183 - 190 = 993 lbs of weight I can throw into that trailer and the car.

And actually, just for those worried about their car or transmission etc. What we're talking about here is just the GVWR, in the UK, the Mazda 5 is rated to tow another 1300 lbs... you'd just have to calculate your tongue weight and add that to your GVWR.

The jurry is still out on those with current warranties though. The consensus seems to be that if something major happens, just remove the hitch. Happy towing!!
 
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