Best Trailer Hitch for 2012 Mazda5

Any suggestions?

I just installed the Hidden Hitch on my 2012 this PM. The hitch + wiring kit went on sale for $175 shipped on Ebay. I like the way it looks, you don't see the bar like the other brand does. All brands for the 2012 are all rated at 2000 lbs. So the difference of mounting design is not crucial as long as you know what your limitations are. The install was a bit challenging but not at all difficult.

The challenges are:

1. Making the one hole bigger over the passenger side in order to insert metal mounting piece. I elected to open it with a metal grind bit I purchased from Lowes for $5.00 (I connected it to a drill).

2. Figuring out how to fish in the metal support and the bolt into the frame. But you'll figure it out once you follow the instructions.

3. Bending the exhaust shield to bolt the driver side of the hitch. After several bending it became quite comfortable. It is pretty easy as the shield is made of aluminum. Just the thought of bending a new piece caused me to think twice lol.

Just my 2 cents. G/L

I too am looking for a hitch for the MZ5, but need a 2" receiver. Not to tow, but to hook up the various 2" receiver required items I have accumulated with the last SUV, Minivan, and RV we had. Anyone see one? I am not a fan of adapters.

torquelover said:

I too am looking for a hitch for the MZ5, but need a 2" receiver. Not to tow, but to hook up the various 2" receiver required items I have accumulated with the last SUV, Minivan, and RV we had. Anyone see one? I am not a fan of adapters.

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You won't find a 2" hitch for the M5 - they simply don't exist. The only hitch you will find is a class 1 with an 1 1/4" opening.

I installed a Hidden Hitch - installation was easy and it looks awesome and truly is hidden.

Thanks for the replies. Can I assume that the Hidden Hitch or any other Class 1 hitch can accommodate many different bike racks and cargo boxes and/or fold-down cargo platforms?

If you check the Owners Manual, it tells you that the vehicle is not to have a hitch attached and is not rated for towing of any kind.

I had a hitch installed by U-haul for the purpose of using a cargo carrier and bike racks. Here's my thread on it:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123801377-2012-Mazda5-trailer-hitch&highlight=hitch

Cackalacka said:

Thanks for the replies. Can I assume that the Hidden Hitch or any other Class 1 hitch can accommodate many different bike racks and cargo boxes and/or fold-down cargo platforms?

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Yes, but you still have to adhere to the various weights as specified by the accessory manufacturer. Although a class 1 hitch has a rated tongue weight of 200lbs (2000lbs towing weight), many (if not all) bike rack manufacturers limit you to 2 bikes with a class 1 hitch due to torque/stress created by the bike rack setup. We have 3 light aluminum bikes that we tow without any any problems, but it certainly makes me nervous. I'm not sure about cargo platforms, but I suspect they too will have certain restrictions when used with a class 1 hitch. Most cargo platforms and bike racks intended for a 1 1/4" are really intended for a class 2 hitch (350lbs tongue weight, 3500 towing capacity).

Its too bad a class 2 hitch isn't made for the M5, but its likely because hitch manufacturer's don't want the liability since the M5 isn't meant to tow. That being said, in the UK, the M5 can tow 1300kg-1600kg (2865lbs-3527lbs) and their engines are MUCH smaller (1.8L and 2.0L)....go figure.

I would have considered importing a hitch from the UK, but their hitches (or towbars as they call them) are completely different than those in North America.

Yes, that's my problem, I have a 4-bike rack here. All bikes are aluminum frame, so they are light, but that's why I need the 2" receiver. Guess my next vehicle will need to comply here. I was surprised to see the new Escape on the showroom with a factory 2" receiver. They can be had for the CX-5, which is a prospect for me.

The hook at the back is designed to pull the M5 out should it be stuck so that hook has a capacity of the weight of the M5. The "Hidden Hitch/Draw-Tite" is bolted on that hook thereby giving the hitch that capacity. Tow-hitch manufacturer is giving a warning of no more than 2000 lbs; I would assume that should be the lower limit number so as long as you stay below that number it should be okay. I hauled a harbor freight (1200 lbs) utility trailer with a fridge on it and it went fine. Just take your time and remember that your hauling something. Again keep it within 2000 lbs and it'll be all good.

As far as brand, I have used Curt many times and the fit/finish seemed to be of good quality.

I'm sure they make adapters for a 1.25 inch hitch receiver since so many of the racks and accessories are made to fit a 2 inch receiver. The following link on etrailers.com will give you some help. http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Hitch_Accessories-sf-Hitch_Adapter.aspx

MarkVII88 said:

I'm sure they make adapters for a 1.25 inch hitch receiver since so many of the racks and accessories are made to fit a 2 inch receiver. The following link on etrailers.com will give you some help. http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Hitch_Accessories-sf-Hitch_Adapter.aspx

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Adapters aren't the issue - they can be found easily. The problem is when you use an adapter, you essentially reduce the tongue weight of your hitch by 50%. So if you start with a class 1 hitch (200lbs tongue weight), after adapter use and the weight of the accessory you attach, you're left with very little carrying capacity.

I clicked on your link and selected the first product and this is what it said in the description:

Note: Tongue weight capacity of hitch will be reduced by 50% with use of adapter

Class 1 hitches have very limited use outside of towing a small trailer. Accessories such as bike rakes and cargo racks aren't overly conducive to a class 1 hitch. You can opt to ignore the recommended weights, but that becomes a huge safety concern and would only be a matter of time before disaster stuck.

Here are a few things to consider.

1) The whole tow tongue vs. tow rating is a dummies guide. For all hitch Classes, notice how the rated tongue weight is exactly 10% tow capacity. Not all hitches are created equally. Use common sense. IF a hitch has more/better mounting points, it probably is more secure, by how much is debatable. If it appears to have a flimsy design/mount, then it probably is. It seems all hitches are under-rated or have tolerance built into their design. You can probably exceed the limit but to what point before safety becomes a concern is up to you to find out. Test, Test, Test.

2) I don’t like the idea of adapters either. Remember riding on a seesaw as a kid (skinny kid vs fat kid)? The farther the weight is from the pivot point, the more force is excreted by the weight; in this case the adapter make the bikes weight more. I’ve seen comments on 50% loss when using an adapter but my common sense tells me this is again a dummies guide (on the safe side, rightfully). A good/high percentage lost, sure, but not 50% but that’s just my opinion. BUT keep in mind that if you use a 4 bike rack with an adapter, this means even more weight farther away from the pivot -yikes! Use you common sense and when adding an extender and test, test, test before hitting the open road.

3) I’ve found a few 1.25” hitch bike racks that carry 4 bikes. Look around and they shall be found. I don’t recall the names but they are not common/big names like Yakima/Thule but are pricey and seem to have good reviews. Actually, I think one of them do make a 1.25” 4 bike rack.

4) Pure personal bias but Curt gets my vote over Hidden Hitch/Draw Tight in any configuration for any car.


I am not a hitch expert and these are just my opinions.

There are several 4 bike racks designed to be used with a 1.25" hitch opening. I have a Thule 4 bike rack that is designed for 1.25" hitch (it also has an adapter/sleeve so it can be used on a 2" hitch). You need to remember that two hitch classes are made with the 1.25" opening - class I (200lbs tongue weight) and class II (350lbs tongue weight). Just because something fits, doesn't mean the sky is the limit. This is especially true when you consider bike and cargo racks because there is extreme torque placed on the hitch, specifically the receiver. It is not safe to load 4 bikes onto a rack with a class I hitch even though you might be at or below the 200lbs tongue weight. Curt actually mandates the use of a special strap that is designed to reduce bike rack movement/bouncing thereby reducing stress on the hitch.

There is not a bike rack manufacturer that endorses carrying more than two bikes on a class I hitch. Class II hitches on the other is no problem and can safely carry 4 bikes.

I fully understand that these are simply ratings and that any given product might have a higher breaking point. However, unless you're an engineer, I wouldn't be conducting load tests on the open road. There is a reason these ratings exist they are certainly not a "guideline" for dummies. Hitch load ratings should be respected to avoid failure. Minor variances may be fine, but its a risk the user takes.

That being said, I carry three bikes on our Mazda 5 and have never had a problem, but our bikes are light weight aluminum and I load the heaviest closest to the vehicle.

JOE MAMA said:

There are several 4 bike racks designed to be used with a 1.25" hitch opening. I have a Thule 4 bike rack that is designed for 1.25" hitch (it also has an adapter/sleeve so it can be used on a 2" hitch). You need to remember that two hitch classes are made with the 1.25" opening - class I (200lbs tongue weight) and class II (350lbs tongue weight). Just because something fits, doesn't mean the sky is the limit. This is especially true when you consider bike and cargo racks because there is extreme torque placed on the hitch, specifically the receiver. It is not safe to load 4 bikes onto a rack with a class I hitch even though you might be at or below the 200lbs tongue weight. Curt actually mandates the use of a special strap that is designed to reduce bike rack movement/bouncing thereby reducing stress on the hitch.

There is not a bike rack manufacturer that endorses carrying more than two bikes on a class I hitch. Class II hitches on the other is no problem and can safely carry 4 bikes.

I fully understand that these are simply ratings and that any given product might have a higher breaking point. However, unless you're an engineer, I wouldn't be conducting load tests on the open road. There is a reason these ratings exist they are certainly not a "guideline" for dummies. Hitch load ratings should be respected to avoid failure. Minor variances may be fine, but its a risk the user takes.

That being said, I carry three bikes on our Mazda 5 and have never had a problem, but our bikes are lightweight aluminum and I load the heaviest closest to the vehicle.

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I meet up with a guy who “had” a Mazda 5 and he said he had a Class 1 Hidden Hitch with a 1.25” 4 bike rack. He offered to sell the rack for $40, which I passed at the time b/c I was leaning towards roof top carriers. He said he carries 4 bikes fine BUT the key here is in the details which I did not ask. As you said, you have to understand what kind of bikes (err weight) one is carrying before jumping to conclusion that it is not doable or dangerous. Forget the word “bike” b/c I think people automatically jumps to four garbage adult bikes that weight a ton (figuratively). The issue here is simply weight and how far away it is from the pivot. If you are carrying light weight road/hybrid bikes or have kiddie bikes (some cheap kid bikes weight more than a quality adult bike!) AND drive passively, I don’t think it is a problem. I have two Jamis hybrids and do not foresee any issue carrying four of the same spec or mixing in one or two children’s bikes.

For clarity, I would NEVER advocate testing on open roads. I guess it was implicit that you test it out locally before you hit the open road. Also, having a Class I hitch is technically not advisable according to Mazda as this car is not rated to tow at all. Furthermore, I hope you are not taking my comment on “dummies” guide the wrong way. It was not mean to belittle its meaning. I should have said a “reference" guide. I personally like @Dummies books (and consider myself one many times) they are a very entertaining read and have read two myself.

For the ’06-’10, the Curt looks like a MUCH better Class I option. I would not want to try 4 adult bike on a HH/DT Class I b/c they look flimsy to me. I would try it with the Curt’s Class I hitch. Regarding your comment on Curt’s requirement to use a stabilizer strap, did you look into this further or took it at face value? Here’s what I found out about Curt’s disclaimer on stabilizer straps.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123825628-Anyone-using-a-Curt-hitch

I was also hoping CX5 hitches might fit (same general chassis architecture but CX5 is more reinforced in the back –confirmed myself at the auto show) b/c I would really prefer a 2” receiver but the Curt tech informed me that it will not fit b/c the Mz5 hitch is 4” too short in comparison. Then again, looking back, they mount differently and the CX5 stick out (guestimate about 2” each side) to mount onto the bottom side of the frame rails whereas the Mz5 Curt mounts to the inner side of the frame rails…. Hmmmm…..
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123813010-Another-Hitch-Thread-But-With-A-Twist

The best advice I can give regarding the safe use of hitches, racks and trailers is to not take anyone's "personal opinion" advice when they've never actually used any of the products. The way someone thinks something "looks" has nothing to with facts or reality. Stick with the stated guidelines and use recommendations from reputable shops, on-line retailers like www.etrailer.com and those of us who have used the products.

The bigger issue I think you may have since it's for a 2012 and you're obviously not out of warranty, since Mazda explicitly states in the manual not to tow with, if your tranny or engine blows up and Mazda see's a hitch, they will probably blame it on towing and say they're not liable... even if you just had a little bike carrier on there. I'm out of warranty so it's hard for me to say what I would or wouldn't do. If something like that did happen, you could always uninstall the hitch and hope they don't notice the enlarged holes. Up to you...

I too am looking for a hitch for my Mazda5 (now known as the Premacy). I don't know what the big deal is, when I owned my 2008 Yaris Sedan, I bought the Curt Class I trailer hitch (from etrailer.com) and I installed it myself, also bought the trailer light power block thing that you wire up to the car's signals because there is no trailer light kit for the Yaris (that I could find) so I installed that too, I went out and bought a 300 lbs. aluminum trailer for around $1,400 (new, brand called Aluma) and I hauled a couple of quads and sometimes did odd jobs with it like moving and trash hauling, probably towed close to 1,000 lbs. with no problem, the car didn't choke up either since if you think about it, filling up the Yaris with 5 adults plus a full trunk would be about 1,000 lbs. if not more.

The owner's manual stated: "In Canada, the towing capacity is 700 lbs. In the United States, it is not recommended for towing." Same car right? I still towed, as long as you use your brain and make sure it's a safe and strong install and your lights are working correctly and wires aren't dragging on the ground, I don't see the harm. I even used red threadlocker for the bolts to make sure the jarring won't free them so easily.

The Yaris also has those "rescue me" subframe tabs that stick out from under the vehicle and that is where this particular hitch mounts to.

I think I am partial to the Hidden Hitch only because many people are saying it's not so obvious, which is good.

Would https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) work if you needed a two inch receiver?

diamonddragon said:

I just installed the Hidden Hitch on my 2012 this PM. The hitch + wiring kit went on sale for $175 shipped on Ebay.

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What was the model of the hitch? All I could find on Amazon for hidden hitch is https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
it seems to look very different compare to the https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) when it comes to the mounting.