Mazda5 ATF Recommendations...Fluid, cooler, filter?

How do you notice a fluid "break-in"? I've never noticed any later changes with Castrol IMV or Mobil 1 - maybe because I only do 3.5 quart drain & replace 3 times over 15k miles, so it's not a big change, since it's a gradual change in new fluid.
Butt dyno :D

The best answer is more questions. Can you feel when the auto shifts gears? Can you identify hestitaion or when the torque converter locks? If yes, then you'll know.

I think the partial changel probably won't do as much of a diff. There's a lot of fluid in the torque converter which is why I was willing to dump 10-11 bottles. I am highly
against drail/fill, seems like a waste to me but that's just my opinion.
 
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Can I get a consensus on the Amsoil ATF? Yey or Ney?

I have no proof of this, but I think the older cars work fine with Amsoil and the newer do not. This is based on what I've seen people say on here and my experience with mine and the wife's car.

I put 3 quarts in my wife's 2006 Mazda3, no problems and it's still in there. I put 3 quarts in my 2010 Mazda5 and it was smelly (when hot) until I did 2 drain and fills with Mazda fluid. It immediately went away after the second change.

My advice (worth what you pay for it) is a 3 quart drain and fill with factory fluid every 15-20k miles is the way to go.
 
I thought the 5sp auto from '08-current is identical, except perhaps for TCU change (2.5 L power band). I don't think Mazda would dedicate money for a new tranny. From what I read on BITOG, the odor is due the additives. Just a silly stupid-stition but I equate a stronger odor to being more potent/concentrated.

Doing early drain/fill is a prob a good idea and can likely avoid more invovling job later. If the car is used or if you are a procrastinator, flush is the more appropriate one time affair.
 
I bought my 2010 5 GT from the original owner with 78K miles. The fluid appeared to be untouched since new-they had all maintenance done at dealership, and no mention of transmission maintenance. Guess that's per the owner's manual- which says you drive with original fluid/filter until it burns up, LOL. I dumped the fluid, checked the magnet- it was clean- and put 3 quarts Royal Purple Max ATF in. Noticed improvment right away- which indicates to me how shot the old fluid was. Before, the trans didn't like to downshift- without giving it a lot of gas. That's better, and seems to shift smoother throughout. Given that there are still 5 quarts of old fluid in circulation, I will likely do a complete flush and filter before the Phoenix summer kicks in.
 
I bought my 2010 5 GT from the original owner with 78K miles. The fluid appeared to be untouched since new-they had all maintenance done at dealership, and no mention of transmission maintenance. Guess that's per the owner's manual- which says you drive with original fluid/filter until it burns up, LOL. I dumped the fluid, checked the magnet- it was clean- and put 3 quarts Royal Purple Max ATF in. Noticed improvment right away- which indicates to me how shot the old fluid was. Before, the trans didn't like to downshift- without giving it a lot of gas. That's better, and seems to shift smoother throughout. Given that there are still 5 quarts of old fluid in circulation, I will likely do a complete flush and filter before the Phoenix summer kicks in.

Just do two more drain and fills and you'll have almost all of it changed out.
 
Yep. May go with the Castrol IMV, rather than the Royal Purple though- that be some pricey ($16) stuff compared to the IMV at $6...
 
30K Update

Update: Reached 30K and tranny is still relatively smooth.

I was also planning on replacing the add-on inline filter (suggested 30K interval). Came across an eye opener read - enjoy.



It's clear to me that many failures are due to contamination. If you want documented information on failures and contamination, go to SAE.org and research papers by engineers Eleftherakis and Khalil (E & K). I would refer you to three papers (there are others); 2001-01-0867 "Automatic Transmission Hydraulic Cleanliness" (Nieuwland & Droste), 99PC-418 "Optimizing Automatic Transmission Filtration" (Eleftherakis & Khalil), 900561 "Development of a Lab Test Contaminant for Transmissions" (Eleftherakis & Khalil).

It doesn't really matter whether you change the oil or add better filtration, the same end result is achieved... namely the elimination of contaminants and the extension of tranny life. The first change is the most important as, according to the years of testing done by E&K, 75% of the contaminants developed by an automatic in it's lifetime are present in the first 5K miles... either from built-in manufacturing debris or break-in. The difference is that, if you change the oil when the contamination level of the oil reached it's limit, the oils itself is in pretty good shape yet. Additional filtration is a much an oil life extender as a tranny life extender.

After sampling the oil in thousands of automatics in service, they found that the average trans with 70K or more miles that has not had a service contains approximately 263 mg/l (milligrams per liter) of contaminants, 90 percent of which is metallic. Of those metallic particles, 51 percent are ferrous (iron/steel), 21 percent copper, 11 percent aluminum and 7 percent lead. The particles range in size from 5 to 80 microns, about 82 percent of them larger than 5 microns.

Long term, the metallic particles cause wear on the pump vanes/housing and on bearings and bushings, but valves don't like debris either and that's where the shorter term problems can come from. A chunk of debris can score the bore of a valve and cause it to leak, or jam outright. I don't have to tell you what a metallic particle will do to a rubber seal or o-ring. With the advent of electronic valves, a new problem was created. What is an electronically controlled valve? An electromagnet! Magnets attract ferrous particles, so the iron in the trans is gravitating to those areas and causing valve malfunctions to occur even sooner. Once the valves start to malfunction, you get reduced pressures or delayed shifts, all of which cause extra wear on the clutches. Often it's so slow and imperceptible that the driver doesn't feel it until it gets really bad. That might be at 100K miles, so he says, "Oh well" and has the trans rebuilt when with some care, that trans might have outlasted the car. Sometimes there is so much manufacturing grunge (or remanufacturing... rebuilt trans have the same trouble) in the trans that it fails under warranty (very common).

Thing is, if you can keep the contaminants under control, you can greatly extend the reliability of the trans and the life of the oil. I interviewed Abe Khalil for a project and he said the first thing he does with a new car of his own is change the trans oil and filter (within about 5K miles). According to him, that eliminates 90 percent of the potential problems down the road.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2268515/2
 
When I asked Mobil if they have tranny fluid for 2012-2013 mazda 5 this is the reply I received:

Mobil does not have a suitable product for your application, please procure from your local dealer.

MAZDA TSB: 05-002/11 - A/T - Correct Fluid Applications
Last issued: 02/23/2011; supersedes the previous bulletin 05-005/08 issued on 04/11/08

This TSB applies to all 2004-2011 Mazda3s with A/T. Always be sure to use the correct automatic transmission fluid when replacing the ATF. Using ATF other than ATF M-V (Type M5) in automatic transmissions designed to use this fluid may cause shift quality complaints. Using ATF other than Mercon V or Mercon LV ATF in automatic transmissions designed to use these fluids may cause transmission damage.
NOTE:
ATF M-V (Type M5) is not the same fluid as Mercon V or Mercon LV ATF.
ATF M-V (Type M5) has a greater viscosity than Mercon V and Mercon LV ATF at low temperatures.
ATF M-V (Type M5) has a greater anti-judder specification than Mercon V and Mercon LV ATF.

The correct Mazda Service Fluid is ATF M-V (Type M5) part #0000-77-112E-01.

What I found so far:

Amsoil
Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Transmission Fluid (ATF) According to Amsoil, meets Mazda's ATF M-V (Type 5) specification.

Red Line
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) ATF According to the manufacturer, this is a suitable replacement

Castrol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) meets the Mazda M-V specification - Confirmed directly by Castrol customer service.

Valvoline
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) - meets the Mazda M-V specification - Confirmed directly by Valvoline customer service.

So just three others that are qualified except the Mazda one?

Which one of this oil gives better result for a 2013 model Mazda5?
 
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Which one of this oil gives better result for a 2013 model Mazda5?

Personally I've been using Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF from about 25k to the current 110k (kilometers).
I got my car used and started with the 3 x 1 gallon flushes and 1 gallon change every 30k after (or every two years give or take). I also added external tranny filter and cooler from the start.
So far a happy camper.
Would be interesting to see as I know for a fact others drive way more then me :)
 
Which one of this oil gives better result for a 2013 model Mazda5?
That's a loaded question. Unless any one person has tried all of them AND on a Mazda 5, every feedback is anecdotal. The only correct answer, like it or not, is OEM fluid. The task is to keep it clean and use the correct fluid (NOT Mercone V).
 
@Vasy, @Silentnoise713 and ....

BECK/ARNLEY would be almost equal to OEM - see below:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ansmission-automatic,transmission+fluid,11387

BECK/ARNLEY Walmart marketplace has it too - it says for Mazda (only) - pricier than RockAuto

If u go thorough the link below, you find filter, cooler etc - all OE equivalent - no commercial alternative - if u search by part #, you will find OEM fluid too (no part #):
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2012,5,2.5l+l4,1501076,transmission-automatic
 
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That's a loaded question. Unless any one person has tried all of them AND on a Mazda 5, every feedback is anecdotal. The only correct answer, like it or not, is OEM fluid. The task is to keep it clean and use the correct fluid (NOT Mercone V).

It appears that Valvoline and Redline D4 ATF are the Full Synthetic oil for the AT?
Redline is known for ATs among mechanics. Maybe better bet?
 
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It appears that Valvoline and Redline D4 ATF are the Full Synthetic oil for the AT?
Redline is known for ATs among mechanics. Maybe better bet?

Depends how often you change it. If you do often, cheaper is better as it has no time to go bad.
If you like to "never do it again" go for more expensive.
I think adding a tranny cooler is way more important then figuring out the fluid and it is the temperature that kills it faster rather then a brand of correct fluid.
 
Depends how often you change it. If you do often, cheaper is better as it has no time to go bad.
If you like to "never do it again" go for more expensive.
I think adding a tranny cooler is way more important then figuring out the fluid and it is the temperature that kills it faster rather then a brand of correct fluid.

Spot on. I have been doing my tranny maintenance on Integra's for years but never knew about the consequence of heat - its lastnight I read on a review on Redline on Walmart.

What is the optimal way to go about on adding a cooler? There were several on RockAuto - members of forum would have figured many other - any recommendations? How much time is needed and how involving - such as drill holes?
 
Spot on. I have been doing my tranny maintenance on Integra's for years but never knew about the consequence of heat - its lastnight I read on a review on Redline on Walmart.

What is the optimal way to go about on adding a cooler? There were several on RockAuto - members of forum would have figured many other - any recommendations? How much time is needed and how involving - such as drill holes?


I went with a basic one as I live in a mild climate: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) but if you live in a colder climate I'd go with the: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
as it has a bypass so when the fluid is too cold it will not be cooled any further as that is no good either.

Most of the how to can be found here: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123839068-2012-Mazda5-How-To-Master-Sheet-READ-ME

Direct link to the cooler: Thread 1, Thread 2 or Thread 3.

Over all installation is not that hard, takes maybe two hours 1st time.
It is also a good time to flush a fluid as you need to disconnect the lines anyway, so can flush/drain at the same time. (you can watch how did it in the video in the link above)
 
I hate that the splash shield needs to be removed to drain & Fill ATF?

For engine oil, there are holes to access without having to remove.
 
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Smell goes away in about 500-1000k miles. All you have to do is use the recirculation mode when stopped. Then if you want switch it back to fresh air mode, once your moving, then go ahead, pretty much solves the problem. The tranny vents inside the engine compartment, so if you have it on fresh air mode, you will get the smell. I just did another drain n refill on mine and it's been about 200 miles and it doesn't really smell now. If I have it on fresh air mode, I might smell it a bit at a stop light. But, it will go away completely. I've been using maxlife atf for 50k and each time I do a drain refill, this issue happens and it ALWAYs goes away within 1000k miles.
 
When I first changed out the filter and gasket, no replacement parts were available for Mazda so I went with a 2008 Ford Focus kit. Gasket fits perfectly and the filter works but the (discharge?) tube was shorter on the Focus filter. I need to open the pan to replace the pressure control solenoid and went shopping for a replacement Mazda gasket and filter and was confused by some misinformation. If you own a 2008 and google/Amazon for filters that 'fit my car', you may get the wrong filter.

TLDR, FNR5 (5 speed auto) filter has a longer tubing.

Using WIX's catalog as an example:
http://wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=1
'06-'08 ref part#58617 for the 4F27E (4 speed auto) THIS IS WRONG. 2008 is a 5speed.
'09-current ref part# 58113 for the FNR5 (5 speed auto)


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Smell goes away in about 500-1000k miles. All you have to do is use the recirculation mode when stopped. Then if you want switch it back to fresh air mode, once your moving, then go ahead, pretty much solves the problem. The tranny vents inside the engine compartment, so if you have it on fresh air mode, you will get the smell. I just did another drain n refill on mine and it's been about 200 miles and it doesn't really smell now. If I have it on fresh air mode, I might smell it a bit at a stop light. But, it will go away completely. I've been using maxlife atf for 50k and each time I do a drain refill, this issue happens and it ALWAYs goes away within 1000k miles.

Since I got the M5, driving 8hrs or so I ended up in getting a headache - previously I used a rental car.
Last time, I set the vent to fresh air frequently and brought the windows down periodically - also set the temp to the lowest to avoid mixing of hot air - had it recirculate other times as AC was on. I didn't have the headache but the next day had the headache - wondering if this car ventilation is an issue?
 
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