heres what some of my thoughts were. the high rpm that stopped when wheels wouldnt spin.... i thought could have been from a sticky slave clutch or release. but the fact it still stalls in gear throws me off... unless its only partially engaging, which then made me think center links... but once again ive had that problem before n shifter pretty much didnt go in to gear... so confused with this n especially ticked off....
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2003 MP5, 5-speed NO START, NO RUN
- Thread starter dugie33
- Start date
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
1st, just to rule this out...have your wife push the clutch pedal in and out multipe times with the car off, while you are standing in front of it...looking to the left of the air box, just below on the front of the gear box, you should see a little arm extension pressed into a cup like flange sticking out of the boxes bell housing...This should move when the clutch is pressed in, and move back when the clutch is let out...If that isn't happening, its ALL a clutch issue, and you mostly likely simply have air in the clutch cyilnder/lines...
if that checks out, moving on: can you have the car running...and move through the gears WITHOUT pushing the clutch pedal? and is there any gates? Like does the shifter still go into the right 'gear' positions, if that makes sense? That will help to start narrowing it down...
If you can simply select any gear without using the pedal...the clutch failed in some way, probably something to do with the pressure plate...as this can happen in the other direction if the throwout bearing or release fork fail (clutch is permanently engaged)...yours could be stuck not engaging...
if you can select gears without pushing in the clutch pedal, but the car doesn't move when in gear...probably not the clutch, and probably not the layshaft/input shaft or gear shafts...most likely the differential or an axle...
If you have a stock protege diff (as in, not an LSD)...just a failed axle will prevent the car from moving...What you'll need to do is to see under the car as SAFELY as possible. Use a jack and some stands, get the front tires off the ground, block the rear tires, use the e-brake, etc...don't get fully under the car, but get in a low enough position to try and see the driver's side axle shaft, as well as the intermediate shaft traveling towards the passenger side front wheel...While looking as best as possible, have your wife select first gear and let the clutch out and give a very small amount of throttle...
An number of different things could happen with this...if neither axle turns...its inside the box, and probably a problem with the diff's spider gears (i doubt the ring gear, as you'll notice a lot of crunching and grinding with that)...if the axle cups at the gear box spin, but one or both axles aren't turning...the inner CV joint failed...if the axles turn, but still no wheel movement...the outer CV joints failed, or the spline axle stub/hub input failed at that wheel...
an open diff will send power to the wheel with the least resistance...if any of the above outer parts have failed, or are improperly installed, the car won't move...But usually if anything goes in the gear box, you'll know it by grinding sounds and other noises coming from it...if you are getting engine power into that box (as the clutch is working properly), not hearing anything completely obviously wrong, i'm guessing outside of it are where your problems lie...
if that checks out, moving on: can you have the car running...and move through the gears WITHOUT pushing the clutch pedal? and is there any gates? Like does the shifter still go into the right 'gear' positions, if that makes sense? That will help to start narrowing it down...
If you can simply select any gear without using the pedal...the clutch failed in some way, probably something to do with the pressure plate...as this can happen in the other direction if the throwout bearing or release fork fail (clutch is permanently engaged)...yours could be stuck not engaging...
if you can select gears without pushing in the clutch pedal, but the car doesn't move when in gear...probably not the clutch, and probably not the layshaft/input shaft or gear shafts...most likely the differential or an axle...
If you have a stock protege diff (as in, not an LSD)...just a failed axle will prevent the car from moving...What you'll need to do is to see under the car as SAFELY as possible. Use a jack and some stands, get the front tires off the ground, block the rear tires, use the e-brake, etc...don't get fully under the car, but get in a low enough position to try and see the driver's side axle shaft, as well as the intermediate shaft traveling towards the passenger side front wheel...While looking as best as possible, have your wife select first gear and let the clutch out and give a very small amount of throttle...
An number of different things could happen with this...if neither axle turns...its inside the box, and probably a problem with the diff's spider gears (i doubt the ring gear, as you'll notice a lot of crunching and grinding with that)...if the axle cups at the gear box spin, but one or both axles aren't turning...the inner CV joint failed...if the axles turn, but still no wheel movement...the outer CV joints failed, or the spline axle stub/hub input failed at that wheel...
an open diff will send power to the wheel with the least resistance...if any of the above outer parts have failed, or are improperly installed, the car won't move...But usually if anything goes in the gear box, you'll know it by grinding sounds and other noises coming from it...if you are getting engine power into that box (as the clutch is working properly), not hearing anything completely obviously wrong, i'm guessing outside of it are where your problems lie...
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alright thats a lot to digest lol. but will defiantly try all this. only one problem my ebrake is a paper weight at the moment.... and i dont really wanna spend $160 on all the cables if imma need a 1,500 transmission... also my diff is stock... if its gone can i replace with a lsd? if so is it worth it?
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Oh forgot about your ebrake, just block the rear wheels with something like a block of wood...you won't really need to get completely under the car to see what i'm talking about, just sort of off to the side with the wheel turned...but you obviously don't want the car falling off haha...
yeah, LSDs are great...how badly you need one depends on what you plan on doing to the car in the future...kind of overkill on a stock car, but won't hurt anything...
yeah, LSDs are great...how badly you need one depends on what you plan on doing to the car in the future...kind of overkill on a stock car, but won't hurt anything...
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
Transmission will not be anywhere near that if you dont want a "New One"
It is easy to source them here at the wrecking yard in good condition, should be similar for your area.
It is easy to source them here at the wrecking yard in good condition, should be similar for your area.
i am going to follow suggestions and take a peak at everything from underneath. if i get in to tearing tranny apart i am thinking about swapping motor and trans to a BP 1.8L DOHC turbo with a 5-speed.... would this actually be an upgrade or worth it? n i do want a new one because i dont like doing things time and time again. I spend 13+hrs a day at work fixing the same things repeditavely because people dont replace parts with new ones. when i finially get to it its months before we replace it. so its frustrating to me to deal with used parts...
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Well, considering you're annoyed with the time needed just to get the factory stuff running...I can't really see how a one off bp swap is going to speed anything up with getting the thing on the road...as far as full swaps, the easiest is arguably to a KL V6...which drops right in and uses a G series gear box already (need the V6 bell housing though)...only real hiccups so far with those that have done it (and there are actually quite a few) is the A/C system not being completely compatible without some custom work...but that is something that can get addressed after the car is 100% running and reliable...
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
Agreed, The NA KL V6 is a solid swap and is reliable
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Agreed, The NA KL V6 is a solid swap and is reliable
yeah, overall its a pretty awesome engine...its all aluminum, and weighs roughly the same as the FS because of it...Has a great power band, happily revs, is extremely smooth even with factory ecu's...and with the right exhaust, is one of the best sounding small displacement engines around...
you 'can' turbo it...but most that do the swap with that intention are so happy with the NA KL...they just live with it...
is there any special items i should aquire for this swap? motor mounts, special nuts bolts, a different pedal system etc etc. i know i need motor trans ecu and wiring... but will the v6 just drop right in other than ac? and i do need wiring harness right, they arent the same for any lucky reason? lol
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