2003 MP5, 5-speed NO START, NO RUN

FINALLY FIGURED IT OUT. The alternator is fubared and inturn did not supply enough power to coils causing misfire. Alternator being seized caused belt to snap. On my way to pick up a new alternator and belt right now for $80. I bought car for $500, intake cleaner and maf cleaner from a friend for free. A $1 tooth brush. about 4 hrs of work and she is good to go. Probably one of my better investments. Car has 145,000 km on it.

Thank You Installshield 2 for all your help.
 
FINALLY FIGURED IT OUT. The alternator is fubared and inturn did not supply enough power to coils causing misfire. Alternator being seized caused belt to snap. On my way to pick up a new alternator and belt right now for $80. I bought car for $500, intake cleaner and maf cleaner from a friend for free. A $1 tooth brush. about 4 hrs of work and she is good to go. Probably one of my better investments. Car has 145,000 km on it.

Thank You Installshield 2 for all your help.


glad you figure it out, it is always nice t hear people posting back, so people with the same problem can use the data to solve similar issues.

i would do any maint stuff that the car might need with that mileage. follow the manual
 
So ended up needing a battery too. I am trying to save a little in beginning as i just started new job and daily driver is a 4.7L Dodge Durango SLT and its costing me over $175/ week to get to and from work. So if i can get this car on the road it may cost me that a month then i will have the money to put in to it. As it sits right now it needs 2 spots in floor welded, and ebrake cables. I plan on doing rear wheel wells, front fenders and spraying it in the spring. Then getting forged 2.0 from protegegarage.com and building a beastly boosted motor. My previous car was a BMW 318 running close to 1000 whp. I want my toy back :( lol.

What is this sea foam everyone is talking about? How does it work? and where do i buy? PS I am in Canada.
 
Sea foam

You can buy sea foam at your local NAPA, piston ring or Canadian tire... Pretty much any parts store. It's like 12$ a can works great cleans carbon out of of the motor, I use 1/3 in the crank case, 1/3 in the fuel tank and 1/3 in the intake vacuum port. Make sure when you use to let it sit for 15-20 mins after you dump it into your car
 
...Then getting forged 2.0 from protegegarage.com and building a beastly boosted motor...

There are better platforms to start with if your goals are "PURE SPEED" or "PURE NUMBERS", however first person experience, there is nothing more fun to drive than a built Protege.

Check out my link in the signature, and we can meet up this summer if you like, I live near Ottawa.

Photo Journal
 
so heres the deal. i live in canada and am working in a snow ridden driveway. so i am using ramps. i have a few things working against me. im trying to get alt out but cannot get bottom bolt out as i have next to no swing room for ratchet, bolthas 10+ years of rust on it and cars got no ebrake so rolls without someone inside holding brake pedal down. car rolls even when in gear. any tips or tricks to remove?
 
+1 You need an OBDII scanner to get the codes from this car. While you have it apart, look at the flex portion of the intake pipe (near the throttle body.) They are know to crack and cause poor idle due to unmetered air entering the engine.
This is what I just found wrong with my car. Very similar symptoms as Mike described.
 
ya that alternator is the stupidest thing ive ever dealt with. any alternator ive taken out before was easy n if couldnt do it by hand did it with air tools. this thing u can barely get a toothpick around. if you get into doing this on your car i really hope you have better luck than i have. so frustrated atm.
 
Yea, the stock IM is a huge pain when dealing with the alternator. I'm glad I have a 626 IM; works great with the turbo and makes getting to the alternator super simple.
 
Just another setback yet again

ok so this ones gonna be a story..... while doing alternator i had car on ramps/in gear when i crank on bolt car would roll off. it went into gear etc. still... parked car for a couple days. i went to garage yesterday to start some new projects. the car was parked on some snow for what its worth. i got in an started it and when to reverse but nothing just high revs... tried first same thing. my wife then came over to try n give a hand and pointed out wheels werent moving at all..... now car had a high idle (1,500 RPM) now it doesnt but it does not move.... i personally preferred high revs. if i buy new clutch pressure plate release bearing and flywheel will this fix my problem? its something i was gonna do anyways but really didnt want to at this point :( also when i put car in gear i can feel it... like the slight thud... so i dont think its the cables, also no weird sounds etc so kinda second guessing the problem being a clutch.... thinking more along the lines of axel default/ malfunction. I dont know the technical term but where the axel splines go in the tranny... could they be stripped or could this be a center link issue? anyways everyones been great and very logical so for so hoping this will be the same. i look forward to the comming input. and thanks in advance guys.
 
The Protege has shift rods not cables and the splines aren't known to strip out. It sounds like an internal trans issue (gear select plate?) or possibly a clutch issue. Does any gear engauge?
 
ok so this ones gonna be a story..... while doing alternator i had car on ramps/in gear when i crank on bolt car would roll off. it went into gear etc. still... parked car for a couple days. i went to garage yesterday to start some new projects. the car was parked on some snow for what its worth. i got in an started it and when to reverse but nothing just high revs... tried first same thing. my wife then came over to try n give a hand and pointed out wheels werent moving at all..... now car had a high idle (1,500 RPM) now it doesnt but it does not move.... i personally preferred high revs. if i buy new clutch pressure plate release bearing and flywheel will this fix my problem? its something i was gonna do anyways but really didnt want to at this point :( also when i put car in gear i can feel it... like the slight thud... so i dont think its the cables, also no weird sounds etc so kinda second guessing the problem being a clutch.... thinking more along the lines of axel default/ malfunction. I dont know the technical term but where the axel splines go in the tranny... could they be stripped or could this be a center link issue? anyways everyones been great and very logical so for so hoping this will be the same. i look forward to the comming input. and thanks in advance guys.

This sounds like a Big s*** Sandwich.

Sorry I cant give you some magical news and a quick solution. You might need help from a professional here...
 
ya im kinda thinking this is a job for a pro... or maybe time to buy a stage 2 or 3 tranny n clutch kit and install...... not in budget at the moment but will defiantly fix the problem
 
ok so now that im off work and cant get in trouble ill go into a little more details lol. when car was on ramps it was in gear but it has no ebrake... i was thinking i may have stripped axle or trans splines.... also car goes in gear but wheels dont spin.... i know its in hear because it stalls... also rpms drop etc. so why would car go in gear rev stall with clutch depressed etc but not spin wheels?
 
well kind of thinking about this http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/mazda/bp-dohc-turbo-engine-manual-5-speed-transmission.html#
 
hmm.. I still think it sounds like you broke something internal to that trans and it has gotten jammed in there somewhere. If you jack up the front and have the car in neutral can you spin the tires by hand?
 
Except for the stalling it sounds like it could be a broken diff. The stock MSP lsd sometimes snaps at the flange for the ring gear.... I haven't heard of a P5 having that issue but anything is possible.
 
ok ill have to see whats involved in checking this... and if this is the problem can i upgrade it to an lsd? or will it not work?
 
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