hello there my name is Mike. I am new to the community and wanted to introduce myself. I just bought a mp5 a couple days ago and it has some disabilities going on. first off previous owner states car runs but has to be kept high rpm or it dies? they said they thought it was a dud injector but that does not make sense to me. also car dies all the time... nothing seems to be running except odometer is always on.... figured that was a mp5 normal though. I am planning on cleaning tb, IAC and EGR tomorrow. and checking vaccum hoses and ignition system with soapy water. any hints tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated?
2003 MP5, 5-speed NO START, NO RUN
- Thread starter dugie33
- Start date
ScratchNSniff
Undisputed Parts God
- :
- Way to Many
Vacuum leak, battery wires...
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
No start? Does the coolant temp needle climb during cranking?
204vividPro5
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda pro5
Try
Try cleaning your mass air flow sensor
Try cleaning your mass air flow sensor
update
ok so got a chance to go to shop today. no battery power boosted car.... found mini toggle that controlled blinky red light turned off car started.... left hooked up to cables for a few then when idle stayed at 1500 disconnected cables. car ran like that but charge system light was on and has some smoke comming from passenger side of engine bay... assuming alternator is siezed. as soon as i gave it gas car bogged died n would not restart no juice. :S tore off throttle body, engine side was all black sut so i cleaned that up. bring tb and iacv home to clean as iacv port is clogged. need to wait until tomorrow to get new gaskets. is there a trick to do with the key to make the cel blink the codes out for ya?
ok so got a chance to go to shop today. no battery power boosted car.... found mini toggle that controlled blinky red light turned off car started.... left hooked up to cables for a few then when idle stayed at 1500 disconnected cables. car ran like that but charge system light was on and has some smoke comming from passenger side of engine bay... assuming alternator is siezed. as soon as i gave it gas car bogged died n would not restart no juice. :S tore off throttle body, engine side was all black sut so i cleaned that up. bring tb and iacv home to clean as iacv port is clogged. need to wait until tomorrow to get new gaskets. is there a trick to do with the key to make the cel blink the codes out for ya?
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
You have to get an obd scanner to get the codes with an obd 2 car which is pretty much every car including the protege made after 96. Obd 1 is what blinks the cel to tell you the code
my OBD2 2001 Dodge Durango actually displays the full code ie. p1046 in the digital odometer.
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Well I'm pretty sure the protege doesn't. If it does then me and many other people have waisted a lot of trips to autozone
Cosmic Wonder
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
If your alternator is in fact seized and isn't turning with the engine, it could be the belt smoking as it's turning on the alternator pulley. The belts are on the passenger side so it's possible.
I did read up on this and fully inspected to no prevail,its too bad as a cai is on my todo list once car is running
. bought obd2 scanner last night will see what she has in store.this is exactly what i am thinking has happened. as the smoke was comming right from the alternator, it was kinda squeeling. charge light and cel could both ne tripped if alternator was seized and also when i went to rev car if it didnt have enough power it would puke. how ever i have a feeling if i revved while hooked up to booster cables itd still die lol.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
if the pulley is seized, thats whats killing the engine most likely...or the lack of charge is simply not letting the ignition and/or injectors work properly...the Ignitors use a good bit of electrical power, they'll be the first to 'not work' other than a big stereo or head lights...the injectors may continue to pulse though, which probably caused a build up of carbon being plumbed through your egr system...
so just be careful...missing and stalling with cylinders full of fuel and no spark will quickly destroy the primary catalyst. And those things are a HUGE rip-off, and hard to source aftermarket wise.
The alternator isn't that hard to remove, and it could simply be the pulley/bearing itself...not the alternator's internal generator. You can have the alt bench tested at nearly any parts store after removal, which will point to what part of it is actually dead...
so just be careful...missing and stalling with cylinders full of fuel and no spark will quickly destroy the primary catalyst. And those things are a HUGE rip-off, and hard to source aftermarket wise.
The alternator isn't that hard to remove, and it could simply be the pulley/bearing itself...not the alternator's internal generator. You can have the alt bench tested at nearly any parts store after removal, which will point to what part of it is actually dead...
So I just got a chance to throw scan tool on car. Luckfully it had not been cleared . So here is a list of what i found and a little freeze frame data.....
P0300 Random Misfire
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0140 O2 Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Freeze Frame Data for P0300 Random Misfire
Fuel Sys 1 - CL
Fuel Sys 2 - CL FAULT
Calc Load (%) 17.25
ECT(FARENHEIT) 149
STFTB1 (%) -4.69
LTFTB1 (%) 0.78
Engine RPM 1043
Vehicle Speed (MPH) 8
Spark Adv. (degree) 4.00
I.A.T. (Farenheit) 69
MAF (lb/min) 0.44
TPS (%) 10.59
I know pretty much O2 is crappered out. But that random misfire is puzzling, so any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated. So in mean time i am gonna get a new O2 sensor, but what is with this random misfire?
. So here is a list of what i found and a little freeze frame data.....P0300 Random Misfire
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0140 O2 Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Freeze Frame Data for P0300 Random Misfire
Fuel Sys 1 - CL
Fuel Sys 2 - CL FAULT
Calc Load (%) 17.25
ECT(FARENHEIT) 149
STFTB1 (%) -4.69
LTFTB1 (%) 0.78
Engine RPM 1043
Vehicle Speed (MPH) 8
Spark Adv. (degree) 4.00
I.A.T. (Farenheit) 69
MAF (lb/min) 0.44
TPS (%) 10.59
I know pretty much O2 is crappered out. But that random misfire is puzzling, so any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated. So in mean time i am gonna get a new O2 sensor, but what is with this random misfire?
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Ok, p0300 is annoyingly common on these cars after high mileage...and it can be caused by a number of different problems.
Other than your alternator problem, start with coils...and while you're at it might as well do plugs and wires, as all of this can be done for under $100...and recommended service life for these parts is only 100k miles or so. Just saying, its not a bad idea to replace these while dealing with the alternator...as if they're not dead yet, they probably will be unless you fully know the last time they were replaced...
i chased a p0300 code for months, and it ended up simply being one of the coils...coils die in weird ways, and can start to flip in very specific temp ranges...mine got worse and worse as the outside temp got colder in the fall.
But, as you said...you seem to have some alternator problems mentioned before...so follow up on that as well. the coils may simply be misbehaving from a lack of electrical power, and under no circumstances should you have 'smoke coming from the passenger side of the engine bay'...thats not normal, dude. Electrical issues like this can cause problems with all sensors, so don't just assume the o2 sensor or coils are destroyed just yet...they simply might not be getting the current they need, and thats it...
places like rockauto and parts geek carry decent quality aftermarket parts for these cars...and offer fast shipping and good prices...
Other than your alternator problem, start with coils...and while you're at it might as well do plugs and wires, as all of this can be done for under $100...and recommended service life for these parts is only 100k miles or so. Just saying, its not a bad idea to replace these while dealing with the alternator...as if they're not dead yet, they probably will be unless you fully know the last time they were replaced...
i chased a p0300 code for months, and it ended up simply being one of the coils...coils die in weird ways, and can start to flip in very specific temp ranges...mine got worse and worse as the outside temp got colder in the fall.
But, as you said...you seem to have some alternator problems mentioned before...so follow up on that as well. the coils may simply be misbehaving from a lack of electrical power, and under no circumstances should you have 'smoke coming from the passenger side of the engine bay'...thats not normal, dude. Electrical issues like this can cause problems with all sensors, so don't just assume the o2 sensor or coils are destroyed just yet...they simply might not be getting the current they need, and thats it...
places like rockauto and parts geek carry decent quality aftermarket parts for these cars...and offer fast shipping and good prices...
- :
- Mazda, Protege5 2002
when my car hit 170k miles i did major replacement to to avoid this, replace the spark plugs, wires, coils, intake tube, egr, clean idle, seafoam, flushed all fluids, timing belt, water pump, all belts, o2 sensor, air filter.
i have over 200k now, my car has never seen a tow truck or CEL
i have over 200k now, my car has never seen a tow truck or CEL
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
Just saying, you drive a protege. Don't jinx your self. A cel can come on for something little and/or stupid unimportant issue. Also a starter can up and seize at any moment without reason. ( like mine)
Not trying to be an ass or anything. They are reliable if taken care of. But you dot want to say something like that and jinx your self.
- :
- Mazda, Protege5 2002
no worry. i dont believe in a jinx. is a mechanical part, no part last forever, something has to break at one point or another... i expect with my mileage on the vehicle, either the starter, or alternator will go at anytime.
