Clutch Issues

Hi guys,

I have a manual 2003 protege5 and lately have been having some annoyances with the clutch in 1st gear.
It seems that I have to be very sensitive on the clutch when getting the car to move on 1st. If I let go the clutch too fast (or as I normally would on other cars) it sounds like the gear is grinding (I'm not completely sure, but it makes a DEG-DEG-DEG-DEG-DEG-DEG sound).

It also seems to happen more often during nighttime when it gets colder.

This only happens on 1st gear. Second, third, fourth, and fifth are all smooth.

Change the gear oil

You might have to bleed the clutch master Cylinder (Like Bleeding a Brake System)

or

the obvious one is that the clutch is gone....

Or the pressure plate is warped... Most noticable on cold days/first few engagments.

If so - do not try to resurface it - just replace it.

things to check, and sorry for the length...but unfortunately your problem could be any number of whats being listed.

Clutch slave cylinder, and the release fork (can be checked for binding from just behind the fans on the gear box side of the engine, drivers side of the compartment), as well as the pedal linkage in the foot well...other than that, its mostly internal...and would involve removing the gearbox...

pilot bearing, release bearing, clutch disc/blade, pressure plate...or a bad 1st gear synchro/collar/shift fork (if you're positive it only happens in first gear)...but the only way to check any of that is at least taking the box off...

So to start: First check the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir. The clutch cylinder shares fluid with the brake system...but weirdly, the clutch cylinder draw fluid from the very top of it...just getting the brake fluid slightly low (way before you'd even get the brake light) can begin pulling in air...causing clutch disengagement problems...from what you listed, i'm leaning more towards a problem with the clutch being fully released...so, if you're positive the fluid level is fine (and also, are aware of the last time the fluid has been completely changed), move on...

does the transaxle shift into 1st gear ok? If you have trouble engaging first gear from a stop (clunks or grinds, or doesn't let you move the shifter fully into the gate), even with the clutch pedal fully pressed...and the above fluid levels check out...thats a sure sign of a dying release bearing...it'll usually be the most noticeable in first gear, as the ratio for first is extremely short...if the clutch disc isn't properly being 'released', its extremely tough on the 1st gear synchros to match the speed (hence the trouble selecting 1st, but not nearly as much with other gears once moving)...once engaged, the load from the car itself will usually cause it to slip enough that the car doesn't move, though...but with a bad release bearing, whats happening is the clutch is never being completely disengaged...if that makes sense...with this issue you'll often also have problems selecting reverse as well...

Second: Does the car ever pop out of 1st gear, once moving, if you suddenly let off the throttle? This could be caused by a number of things...shift fork problems, broken engine mounts, binding shift linkage, etc. A bad engine mount alone could cause some crazy shuddering, especially in lower gears...the stock mounts are extremely soft, and if even one gets torn up...its surprising the engine will even stay in the car...

have you changed your gear oil? that is a very often overlooked fluid for manual owners...it does last an extremely long time, as there isn't all that much heat inside a 3rd gens manual gear box...but it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it with some high quality stuff (only need 3 quarts) and see if that helps at all...will at least be the beginning of narrowing your issue down. I'd also suggest at least bleeding the clutch line...and if you've never serviced the brake system other than pad and rotor changes...replacing the entire system with fresh fluid...I went 150,000 miles with factory brake fluid...it came out looking like black coffee...

What's a good gear fluid to use? My dad is an old VW mechanic and says Redline mtl fixes all of their problems with matching the syncro matching in 1st gear & reverse, but is unsure of the effects on the Mazda.

Redline MT90 is probably the best to use in your car. I ran it when I was nearly stock and it worked great. Lots of others swear by it too.

If I let go the clutch too fast (or as I normally would on other cars) it sounds like the gear is grinding (I'm not completely sure, but it makes a DEG-DEG-DEG-DEG-DEG-DEG sound).

Click to expand...

I think I might have the same problem. I thought it might have been my rear engine mount, but replace it and sound/grind remained. I found out how to replicate the sound. Balilewis, does it make the same sound if you:

engage first and accelerate as usual, but shift to second at ~2200rpm, so that when you're in second, you're below 2000rpm. Now, while in second at this low RPM, engage full throttle. Do you hear the grinding sound as you pass ~1800RPM then disappears right away as it continues to rev? The best way to describe it is: it seems that something "resonates" at that certain RPM then stops immediately as it passes the RPM window. Also, this is more apparent when it's cold.

Could this still be a clutch problem? As the OP said, every other gear is pretty much smooth. and when I replicate the sound as above, the clutch is already fully engaged.