Timing belt

pcb said:

I checked the manual and it looks like you're next step is to remove the cam shaft. (other than removing the exhaust, but you're not removing the whole head).

Your either going to unscrew the cam gear bolt or the cam will start turning. (or you strip the bolt or your knuckles)

Click to expand...

i'm a little lost on what you're saying.

The cam shafts have a hex section so you can hold it in place with a box end wrench, while tightening or loosening the cam gear bolts...That hex section is good for making very slight position adjustments when putting the belt on, as well...its a whole lot easier than trying to move the cams by hand, if that is what you're saying...

Also, touching on a post from the first page...the tensioner has an allen key input (5mm iirc, but may be a little smaller)...that does nothing other than gives a torque angle to move it out of the way and reduce the springs compression on it...the spring can then be removed, and you can then easily remove the belt...in most cases, when doing the timing belt, you'll change the tensioner though too...

nothing on the head requires high torque...if you're using a shop manual and following the torque specs, you'll have zero worries of stripping anything.

and yeah, to clarify what was said earlier...the FS head does not have true cam 'bearings'...they ride on a machined surface (that gets oiled) on the head, that are capped off...I know this is all late, but just for future reference...

On the galled-up journal, makes me wonder what might have caused that? Is the valve area sludged? Does the journal have an oil feed that could be clogged? Just something to check while it's apart.

^true.