iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread

OK so I have started the long boring task of finding the information for the EGR tube that works with this header, Trigger wheel, and any information on getting this ECU to work with this car.

I wonder if I could find the fs-ze tube from somewhere, or maybe a probe tube would work. Any way can only take so much of looking at thousands of pointless posts.
 
Hey thanks. Bought a newer dremel and smoothed out the entrance to the headers and cut out some overlap in the inside of the header. Should help the motor breath a bit more evenly now.

However after tons and tons of research I have found that the in my situation I will only gain around 5hp with the new HCoversized pistons and ze ecu. Not even worth the time to do any of this. I would/should have just bought the valve seals left the bottom end together and kept on losing races. However that would suck. And this is a hobby. So I will continue forward with the extra work I am getting done on the motor, but now I will just have to get a stand alone. I guess a Microtech. That is the only way to unleash any mods done to the internals of the motor. LIKE ditching the ze cams for something more aggressive, Actual porting of the head, you know.... like with bench numbers not just a polish job from a vender that is not allowed to be on here any more, along with 3agl valve job, and the other bottom end goodies I have already mentioned. So unfortunately this will take a whole lot longer than I thought, and most definitely will not be able to race this year due to having to buy the Microtech and having to pay someone to tune it.
 
BTW the port entrances of this 4-2-1 header are of the size that matches the dark circles found on the OBX 4-1 header I took off. So now the new headers are not blocking off exhaust like the OBX did.

Now I need to find out if I need to keep the egr with the Microtech and if the VISS still will work.
 
I'll get you in touch with some of the australians for anything NA and stand alone related...they have it all down, and know their s***..

Also, turfburn still updates the Microtech EMS pages in the tuning section...and he can get you very detailed info on how to keep VICS working, how to handle emissions inspections, etc...

Like i said, i got in here a bit too late as far as the ZE ecu...you should have no problem selling that stuff on the probetalk forums, as a lot of the obd-I guys continue to look for them to run in parallel with US computers...The 3rd gen proteges in the US though; they never quite made a great home for a FS-ZE...

but, with a microtech...its not unlikely to push 10+ hp more at higher rpm than you would otherwise...with NO additional mods...We will be in the tuning boat together, bud...I'm hoping to have one before spring...and i'd like to get it tuned and understandable before i put in a built engine...

We kind of discussed this together in another thread recently...but for NA, the real thing you need immediate control over is rev limit...and only a full standalone is going to give that...with the 2.0L's geometry, you're only going to be looking at an additional 500 to 750 rpm...but with the right cams, it will drastically change the engines top end...
 
Yeah, I also was thinking of that too. I was going to (with better breathing cams) bring up the rev limit a touch. SO today I talked with the engine shop and it looks like I will be bringing the crank in to get it tuned in with the rest of the HC oversized pistons and old rods.

ON a side note along with my OS HC ZE pistons (that will be getting the skirts powder coated) Mazdamotorsports sent me pins (with the pistons as a kit) that where way way too short. I mean like 1/4 inch short. So it was a no brainier to bring in my crank. It wont fix the retarded rod ratio, but it can't hurt. This season is over even before it started. I guess I will hold off on buying new belts, rotors, tires, and suit, and take that money to the engine shop. It does look like they will be boring the block soon.

stay tuned for new pics......
 
I'm getting the "two week dance" now from the shop. Can't find anyone to sell twiggys. Was wondering is there anything else out there that can pump the same amount of flow as the twiggys?
 
^^have you contacted megacycle? Its a shop in California iirc, who bought all the specs from Integral when they went under...

Twiggy's are the originals...then Integral made a bunch of 'staged' cams, interestingly soon after they did a bunch of repairs on twiggys haha...then Megacycle bought all the shop specs from Integral...so its somewhere to start if you're having no luck with used parts...

I guess i should've mentioned...Twiggy's are very close in most ways to Integrals...the Twiggy exhaust cam is the radical one...fitting in with a Twiggy stage 2.5 iirc (i don't have the paperwork in front of me though)...the Intake twiggy is more aggressive than a J-spec ZE cam, but not quite as nuts as the exhaust...most saying its a little 'less than a stage 2' integral...

thats not the best way to compare all these though, anyway...A pair of twiggys is pretty mild on lift increase...and integrals go a slight bit higher in that regard...but Twiggy's have a huge amount of 'built in' overlap, the LSA is pretty intense...and Twiggy's also have a VERY steep ramp angle (especially the exhaust, which is why it needs to be shimmed)...making the valves open and close extremely quickly...which is especially useful at high rpm...

i'm not sure what cams you currently have...you could definitely look into some adjustable cam gears, and move your power band a little...which would give you a better idea of how aggressive you want to go with cam specs...but even proper cam gears will be hard to source, as to my knowledge only FocusMSP adjustable gears will work with stock triggering...you only need one for the exhaust cam, you can run any adjustable gear on the intake as there is no sensor...

look up Big Lou...I almost bought a gear from him, but then found my twiggys and the seller was including two new focusmsp gears with it...so i went that route...he may still be looking to sell it though, not sure...
 
Cool. It looks on the speedcircuit web page that their integrals exhaust cam is no different than my jdm exhaust cam. Well not much different. However their intake integral is quite a bit different. After trying to follow your build thread when you guys got into cam talk I found myself lost a bit.

I tried to get some photos of the head before they got the valves put back in, but i did not have a camera. I wanted to show that there is nothing left of the head. I will need some big cams to keep the air moving thought this head now.

I still will not be going any higher than 7200RPM. Also I need the power more in the mid section as I am road racing and that is the norm for my gear box. SO.... would it be best just to grab a intake cam only? I would like to get that focus cam gear so I can play with the overlap as that seems to get the best gains in a NA setting.

Thanks for the contacts. I will try and get a hold of both.
 
haha yeah don't feel bad about that mess in my thread...we were all lost for a while. Problem was a number of us had paperwork on multiple different cams, and nothing was lining up because we didn't have measurements at the same lift...so we had to cross reference everything and it took a lot of back and fourth...i'm confident now the last bit of info is close enough...

from my testing so far...I'm using torque pro and an abandoned strip of road near my office that is surprisingly flat...the android app lets me do a number of logs and i'm getting surprisingly consistent whp ratings...I still have yet to precisely measure the weight of my car with me in it and a full tank of gas; a very critical part of correlating acceleration times for whp ratings...but the consistency suggests that when i do get it weighed, the numbers will be very accurate...as of now i can hit 135whp below the limiter (i'm peaking at about 6600 rpm according to the app)...and with twiggys, no joke, its just pulling harder and harder the higher i go...but whats equally surprising, is what the adjustments seem to do to the numbers...

these engines don't tolerate big swings to the intake cam very much...at least with twiggy's...advancing the intake cam to introduce more overlap is pretty much a joke with the mp3 computer...low speed p0300's all day long, and an idle so lopey its almost cartoonish...but if i retard the intake 1 or 2 degrees on the gear (2 to 4 degree closing of crank measured overlap)...the magic starts...at that position, i can move the exhaust cam anywhere i want, and perfectly move the powerband...

i'll try to get you some jpeg's of my dyno logs...torque pro will log a dyno just as a 'real' one...by advancing the exhaust cam to close even more overlap, i get a huge bump in midrange power and torque...and by huge i'm saying enough to break tires loose on a rolling pull in 2nd gear once it rises up to 3800 rpm or so...thats partly due to my pretty seasoned tires, but enough that i couldn't really continue testing that (as in, when a tire looses traction, the whp test is worthless)...

retarding the exhaust cam...opposite...it'll safely move power right up towards redline...to the point where it'll sound like a different engine above 4800rpm...I was able to hit 139whp with the exhaust retarded about 3 degrees...that was as far as i've taken it so far...and again, don't worry about that actual number, its the differences between them that are pretty accurate...

so with all that in mind, i'd make the assumption you could similar move power around with just j-spec cams...albeit the changes won't make quite as a noticeable difference.
 
4 months. Time to repo the motor. I have been getting nothing but "two weeks" for a answerer from this guy for over two months. Found a shop one town over from my house and he said "two to three days".

Just a bit pissed off right now. Will continue to update with anything worth reading.

Bought another P5 to daily drive. Thinking about converting my truck into a camper with the money I will be saving driving the P5 instead of my out of date F250. Its got a shower, toilet, microwave, tv, a/c, heat, stove, oven, queen bed, slide out so my big ass 120lb dog can not run us over. Its a used high end truck camper that can add a great deal of fun to the race weekends. Or.... just sleep on the floor of the trailer and spend more on the car?????
 
using these as a reference. not mine. But I will post up mine when I get a sec.....
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ok here are mine.
pressed in old pins (the ones mazda sent with the new HC OS pistons where too short) with the old rods. Then main ends blueprinted. crankshaft was mildly polished, and entire rotating assembly balanced after powder-coating.
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powder coated the skirts to free up some horses (again found that the engines bad design was slamming them up against the cylinder wall).
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exhaust porting
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intake porting
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Three angle valve job
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blueprinting (seen below) with stress plate, boaring with stress plate, honeing upper cylinder with stress plate, and ring fitting with stress plate, decked, and new squirters.
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Indeed, always interesting to see how everyone's build always spirals out.

Hope the new engine works out well for you man, solid so far!
 
Oh god, these idiots gaped the rings up side down causing ring flutter. Should I gap the lowers even more to prevent that and have blow by or should I just keep it and pray for the best?
 
unfortunately they cannot fix them. They have already taken off too much material. If I where to run them (after I/they fixed the rings) they would be something like .021 top and .023 second. That might be fine if I was running boost or NO2. But again they had them right (a bit on the high side, but ok) just upside down. I mean our second ring is a napier style ring! They are supposedly super well know. If you are such a great engine shop how the hell do you put on a napier ring upside down on the top? s*** it does not even fit in the top groove of the piston. I hate when other people work on anything of mine.

SOOoooo I am thinking I will be making mild horsepower of 150whp and will be running n/a. I am thinking of .018 top and .020 second ring should be plenty for expansion. Especially when stock oem is .009 top and .011 second. And I have been running on that with no problems. Yes at lower horsepower but not much less.

Got new torque to yield bolts and a new torque matco wrench that torques accurately that low. Then I got a torque angle gauge. I tried the angle gauge out when checking the main journal oil clearance, and its not bad. $10 not bad. But what ever. Tolerances are just a bit under .002 which is the high side of stock. And that is what I want. It is for more room for the heavy high zinc racing oil I will be using.

More pics to come during assembly. The lost art of the 2.0!

P.S. no one sells manuals for this thing anymore!
 
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