I want to install a car-warmer in our CX-5, I'll probably go with the lil-buddy car warmer. I've used one every winter past 5 years in my older car with a timer control (block heater, car warmer, battery warmer). Anyone know the location of the rubber plug on the firewall?
CX-5 Firewall Plug
- Thread starter Dan PA
- Start date
So I had no idea what you were talking about, and now that I have googled it that thing sounds AWESOME! Sorry for the non-response response, but how long before you leave do you set the timer for in general? I assume it is off for most of the night and turns on a couple of hours before you leave to defrost/warm the car?
I did see this thread elsewhere that mentions a hole near the steering wheel
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?p=33875086
Another Edit: Have you used that one before or did you consider this one? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395513_200395513
I did see this thread elsewhere that mentions a hole near the steering wheel
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?p=33875086
Another Edit: Have you used that one before or did you consider this one? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395513_200395513
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I used this setup on my '97 legacy outback, would generally set it 3 to 4 hours before I had to start the car: never have to scrape your car windows and didn't have to let the car warm up as much. Very convenient, you can either setup the timer on the house or the car, depending on location. I'm not sure where I would put a timer on the cx-5.
Ask a tow bar fitter/auto electrician.
I'm a retired electrician and would advise against pushing metal coat hangers along side a wiring harness, you might find insulation damage as a consecuence, at least tape it up, and ideally you need to see the other side is clear.
I'm a retired electrician and would advise against pushing metal coat hangers along side a wiring harness, you might find insulation damage as a consecuence, at least tape it up, and ideally you need to see the other side is clear.
Yes i've done this probably a dozen times. xtrailman's concerns are legit. However it seems this needs more thorough explanation.
Once you got you coat hanger straight, you'll wanna bend the last inch of it around 180 degrees. That way your not pushing a sharp object threw. This also helps to wedge your wire into then using electrical tape, wrap it around the end a few times and in the middle of the rod as well.
Basically, your just stiffening the wire with something. Bend the end and tape it up. You can also bend the coat hanger in half for double strength. Its not a bad idea to make a small starter slit if there's space next to the wire bundle were it comes in and goes out.
If this still makes you nervous then you just need to seek professional assistance.
Once you got you coat hanger straight, you'll wanna bend the last inch of it around 180 degrees. That way your not pushing a sharp object threw. This also helps to wedge your wire into then using electrical tape, wrap it around the end a few times and in the middle of the rod as well.
Basically, your just stiffening the wire with something. Bend the end and tape it up. You can also bend the coat hanger in half for double strength. Its not a bad idea to make a small starter slit if there's space next to the wire bundle were it comes in and goes out.
If this still makes you nervous then you just need to seek professional assistance.
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- Mazdaspeed6
If you tape up a hanger, and are careful, you can do this without incident.
However, this type of thing here is why they make fiberglass fish tape and fish sticks. Metallic isn't ideal. XD
Just remember, any damage to wire insulation in the harness that passes through the grommet/ firewall is an unimaginable nightmare. Good luck!
However, this type of thing here is why they make fiberglass fish tape and fish sticks. Metallic isn't ideal. XD
Just remember, any damage to wire insulation in the harness that passes through the grommet/ firewall is an unimaginable nightmare. Good luck!
BacklashZ06
Member
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- Mazda Cx-5
I just ran a power line for a subwoofer through here basically following the instructions below. Unlike most of cars, this hole is very large as you indicate and there is a good 1/2 inch all around the bundle. If you take care, it is quite easy and you will not damage the bundle. If this still of concern to you, the best place to drill through the firewall is right next to this bundle, easy to see both sides (free and clear), which I was going to do before looking closely at the bundle on the inside of the car - cut the tape around the gasket to open it up.
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