Suspension Clunk - Left Front (2010 Mazda5)

Thanks for the info and pics! Feeling better about finally doin this job also. Its so cold now the clunking on min lasts all day.
 
@m5carl Excellent idea unhooking the sway bar on both sides to rotate out of the way. I recommend using a 14mm ring wrench along with a 6mm allen key to remove the nut where the ball joint on the sway bar link attaches to the struts on both sides.
 
Last edited:
Looking to replace my bushings as well (front and rear). Is there specific torque specs when tightening those bolts that hold the bushing bracket?
 
Torque for bushing brackets

About the torque, I used 35 ft-lbf (Mazda recommends between 29.8-39.7 ft-lbf)
I took this info from page 6 of a service bulletin by Mazda about this problem. Attached is the bulletin. Just, use it as a reference for issues such as torque, greasing, etc. I would not follow their method to replace the front bushings since it is considerably more complicated than what I did. The method to replace the rear bushings seems ok, but I have not replaced mine because they are still good.
Good luck.

This is an update two years after this first post. I changed the rear bushings about a month ago. Used the same type of bushings that I used for the front. The old ones were also cracked and noise was beginning to bother me. I also changed rear shocks because one of them was starting to leak. The front bushings have worked well for two years but I believe they may be starting to wear off because in very cold days (and we have had cold days this winter) I'm starting to hear a familiar noise. They will survive this winter and summer won't be a problem. Not sure about the next though. I'll keep updating.
 

Attachments

  • TSB-1.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 811
Last edited:
I am doing this on my wife's '08 Mazda5 tomorrow. The noise is just driving me crazy. I am thinking about installing Energy Suspension bushings to see if they'll be more durable. Living in SoCal we don't have conditions conducive to squeaking and I never had an issue with my cars that had all of the bushings replaced with ES parts. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
I get a squeak/creak going over speed bumps on my 2012 Mazda5, but doesn't bother me. I have other pressing issues like the steering vibration, going to swap out the factory 17's for MS3 18's and new rubber, we'll see what happens.
 
According to everyone local including Energy Suspension themselves the bushings for a 23mm sway bar are on back order for 2 or 3 weeks. Either I find someone who has some in stock or go with OEM. The factory bushings are $13 each and the Moog aftermarket units are $5 each. Has anyone compared the two to see if the Moogs are based on the updated part?

Edit: plenty on eBay and amazon. I'm probably going to buy the 9.5115G bushings. Is that what people are using? 23mm with the wider brackets.
 
Last edited:
This is the link to the bushings I bought: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/BUSH,STABILIZER%2dFRT-(CC29%2d34%2d156C).html
They are not performance parts but they look a lot better than the original ones I removed.
Good luck

This is an update two years after this first post. I changed the rear bushings about a month ago. Used the same type of bushings that I used for the front (same store). The old ones were also cracked and noise was beginning to bother me. I also changed rear shocks because one of them was starting to leak. The front bushings have worked well for two years but I believe they may be starting to wear off because in very cold days (and we have had cold days this winter) I'm starting to hear a familiar noise. They will survive this winter and summer won't be a problem. Not sure about the next though. I'll keep updating.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the link, that looks like the OEM part. I'm having trouble finding those ES bushings so it's either Moog or OEM at this point. With shipping the Rockauto parts are only $6 less than buying at the local stealership.
 
@bluesideup I got the OEMs from Montgomery Mazda, DBA onlinemazdaparts.com $48 for 4 including shipping
seems to be a different material than what came with my pair of 2006 Mazda 5s
 
Last edited:
Picked up a pair of OEM bushings for both front and rear from a local Mazda dealership for $32.00 total. They are almost always willing to match online prices...
 
I finally replaced the sway bar bushings to my Mazda 5 this weekend! Even though I knew the problem was not critical, the noise had become unbearable and I got tired of explaining to everyone riding with me that we were not going to lose a wheel and die in a crash. I did exactly what "el toro" said although I worked both sides before installing back the wheels. If I may add something that eased things up a lot was loosening the sway bar from the links on both sides to gain better access to the bracket holding the bushing by rotating the sway bar out of the way (the rear bolts were easier to remove with the sway bar arm all the way up and the front bolts with the bar down). The old bushings were worn and cracked. I noticed that the new bushings have an additional core of either plastic/nylon or similar, which I hope will reduce wear more than direct contact of the bar with the rubber. I used white lithium grease for coating the interior of the bushings. I am attaching a couple of pics of the replacement bushings. Problem gone, rides like new. I hope this fix lasts more than a few thousand miles.


Followed the post by these guys and was able to tackle the job. I'll add something that made it a little easier for me...Other than the use of a combinatin of U-joint socket and extension, I used an open end wrench on the rear bolt to help loosen and tighten the bolt a lot easier. Test drove it right after I replaced the bushings, and I was pleased that the clunking sound was gone. And yes it feels like a new car without the annoying clunky noise. Attached pic shows the new bushing (left), next to the old one (right). Notice the new design; cut out on the side, thicker piping with extra waxy surface, also the new bushing feels more tougher and rigid than the old one that I pulled out which was very flimsy and soft. No wonder the FSB was making contact with cross member, the old bushing was too weak to hold down the FSB...


attachment.php
 
Followed the post by these guys and was able to tackle the job. I'll add something that made it a little easier for me...Other than the use of a combinatin of U-joint socket and extension, I used an open end wrench on the rear bolt to help loosen and tighten the bolt a lot easier. Test drove it right after I replaced the bushings, and I was pleased that the clunking sound was gone. And yes it feels like a new car without the annoying clunky noise. Attached pic shows the new bushing (left), next to the old one (right). Notice the new design; cut out on the side, thicker piping with extra waxy surface, also the new bushing feels more tougher and rigid than the old one that I pulled out which was very flimsy and soft. No wonder the FSB was making contact with cross member, the old bushing was too weak to hold down the FSB...
Any reason why you went with OE replacements? Are there aftermarket options? If possible, I would look into aftermarket bushing that also come with a larger bracket.

I do not have faith in Mazda parts durability. IMO, they work great for a short period of time but are not built to last without maintenance.
 
From my reading on the intertubes, it appears that there are after market bushings, but they are poly which I believe are higher maintenance since they need to be lubed. In addition, they usually transmit more noise and vibration since they are harder for performance. See http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-suspension-handling-stiffening/206293-bushings-rubber-vs-polyurethane.html I'd also like to hear first hand long term experiences, since I'm starting to hear some bushing noise (I assume) @~70k miles.

Any reason why you went with OE replacements? Are there aftermarket options? If possible, I would look into aftermarket bushing that also come with a larger bracket.

I do not have faith in Mazda parts durability. IMO, they work great for a short period of time but are not built to last without maintenance.
 
From my reading on the intertubes, it appears that there are after market bushings, but they are poly which I believe are higher maintenance since they need to be lubed. In addition, they usually transmit more noise and vibration since they are harder for performance. See http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-suspension-handling-stiffening/206293-bushings-rubber-vs-polyurethane.html I'd also like to hear first hand long term experiences, since I'm starting to hear some bushing noise (I assume) @~70k miles.
Hmm. I wonder if weather has any play in the OE bushing durability..? Both the front and rear on my previous '08 was shot by ~32K and made TERRIBLE clunks. My current ‘08 also had reports of bushing replacement (not sure if front/rear but documented on the service history) at ~30K. I'm just thankful it has no noise right now :). If your ’06 is only experiencing bushing noise now, then this bring up an interesting point. I wonder if those who have clunks are primarily 4 season owners.

Does Moog or someone else offer a rubber replacement? Replacement’s don’t have to be ploy but even with that there are mix composition ploys that work very well but yes they do need more maintenance than rubber but not 100% maintenance free either; it’s all part of the trade-off.


IIRC, the FSB is 23MM. I would try the Moog thermoplastic long before I go back to OE bushings... Granted j3nsmz5 does seem to say the new bushings are better quality all around. Still, the Moog is a lot cheaper at 1/3 of the cost.
http://moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K90398
 
Last edited:
My understanding is that the bushing noise gets bad if it is cold (below freezing). As I recall, the initial reports on bushing noise occurred with it was really cold. I don't get much of that here in Southern CA - haven't been skiing in a while. Probably the temperature cycling and salty roads don't help either.
 
My 06 has lived its entire life in the mid-atlantic and both ends are-a-clunkin like mad! I'm going to replace with newer OEM bushings and see what that gets me. If the OE bushings die early, I'll switch to poly and grin and bear the extra NVH.
 
Any reason why you went with OE replacements? Are there aftermarket options? If possible, I would look into aftermarket bushing that also come with a larger bracket.

I do not have faith in Mazda parts durability. IMO, they work great for a short period of time but are not built to last without maintenance.

One of the main reason for me is proper fitment. And like other's opinion on aftermkt types, it requires re-lubing of the bushing..something I don't want to have to do over and over again, especially the FSB bushing. IMO, from what it looks like, the new OEM design is solid and most likely will last a long time. I think OEM learn from their own mistakes as their parts fail, they re-design their product and make it more superior than the previous one. I say this b/c I've had OE parts fail and have had replacements that were re-designed and has lasted for as long as I've own the vehicle..
 
Last edited:
Back