Installing 8" Speakers in Mazda CX-5

I moved the sub into the trunk and the bass sounds deeper. There's no doubt this sub would do well in the CX-5 considering bass frequencies would bounce off the rear hatch glass. If you guys want to add a bass woofer for around $100, take up very little space, and sound good consider the Pioneer TSSWX2502 on your list.
 
Mine is a bit more expensive, but it doesn't take up any space in the trunk, spare wheel is still in place and it hits hard as well.
$200 speaker(JL Audio 10TW3-D4), $12 MDF board, two ratchet straps and a wire connector. $40 broken Polk Audio PA880 amp, that I have repaired for a couple of bucks.
 
Mine is a bit more expensive, but it doesn't take up any space in the trunk, spare wheel is still in place and it hits hard as well.
$200 speaker(JL Audio 10TW3-D4), $12 MDF board, two ratchet straps and a wire connector. $40 broken Polk Audio PA880 amp, that I have repaired for a couple of bucks.
I saw your setup in spare tire area. I think yours looks a little "odd" (sorry don't have a better term) but I have no doubt the bass is great!
 
I moved the sub into the trunk and the bass sounds deeper. There's no doubt this sub would do well in the CX-5 considering bass frequencies would bounce off the rear hatch glass. If you guys want to add a bass woofer for around $100, take up very little space, and sound good consider the Pioneer TSSWX2502 on your list.
Thanks for sharing the pictures. I think this Pioneer sub-woofer box is a good choice for you and the bass sound should be greatly improved for your Bose system. I just wish Mazda didn't eliminate two tweeters from CX-5 which was recommended by Bose and survived in Mazda6. You have both and if I were you, I would disappointed seeing those nice features, such as memory seat, rear AC vents, Bose dash 1" tweeters, courtesy lights. glove compartment light, dash storage box door/cover, dead pedal cover, etc. are available in Mazda6 but missing in CX-5.
 
I did not go for great looks, just for the sound. When I close the lid, it is all covered anyway. I had to add the 2x4s and some other pieces to raise the lid. The speaker height and the excursion of the speaker, needed more headroom.
 
So, did you install the Lanzer 8" speakers and the speaker cups without having to use any mdf template? How did you go about installing these to the doors? And finally, are you guys just cutting the factory speaker clip harness off and wiring directly to the new speakers with some electrical connectors?

Plug Metra 72-5602 into door speakers then into CX-5 speaker harness, 4 pins for separates if coaxial speakers you jumper 2 of the pins.
http://www.metraonline.com/files/products/INST72-5602_web.pdf
http://www.metraonline.com/part/72-5602
 
Planning on putting some 8" mid-bass speakers in the front doors, and I would like to figure the maximum "width" of MDF I can use for the speaker mount to be able to pull the speaker away from the window, but not so far that it hits the door panel. I would like to thank the O.P. for the pics.(2thumbs)

Upon researching the available 8" mid-bass speakers (in my budget....), I'm seeing top mount depths range from 2.6" to close to 4". I was wondering if anyone still had their old factory speakers to measure the distance noted in the pic below. (and if this distance is uniform all around the speaker, or is it shallower at one side with the speaker sitting "tilted". If it is tilted, what is the minimum measurement?) If we're at 2 3/4" between the metal door frame and the window + say 1 1/2 of speaker mount, I'd feel comfortable with a speaker approaching 4" deep, but w/o knowing the depth of the factory speaker mount, I don't want to order speakers that are too deep.

SpeakerBracketSize_zps09394669.jpg

http://www.atlantamazdaparts.com/p/Mazda__CX-5/BRACKET--JOINT---SPEAKER-DUCT/42646433/KD4566A61.html

Speaker bracket KD4566A61 in the picture bracket 66-A64 used for speaker 99660M 9" Rear speaker KD4566A60 $164.40

Possible to install aftermarket 8" speaker in front and rear doors with speaker bracket KD4566A61?
 
The thing to remember about sub bass is that there is a distance variable to each speaker, its size, and it's box.... For example you see people putting 15" woofers into cars... they produce heart stopping bass within the car, but their optimum sound distance is about 20 feet far beyond the outside of the car.... the sound is generally omni-directional,
so sub placement within the car is very important...
 
The Dayton's are exactly what I am going to use... thank you... Going 3 way with 8s in the doors, 3.5" mids in the dash, and flushing Polk tweeters in the doors.
Will the 8s fit in the back doors as well ?
 
The Dayton's are exactly what I am going to use... thank you... Going 3 way with 8s in the doors, 3.5" mids in the dash, and flushing Polk tweeters in the doors.
Will the 8s fit in the back doors as well ?
Compare two pictures of front door and rear door speakers, we can see the speaker hole in the rear door seems smaller than front door. I doubt you can fit a 8" speaker in that hole of the rear door.

5" full-range speaker in CX-5's rear door:
2014%252520Mazda6%252520Bose%2525205.25-inch%252520%25252813.5cm%252529%252520Wide-Range%252520%252520Speaker%252520Rear%252520Door_20130415.jpg
 
Hi everyone,

I have a 2014 CX-5 GT with the Bose audio system. My front passenger door speaker's diaphragm has torn and now it sounds like there is something rattling in the door whenever there are bass tones.
Dealer will replace the one speaker for $360+tax and install (CAD)!

Does anyone have any recommendation on a quick and easy replacement for this? I can do just the passenger door, or both passenger and driver doors (since it will probably fail soon too).
 
Hi everyone,
I have a 2014 CX-5 GT with the Bose audio system. My front passenger door speaker's diaphragm has torn and now it sounds like there is something rattling in the door whenever there are bass tones.
Dealer will replace the one speaker for $360+tax and install (CAD)!
Does anyone have any recommendation on a quick and easy replacement for this? I can do just the passenger door, or both passenger and driver doors (since it will probably fail soon too).

I am in the same situation with my wife's daily driver on her 2013 cx5 GT - Both driver and passenger door are torn.

I am very tempted to give something like this a try, but with the plug in area so "unique" on the cx5 i do not think it will be as seamless as the masda 3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2LQWzRVo-c

food for thought at this time.

Goodluck!
 
I am in the same situation with my wife's daily driver on her 2013 cx5 GT - Both driver and passenger door are torn.
I am very tempted to give something like this a try, but with the plug in area so "unique" on the cx5 i do not think it will be as seamless as the masda 3.

If your concern is that you dont want to cut the wires in car harness to plug the new speaker, you can tear apart the old speaker (which is already broken), take the connector and solder it to the wires of the new speaker. That is what I did.

ISS200-5.jpg
 
Good day tobeychris and EEvans, did you come up with a fix? I have the same thing happening where it rattles like crazy with the radio on but strangely enough I don't notice it as often with MP3's. I think it is the front passenger door and centre dash speaker that is causing the problem.
 
Good day tobeychris and EEvans, did you come up with a fix? I have the same thing happening where it rattles like crazy with the radio on but strangely enough I don't notice it as often with MP3's. I think it is the front passenger door and centre dash speaker that is causing the problem.
There's a TSB concerning corrosion problem which causes the damper coming off Bose 9" Nd woofer door speaker frame and unusual noise. I successfully persuaded my dealer replaced 9" Bose woofers with revised version from some minor noise under warranty.
 
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