Installing 8" Speakers in Mazda CX-5

mclark999

Member
:
2013 CX-5 Sport AWD Automatic
I'm going to start with an apology. I got glue on my hands in the middle of the project and forgot to keep taking pictures. A few people have asked how the 8" round speakers fit in the front doors. This will provide some of the install.

The first picture is the stock speaker with large frame. You'll use the frame as a template for an mdf spacer.

The stock opening is big enough, but when you wire up the speakers, make sure none of the wiring is against the sheet metal edges. I missed that on the first one and was getting a short and then I got glue/caulking all over my hands taking it back out and redoing it.

You can see from the tape measure you have about 2 and 3/4" depth. The mdf is almost 3/4", so your speaker can have about a maximum 3 and 1/4" depth. This is measured with the window down.

Use 3/4" high density mdf and use the speaker frame to draw your outline.

You'll use your new speaker templates to draw the inner circle. I used a jigsaw to do the cutting. Sorry I have no more pictures.

Once you cut out the mdf, you'll screw it to the door using some good size sheetmetal screws in the stock locations. Put caulking between the mdf and the door panel to seal it. Then use whatever screws come with your new speakers to screw them to the mdf. If the screws are longer than 3/4", you'll have to buy shorter ones. I also caulked the speaker to mdf to seal it well.

The sound results are great. Big deep bass and plenty of mid and treble if you use three way. The bass is so strong that I recommend you put midrange/treble in the dash to compensate. Remember to use some sound deadening on the door panel while you have it open. Around 25% coverage is usually enough.
 

Attachments

  • P1050561.JPG
    P1050561.JPG
    377.3 KB · Views: 11,359
  • P1050562.JPG
    P1050562.JPG
    177.3 KB · Views: 4,069
  • P1050563.JPG
    P1050563.JPG
    307.9 KB · Views: 3,155
  • P1050564.JPG
    P1050564.JPG
    402.5 KB · Views: 2,966
  • P1050565.JPG
    P1050565.JPG
    442.1 KB · Views: 2,843
So you don't recommend a sub with 8 inch speakers on the front? I have installed the 8s on the front and was thinking to order a kicker hideaway sub witch it's an 8 sub hoping to get some real low bass missing from the doors.
 
So you don't recommend a sub with 8 inch speakers on the front? I have installed the 8s on the front and was thinking to order a kicker hideaway sub witch it's an 8 sub hoping to get some real low bass missing from the doors.

On my Xb, which I had the 8" speakers installed in the rear quarter panel, I did a very involved test with a really good adjustable powered Klipsch subwoofer. What I found was it added substantial fill for electronica or new pop that I played from a digital source. It added nothing worthwhile for rock and roll or anything played from the radio itself.

The bass on the 8" with the door sealed and sound deadened is strong and very deep. I'm hearing bass in songs that I never heard before.
 
mclark999, did you by chance measure the size of the front door speaker opening. I was wondering if I can use your MDF "adapter" trick, but instead of 8" round speaker I put 9x6" one.
 
I installed the Lanzar VX830 speakers in the my front doors as described in this thread, only I also added the foam speaker "cups" linked to above.

The sound is much improved - clearer and tighter bass. I was surprised at how balanced the sound was between the door speakers and the dash tweeters. I'm planning on using/listening to the system as is for a while before deciding to upgrade the tweeters to Polk DB351s and an Alpine KTP-445U add-on amp.
 
How well does the Bose Amp handle the higher impedance speakers and the overall sound balance in the car? The Bose speakers are notably much lower impedance that normal speakers.
 
The Bose amplifier will handle higher impedance speakers without problems. The higher "load" means the amplifier will deliver less electrical current, rather than more. It's only when a speaker with an impedance lower than what the amplifier is designed for is paired with that amp that problems can arise. The drawback is that the higher impedance speaker will draw less power from the amp. If the replacement speaker is 3dB more efficient than the Bose speaker it replaces, then the sound level will be the same.

In the case of the CX5 Bose system, the 3.5" speakers (dash and D-pillar) and the 5.25" (rear door) are effectively 4-ohm, which is the same as standard aftermarket speakers. One could replace them and use the Bose amplifier without any worries from an electrical standpoint. They may be mismatched from a level (sound output) standpoint and either be louder or quieter than the 8" door woofers. Since they door woofer and dash speakers are designed to work together, this could be a concern.

The front door 8" mid-woofer speakers are 2-ohm. What I mentioned above applies. But the Bose amplifier has filtering that limits the frequency "window" the speaker plays (up to around 400Hz), so replacing them with, for example, coaxial speakers will mean the replacement speaker will play that same "window". To have the replacement door speaker play full range, the Bose amp would need to be replaced with an aftermarket model.
 
Last edited:
Planning on putting some 8" mid-bass speakers in the front doors, and I would like to figure the maximum "width" of MDF I can use for the speaker mount to be able to pull the speaker away from the window, but not so far that it hits the door panel. I would like to thank the O.P. for the pics.(2thumbs)

Upon researching the available 8" mid-bass speakers (in my budget....), I'm seeing top mount depths range from 2.6" to close to 4". I was wondering if anyone still had their old factory speakers to measure the distance noted in the pic below. (and if this distance is uniform all around the speaker, or is it shallower at one side with the speaker sitting "tilted". If it is tilted, what is the minimum measurement?) If we're at 2 3/4" between the metal door frame and the window + say 1 1/2 of speaker mount, I'd feel comfortable with a speaker approaching 4" deep, but w/o knowing the depth of the factory speaker mount, I don't want to order speakers that are too deep.

I haven't had my door panel off yet, or I could measure it myself, but I'd rather not take the panel off and on any more times than necessary, especially since it's below freezing here in MI already...

Any info would be appreciated.(guitar)

SpeakerBracketSize_zps09394669.jpg
 
I've only had my CX-5 for about 36 hours, so I haven't done anything to it yet. But I plan on putting in 8" midbass speakers in the front doors, and put in a pair of 3 1/2 Pioneer 2 way's in the dash I pulled out of my oil burning 2014 Subaru forester before I traded it in on the CX.

I am assuming I will eventually need an amp, but for now I'm just going to power it with the stock H.U. I do have a N.I.B. Pioneer GM-D8604 I recently purchased to put in my wife's MX-5 this winter, but we're not going to drive it till spring anyways.....;)
 
Last edited:
I installed the Lanzar VX830 speakers in the my front doors as described in this thread, only I also added the foam speaker "cups" linked to above.

The sound is much improved - clearer and tighter bass. I was surprised at how balanced the sound was between the door speakers and the dash tweeters. I'm planning on using/listening to the system as is for a while before deciding to upgrade the tweeters to Polk DB351s and an Alpine KTP-445U add-on amp.

So, did you install the Lanzer 8" speakers and the speaker cups without having to use any mdf template? How did you go about installing these to the doors? And finally, are you guys just cutting the factory speaker clip harness off and wiring directly to the new speakers with some electrical connectors?
 
So, did you install the Lanzer 8" speakers and the speaker cups without having to use any mdf template? How did you go about installing these to the doors? And finally, are you guys just cutting the factory speaker clip harness off and wiring directly to the new speakers with some electrical connectors?
No, I made an MDF template as described elsewhere, attached using longer bolts/screws (cant remember which) in the holes the original speakers used. For wiring I soldered spade connectors to the wires that then were pushed onto the speaker contacts.
 
Thanks guys. One final thing...with these 8" Lanzers installed, does it make a noticeable difference in the bass? The stock speakers aren't horrible, but they're not great. How much impact in the base do these have? Looking for a much deeper, cleaner bass than the Bose stock system.
 
Back