Protege5 turbo

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protege5
Hey guys [and girls], I've got a protege5 and recently aquired a mazdaspeed protege turbo kit. The headers, intercooler, MBSP, the gt25, etc. I wanted to upgrade to a FMIC since the stock one is easily heat soaked. I also have the ecu and harness from the mazdaspeed. I was wondering what type of FMIC bolted up easily without a lot of modification, would an eBay generic type work? I was also wondering if the Mazda speed protege harness and the protege5 harness were the same considering they're the same motors minus the turbo? Any advice would be appreciated. I'm sure someone has an entire write up on this, I'm just not looking in the right places. Thanks!
 
With an ebay fmic you have to do all the pipe cutting yourself, its not that hard though. It took me a few hours to route and cut everything
 
you don't need to rebuild the motor unless you plan on making big power. Get something to tune with like the SSAFC like stated eariler. You can never go wrong with an upgraded clutch and a LSD is definitely an upgrade, I would look into a Mfactory LSD. The MSP diff sucks.
 
Yeah that sounds about right man, anything more and you'd have to upgrade your engine. I would probably go ahead and look into an aftermarket tune cuz like IshsonP5 said, the stock MSP ECU has a really crappy tune. Essentially with the stock tune, your car will run piss rich. You can prolly run it with the MSP ECU while you're looking into an aftermarket tune but I wouldn't just stop at the ECU.
 
How many psi do you think I can safely run at stock internals? The factory is 6-8psi right?

I am running 8 right now on stock internals. But be safe, you should get a clutch that can handle more torque. And work your way up from there into diff's and all that. Like stated by spiced. or go all out and never worry about it again, if you have the monies (2cents)
 
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By any chance do you know where i can score the extended threading for my oil cooler/filter? the guy I bought the kit from forgot to remove his old one so Im SOL right now.
 
im wondering the same thing.. are they the same? and how much power can the fsde handle on stock internals?
 
all 01-03 proteges have the same injectors, two purple and two green. As far as power goes, it all depends on how solid your tune is and the current condition of the motor itself. Im running 10 psi with a slightly tweaked supermap on a SSAFC(car is currently not running right at the moment though). Some have run 12-14 psi, one on stock and another on a t28 on stock internals, but they had a solid tune and used water/meth injection.
 
all 01-03 proteges have the same injectors, two purple and two green. As far as power goes, it all depends on how solid your tune is and the current condition of the motor itself. Im running 10 psi with a slightly tweaked supermap on a SSAFC(car is currently not running right at the moment though). Some have run 12-14 psi, one on stock and another on a t28 on stock internals, but they had a solid tune and used water/meth injection.

I ran 17psi! FACE! Take that! Did I mention that it was unintentional and only lasted about 10 seconds? LAWLZ.
 
hmm So I got a good question for you guys how much Horsepower would you recommend for stock gears
 
If you're on a stock open diff (from a P5, read: haha) or the 'newer' MSP diff (not the recalled unit)...gears and box will hold fine with a better clutch, up to 275-300whp if you're not too hard on it...thats more than the bottom end will without VERY careful tuning...

The bottom end is what you'll want to pay the most attention to...There is no magic power number...or magic boost number...that is a give away for a grenade...but a combination of the two, and mostly dependent on the tuning. Despite what you'll read, the stock connecting rods are short and relatively strong...the pistons themselves have nice deep compression rings too...so the engine is relatively good at handling a little detonation...but its heat wash, imo, that is the killer. The stock assembly uses press fit wrist pins for the connecting rods. That in itself is common, and not a huge deal...but the pistons seem to not hold up to prolonged heat very well...the oil rings and drains are easily clogged without frequent oil changes, reducing piston cooling, and some outer pin lubrication...the pistons will swell considerably under higher temps, clamp on the wrist pin...and with pressed pins, that just removed any articulation between the small end and the piston...and you'll do any number of bad things to the engine...bend a rod, break/spin/eat a big end rod bearing...destroy the crank bearings (if the rod holds)/cradle...etc...

its a temperature problem...not a power problem...but those are directly related...so things to not skimp on if you are using the stock bottom end is oil cooling and tuning...running a little richer will hurt peak power, but will keep things a little cooler...meth injection can be used for the same thing. But when done right, the assembly will hold fine for 250 to 275whp with a complete stand alone properly tuned and guarantees on accurate oil temp readings..as well as water temp...before you'll need to worry about the gear box...but its safer, easier, and somewhat cheaper to just rebuild the bottom end with floating wrist pins, fully forged pistons and con rods...than babysitting the tune every second when driving hard...the built assembly's will put up with WAY more temp problems than the stock stuff will...
 
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That's some good info. I will definitely be keeping that in mind as I do some more to my car this winter.
 
So i've completed my built rebuilt the car fully forged lower end and a bunch of other upgrades but still wondering I'm not using the stock LSD got the Mfactory LSD so I'm hopping my transmission wont fall apart
 
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