2010 Mazda 3i 2.0L clutch replacement.

Alright, so check this out. Yes I am a new owner of a standard transmission (5 speed Mazda3, 2010). It is my first standard, but I learned very quickly, I don't ride the clutch and I also don't drive it very hard. Here is my problem:

Car: 25k miles, 2 owners (one before me), and the clutch needs to be replaced. Dealership wants $800 just to DIAGNOSE the problem, not including labor and parts to install, they refuse to do anything under warranty as "clutch is a wear and tear item".

When I have the clutch to the floor, sometimes when I shift from neutral to first gear (or any gear) it will stop half way. Now if I continue to keep a little bit of pressure (maybe a half pound or so) it will eventually "work its way into gear". With reverse, it's a little different, when I'm at a stop and I put it into reverse, sometimes it won't go all the way into gear. If I let the clutch up maybe 1 inch from the floor (if that), it will pop right into reverse.

Now after doing a bunch of reasearch, I've noticed people having very similar problems to me. The stock clutch is very weak along with the pressure plate (now that is just my conclusion), please let me know if that is just a normal "standard" transmission thing or if it is something I need to get replaced.

Now my question is, would it be worth replacing the clutch with a $600 aftermarket clutch (I know mechanics who will do this for me), or should I stick with OEM, I just don't want to have this same issue happen again. If you recommend aftermarket, could I get some links and some ideas. I found one for a 2010 2.3l turbo mazda3, will that work with my car?

If the clutch is truly worn out at 25K miles, I'm suspect that this car has been abused, or very badly driven and cared for. If the clutch is worn, I would expect it to slip under power when you do shift. If it is making shifting difficult as you describe, I'd think that it is not disengaging. That speaks of an adjustment issue, not a worn out clutch pack and pressure plate. How worn are the tires? Is the clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid up to the full line? If not, fill it and pump the clutch pedal until the tank stays full. Is there fluid leaking from the clutch master cylinder? If so, all you may need is to have the master cylinder rebuilt or replaced. Also, check the slave cylinder down at the bell housing for leakage, if possible. That may hold off on the expensive replacement for awhile. I don't see anything in the OM on adjusting the clutch, but there may be an adjustment down at the bell housing. More than likely, it is self adjusting like other hydraulic clutches.

If you have a competent independent mechanic that can do the job and give you a warranty for the work, I'd be looking at aftermarket parts with the option of upgrading to something that is better than OEM if you plan to keep the car awhile. A good independent mechanic should give you all of the options and prices before you commit. My independent mech. will always discuss the options and often gives free advice on what can be done, rather than hit you up for the most expensive repair out of the chute. He might be a tad more expensive than some, but I trust him and he stands by his work. That sort of attitude indicates an knowing and honest shop. You don't find many of them these days, but when you do, hang on to them.

I have a '97 Civic that started shifting really hard. Dealer wanted $4K for a new transmission or $400 for new solenoid valves that might fix the problem. Took it to my independent shop. After describing the problem, the first question he had was to ask if synthetic ATF had been put in the transmission. I told him it had. He said Hondas can't handle synthetic ATF. Told me to go to the dealer and buy 8 quarts of Honda ATF, drain the transaxle and put in 4 quarts. Then drive it for 3K miles and repeat the drain/fill. It fixed the problem and cost me about $50. He didn't charge me a thing, but I go back when I can't do the work myself.

Note to the OP: what did you do with the clutch? Just curious.