2008 Mazda Speed 3 Full Bolt Ons Hp?

I have a 2008 MazdaSpeed 3 Cosmetic Blue 52k miles on it, just got it a couple months ago with 48k on it.

There was no mods done to it, I'm not loaded with money so I'm slowly adding to it. So far I have a Cobb SRI and Turbosmart SU Bypass Valve, and I installed a Defi Boost Gauge in my drivers side vent with the VentPod.

I just wanted to know how much horsepower on average would I have with full bolt ons and a Cobb AP?

I'm also going to get a CorkSport Turbo Back Exhaust in the next month or two yay!

not sure on the power aspect, I'm sure some others might have done similar mobs. I would imagine, easily, in the 310+ WHP range but don't quote me on that. It will sound like it runs on baby seal blood and whiskey, so take it for what it's worth. A+

ROTAg said:

not sure on the power aspect, I'm sure some others might have done similar mobs. I would imagine, easily, in the 310+ WHP range but don't quote me on that. It will sound like it runs on baby seal blood and whiskey, so take it for what it's worth. A+

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Best thing i have read all day. lol yeah my buddies with gen2 are at about 300 with not even all the boltons. You could probably skip the exhaust and put the money into other stuff but just remember fuel pump internals before downpipe.

DuoofDeath1 said:

Best thing i have read all day. lol yeah my buddies with gen2 are at about 300 with not even all the boltons. You could probably skip the exhaust and put the money into other stuff but just remember fuel pump internals before downpipe.

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Why do I need fuel pump internals first? I've never heard that before. I'm new to this sorry if I sound like an idiot.

An engine that has less restrictions (I.E. high flow exhaust, more direct cold air intake, polished inter-cooler hard-piping) will cause your boost to scale with the higher volume of air entering the combustion chamber. The only thing that won't scale is your factory fuel settings and with the big step in power you will notice you aren't getting enough fuel into the air mixture. The lean air mixture isn't a great thing for engines because the higher percentage of O2 in the chamber increases the LEL (lower explosive limit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flammability_limit) In layman's terms, the fuel mixture is saturated with more o2 than necessary, making it more unstable, and early detonation may occur (say bye bye sensitive internals)

ctrl-c this consider yourself scienced

ROTAg said:

An engine that has less restrictions (I.E. high flow exhaust, more direct cold air intake, polished inter-cooler hard-piping) will cause your boost to scale with the higher volume of air entering the combustion chamber. The only thing that won't scale is your factory fuel settings and with the big step in power you will notice you aren't getting enough fuel into the air mixture. The lean air mixture isn't a great thing for engines because the higher percentage of O2 in the chamber increases the LEL (lower explosive limit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flammability_limit) In layman's terms, the fuel mixture is saturated with more o2 than necessary, making it more unstable, and early detonation may occur (say bye bye sensitive internals)

ctrl-c this consider yourself scienced

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Thanks man, Ill take that into consideration before I buy anything else.

OP: You need to read the modding threads, especially the "sticky's" here. There is a lot to learn to safely mod. It is a mistake to post one thread, get a few responses and accept them as the gospel.

Don't even trust my advice, although I've been around for a while. No two of these cars will respond exactly the same to the same mods, and different guys will have different ideas. Look for a large consensus where most guys seem to agree in lots of different threads. There is a lot of bulls*** out there.

FWIW:

To mod the engine rule #1 IMHO is to monitor. If you don't you're risking safety issues and stabbing in the dark. That AP would be a good beginning, even with it on the stock map. Learn to use it and how to datalog and monitor if you want to keep your engine safe.

And, yes, just about any power mod after a simple intake is going to put a serious strain on the already marginal stock fuel pump, so the pump upgrade is needed. You need to have some way to monitor the fuel rail pressure coming out of the cam driven high pressure fuel pump.

You probably wasted money on replacing the stock BPV, unless you can prove it leaks. Most don't. The stock piece is a very elegant and reliable part and is good for boost well above the capabilities of our stock turbo. But you have it and want to stick with it, be sure you are running full recirc on any bpv, as that works best on this engine.

With my mods, listed below, I am in the 300-310 whp range. You might get 320 with an extremely good custom tune on the AP, but that is big $$$ for the part and more $$$ for someone who knows how to custom tune for your mods and then more $$$ to modify the tune after you add other mods. Or you can climb the very steep learning curve to custom tune yourself.

Or you can get about 95-99% of the power gain with the simple Hypertech reflash programmer. But you will still need to monitor. I already had that base covered with datalogging software. It might be cheaper in the long run for you to go AP. Just know that the general feeling here is that AP OTS maps are not particularly good. You will probably need to custom tune to beat HT.

BTW: If you plan to install that turboback, you absolutely need the pump upgrade. Do that first. And, BTW2: Just get the downpipe and racepipe and save money. The stock CBE flows extremely well on the stock turbo. You will see great gains by replacing the stock downpipe and midpipe and their two low flow cats. You will see essentially zero gains from replacing the catback section. The stock CBE is that good. The only change that will give you is a change in sound, and CBE's are expensive.

IMHO, about 310-320 whp is about max for the stock turbo running on pump fuel.

Enjoy our car. Mod carefully and sensibly after doing a lot of reading and study.

ROTAg said:

An engine that has less restrictions (I.E. high flow exhaust, more direct cold air intake, polished inter-cooler hard-piping) will cause your boost to scale with the higher volume of air entering the combustion chamber. The only thing that won't scale is your factory fuel settings and with the big step in power you will notice you aren't getting enough fuel into the air mixture. The lean air mixture isn't a great thing for engines because the higher percentage of O2 in the chamber increases the LEL (lower explosive limit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flammability_limit) In layman's terms, the fuel mixture is saturated with more o2 than necessary, making it more unstable, and early detonation may occur (say bye bye sensitive internals)

ctrl-c this consider yourself scienced

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Well, sort of . . . generally. A nice general description of the issue. But specific to the MS3 the phemenon works somewhat differently. The ECU seeks to match fuel with air to maintain its targeted and demanded air to fuel ratio. There are two ways to meet the fuel demand. For a given volume, the fuel injector relies on (1) fuel pressure and (2) injector pulse width (the length of time the injector remains open). As power mods are added, air flow increases and so does fuel demand. But even at stock flow levels, the pump in marginal. So, with our marginal pumps, we need about 1600 psi or better at the fuel rail in order for the injector to spray a properly atomized charge into the cylinder. If pressure falls, the ECU is smart enough to compensate (up to a point) by fattening up the pulse width. The lower pressure means that the spray has to last longer for the same volume of fuel to get into that cylinder.

Here is the problem: Even if the injector width is large enough to compensate and maintain target air to fuel ratio, the poorly atomized charge does not burn properly or evenly. Low pressure means a poor spray pattern. Further, there is good evidence that this poorly atomized fuel tends to do two bad things: One is to pool up on the top of the piston producing hot spots that are damaging, even if there is no detonation. The second thing is that the fuel can get past the rings and end up contaminating the oil. Gasoline is a very poor lubricant.

Eventually, the pressure will drop below the ability of the injector pulse widening to compensate. AFR's can no longer be maintained. Then the engine leans out and really bad things happen -- detonation. The ECU will try to pull timing back to avoid or lessen this. It can do that only so far too. Power drops, drivability suffers, and yes, engine failure can take place. A lean out event can take place in a tiny fraction of a second. It would only be detectable on a continuously recorded datalog in which you might see a downward blip in fuel pressure and a corresponding sharp rise in AFR, followed by what is otherwise normal data. The effect is cumulative. Without monitoring for fuel rail pressure, AFR's, widening pulse rate, and timing advance, this is a silent killer, gradually doing damage. The final act of engine failure is just as likely to happen when you are simply idling in the driveway or driving very sensibly.

OP: upgrade the pump, learn to monitor and keep up with your s***.

MSMS3 said:

Well, sort of . . . generally.

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All true. Moral of the story is, go crazy buying parts, then be a man, and take your time bomb to a tuning shop. That is, if all you really care about is stabbing your foot on the skinny right one and going "WEEEEEE." To the contrast, COBB makes a killer self tuning kit that plug and plays with your factory ECU. I believe Corksport offers a good deal on this.

If I were you I would get it tuned professionally. OTS maps are more on the safe side and it wont bring the best out of the parts you have.

Seeing as you are new to this modding scene I would get a used hypertech and play with it until you learn how things work. Then when you are ready to move up sell the hypertech and get an ap. The hypertech covers most mods until you get a downpipe normally but it will even work with downpipes as long as you monitor. Also the other guys are right here, anything more than an intake and test pipe you should get new fuel pump internals.

^ Spam. Mods please read this and delete and ban above user. Pushing junk "diagnostic tool." "My friend have one" ???? We know what scanning tools and software is legit.