How many Brits? Fancy a cuppa?

Hi Jonno, welcome! IOW is not far from me, we often pop over there, lovely place. Try the Bargemans Rest in Newport for some great pub grub!

I've driven both models (in Auto form however) and to be honest didn't find much between them at all in terms of feel/road noise etc. Not very helpful I know but just my thoughts.
 
Hi Jimihat

We go twice a year to the IOW for a fortnight at a time. I will look out for the Bargemans Rest. Any other suggestions welcome although as wifey is a veggie there has to be a reasonable choice for her as well.

TBH I would be looking at an auto as I've got used to the DSG gearbox in the Octavia and would now never go back to manual gears unless I had to. It's nice to know that the handling/ride is the same as even on the 19 inch wheels I found the road noise well suppressed and the ride comfortable. Planning well ahead it will probably be next September when I change so I hope they sort the Tom Tom Live issues by then (won't they?) (spin)

Cheers

Jonno21
 
Hi all

New to the site today. To cut a long story short we are on holiday on the Isle of Wight at the moment and I've test driven a 2.2L Diesel 175hp Sport Nav manual and I thought what a brilliant car. The option I would be considering (but no demo in until later this week) is an SE-L Nav 2WD 150HP Auto. What is the main difference in handling, road noise and responsiveness compared to the version I tried earlier this week?

Also, I noticed no door mirror vibration or bonnet movement whist driving over some very rough potholed roads. We would like to purchase from the IOW when next on holiday so we get a "HW" prefix on the number plate plus the salesman at Northwood Garage in Cowes was the most helpful I've ever come across in my new car buying activities.

Cheers all

Jonno21

I have the 150ps 2wd and test drove the 175ps 4wd.

The 175ps is a little quicker and a little more harsh with the ride quality than the 150ps 2wd. There's not a huge difference though.
 
Several people mention the firmer ride, I honestly didn't find it to be that way, even after being made ultra aware of it by plenty of reviews. Might have just been lucky with the test drive car on the day. Mine arrives Thursday, hope I'm lucky with that one too!!!
 
We go twice a year to the IOW for a fortnight at a time. I will look out for the Bargemans Rest. Any other suggestions welcome although as wifey is a veggie there has to be a reasonable choice for her as well. Jonno21

Haven't been for years, note to self, look at it for the future.

TBH I would be looking at an auto as I've got used to the DSG gearbox in the Octavia and would now never go back to manual gears unless I had to. It's nice to know that the handling/ride is the same as even on the 19 inch wheels I found the road noise well suppressed and the ride comfortable. Jonno21

I have the Auto and I have found this the most responsive on "take-off" auto car I've ever owned, including DSG from the Volkswagen Group. All autos I've owned prior to the Mazda suffered when on approach to a roundabout for instance, you accelerate to merge into moving traffic, and the turbo-lag is frightening, then it kicks in and you have to brake, very dangerous. Not the case with the Mazda however, it does exactly what is being asked of it.

Planning well ahead it will probably be next September when I change so I hope they sort the Tom Tom Live issues by then (won't they?) (spin) Jonno21

September NEXT year? I sincerely hope so. There again judging by the speed of response from Mazda to my issues, that timescale may be realistic.

Alex
 
I'm still having problems with my Galaxy Y, it failed to connect today towing home with the caravan.
Switching the phone off and back on got it to connect, we have no connecting issues with a older Nokia, so I think the problem is the phone.
My Galaxy is on vodaphone is yours? maybe that's the connection?

My live services have continued to work since last reported working again, except once for a short spell when the brolly showed on the screen, it could have been a poor signal area, not sure.

no the sport also has the black engine cover, thankfully as a blue cover with a silver car would look odd, IMO.

I haven't made my mind up yet about the "fabric" wheel arc covers, time will tell.


I have a question of my own, do any owners find the car runs better on fuel that's NOT from a supermarket?
I always use supermarket fuel, but some car owners swear their cars run better on Shell, Esso etc.



Hi,

Well, have taken delivery of my CX-5 SEL Nav auto!

My initial thoughts are these. Firstly, have to say overall I did get a good service from my local Mazda dealer during the ordering and delivery process, no complaints. I did discuss in advance my concerns about firstly the 'oil rise' issue, and later the 'Live Services'; to an extent I was placated and assured any problems would be resolved by Mazda . . . we will see. Incidentally I was originally told I would get 20 of fuel, but in fact at delivery it was a full tank!

At the time of delivery my Galaxy 2 was paired with the NB1 unit, and worked (I could play music from my phone through the system) although I didn't try making a call. But now, it doesn't! It just says I have no phone connected, and when I try to select my phone shown in the bluetooth Setup page, I go round in circles. And of course, Live Services doesn't work, no surprises there. Presumably Live Services and ability to use mobile phone aren't linked in some way??

As for the car, really nice, like it. Steering very good, ditto brakes, throttle response, auto change, etc. There's enough power for me and acceleration seems good but my engineering background says don't thrash it, so I'm not going to! Have checked the oil level before starting - it's just at the 2nd hole from the end of the dipstick (type SHO1 10 450C). When I opened the bonnet I was looking forward to seeing the Blue engine cover, err, but no, just grey, pity! (Presumably only on the Sport).

Hardly tried the Nav system, but seems OK, but still struggling to understand what I should have (from LS) versus what I've actually got. Lot to learn. I do like the local 'speed limit' displayed at the bottom of the screen, and also next to it the actual GPS car speed (something I didn't have in the Golf). So I can immediately see that the car speedometer over reads by 2-4 mph, useful on those aweful 50 mph 'Average Speed Camera' sections.

Outside the car, what are these bizarre stiff fabric/cardboard rear wheel arch liners? They're held in place with barely hand-tight plastic nuts - what's their purpose? Looks like they will fall to pieces when they get wet, muddy, etc! I occasionally power wash my wheel arches, but if I did that I think the water jet would knock them off! I wonder if they are temporary devices which the dealer has forgotten to remove. Any ideas?

That's it for now.
 
I'm still having problems with my Galaxy Y, it failed to connect today towing home with the caravan.
Switching the phone off and back on got it to connect, we have no connecting issues with a older Nokia, so I think the problem is the phone.
My Galaxy is on vodaphone is yours? maybe that's the connection?

My live services have continued to work since last reported working again, except once for a short spell when the brolly showed on the screen, it could have been a poor signal area, not sure.

no the sport also has the black engine cover, thankfully as a blue cover with a silver car would look odd, IMO.

I haven't made my mind up yet about the "fabric" wheel arc covers, time will tell.


I have a question of my own, do any owners find the car runs better on fuel that's NOT from a supermarket?
I always use supermarket fuel, but some car owners swear their cars run better on Shell, Esso etc.

A colleague at work whose husband is a mechanic says he can tell if a car had been run on supermarket fuel. If supermarket fuels contain less detergents then over a long period of time that could lead to more deposits building up in the engine. I was a bit sceptical of the big petrol companies claims about their fuel, but if a mechanic can notice the difference that's worth taking into account.
 
A colleague at work whose husband is a mechanic says he can tell if a car had been run on supermarket fuel. If supermarket fuels contain less detergents then over a long period of time that could lead to more deposits building up in the engine. I was a bit sceptical of the big petrol companies claims about their fuel, but if a mechanic can notice the difference that's worth taking into account.

I think xtrailman is talking about the immediate differences rather than long-term (albeit helpful to know) and whether there is a better throttle response, better MPG, less smoke, better performance etc with premium brand fuel over supermarket?

I've no idea about the Mazda or diesel but the M3 runs badly on supermarket petrol, even Tesco performance one (is it momentum?). I've only ever run Shell Vpower (99 ron). Most performance cars do not run well on anything but the best fuels and the highest RON levels. I'll be using BP or Shell diesel only for the CX-5 but won't be using diesel Vpower just the regular stuff.
 
Ok, I have recently arrived on the as forum as a result of changing cars and have had the 'supermarket petrol' debate on several occasions so here is my take on the subject. Some people will agree and some people will disagree, I don't really care if you disagree, we are all entitled to an opinion but in making the comments I am only trying to help the original poster and having worked in the petrochemical industry both with additive companies and major oil companies in R&D and marketing and have seen the evidence of what I am about to state....... (And I am not trying to be rude about those who disagree, it's just sometimes the debate runs on endlessly and I have had people telling me I have no idea what I am talking about which is fine given I have 25 years experience in the oil industry, if you don't like what I am saying you don't have to pay any note to it)

So...... All fuels are a combination of a base fuel whether petrol or diesel and an additive package. In principle it is the additive package that makes the difference in performance. Most base fuels are the same or similar, the difference is in the premium fuels where they are more highly distilled or refined e.g. V Power / Ultimate etc.

All fuels meet a British Standard, on the face of it fuel is a commodity and any fuel will cause your car to run as designed and more often than not you won't be able to tell any immediate differences. BUT, all fuels are not the same, a lot is said about power outputs and the higher RON fuels can make a difference in highly rated engines (but not so much in every day engines such as those in the Cx5) but in most cases the key element as has been alluded to above is DETERGENCY, in other words how cleanly the fuel burns in your engine and whether it leaves combustion deposits on things such as valves, pistons etc. this is impacted by the additive packages used which tend to be proprietary to each brand.

The oil tankers from the different brands whethe oil co or supermarket will roll up at the local regional refinery and fill with the same base fuel but which will be dosed with the particular brand of additive used by that company.

It follows that those fuels with higher DETERGENCY will keep your engine cleaner over time and hence it will run more efficiently and likely provide better economy but the key phrase here is "over time". Differences are not immediately or always apparent. However you are more likely to pass your MoT if you have been feeding your car branded fuel rather than supermarket fuel, that's not to say cars on supermarket fuels will fail an MoT on emissions, most won't but some will and its more likely with supermarket fuel.

I have seen test rigs that have run engines for thousands of hours on the different fuels and have seen the difference with my own eyes such that I use supermarket fuels in emergencies only. Having spent thousands of pounds on my car I am not going to save a few pennies each time I fill up by using a cheaper fuel.

And finally, for now, a non technical Q&A which might help the doubters. :))
Just answer yes/no to the following questions and reach your own conclusions....
1) do you accept that the oil companies spend vast amounts on research and testing of their fuels over millions of miles?
2) do you believe that the supermarkets do the same?
3) do you think that the oil companies would sell their proprietary technology to the supermarkets so that they can undercut them at the pumps.

Now, as they say, go figure. :)

If you choose to use supermarket fuels that's fine with me, you pays your money and you takes your choice as they say, as I said at the start I am just trying to provide some guidance to the original question and hope this has been helpful.
 
Perusal good post.

Really its what I knew already, but it good to have it confirmed with someone in the industry.

As I don't do high mileage and usually part with my cars with under 30K miles, then I don't think I'll see any short term benefit from premium fuel so I'll just carry on using supermarket fuel.
 
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Hi alex1706,

Ref your "I have the Auto and I have found this the most responsive on "take-off" auto car I've ever owned, including DSG from the Volkswagen Group. All autos I've owned prior to the Mazda suffered when on approach to a roundabout for instance, you accelerate to merge into moving traffic, and the turbo-lag is frightening, then it kicks in and you have to brake, very dangerous. Not the case with the Mazda however, it does exactly what is being asked of it".

Absolutely agree. One of the reasons I've traded in my 2 year old Golf 1.6 DSG is that I was fed up with the behaviour of the semi automatic. I didn't like the harsh take off, preceded by a horrible lag when I planted the accelerator, really disconcerting when trying to make a quick get away at, say, a T junction. Also the DSG was very difficult to control at very low speed, and particularly in reverse. Worst of all, despite having 'hill hold' it would always roll back a little when transiting from brake to throttle on an incline.

In all these areas the CX-5 auto is miles better; there is no lag, no problems on inclines and throttle response is instant . . . just what I wanted!
 
Hi,

On another subject. With 200 miles on the clock I've been unfortunate enough to get a slow puncture. Got into the car yesterday at Bristol airport after a 5 day holiday, then within 3 miles the 'tyre pressure monitoring system' audio and visual alarm went off. I stopped to check but couldn't see anything obvious (it was getting dark) so drove home, rather assuming it was a false indication. This morning the alarm was still there so had a good look at the tyres, and found a small crosshead screw flush with the rear o/s tyre surface, in the tread but close to the tyre wall. I checked the tyre pressure and found it was 6 psi down (from the 34 psi I'd originally set them to).

Popped into the Mazda dealer who checked it and said it was unrepairable (*!!*x!) as the screw was too close to the edge, and quoted 255 for a new Yokohama tyre. Pretty gobsmacked and said any reason why I shouldn't fit an equivalent tyre at my local tyre dealer. Answer, No you can't do that because they are special tyres (or special valves?) and not fitting the original would mean the 'tyre monitoring system' warning would be on all the time!!!

Couldn't believe it, anyway drove home (I'd reinflated the tyre to original pressure) and called Mazda UK about it. This time I was told by a rather unsure and hesitant operator that Yes, it was OK to fit an alternative!! Who to believe? I've quickly checked the manual and can't immediately see anything about it.

Incidentally despite ordering a space saver wheel it wasn't available when I collected the car 10 days ago, so had it been a full puncture . . .
 
Popped into the Mazda dealer who checked it and said it was unrepairable (*!!*x!) as the screw was too close to the edge, and quoted 255 for a new Yokohama tyre. Pretty gobsmacked and said any reason why I shouldn't fit an equivalent tyre at my local tyre dealer. Answer, No you can't do that because they are special tyres (or special valves?) and not fitting the original would mean the 'tyre monitoring system' warning would be on all the time!!!

Couldn't believe it, anyway drove home (I'd reinflated the tyre to original pressure) and called Mazda UK about it. This time I was told by a rather unsure and hesitant operator that Yes, it was OK to fit an alternative!! Who to believe? I've quickly checked the manual and can't immediately see anything about it.

I would dispute that. The last two cars I've owned had similar tyre pressure monitoring systems on the wheel valves, and it didn't matter what make tyre was fitted, but the fitters needed to take care regards the valves & sensors within the rims.

Alex
 
I would dispute that. The last two cars I've owned had similar tyre pressure monitoring systems on the wheel valves, and it didn't matter what make tyre was fitted, but the fitters needed to take care regards the valves & sensors within the rims.

Alex

the tpms monitors any difference in the rotational speed of the tyres.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire-pressure_monitoring_system

mazda use the indirect version. The tyres should be the same type or it follows the tpms would throw a wobbly.

I normally replace the tyres in 2's and put the new ones on the back for increased safety. If 2 different makes of tyres is going to freak the tpms out i'll just have to swap the front with back and replace 4 at the same time. I want to put continenals or uniroyals on. fortunately on 17 inch wheels they are about half the price of what you've been quoted.
 
Hi all I have noticed water that drains from holes in all doors at bottom when the doors are opened after rain.I can see this being an issue with rust and in winter when freezing weather arrives
 
I hope you still have the punctured tyre as its probably repairable.

I've had three tyres hot vulcanise repaired, not cheap but if the tyre is nearly new its cost effective.

Also as Dad says the tyre pressure monitor works of the "ABS" sensors, and I'm told by a forum member that the alarm will sound on a 10% error.

Hi,

On another subject. With 200 miles on the clock I've been unfortunate enough to get a slow puncture. Got into the car yesterday at Bristol airport after a 5 day holiday, then within 3 miles the 'tyre pressure monitoring system' audio and visual alarm went off. I stopped to check but couldn't see anything obvious (it was getting dark) so drove home, rather assuming it was a false indication. This morning the alarm was still there so had a good look at the tyres, and found a small crosshead screw flush with the rear o/s tyre surface, in the tread but close to the tyre wall. I checked the tyre pressure and found it was 6 psi down (from the 34 psi I'd originally set them to).

Popped into the Mazda dealer who checked it and said it was unrepairable (*!!*x!) as the screw was too close to the edge, and quoted 255 for a new Yokohama tyre. Pretty gobsmacked and said any reason why I shouldn't fit an equivalent tyre at my local tyre dealer. Answer, No you can't do that because they are special tyres (or special valves?) and not fitting the original would mean the 'tyre monitoring system' warning would be on all the time!!!

Couldn't believe it, anyway drove home (I'd reinflated the tyre to original pressure) and called Mazda UK about it. This time I was told by a rather unsure and hesitant operator that Yes, it was OK to fit an alternative!! Who to believe? I've quickly checked the manual and can't immediately see anything about it.

Incidentally despite ordering a space saver wheel it wasn't available when I collected the car 10 days ago, so had it been a full puncture . . .
 
mazda use the indirect version. The tyres should be the same type or it follows the tpms would throw a wobbly.

Can you explain why they should be the same type? (Assuming you are referring to brand)

I can understand that they need to be the same size, profile etc. but I don't understand why they need to be the same type. I would have thought that if tyre selection was so critical in the event of a puncture that something would be mentioned in the manual.

It also raises the question about fitting a new tyre opposite a worn tyre on the same axle given that both tyres will have a slightly different rolling circumference

Interesting stuff this......
 
Hi all I have noticed water that drains from holes in all doors at bottom when the doors are opened after rain.I can see this being an issue with rust and in winter when freezing weather arrives

I'll get some waxol and spray it into the doors along with any cavities I see under the car.
 
Perusal good post.

Really its what I knew already, but it good to have it confirmed with someone in the industry.

As I don't do high mileage and usually part with my cars with under 30K miles, then I don't think I'll see any short term benefit from premium fuel so I'll just carry on using supermarket fuel.

I have to agree a very good post from Perusal. I have taken a different approach and do use supermarket fuels , but then dose each tank with Millers Power Ecomax using 1ml per 1 Litre of fuel. 60 buys a 5litre container which is enough for 5000 litres of fuel or quite a lot of miles. Of course this works out a hell of a lot cheaper than buying Vpower and the like. As I tend to keep my vehicles around 10 years or longer I hope to reap the long term benefits.

As I understand it after swallowing some of the marketing Hype, additives like Millers increase the Lubricity of the Derv which in turn helps to preserve the fuel pump system, as well as increase the cetane rating (combustibility) of the base fuel which means a cleaner burn and less smoke to clog a DPF filter. Having used it in quite a few cars I found it did reduce the smokey exhaust on my Euro111 spec Signum 3.0 as well as provide smoother running. A little subjective observation possibly, but perhaps Perusal could comment with more authority?
 
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