Issues with Closing Liftgate

seemoon

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Mazda CX5 Maxx Sport Diesel
Just got delivery of the CX-5 a few days ago and noticed inn a lot of instances, I have closed the liftgate and checked visually that it is indeed closed properly, but for some reason I am unable to remotely lock the car or the indicator for a door still open is still activated. I have to open and close the liftgate a few more times before I can get it closed correctly.

Is anyone else experiencing this issue? I will be sure to mention this on my 1K service.
 
Same has happened to me also. How do you close your lift gate? I pull down with the cut out that is on the bottom of the gate and then when low enough I push on the Mazda logo.
 
Me too. It often looks closed but isn't quite. The door ajar light pops up on he dash. I plan to look into possibly adjusting the latch.
 
Same has happened to me also. How do you close your lift gate? I pull down with the cut out that is on the bottom of the gate and then when low enough I push on the Mazda logo.

I have tried using the cut out and also tried using the bottom of the liftgate itself. I have figured out it requires more of a push forward rather than a push down to close it properly. So you might need to push it a bit lower on the liftgate. Usually around 6 inches from actual close i use a firm push.
 
Same thing with my CX5 and my GF mazda 3 sport, i think that the latch is actuated with an electric motor.
If you dont give it enough time to unlatch properly the latch stay in a kind of unlatch position.
Try waiting a few second before closing it, normally if a realized it's not properly close i open it and then wait a few second, you can actually hear an electric motor at work, then i close it again.
Maybe i got it all wrong but that's what i think of it.
 
Same thing with my CX5 and my GF mazda 3 sport, i think that the latch is actuated with an electric motor.
If you dont give it enough time to unlatch properly the latch stay in a kind of unlatch position.
Try waiting a few second before closing it, normally if a realized it's not properly close i open it and then wait a few second, you can actually hear an electric motor at work, then i close it again.
Maybe i got it all wrong but that's what i think of it.

The electric latch is the opening portion, when you slam the catch over the loop it holds on nice and tight, mechanically. When you press the soft electrical button it opens the catch to release off of the loop. I think the hatch is just like the other 4 doors, need a firm push to close and can't be limp wristed.
 
I can usually tell when the hatch didn't close all the way by the sound it makes. When closed properly, the sound is a solid Thunk. If it didn't catch, it sounds like a Tha-Thunk.
 
On day 4, my rear latch failed altogether. Unlocked all the doors, pushed the button and nothing happened. They replaced the latch and listed "Corrosion" as the reason. Not sure if it's related in any way but figured I'd throw it out there just in case.
 
I was having trouble with this too when I first got mine. What works for me is to close it most of the way by pulling down on the cutout. When the hatch is down to about the same position it's in when you first pop it open with the electric latch, give it a final firm push-in on the Mazda logo to latch it. I double check it's closed by checking that the seam on the tail lights is flush.
 
The guys at Car and Driver also wrote about having to "slam" the liftgate. After not closing it properly a few times I got used to putting more pressure on it and I get it right every time. It's a matter of getting used to it.
 
I was having trouble with this too when I first got mine. What works for me is to close it most of the way by pulling down on the cutout. When the hatch is down to about the same position it's in when you first pop it open with the electric latch, give it a final firm push-in on the Mazda logo to latch it. I double check it's closed by checking that the seam on the tail lights is flush.

Same here.... PurplMyst said well..... Don't get me wrong..... I'm lovin' the vehicle......

The shaky drivers' side mirror, also seems to be a valid concern..... Last night I had the opportunity to do some turnpike driving, and the drivers' side mirror does exhibit noticible vibrations.....while the passenger side mirror is very "steady" .

.....this "truck", will be perfect for the 2000 mile road-trip, from Orlando to Caribou.
 
G'day guys and gals,
I also have experienced difficulty in closing the tailgate properly.
My thoughts are that it doesn't close due to cabin air pressure.
The door and hatch rubber seals are doing their jobs too well.
These may loosen up with time.
In the interim, I have resorted to opening one of the rear passenger doors before closing the tailgate.
Works every time!
It's the ides of winter "downunder" so all my windows remain shut, else, slightly opening a window will also alleviate the buildup of cabin air pressure when closing "the boot" as we call it here. (only elephants have trunks!)
Cheers,
Giddy.
 
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G'day guys and gals,
I also have experienced difficulty in closing the tailgate properly.
My thoughts are that it doesn't close due to cabin air pressure.
The door and hatch rubber seals are doing their jobs too well.These may loosen up with time.
In the interim, I have resorted to opening one of the rear passenger doors before closing the tailgate.
Works every time!
It's the ides of winter "downunder" so all my windows remain shut, else, slightly opening a window will also alleviate the buildup of cabin air pressure when closing "the boot" as we call it here. (only elephants have trunks!)
Cheers,
Giddy.

Not just the tailgate. I notice you have to use more effort to close all four doors too. The rubber seals are really sealing well.
 
I was having trouble with this too when I first got mine. What works for me is to close it most of the way by pulling down on the cutout. When the hatch is down to about the same position it's in when you first pop it open with the electric latch, give it a final firm push-in on the Mazda logo to latch it. I double check it's closed by checking that the seam on the tail lights is flush.

I wouldn't advise pushing on the Mazda logo. I'm not sure which countries have it, but here in Canada we have a foam seal around the top half of the logo. The seal is very poor quality and mine has already broken without pushing on the logo. I can only imagine how easily the seal will break if you push on it.
 
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So far I've got my car for about a month and have no issues at all closing. It takes minimal effort to shut mine. It actually takes more effort to close the door as it's air tight.
 
simply cracking open any side window a few millimeters helps alleviate the interior cabin pressure when closing any door. then check the dashboard to make sure the open door indicator doesn't go off and to be sure it's closed properly.

i'd rather have the seals do a great job as they are rather than diminishing their effectiveness.
 
I bought one of these

http://www.framehandle.com/

it comes with bolts/nuts/plastic covers to secure the bottom so that it won't scratch up the finish (since we don't have the 4 screw option) it felt a little cheap in the package, but feels solid with a plate and attached to the car. If anyone wants, I can post some pictures later tonight.

I use the cut out to get the hatch low enough to grab the framehandle and then I can close it pretty easily without getting hand/finger prints all over the back.

Best regards,

David
 
I had the same issue with my CX7 and the rubber seal is tough and you need to close firmly. I don't slam, just close firmly with a push.
 
I have noticed improvement with mine regarding this issue, as in, perhaps after a "break in" it eventually requires less effort to close the gate fully.

When it was new, I had to pop it back open and slam it almost every time. Now, I can get it closed first attempt, and I really don't feel like I'm putting forth more effort to do so.

Just a thought. But, I do agree that it is/was an annoying occurence.
 
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