Inner tie rod removal tips

I just got done changing my inner and outer tie rod ends and thought I'd share my experience. Sorry for the bad pics, my camera is garbage.

Things you'll need:
  • Inner tie rod removal tool (makes the job way easier)
  • New inner tie rods
  • New lock washers (Mazda part # B25D-32-132, they cost me $2.15 each)
  • Stainless steel lashing wire (maybe 60-70cm)

Regarding the replacement inner tie rod ends: the tie rod ends on either side of the car are slightly different. On the right hand side the ball joint has a vent hole, I'm not sure what it's there for but it must have some function. Some aftermarket companies use the same part for both sides, I'm sure they'll work fine, but you should be aware of the difference. I bought Deeza-brand parts which are pretty close to identical to the OEM ones.

Here's a picture comparing the right (top) and left (bottom) OEM inner tie rod ends:
AjIu5.jpg


Notice the vent hole on the right one, it extends through the stud to vent the steering rack.

Regarding the lock washer: the washer needs to be replaced because (1) you'll damage it when you remove it, and (2) it is staked onto the steering rack. It doesn't seem to be mentioned in the service manual, but you do have to stake the washer once you put the new tie rod end in place. The washer looks something like this:
DrgXk.jpg


This was taken off my car, notice that it's staked at two points. In order to remove and install the inner tie rod using the special remover tool, you'll need to bend the two smaller tabs on the washer so you can actually get the tool on. You can sorta see one of the tabs in this picture:
GWPJQ.jpg


Once they're bent back you can use the inner tie rod removal tool:
V1yW2.jpg


Once you get everything back together (tightening torque is 50ft-lbs for the inner tie rod end) you'll have to put the boot back on. The outer clamp can be reused but you're forced to cut off the stainless steel wire holding the inner-side of the boot in place. Using some new wire, secure the boot like this:
j9iXD.jpg


And that's pretty much it, this job is pretty easy. The hardest part is removing the outer tie rod end. The easiest way to do that is to use an angle grinder to cut the old inner tie rod in half and use a pickle fork to separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle. You'll destroy the inner tie rod end and the outer tie rod end's dust boot, but it'll be quick and easy :)

Luckily I was able to get everything apart with relative ease (thank you PB blaster) but the method mentioned above is a great backup plan if you get stuck.

Edit: forgot to show the finished product:
jwFh6.jpg
 
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What were the symptoms of a bad inner tie rod? I have a slight clunk in the front end that I'm trying to hunt down, and I'm wondering if it could be the inner tie rods.
 
What were the symptoms of a bad inner tie rod? I have a slight clunk in the front end that I'm trying to hunt down, and I'm wondering if it could be the inner tie rods.

It's very easy to diagnose, lift the front one corner at a time and grab the corresponding tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock position. Try moving the tire about the vertical axis and listen/feel for looseness. If either tie rod is loose you'll notice some play, even a tiny amount can make noise. Now, to determine which ball joint is loose watch the inner tie rod end as you move the tire, if it moves then it's the inner tie rod end, if it doesn't then it's the outer tie rod end. If it's loose enough you might even be able to tell which one it is by the sound it makes.

While you have the tire in the air grab it at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and move it about the horizontal axis to check for play in the wheel bearing and the control arm ball joint. Any play should be addressed quickly, loose ball joints are an accident waiting to happen.
 
Do you have a part number for the Deeza-brand tie rod that you used? Is it MD-A608 by any chance? Where did you buy them from? I'm looking at changing my inner drivers side tie rod as well...

Thanks!

Steve
 
Do you have a part number for the Deeza-brand tie rod that you used? Is it MD-A608 by any chance? Where did you buy them from? I'm looking at changing my inner drivers side tie rod as well...

Thanks!

Steve

I assume this is for a Protege5? The part you're referring to (MD-A608) is for a Mazda 6...

These are Deeza-brand parts I used on my P5 (all ordered from rockauto.com):
  • 1x MDA606 - Right inner tie rod end
  • 1x MDA607 - Left inner tie rod end
  • 2x FOT622 - Outer tie rod end
 
Ah I'm changing them on my 2006 mazdaspeed 6. I bought the tie-rod at Napa.

However, I can't seem to get the outer tie rod off. The nut seems to have rust-welded itself to the outer tie rod and the outer tie rod it won't pop out of the outer boot/ball joint. :/ I'm considering using your back up plan lol. Now if only I had an angle grinder...
 
You can get a new cheapo grinder for $20- $30 (on sale at Can. Tire). I use mine all the time now that I have one,... cutting disks especially,... well worth the investment.
 
Ah I'm changing them on my 2006 mazdaspeed 6. I bought the tie-rod at Napa.

However, I can't seem to get the outer tie rod off. The nut seems to have rust-welded itself to the outer tie rod and the outer tie rod it won't pop out of the outer boot/ball joint. :/ I'm considering using your back up plan lol. Now if only I had an angle grinder...

If you're installing new parts, then by all means use an angle grinder and pickle fork. It'll take less time and it's a lot more fun :)

You can get a new cheapo grinder for $20- $30 (on sale at Can. Tire). I use mine all the time now that I have one,... cutting disks especially,... well worth the investment.

I've had a couple of those, both died an early death; not worth it...
 
subbin, thanks for the tips as i may need them depending on the answer to the next question.

the dust boot on the outer tie rod is torn and damaged. mechanic recommended replacement, didnt mention inner tie rod. car has 135k miles, should the inner tie rods be replaced as well? would it contribute to a groaning noise similar to a propeller airplane?
 
subbin, thanks for the tips as i may need them depending on the answer to the next question.

the dust boot on the outer tie rod is torn and damaged. mechanic recommended replacement, didnt mention inner tie rod. car has 135k miles, should the inner tie rods be replaced as well? would it contribute to a groaning noise similar to a propeller airplane?

Does the noise you mention become louder the faster you go?
 
i hear it most around 20-40 mph, only slightly louder if at all. around 50+ the engine noise over powers it. if i coast in neutral i can still hear the air plane. sounds like a Cessna is under my hood.

is it good practice to replace both inner/outer or just as needed?
 
i hear it most around 20-40 mph, only slightly louder if at all. around 50+ the engine noise over powers it. if i coast in neutral i can still hear the air plane. sounds like a Cessna is under my hood.

is it good practice to replace both inner/outer or just as needed?

I don't think its your tie rods then. Maybe wheel bearings?? I would start a thread and find out.
 
hope its not my wheel bearings, they were replaced in 2012. however, the outer tie rod boot is torn, so i'll probably still replace that. my biggest question here is whether both the inner + outer should be replaced at the same time.
 
hope its not my wheel bearings, they were replaced in 2012. however, the outer tie rod boot is torn, so i'll probably still replace that. my biggest question here is whether both the inner + outer should be replaced at the same time.

If you can take it apart without damaging the boot of the outer tie rod, check how stiff/loose the stud is. If its stiff, the outer one is fine. If you live in the rust belt, chances are you will have a nightmare trying to remove those tie rods from the knuckle and the inner rod, especially if you try doing so without damaging anything.

Here is a worn out outer tie rod end that I took out of another car. You can see how the stud doesn't even hold against gravity:

IMG-20140126-01278.jpg
 
You're supposed to measure the gravity,...

I was only showing an example of what a worn out outer tie rod end looks like, no need to test anything when you see the tie rod end is that bad...

Ideally, you are correct about getting scale measurements. However, how often does someone easily remove their tie rod end to measure something like this? From experience, people change them because they know or suspect that its a problem area, and most of the time by the time you get the darn stud out the knuckle, the boot is completely torn, in which case it needs to be replaced.
 
Does anyone know where can I get the lock washers? I bought the Moog inner tie rod ends and they didn't come with the washers. I'd like to get the washers quickly so I can do my inners this weekend.
 
Thanks MrGiggles. Order placed. It should only take 3 business days, which is pretty good considering the plaform is over 10 years old.

For future reference, I've been looking around and it looks like the Beck Arnley inner tie rod end has the washer included. HOWEVER, there is no reference to whether this is the left or right part (Online Mazda parts lists two different part numbers).

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1552578&cc=1387447&jnid=419&jpid=9

Beck/Arnley Part Number: 1015227
 
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