Yeah the headlights are in, just need to clean the headlight protectors and take some photos of the end result
They work really well from the very short distance it was driven the other night and BRIGHT
How hard was it to paint your lights?
Ice's N/A Build
- Thread starter Ice88
- Start date
How hard was it to paint your lights?
Hey man,
Pretty easy, biggest thing is to take your time when prying them open
Just followed the guide here loosley:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?114394-How-To-headlight-black-out-for-P5!
Only differences is I used 600 wet to sand it followed by 800 wet. Then painted it with black paint, no primer. Then just multiple light coats.
Couple more shots of the headlights after they were complete:
The test harness that my friend whipped up to test the lights:
The result:
Pretty easy, biggest thing is to take your time when prying them open
Just followed the guide here loosley:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?114394-How-To-headlight-black-out-for-P5!
Only differences is I used 600 wet to sand it followed by 800 wet. Then painted it with black paint, no primer. Then just multiple light coats.
Couple more shots of the headlights after they were complete:
The test harness that my friend whipped up to test the lights:
The result:
i find it hard to believe that your stove will not go lower. even the cheap one i used to have went down to 175F
Yeah i went retarded and didnt think to turn it down. Made me feel completely stupid.
madmat1987
Member
- :
- Mazda 323 Lantis
cough UPDATE cough cough
madmat1987
Member
- :
- Mazda 323 Lantis
Cheeky Bugger.
Quick Update. Looks like the threads are rooted in the block, installing the head last night and the head studs just stripped the thread on the block, trying to re torque the studs just results in the studs never getting tight. Taking the engine back to the guys whom did the bottom end, going to put two helacoils in the two stuffed threads and investigate using a bigger bolt.
Have some photos of the build process. Also looks like my compression is more then 11:1. Its anywhere from 11.6:1 - 12.14:1 Compression. Have a sneaky suspicion that the pistons are pistons for a K1 with a bigger wrist pin?. Only thing is my rods are 1mm longer. *shrug*
So long as the valve recesses are big enough that the engine rotates, I'll be happy. Does mean I need to look into ECUs sooner rather then later. Still hoping, that utilizing the MSF ECU will give me the ability to put around while I work out the wiring etc.
Have some photos that I'll upload ASAP but not having alot of fun trying to upload from phone...
Quick Update. Looks like the threads are rooted in the block, installing the head last night and the head studs just stripped the thread on the block, trying to re torque the studs just results in the studs never getting tight. Taking the engine back to the guys whom did the bottom end, going to put two helacoils in the two stuffed threads and investigate using a bigger bolt.
Have some photos of the build process. Also looks like my compression is more then 11:1. Its anywhere from 11.6:1 - 12.14:1 Compression. Have a sneaky suspicion that the pistons are pistons for a K1 with a bigger wrist pin?. Only thing is my rods are 1mm longer. *shrug*
So long as the valve recesses are big enough that the engine rotates, I'll be happy. Does mean I need to look into ECUs sooner rather then later. Still hoping, that utilizing the MSF ECU will give me the ability to put around while I work out the wiring etc.
Have some photos that I'll upload ASAP but not having alot of fun trying to upload from phone...
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
^sorry about the studs, man...excited for the pic's though.
This is the source engine from which I stole the nuts off for the Oil Pump, Water Pump and a few bracket bolts. Its a friends old engine that he had the unfortunate disposition of hyrdo locking during the floods IIRC
Cleaning the Block surface ready for the head:
Engine with water pump, oil pump and some of the pulleys:
Check out the flushness yo:
One of the bolts shortly after stripping the thread in the block:
Cleaning the Block surface ready for the head:
Engine with water pump, oil pump and some of the pulleys:
Check out the flushness yo:
One of the bolts shortly after stripping the thread in the block:
@iracemine, I hope so. Still not sure whether to use aftermarket ECU or to use standard. First 100ish kilometres is pretty crucial. If im too rich ill wash the bore, if im too lean Ill detonate, if I dont do a couple of good vac runs to bed the rings in the engine wont produce as much power. After that crucial period I'm not so worried. But for that period I just don't know which way to go.
@JITB, Thanks man. Should turn out well, given the higher compression ratio I should prolly go for some wilder cams like iracemine uses in his build (which is worth checking out btw) but the cars meant for street + track days. Hoping that the combination of higher compression and not such wild cams will make for a nicer cruising.
Otherwise heard back from the engine shop today. Turns out bolts were incorrect, they were to short and to small in diameter.
****s me cause I double checked that box when I bought it and checked it after we stripped the threads. Wrong bolts in the box. If I'd had bought an entire engine I would have had a stud that I could have used to compare of course but had no such thing.
*sigh*. Either way works progressing solidly, should hear back regarding the engine start of next week.
Couldn't sleep last night, and based on maths I did valve clearance will be close. Still not sure how the compression ended up out of spec? Ofc, doesnt mean itll work, piston rock, valve angle etc all play factors and I couldnt really account for them as I have no previous data to go on.
EDIT: Words cannot describe how pissed off I am atm. Im pretty easy going most of the time, but I loathe ****ing up. Other then doing things properly its the one thing that will **** me off in no time at all.
@JITB, Thanks man. Should turn out well, given the higher compression ratio I should prolly go for some wilder cams like iracemine uses in his build (which is worth checking out btw) but the cars meant for street + track days. Hoping that the combination of higher compression and not such wild cams will make for a nicer cruising.
Otherwise heard back from the engine shop today. Turns out bolts were incorrect, they were to short and to small in diameter.
****s me cause I double checked that box when I bought it and checked it after we stripped the threads. Wrong bolts in the box. If I'd had bought an entire engine I would have had a stud that I could have used to compare of course but had no such thing.
*sigh*. Either way works progressing solidly, should hear back regarding the engine start of next week.
Couldn't sleep last night, and based on maths I did valve clearance will be close. Still not sure how the compression ended up out of spec? Ofc, doesnt mean itll work, piston rock, valve angle etc all play factors and I couldnt really account for them as I have no previous data to go on.
EDIT: Words cannot describe how pissed off I am atm. Im pretty easy going most of the time, but I loathe ****ing up. Other then doing things properly its the one thing that will **** me off in no time at all.
Ordered my new ECU today:
- Adaptronic e440D
- Innovate MTX-L Wide Band Kit
- Flex Fuel Sensor
Got my engine back from the engine builder, its close but my valve recesses are fine. Was talking to my dad about the problem and he came up with an approach to calculate the Valve recesses more accurately. Depending on what values I use for my head depends on what compression ratio I get, but middle of the range is 11.66:1. At this stage I really dont care anymore, so many variables and without ccing my head myself I'll never really know. I know that it all works so that's good enough for me now.
An interesting concept and not something you'd prolly ever hear on this board is that I might be under camed.
Things I still need:
- Fuel Pressure Reg
- WRX Injectors for E85.
- Pick a Tuner
- Fuel Pump for E85
List is in priority of stuff needed. Not sure anyones really reading this but what are peoples thoughts on using GTAe gears + triple cone synchros for first and second?
GT-ae Gears:
3.454:1
2.187:1
FS Gears:
3.307:1
1.842:1
Overall ratios would be:
3.454:1 (GT-ae)
2.187:1 (GT-ae)
1.310:1
0.970:1
0.717:1 (GTX
Means that at 7700 rpm Id be dropping back to 4500 rpm. Based on LW posts on Twiggy Cams that's right at the start of the power band. Not sure what my power band will be like at this stage, so unsure if this will be a good thing or if ill be going on cam to off cam and have some lag.
- Adaptronic e440D
- Innovate MTX-L Wide Band Kit
- Flex Fuel Sensor
Got my engine back from the engine builder, its close but my valve recesses are fine. Was talking to my dad about the problem and he came up with an approach to calculate the Valve recesses more accurately. Depending on what values I use for my head depends on what compression ratio I get, but middle of the range is 11.66:1. At this stage I really dont care anymore, so many variables and without ccing my head myself I'll never really know. I know that it all works so that's good enough for me now.
An interesting concept and not something you'd prolly ever hear on this board is that I might be under camed.
Things I still need:
- Fuel Pressure Reg
- WRX Injectors for E85.
- Pick a Tuner
- Fuel Pump for E85
List is in priority of stuff needed. Not sure anyones really reading this but what are peoples thoughts on using GTAe gears + triple cone synchros for first and second?
GT-ae Gears:
3.454:1
2.187:1
FS Gears:
3.307:1
1.842:1
Overall ratios would be:
3.454:1 (GT-ae)
2.187:1 (GT-ae)
1.310:1
0.970:1
0.717:1 (GTX
Means that at 7700 rpm Id be dropping back to 4500 rpm. Based on LW posts on Twiggy Cams that's right at the start of the power band. Not sure what my power band will be like at this stage, so unsure if this will be a good thing or if ill be going on cam to off cam and have some lag.
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That's what I was thinking, what are these GT-AE gears you speak of and where did you get them. Looking at the gear ratios and having a redline of 7700 will have a really even power distribution throughout the gears. Is this build towards daily driving/road racing/auto-x?
Either way, I'm sure there are plenty of people paying attention but I have noticed that when guys get in depth with information and have a good amount of knowledge (like yourself) that people tend to shy away from posting to not look dumb or just to keep your thread clean. A majority of the people on the forum couldn't talk smartly about gearsets or basic engine theory. But please keep updating this thread it's good to see this much depth and detail in a build.
@iracemine/JaLMP5, Apologies if you already know some of this. In the late 80s early 90s Mazda did a whole bunch of special edition cars that had for the time crazy levels if engineering. People are generally familiar with the BPT cars, theres a few models that came out. However only the GTR and GT-ae are pertinent to your questions. Mazda Japan produced a rally version of the GTX, known as the GTR. Was pretty crazy bit of gear sodium filled valves, 440cc injectors and a whole bunch of other gear. Overall 2200 were built to my knowledge. Mazda then went one step further and produced 300 GT-ae's which was a lighter and faster version. It was 30-40kgs lighter and had a close ratio gear box.
1-3 are not straight cut but are shot peened and have triple cone synchros for aid in high rev down shifting. Pretty epic stuff for early 90s
In any event this is where I was going to get my gears from.
Honestly. The whole build is centered around making the car unique and fast. The car isn't needed to be my DD as I live close to the CBD and catch a train to and from work. My plans eventually are to take part in few track days and road rallies, so the build is centered around making the car fast in the corners. Part of its also that no one here (Australia) modifies these cars and dismisses them as granny cars. Granted I've spent a decent amount of money, but trying to discourage the notion that NA is useless and that these cars are good cars to modify.
Im sure there's general perceptions in the states as well, but here the perceptions are that cars arent worth perusing unless there evo, sti, 200sx (S15 Silvia) or the like.
And thanks man, means alot to me that peeps are interested in the things I'm doing.
1-3 are not straight cut but are shot peened and have triple cone synchros for aid in high rev down shifting. Pretty epic stuff for early 90s
In any event this is where I was going to get my gears from.
Honestly. The whole build is centered around making the car unique and fast. The car isn't needed to be my DD as I live close to the CBD and catch a train to and from work
. My plans eventually are to take part in few track days and road rallies, so the build is centered around making the car fast in the corners. Part of its also that no one here (Australia) modifies these cars and dismisses them as granny cars. Granted I've spent a decent amount of money, but trying to discourage the notion that NA is useless and that these cars are good cars to modify.Im sure there's general perceptions in the states as well, but here the perceptions are that cars arent worth perusing unless there evo, sti, 200sx (S15 Silvia) or the like.
And thanks man, means alot to me that peeps are interested in the things I'm doing.
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Ice - I'm really glad you stuck with this build man. I am one that wrote the FSDE off completely in my P5 and went to another platform to see what possibilities are out there. My build thread speaks of the utter crap I've had to go through to make it work, but I'm 100% sure you can relate when I say :
It's not what everyone else thinks or wants from your build - it's what you do that makes you smile when you know YOU paid the bill, YOU did the work, and YOU get to drive it as much as you want.
At least that's what makes me smile when I hear such things like "Protege with a v6??? BullSh!t.... ".
It's not what everyone else thinks or wants from your build - it's what you do that makes you smile when you know YOU paid the bill, YOU did the work, and YOU get to drive it as much as you want.
At least that's what makes me smile when I hear such things like "Protege with a v6??? BullSh!t.... ".
