CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

I've always had good luck with myhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). They support 12K lbs.

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Limeybastard said:
Did my wife's first oil change on her 2015 GT earlier today, I must be fat as I needed to drive her car up on some 2X4 for better clearance. Took the advice of an earlier poster and hammered the oil filter tool on to the original as it was on very hard. Came off, but now the tool is stuck on the oil filter and I cannot remove it LOL.

Purchased Castrol Edge 0-20W and also a Purolator filter. Poured all 5 quarts inside.

Just out of interest, I removed the 8mm hex bolt but I could not for the life of me see a crush washer. I checked the bolt and also the oil sump nothing was there. I installed without crush washer... Oh well..
Click to expand...

I had practically the same experience with my first oil change. As it turned out the washer was stuck to the oil pan. I had reinstalled the plug putting on a new washer, while the original washer had distorted below the new washer, and leaked quite a bit. I ended up draining the oil again after about 500 miles to investigate the leak and finally did discover the original washer, once removed, all was well. The original seemed to be painted on to the oil pan, that's why it did not just fall off, and was hard to see. If your not leaking, I would wait to the next oil change to search for that original washer.
 
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I picked up Mazda moly & filter today and plan to change this weekend. So some have used all 5 quarts?
 
Interesting that some needed 5 or more quarts for oil change. Did you let drain for an extended period or was vehicle jacked up differently?

FSM shows the following for dry engines:

Engine oil capacity [SKYACTIV-G 2.5] (approx. quantity)
Oil replacement: 4.3 L {4.5 US qt, 3.8 lmp qt}
Oil and oil filter replacement: 4.5 L {4.8 US qt, 4.0 lmp qt}
Total (dry engine, without oil cooler): 5.4 L {5.7 US qt, 4.8 Imp qt}
Total (dry engine, with oil cooler): 5.5 L {5.8 US qt, 4.8 Imp qt}
 
Mine shows about 1/2 quart low after 4.8 quart change. I changed on ramps and let it drain for over an hour.
 
I still had 3/4 of another moly quart sitting around from when I thought factory fill was low so topped off with that. I'm gonna go with longer 6 month / 7500 mile schedule. That will probably mean around 4-5K miles between changes.
 
It basically took 5.3 quarts to get get it exactly at the top dot. I must have really drained it out.

I've used 0W-30 synthetic in another car before but this 0W-20 seems almost like water...wow that stuff is thin.

I've changed oil in all of my cars for the last 25 years but I am always nervous the first time changing it in a new car. This is an easy one... and will be much easier with the Fumoto on there next time.
Nothing was overly tight. A little more spillage out of oil filter than I expected but not a biggie.
 
I went out and bought an OEM filter that I got for about $6 on eBay and it says it fits but the part number is slightly different than the original.
The original part number is: PE01-14-302
The one that was sent to me was: PE01-14-302A
Although it says that it fits my 2013 Mazda,I wanted to confirm and I also wanted to know what the difference is between 302 and 302A. Just trying to make sure its the right part.Thanks!
 
I've read that 302A is new for SkyActive and replaces 302. I acutally made sure to get 302A when I purchased mine.

There is a thread somewhere but can't find it now....
 
Dealer sold me a 302A back in late October. Looking at threads elsewhere it appears the 302A has been out for years though. I wonder if the 302 was old stock?
 
The 302A,as I was informed are the only ones that Mazda is selling now,they didnt tell me about any differences they just said it was the only one that they were selling.I did my oil change with it 2 weeks ago runs perfectly.
 
Another great thread for this prospective buyer!

One thing I'd like to add (which he may have done anyhow) to the OP's DIY instructions.
I see the oil filter is a vertical mount filter. On vehicles that have a vertical filter like that, while the oil is draining, I like to take a small funnel and slowly fill the filter a little bit... let it sit for a bit and let the media suck up the oil... fill it up a little more... let it sit, and continue until the filter is almost full.

I really like having as much oil in the filter as possible so the entire system is pressurized as quickly as possible on the initial start up. Maybe overkill, but it makes me feel better. :)

Dave
 
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I have a 13' Touring and my uncle added a bit too much oil, I think its like 1 inch over the second dot, has been driving normally with no weird noises and the exhaust pipe isn't bursting out with gas, do you think this will cause any harm or will be detrimental, haven't had a chance to tell if its leaking its been raining in the city for the past few days. Also when I put the dipstick in it never seems to show a fully accurate reading as there is oil even halfway up the dipstick, I can even provide an image soon. I am going to harbor freight tools to buy a siphon pump siphon out some oil. Does anyone have any input, should I wait until it dries up to make sure I have a leak?
http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html-That is the pump I will be using.
Any help or advice will be great, Thanks!
 
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