CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

I've had to do the punched screwdriver trick a couple of times in the past. Always works, but I've always punched all the way through too.
 
Hey guys, just an update on how I managed to get the filter off. I didn't end up going to the dealership, I really didn't want the filter to beat me. So I ended up going to PartSource and picked up a Fram Filter Wrench (FM101, size 65-67mm). It fit the OEM filter very snug. It was still very tricky, as it was slipping when I turned my ratchet, but the trick is to hammer that mofo onto the filter, so you can't even pull it off by hand then ratchet with breaker bar. It worked after 3-4 attempts (I win!). The FRAM one seemed to be the best tool, as it was metal and fit the tightest around Mazda's tiny filter.
One last heads up for anyone planning to do this. Mazda also elected to use an 8mm hex bolt for the drain plug (I didn't have this part on hand, greaaat). You'll need this:
http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/images/skallensocket.jpg?osCsid=kua6ikvcpgt9tmtfl3olpiejo2
After all was said and done, spent about 40$ in parts to do this oil change (not including the actual oil), whew! What an adventure.
 
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caubs, glad to hear you weren't defeated by the filter!

I just finished my first oil change today, and was concerned about the filter. Fortunately, I was able to get it off with a metal strap filter wrench. Tight fit, but got it to work.

I missed the part about the drain plug being an 8mm hex. Nevertheless, I was able to remove it with an 8mm short arm allen wrench I had (which happened to be the largest in the set!). Of course, I needed more leverage - accomplished by using a large combination wrench over the hex key.

May add the OEM cap filter wrench and allen sockets to my tool collection for future changes.
 
What always worked best for me on small filters was a pair of pliers they sell for removing radiator hoses. If that didn't work then I would bust out my giant size channel-locks. Sometimes I would use a blue-point oil 3 jaw oil filter wrench.
 
This is one of the best filter tools I've owned. It works on my CX-5, truck, and tractors.

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Thanks for the tip! The reviews on it are great and it will be on my next Amazon order.
 
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Just wanted to add a picture in case anyone was concerned. This is the F-106 installed without any adapter. There is no danger of the valve getting hit by any road obstructions.

f2SULi4.jpg

I know it's been a few months, but are you still happy with the Fumoto F-106 w/out the adapter? Pic looks great, but just want to check before I get one for our 2014 GT.
 
I have the Fumoto F-106N without the adapter but it has a nipple that I slip a plastic hose over and into the drain pan to avoid splashing - works great. Its on a GT 2.0 2013.
 
I know it's been a few months, but are you still happy with the Fumoto F-106 w/out the adapter? Pic looks great, but just want to check before I get one for our 2014 GT.

My last 5 vehicles have had Fumoto valves. No issues and they make oil changes so much easier.

I didn't use the adapter either and it works.
 
Take a screwdriver and carefully shove it through the outer casing of the filter. Use can then use it as a lever to loosen the filter. You can go all the way through if needed, just be sure to be low enough to miss the threaded shaft that extends into the filter.

Back when I worked for Chevy our grease monkey did that on my Corvair, while it drained he went for coffee, got distracked put in new oil but not a new filter :(

Besides needing a small filter wrench you'll need an 8mm Allen wrench for the drain plug.
 
If you do it right you do not need a filter wrench. Hand tighten it. I've done this for about 20 years and have never had a leak.

I agree. However "sometimes" the heat/pressure or difficulty to get my monkey arms up in there to loosen the old filter require the use of the filter wrench. I always only hand tighten, but not too much. You don't need to. High thread per inch count, the seal will be good. I go about one-half turn past a firm resistance.

Edit-03.29.14
Looks like the OEM filter is tightened pretty good. Couldn't get it off by hand. Was going to do it yesterday, and had to get a filter socket for these little filters for the cx5 since I didnt have the small size. I was able to crawl under the car no problem though. No jacking necessary. I'm 6'3" 195lbs.
 
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Just finished the first oil change on my 2014 CX-5...ridiculously easy. Why wasn't it this easy on my 3??

Mobil 1 0w-20 and a Mazda filter. It took a smidge more than 4.5 quarts. I have read varying amounts here, but 4.5 is what got it to halfway between the dots.
 
I am planning to do my next oil change in my town with a non mazda. Dealer. I live in canada and where can i buy mazda oem filter? My mazda dealer is 1.5 hr drive away and would like to buy the filter online
 

I live in Canada as well and the good news is that oilchangekits.com will ship to Canada (which is often not the case for online vendors); however, the cheapest shipping option offered is UPS standard at US$74.20 (wow!).

Therefore, kit @ US$48.20 + shipping @US$74.20 = US$122.40; converted to Cdn$135.50.

I haven't checked with dealership yet; but, I suspect it will cost about the same. Unless, we somehow get the shipping costs lowered, I don't know how viable an option oilchangekits.com is. I guess if you live near the US/Cdn border or plan it well, you could make arrangements to ship to address in US (which I'm sure will be much cheaper) and pick the products up from that US address.
 
FYI if you change the oil yourself and have the factory delivered filter (I changed my oil today at 1500 miles and I didn't bring mine to a dealer), they use a filter that has been purposely modified to not fit the replacement filter's wrench size. Yet another annoying thing about car dealers/OEMs now trying to stick it to the home gear-head. So I used a pipe wrench to loosen it until I could unscrew it by hand. They really had it tight! Could not unscrew it by hand.

But now that I have an after-market filter on there, all is good. Thankfully I had a pipe wrench large enough to get around it.

If you bring it to the dealer to have them change it - they might put a normal sized filter on there but I wouldn't know. Anyway just an FYI if you drain the oil then realize you can't get the filter off and are stuck without a car. With this delay it was about 20-25 minutes total.
 
Our 2014 CX5 with the 2.5L had the first oil change included at the dealership. Oil change #2 myself last night. Crazy easy. Probably the cleanest oil change I've ever done.

Warm change, drained for 10-15 min.
New Mazda PE01-14-302 filter.
5 Quart Castrol Edge 0W-20 jug from Walmart.

Put in all 5 quarts, and I'm at about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up between the dots on the stick.
 
I just took mine into the dealership early Saturday with an appointment set, but that did not help and it was the only day I could travel down to the dealer as I guess the other half of Atlanta Mazda owners decided as well. I ended up sitting for over an hour. The guys at the service center of the dealership were extremely nice, but I think next time and the future times I will DIY. $26 for 5QT of Castrol 0-20 synthetic is not a bad deal in comparison. I stopped by a Castrol quick lube place by work just to check and they wanted $70 to put in that same oil.

With the $20 Castrol rebate it still cost me $60 for synthetic and tire rotation at 10K mark. The next change should be about $40 after the rebate and that seems reasonable in some ways, but the wait time was a killer.

I will need ramps as I could not get under the car. I also want to get the oil pan valve for faster draining and a few Mazda filters.
 
It was the only day I could travel down to the dealer as I guess the other half of Atlanta Mazda owners decided as well. I ended up sitting for over an hour. The guys at the service center of the dealership were extremely nice, but I think next time and the future times I will DIY..

Thanks for posting, I get the first three oil changes for free. Truthfully, your explanation is exactly why I just do it myself. 25 mins each way to drive there/back plus waiting...its 60-90 minutes easily if not more of my time. At home I'm done in 20mins - most of it is waiting for the oil to drain while I am upstairs in the house doing something else. No jack required either. Oh yea, plus its much cheaper. Less gas, mileage on the car, and hassle.

I will need ramps as I could not get under the car.

I'm 6'3" 195# and can get there. It's tight but easier than jacking the car up.
 
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