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Thread: CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by GAXIBM View Post
    I ordered both based on website recommendations but have not reached oil change time to install, should be soon as I am approaching 15000 miles.
    Am I right to assume F-106 is the correct valve? CX-5 isn't specifically named in any of the Fumoto info I can find... it kind of just falls under in the "all other" catagory

  2. #62
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    This is the Mazda forum, not the Convair forum.
    Quote Originally Posted by fantomas View Post
    Am I right to assume F-106 is the correct valve? CX-5 isn't specifically named in any of the Fumoto info I can find... it kind of just falls under in the "all other" catagory

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by fantomas View Post
    Am I right to assume F-106 is the correct valve? CX-5 isn't specifically named in any of the Fumoto info I can find... it kind of just falls under in the "all other" catagory
    Yes, I found it listed but do not remember where. I will try to repost when its installed.

  4. #64
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    I contacted the manufacturer a while back, here's their response

    Dear Mr. Bopper,
    Thank you for contacting us. You will need the F106 valve. If your oil pan's drain port is recessed, you will also need an adapter extension ADP-106, but we suggest our adapter-integrated valve F106SW. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask, or visit our website for more information:
    www.qwikvalve.com/customer-service.html
    www.qwikvalve.com/faq.html
    www.qwikvalve.com/size-chart.html
    -Erin Furlong
    QWIK VALVE Customer Care
    (877)350-5584
    353 West 48th ST, Fl 3
    New York, NY 10036
    On 27.02.2013 16:34, wrote:
    -----------------------------
    YOUR NAME: Bopper
    YOUR ENGINE MODEL: Mazda Skyactive 2.5L
    2014 Mazda CX-5 2.5L Which drain plug would I need?
    OE Rear Backup Sensors, OE Bumper Guard, Flush Rear Headrests, Weathertechs, 18x8 Sparco Assetto Gara's w/ 235/60R-18 Bridgestone Dueler H/L 422 Ecopia's, Curt II Hitch, Coverking Ballistic Rear Seat Covers, China Door Sills @ Mud Flaps.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bopper View Post
    I contacted the manufacturer a while back, here's their response

    Dear Mr. Bopper,
    Thank you for contacting us. You will need the F106 valve. If your oil pan's drain port is recessed, you will also need an adapter extension ADP-106, but we suggest our adapter-integrated valve F106SW. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask, or visit our website for more information:
    www.qwikvalve.com/customer-service.html
    www.qwikvalve.com/faq.html
    www.qwikvalve.com/size-chart.html
    -Erin Furlong
    QWIK VALVE Customer Care
    (877)350-5584
    353 West 48th ST, Fl 3
    New York, NY 10036
    On 27.02.2013 16:34, wrote:
    -----------------------------
    YOUR NAME: Bopper
    YOUR ENGINE MODEL: Mazda Skyactive 2.5L
    2014 Mazda CX-5 2.5L Which drain plug would I need?
    Thanks! This is exactly what I needed to see. I didn't even know there was a "SW" version, should fit the bill perfectly the CX-5. Judging by the pictures in this thread there should be enough room between the drain hole and oil filter. As for the '12 Subaru Outback we own, I'll probably go with the short nipple as well, even though the drain opening is on the bottom of the pan and points down... and isn't well protected. No idea why there isn't a plastic skid plate on these cars... might have to fab one up.

    Anyways, thanks again! Gonna order the pair from qwikvalve.com right now..

  6. #66
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    http://www.qwikvalve.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1
    Nice... I will be ordering one up today!

  7. #67
    Registered Member Jonesey's Avatar

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    Anyone know what the spec is for the ID Crush washer?

    I used 14mm but it seemed a bit big - maybe 13mm is better

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by fantomas View Post
    Has anyone installed the fumoto valve? Just wondering if I can use the F-106N by itself, or if I actually need to use the adapter (ADP-106).
    I ordered both but installed only the F-106N on my 2013 2.0. When tight the valve handel was up, so is less likely to get bumped. Also without the ADP-106 it is shorter, stronger and less likely to be bumped, worked great.

  9. #69
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    Just wanted to add a picture in case anyone was concerned. This is the F-106 installed without any adapter. There is no danger of the valve getting hit by any road obstructions.


  10. #70
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    Great idea and definitely picking up one of those. BTW, I recently retired and drive less than 300 miles per month, do I still change my oil every 6 months? or can I stretch it to a year?

  11. #71
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    Depends entirely on if you want Mazda to cover your engine in case of a failure during the warranty period.
    If you would rather have Mazda cover the repair on their dime, then change the oil at least as frequently as the maintenance manual recommends.
    If you are willing to pay for the repair out of pocket, then change the oil whenever you want.

    It really is that simple.

    BC.

  12. #72
    Zoom Zoom Baby! KnurledNut's Avatar


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    Quote Originally Posted by ArthurDigby View Post
    Just wanted to add a picture in case anyone was concerned. This is the F-106 installed without any adapter. There is no danger of the valve getting hit by any road obstructions.
    Thanks for the pic. I ordered my mine w/ the adaptor as well.

    What are we going to do with all these extra adaptors?

  13. #73
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    I did the first oil change on my car yesterday. To my surprise there was no crush washer installed on the drain plug from the factory and man was that sucker on tight. I did put one on.
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  14. #74
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    I did the 1st oil change on my CX-5 yesterday. It's one of the smartest layouts for oil service I've ever owned, with the oil filter pointing straight down and right next to the drain plug. This allows all the oil to hit the same pan, and allows the filter to be fully pre-filled with oil prior to installing :-) I used the Mazda filter, the Mazda 0W-20 oil with moly, and replaced the crush washer. The factory plug and crush washer on mine was installed prior to the oil pan being painted, and the paint created a bond between the washer and the plug. A little side pressure on the washer with a pair of pliers snapped the paint and freed the original crush washer. I guess I was lucky it stuck to the plug and not the pan, or it would have been less obvious what had happened and I might have ended up with 2 crush washers installed. It took some torque to remove the plug, but I suspect it was the extra torque needed to crack the paint around the washer, rather than over torquing of the plug by the factory. The factory filter was not loose, but I was able to remove the factory filter without a wrench with a clean hand and a bit of grunt :-)
    I used 5 quarts of oil and the oil level is 3/4 of the way up between the minimum and the maximum fill marks, which is perfect by my standards!
    The total bill for 6 quarts of Mazda 0W-20 w/moly oil, Mazda skyactiv filter, and OEM crush washer was about $62, and I have a full quart of oil left for the next oil change, assuming that it uses as little oil on this change as it did on the factory fill.
    Thanks

    Chris W

    2014 CX-5 FWD touring

  15. #75
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    Cws - I'm confused. You say you added 5 quarts and didn't fill completely. The manual says that at most, with a filter change and the larger 2014 engine, you would use 4.8 quarts. Something seems off here. Did you let the engine sit for a while so all of the oil could move back into the pan when you checked the level? Again, according to the manual 5 qts would result in a slight overfill.

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