CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

I live in northern VA and work in the District of Columbia, so it's a lot of city traffic for my CX-5. The owner's manual, and my dealer, said to change it every 4 months or 4k for city driving. They both said 6mos/5k for country driving. I enjoyed reading this thread, thanks for all the info everyone.

Just do it every 5k miles to keep your life simple. Don't think its too little as these cars can do 7500 miles no issue between changes even 10k.

My maintenance for new cars is every 5k oil change, 10k tire rotation, 20k replace air filter.
 
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My dealer includes a free lifetime power-train warranty with all of their new vehicles. But, you have to change the oil every 4 months or 4k miles. Since I live in a small town I only put about 3k miles a year on my vehicles, so I would have to change my oil about every 1,000 miles to keep up the warranty. Also, I thought I would mention that I usually change my own oil. I got lazy last winter and took my truck to Jiffy Lube. After a couple of days I noticed a small puddle of oil on the ground under the truck. So I crawled underneath and found that the filter wasn't tightened. No more Iffy Lube for me.
 
OK so went to a diff wally, and found mobile one 0W20 and bought a fram gold. I think that one has a rubber seal. I'll take some pics this time.
 
there is not much room between the plug and filter. would not know. If you do get it post up your results.
First post updated.
 
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How did you know that the oil "that came with it" was 0w-20 Castrol Syntec? Also, I see Castrol has renamed Syntec to Castrol Edge but there are 2: "Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology" and "Castrol Edge with Titanium." Any idea which is better for the 2013 Mazda CX-5?
 
Yea,man. Fram is cr@p by pretty much all standards. Read on it and you will see what oil filter brand to use.
 
For what its worth, I picked up a stash of OEM filters from the dealer this week - $7.25 each. Asked the service guy whether it was a must to stick with the Castrol that Mazda pushes. He said the best thing to do is use the correct weight (0W20) synthetic from the manufacturer of your choice, and just change it at the intervals specified in the owner's manual. Sounded like some down-to-earth advice to me.... Also, given the lack of availability of quality aftermarket filters out there right now (I've always been a Purolator Pure One guy), I plan to stick with the OEM filters for now as long as price and availability is fairly reasonable.
 
For what its worth, I picked up a stash of OEM filters from the dealer this week - $7.25 each. Asked the service guy whether it was a must to stick with the Castrol that Mazda pushes. He said the best thing to do is use the correct weight (0W20) synthetic from the manufacturer of your choice, and just change it at the intervals specified in the owner's manual. Sounded like some down-to-earth advice to me.... Also, given the lack of availability of quality aftermarket filters out there right now (I've always been a Purolator Pure One guy), I plan to stick with the OEM filters for now as long as price and availability is fairly reasonable.

This is the best advice. Under no circumstances should any of us second guess what the Mazda Engineers have noted as being the correct oil for the car. Multiweight oils are not simply two numbers - like 0W20 - that correspond to a good lubricity and viscosity at a range of temperatures. You cant put in 0w30 and claim that it will better protect the engine at higher temperatures - there are a variety of characteristics that the 30 will change to the oil that could cause increased wear or stress.

Dont forget that various engine oils are tested to different standards, some to multiple standards, so even one manufacturer's 0w20 is not exactly the same as another's 0w20.
 
The owner's manual states that:

"Only use SAE 0W-20 oil with the
American Petroleum Institute (API)
symbol and ILSAC GF-5"

So something like Castrol Edge (I guess it's the new marketing name for syntec), the 0W30 does not have these certifications (the 0W20 does of course).

Page 2: http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/b...ts/downloads/p,q/EDGE_Black_PDS_april2011.pdf

Mobil 1 0W20 has these certifications: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-20.aspx#

Can anyone clarify which API spec the oil should have when buying the USA? Or does it not matter for oil labeled for the US market?
 
Does anyone know a part number for an oil filter? The OP mentioned 6607 (Amazon references 6607) or that he used 7317 but does anyone know the filter to use?
 
Curious, not due for an oil change yet but is their any special reset on the computer to set after you change your oil?
My Toyota has some series that included turning the key to acc and pressing the gas 3 times. This reset the computer service light countdown. Basically ever x amount of miles the oil change or service light would come on to let you know to change it, of course this trick was not in the manual but only on forums. Guess the dealers like scaring people into the shop.
 
Anyone know if this would work on the CX-5? I can't see why not particularly if you oriented it so that the lever was facing down.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

The problem with drain valves is they are prone to breaking off from hitting road debris and when that happens your engine oil drains without notice. That's why oil drain nuts are flush to the oil pan (so they do not apply leverage to the oil pan in the event of impact or grounding).

How hard is it to remove a plug during oil change?
 

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