CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

Actually, for all we know, the interior might all be the same. Until some one can dig up actual specs, no one really knows what's different. They do feel cheaper, though.

You can cut them open and compare build but what you really need most is the specs. WIX claims a PSI of 11-14 required for skyactiv engines on their 57002 filters which is in spec with the original Toyo-Roki filters.

I'd stick to any oem 302 version, Wix 57002, or Napa Gold 7002. All meet specs. Yes the Toyo-Roki version is the best in build quality but I highly doubt any of these would break. I've had excellent experience with Wix and Napa Gold filters in previous cars owned.
 
You can cut them open and compare build but what you really need most is the specs. WIX claims a PSI of 11-14 required for skyactiv engines on their 57002 filters which is in spec with the original Toyo-Roki filters.

I'd stick to any oem 302 version, Wix 57002, or Napa Gold 7002. All meet specs. Yes the Toyo-Roki version is the best in build quality but I highly doubt any of these would break. I've had excellent experience with Wix and Napa Gold filters in previous cars owned.

Damn, just threw out a used 302a, I wonder if one could buy a filter directly from Toyo-Roki?
 
Any opinions on the Mobil 1 filter for our application, M1-108? I've used Mobil 1 filters in the past and they seem to be top notch.
 
Damn, just threw out a used 302a, I wonder if one could buy a filter directly from Toyo-Roki?

Toyo-Roki for under $10: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

and here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)


Any opinions on the Mobil 1 filter for our application, M1-108? I've used Mobil 1 filters in the past and they seem to be top notch.

Good filters and you can use them but they're not the specs Mazda calls for on skyactiv engines. Basically Mazda wants 11-14 PSI with no anti drain back valve (see orange ADBV illustration) that fits a skyactiv engine. Only the OEM filters and Wix/Napa Gold meet those criteria.

timing_chain_oil_filter_drain_back_valve.jpg
 
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Here's the OEM CX-5 Allen plug on the left with an unused washer in front and the replacement 19mm hex plug on the right and it's used washer.

You can see a flat on the 19mm hex to evenly crush the AL washer when brought up to torque spec and evidence of deformation in the washer to seat against the pan. Since the hex is big, 19mm, the flange shown in a previous hex drain plug is materially present, but in effect buried in the large hex head of this plug vs a 13mm for instance.

The flange on the OEM Allen plug is slightly larger, maybe 2mm in diameter, but I didn't mic it nor the flat on the 19mm Hex plug to compare, just a guess.

Lastly, NO the OEM is NOT magnetic.
 
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Drain%20Plugs%20small_zpsjljaxynp.jpg


Here's the OEM CX-5 Allen plug on the left with an unused washer in front and the replacement 19mm hex plug on the right and it's used washer.

You can see a flat on the 19mm hex to evenly crush the AL washer when brought up to torque spec and evidence of deformation in the washer to seat against the pan. Since the hex is big, 19mm, the flange shown in a previous hex drain plug is materially present, but in effect buried in the large hex head of this plug vs a 13mm for instance.

The flange on the OEM Allen plug is slightly larger, maybe 2mm in diameter, but I didn't mic it nor the flat on the 19mm Hex plug to compare, just a guess.

Lastly, NO the OEM is NOT magnetic.
Yeah, OEM drain plug has no magnetic at the tip. I confirmed that when I had an oil change several days ago. It's black paint.

However after seeing your comparison picture which makes me believe we should keep the OEM Allen drain plug. OEM Allen drain has larger flange to make sure evenly deforming the aluminum washer with specified torque. 19mm hex drain plug actually applies more force to the aluminum washer with smaller flange area contacting the washer using the same torque, hence the inner blurred edge of your aluminum washer. My used washer doesn't show any sign of that. OEM Allen plug also has non-threaded extension (painted in black) helping us to guide the plug into the drain hole and prevent possible thread stripping during initial turn. OEM plug also has longer length of thread area which may be necessary to match the thread length of the drain hole.
 
Yeah, OEM drain plug has no magnetic at the tip. I confirmed that when I had an oil change several days ago. It's black paint.

However after seeing your comparison picture which makes me believe we should keep the OEM Allen drain plug. OEM Allen drain has larger flange to make sure evenly deforming the aluminum washer with specified torque. 19mm hex drain plug actually applies more force to the aluminum washer with smaller flange area contacting the washer using the same torque, hence the inner blurred edge of your aluminum washer. My used washer doesn't show any sign of that. OEM Allen plug also has non-threaded extension (painted in black) helping us to guide the plug into the drain hole and prevent possible thread stripping during initial turn. OEM plug also has longer length of thread area which may be necessary to match the thread length of the drain hole.

I agree with yrwei52, my OEM aluminum washer doesn't look like that either (red arrow indicates uneven load spread from the smaller flange hex bolt), I'll stick with the larger flange allen bolt that came with the car



also, I ordered from Med Mazda the moly oil and oil filter and just received the package this morning,

I ordered it thru eBay: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

they sent me a made in Japan oil filter new part number PY8W-14-302

(I thought this was suppose to be outsourced to Thailand or Mexico now ?)



Packaging pictures below, oil filter look to be high quality made and sealed, is this oil filter correct ?












UPDATE, just heard back from Med Mazda, seems they sent out the wrong part by accident,

New message from: mazdapartsmedcenter Top Rated Seller(4,546Red Star)
No you should have received part number 1WPE-14-302. We will ship you the correct oil filter out today. Sorry for the trouble.
Thank you,


seems p/n PY8W-14-302 is for the new CX-9
 
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I agree with yrwei52, my OEM aluminum washer doesn't look like that either (red arrow indicates uneven load spread from the smaller flange hex bolt), I'll stick with the larger flange allen bolt that came with the car



also, I ordered from Med Mazda the moly oil and oil filter and just received the package this morning,

I ordered it thru eBay: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

they sent me a made in Japan oil filter new part number PY8W-14-302

(I thought this was suppose to be outsourced to Thailand or Mexico now ?)



Packaging pictures below, oil filter look to be high quality made and sealed, is this oil filter correct ?












UPDATE, just heard back from Med Mazda, seems they sent out the wrong part by accident,

New message from: mazdapartsmedcenter Top Rated Seller(4,546Red Star)
No you should have received part number 1WPE-14-302. We will ship you the correct oil filter out today. Sorry for the trouble.
Thank you,


seems p/n PY8W-14-302 is for the new CX-9
Yeah, PY8W-14-302 is for SA-G 2.5L Turbo. It's wrong oil filter for our SA-G 2.5L although it should fit. And thanks for the photo pointing out the area I was referring to on aluminum washer! :)

I believe you've found 5 quarts of oil still won't make the oil level reach the Full mark of the dipstick, although the factory spec says 4.8 quarts.
 
Quote Originally Posted by Scorn View Post
Would Mobile One Synthetic 0-20 be alright to use for an oil change?

I use that same oil every oil change. No issues as of yet and at almost 50 thousand miles with oil changes every 5 thousand.

I've used Mobil 1 on many cars since 2000 and can easily get 8K miles out of an oil change, as that's all the miles I drive in a year. Just getting into the 2014 CX-5 and will do an oil change with Mobil 1 0W-20 and the Mobil 1 filter.
How many miles a year are you driving? Seems like 5K miles between changes is very aggresive.
 
Quote Originally Posted by Scorn View Post
Would Mobile One Synthetic 0-20 be alright to use for an oil change?



I've used Mobil 1 on many cars since 2000 and can easily get 8K miles out of an oil change, as that's all the miles I drive in a year. Just getting into the 2014 CX-5 and will do an oil change with Mobil 1 0W-20 and the Mobil 1 filter.
How many miles a year are you driving? Seems like 5K miles between changes is very aggresive.
It's actually my wife's car. She drives about 12 to 15 thousand miles a year. I know an oil change every 5 thousand miles is a little much but I'm anal lol. And I always use the oem mazda filter. I don't trust anything else.

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk
 
4 rules I'd recommend:

Rule 1: Any oil that says "Dexos" and "0w20" on the bottle can be used.
Rule 2. Fanboyism is allowed. Select oil as per Rule 1 and based on cool packaging, names, ect.
Rule 3: Follow the manual's oil change interval based on your region.
Rule 4: Use OEM or OEM spec oil filters.
 
I did some reading over the weekend on oils after seeing Mobil 1's new 20K or 1 year OCI capable oil at Walmart the other day (it costs almost $50 for 5 qts!), and I came across this:

https://www.oronite.com/products/lspi.asp

It talks about the effects of Low Speed PreIgnition (LSPI) and the type of oil being used.

In short, for our high compression DI engines, it's best to go with a high quality synthetic oil with high molybdenum (MoS2) content that also uses a detergent low in calcium (Ca).

(If this information has been mentioned before, I apologize.)

The Mazda 0W20 with Moly vs the Mobil 1 & 200ml MoS2 shows that the Mazda Moly has high MoS2 content, but has almost double the Ca content of Mobil 1. Makes question whether or not the Mazda w/ Moly is best for our engines?

I will continue to experiment with Mobil 1 or Pennzoil with the addition of Liqui Moly MoS2.
Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) indeed has been brought up in this oil dilution thread:

2.5L Oil level fluctuation

My wife's CX-5 is seeing lots of short trips, and indeed the oil level goes up. Used oil analysis shows fuel dilution, as expected.
Reading about this I came across the condition that is called Low Speed Pre-Ignition, LSPI. Evidently, this only affects DI engines and is much more detrimental then regular pre-ignition that causes pinging. LSPI can't be detected by the knock sensor, so OEMs are dealing with it by dumping fuel under conditions that MAY cause LSPI, making it impossible to happen. Hence, most of the DI engines have fuel dilution problem, the fuel just burns off during long drives in fully warmed-up engine. No such luck for us short-trippers...
The hole keeps getting deeper and more stuff keeps coming out about this.. Click on the lubrication tab on this link and see what it says about moly oils
https://www.oronite.com/products/lspi.asp
 
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