CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

one question, did anyone do this without ramps ? I tried but there wasn't enough space for me....

I just put a short length of 2x4 on the garage floor in front of the front tires and drive up on that. It's tight, but gives me enough room under there to get the job done.
 
My parts for DIY oil changes:

FUMOTO drain valve F106S with nipple, L-tube and hose kit. I like using the tube for a very clean drain into my oil pan. I know there's debate regarding all the oil not extracted but no biggie for me. Especially as the drain location is on the corner edge of the pan. Perfect for angle draining (ramps, hydraulic jacks, ect.)

FloTool 42003MI Drain Container, 16 quart. Cheap and reliable. Easy to carry. Available at Wal-Mart.

Pennzoil - Oil Filter Wrench. While I was discarding used oil at a local O-Reilly's I also brought my used oil filter to test fit oil wrenches. Pennzoil makes a universal oil filter wrench that fit snugly with the skyactiv filter. Used it for 2 oil changes now. Don't have the part# because I threw away the packaging.

Large Ziplock bag: I place the Pennzoil wrench which is attached to my ratchet, into the ziplock bag. I break the filter loose and the ziplock collects oil spilage. I have gloves of course since its kind of hot. Then quickly move the bag with old filter atop the drain container. This allows my hands to not touch any old oil and helps minimize splashed oil.

Funnel: Forgot the brand and model but its large enough for me to rest the entire 5-quart container in it.

Scepter 08226 Plastic Automotive Ramp Set: Excellent construction with 12,000 pound weight per set. Made in Canada. Aprox 8 inch lift. Doesn't move when driven over.

Wheel chokes: Cheap solid rubber ones from Harbor Freight.


***Want to purchase***
- Foldable Creeper/stool for oil changes or car detailing
- A large drip tray
- Jack stands
 
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FUMOTO drain valve F106S with nipple, L-tube and hose kit. I like using the tube for a very clean drain into my oil pan. I know there's debate regarding all the oil not extracted but no biggie for me. Especially as the drain location is on the corner edge of the pan. Perfect for angle draining (ramps, hydraulic jacks, ect.)

Thanks CX-5um, I;m thinking about getting the Fumoto, how long does it take the old oil to drain completely vs the OEM plug ?
 
Thanks CX-5um, I;m thinking about getting the Fumoto, how long does it take the old oil to drain completely vs the OEM plug ?

I did not compare tbh. I usually let it drain and do other things like change my cabin filter, inspect the engine air filter, vacuum the car, wipe down the rims, ect.

That said I found this on the FAQ section:

Q: Does the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve protrude into the oil pan and impede drainage of the engine oil?

A: No. Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valves are designed to fit individual drain pan specifications and in almost every situation will not extend into the drain pan. However, replacement or aftermarket oil pans may differ from the original oil pan specification and as a result the valve stem may protrude further into oil pan than normal.


^^^That just puts a smile on my face.
 
I did not compare tbh. I usually let it drain and do other things like change my cabin filter, inspect the engine air filter, vacuum the car, wipe down the rims, ect.

That said I found this on the FAQ section:

Q: Does the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve protrude into the oil pan and impede drainage of the engine oil?

A: No. Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valves are designed to fit individual drain pan specifications and in almost every situation will not extend into the drain pan. However, replacement or aftermarket oil pans may differ from the original oil pan specification and as a result the valve stem may protrude further into oil pan than normal.


^^^That just puts a smile on my face.
I don't think that statement is true as I've seen someone took oil pan off from a CX-5 with Fumoto drain valve and found it indeed protrudes into the oil pan and impedes complete drainage of engine oil. The picture showed it at least has " ~ ⅓" of valve thread extended into the oil pan. With a half narrower diameter passage for oil drain, the time for complete oil drain should be longer too. That's why I don't use Fumoto drain valve and I still prefer the old fashioned way draining the oil.
 
⋯ for those interested, here are the p/n's off the packing list:
oil filter : PE01-14-302A
Can you confirm the p/n of your OEM oil filter from Med Center Mazda actually is 1WPE-14-302 from Thailand instead of PE01-14-302A from Japan? I just got an OEM oil filter from my Mazda dealer and Mazda parts system has superseded Japan made PE01-14-302A to Thailand made 1WPE-14-302.

1WPE-14-302 oil filter ???

We appreciate your detailed oil change write-up with many pictures and a picture is worth a thousand words! BTW, I use Craftsman ⅜" drive 8mm hex bit socket for drain plug so that I can conveniently use a ratchet or use a torque wrench if I want to.
prod_1955550012
 
............ I've seen someone took oil pan off from a CX-5 with Fumoto drain valve and found it indeed protrudes into the oil pan and impedes complete drainage of engine oil. The picture showed it at least has " ~ ⅓" of valve thread extended into the oil pan. With a half narrower diameter passage for oil drain, the time for complete oil drain should be longer too. That's why I don't use Fumoto drain valve and I still prefer the old fashioned way draining the oil.

This is true, see here http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/252226-mythbusters-fumoto-engine-oil-drain-valve.html
 
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Hi yrwei, the oil filter from Med Mazda is PE01-14-302A from Japan.
Thanks! I guess Med Center Mazda still has some old stock of oil filter left. I went to their website and PE01-14-302A has also got superseded by 1WPE-14-302.
 
Thanks! I guess Med Center Mazda still has some old stock of oil filter left. I went to their website and PE01-14-302A has also got superseded by 1WPE-14-302.

thanks for heads up, prefer Japan made but if Thailand made is still to Mazda specs, I'll use those, I rather stick with what's made for the Skyactiv engines, I checked Amazon and they still have the Japan ones listed.... one interesting comment from the reviews:

......Mazda oil filter designed for the SkyActive engines in your cars. The bypass valve is set to a higher pressure than typical aftermarket filters. So don't skimp, get the filter engineered for your car.


not sure how true this is, but I'll stick with the Skyactiv filter, who knows what will happen if one of those cheap non-oem aftermarket paper filters start disintegrating, I don't want to risk it....
 
Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve

Very informative link about Fumoto drain valve although this "Mythbusters: Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve" is for a 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi:
NateCal said:
Myth #1- The Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve, once installed, extends into the oil pan so that it is not flush and could allow for build up of unwanted particles inside the pan.

So as far as Myth #1 goes, it is:
The Fumoto valve extends aprox 1/8" to 3/16" into the oil pan.

Myth #2- Due to Myth #1, metal shavings and other particles will remain in the oil pan when using the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve to change your engine oil.

Plausible!

Also this observation is consistent with the statement I saw before for the CX-5 with a Fumoto drain valve:
NateCal said:
To me, that says the 1/8" to 3/16" of the valve extended inside the pan is NOT stopping the oil from bringing all the crap out with it when it is draining.

However, I cleaned my oil pan again, and planned to remove the Fumoto valve and flush a full quart of fresh oil through just to see what else would come out without the valve installed.

When I removed the valve I was kinda of shocked by the amount of oil that was still in the oil pan. There was probably a good 10 second stream of oil that came out once the valve was removed.

Then I ran the full quart of fresh oil through (without the valve installed). I then repeated the process of carefully dumping the oil, leaving the crap behind, to examine the oil pan. And the was NOTHING. The pan was clean as a whistle. Everything came out when I initially drained the oil using the valve. Even with the little oil that was trapped in the pan by the Fumoto valve.

nutcore said:
thank you for some actual evidence Nate. It's good to know that Fomoto lies to your face claiming that the threads don't extend into the pan.
Q. Does my Engine Oil Drain Valve protrude into the interior of the oil pan and prevent full drainage of my engine oil?

A. No. The threaded oil drain plug hole is always reinforced to accept the threaded bolt of the drain plug. In most cases, the Engine Oil Drain Valve will not extend past this threaded portion of the drain hole and will allow the oil to be properly drained. Your Engine Oil Drain Valve will let you drain your engine oil while it is hot without burning your hands and it is much more effective than trying to pump the oil out from above.
 
just did my first oil change, and agreed with other CX-5 owners : the easiest oil job ever.
one question, did anyone do this without ramps ? I tried but there wasn't enough space for me....

only hiccup was I had a very hard time getting the old aluminum crush washer off the drain plug flange, it was really stuck on there, I had to use an xacto knife blade to separate the old crush washer from the drain plug.

note: I can easily see for any first timer to think that there is no crush washer or if they lost the crush washer when it's actually there stuck on the plug flange, I thought the same thing it looked like one piece and the crush washer was missing, but when I compared the new crush washer supplied by Med center Mazda versus the drain plug, I can clearly see the crush washer stuck on there. I used a miniature flat blade screwdriver but that didn't work so I used an Xacto knife to get that damn thing off. I hope no one doubled up on the crush washers thinking the original crush washer was part of the drain plug.

did my this morning, and sure enough same thing happened to me the OEM crush washer was stuck to the plug really tight, thanks for the heads up Tomcat1446, if I wasn;t paying attention I would have doubled up on the crush washer..... I had to use an xacto knife blade like you to separate the washer from the plug...
 
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does that hex head plug from Med Mazda have a magnet ?
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-plug-washer.html can't tell from the picture
tomcat's picture of the plug that came with the car clearly shows a magnet to catch any metal shavings
also, it has a black finish coating on it to protect from rust

just out of curiosity, how does the Fumoto valve deal with metal shavings since there's no magnet and the valve stays in ?

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does that hex head plug from Med Mazda have a magnet ?
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-plug-washer.html can't tell from the picture
tomcat's picture of the plug that came with the car clearly shows a magnet to catch any metal shavings
also, it has a black finish coating on it to protect from rust

just out of curiosity, how does the Fumoto valve deal with metal shavings since there's no magnet and the valve stays in ?
If I remember it correctly, the black end tip of the OEM Allen drain plug is not a magnet. It's black paint applied from inside of the oil pan while the drain plug is installed and stick out. But I could be wrong as I didn't test it while the plug was out.

zjh6bb.jpg


Hex head oil drain plug should be a flange bolt with larger diameter rim to apply even pressure to the soft aluminum crush washer:

probka-sliva-masla-pr-vo-blue-print-md050316-ada100104_6acd4f5f55ee260_200x200.jpg


But if the picture shown is correct by Med Center Mazda, the hex head oil drain plug is not to be a good drain plug as the hex head doesn't have larger diameter rim to cover the aluminum crush washer unless the washer is very narrow:

genuine-mazda-oil-pan-plug-with-washer-15.jpg


I don't like Fumoto valve for the fact that they're lying to our face claiming that the threads don't extend into the oil pan. It may be a little convenient to drain the oil, but it definitely will prevent draining out old oil and metal shavings more completely which is something I really don't like.
 
When I used a Fumoto valve on my Subaru, owners used to file a notch in the threads so that 99.5% of all the crankcase oil drained out. Ed
 
I use a Fumoto on two Subies, and have one for the CX-5. You're talking about a thimble-full of oil in the depression of the oil pan, that the longer Fumoto might block. I let my engines drain for 60 minutes, and they still drip, drip, drip after all that time, with a hot engine. If there's metal chunks in the oil pan, they will drop out on the first drain with the stock oil plug. (But only if they are right next to the drain plug hole. There isn't enough speed of flow an inch or more away to wash a chunk of metal out of the pan). Any chunks created after that point means your engine is going to fail anyway...

I guess it's now normal forum behavior (every forum) for some people to obsess. I see it on equipment review, cycles, photo gear, flashlights, etc. sites.
 
does that hex head plug from Med Mazda have a magnet ?
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-plug-washer.html can't tell from the picture

No answer for you, have to wait until the next oil change.


tomcat's picture of the plug that came with the car clearly shows a magnet to catch any metal shavings
also, it has a black finish coating on it to protect from rust.

Maybe 'clearly' in speculation, but in reality it is NOT a magnetic plug. I just went to the garage to check.

Regarding rust, can't see how it would rust in the pan with the oil on it. Not to worried about the outside.
 
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Hex head oil drain plug should be a flange bolt with larger diameter rim to apply even pressure to the soft aluminum crush washer:


But if the picture shown is correct by Med Center Mazda, the hex head oil drain plug is not to be a good drain plug as the hex head doesn't have larger diameter rim to cover the aluminum crush washer unless the washer is very narrow:

Good point. Got an oil change coming up in a couple weeks. Will get back on this with pics of both. Well, if I remember...
 
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I use a Fumoto on two Subies, and have one for the CX-5. You're talking about a thimble-full of oil in the depression of the oil pan, that the longer Fumoto might block. I let my engines drain for 60 minutes, and they still drip, drip, drip after all that time, with a hot engine. If there's metal chunks in the oil pan, they will drop out on the first drain with the stock oil plug. (But only if they are right next to the drain plug hole. There isn't enough speed of flow an inch or more away to wash a chunk of metal out of the pan). Any chunks created after that point means your engine is going to fail anyway...

I guess it's now normal forum behavior (every forum) for some people to obsess. I see it on equipment review, cycles, photo gear, flashlights, etc. sites.

Did you have to buy the adapter for the drain valve to fit?

I sold my 9-5 Saab with 186K miles and always changed the oil with the Fumoto. Getting a Saab to 186K is not an easy task. They have been known to have sludge issues.
 
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