CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

my 18' cx5 is also with a flange hex bolt type plug.
Havent changed 1st oil yet but I looked.
So assuming all new cx5 now use this type.
I believe Mazda changed drain plug to flange hex bolt type when they modified the SA-G 2.5L with cylinder deactivation in 2018 CX-5 MY.

I also believe SA-G 2.5T on 2019 CX-5 keeps original Allen hex keyed drain plug as there's no change to the engine.
 
I'm coming up on my first oil change soon. What is the difference between resetting the Maintenance Monitor after an oil change and resetting the engine oil data on the ECU? I see two different procedures listed in my owner's manual, 9 pages apart - both indicate they need to be done. Does resetting the Maintenance Monitor accomplish both, or are these actually two separate procedures I need to do?

Thanks.
There're 2 reset methods because there're 2 different types of instrument cluster. Your CX-5 GT has Type B cluster and you use Vehicle Status Monitor app in infotainment to reset 3 independent maintenance intervals. For oil change, you reset "Oil Change" tab only. The "Scheduled" tab listed on top has nothing to do with oil change. Make sure to choose Flexible OCI for Oil Change.

BTW, you should have Flexible OCI from factory unless your dealer or you changed it. What is your current oil life left indicated in miles?

I understand some Canadian CX-5 owners are having trouble to reset Oil Change maintenance monitor and I believe it's because Mazda doesn't allow Flexible OCI in Canada, and they screwed up the software programming when Mazda disabled the Flexible feature.
 
There're 2 reset methods because there're 2 different types of instrument cluster. Your CX-5 GT has Type B cluster and you use Vehicle Status Monitor app in infotainment to reset 3 independent maintenance intervals. For oil change, you reset "Oil Change" tab only.

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I understand the difference between the Type A and Type B Maintenance Monitors, and how to do the various resets on my GT's Type B Monitor.

What I was really asking about is the separate set of instructions (located 9 pages after the MM reset instructions) titled "Vehicle Engine Control Unit Reset Procedure." There's no mention of Type A vs Type B monitors and it states that this procedure must be done after each oil change. However, the steps sound the same as the Type A MM reset, so I guess that I'm good with the Type B reset. It's a little confusing that this is listed separately and titled differently - it makes it sound like a separate procedure. Was just looking for confirmation/clarification.

Thanks again.
 
Did my first oil change today.Here are some pics.

original japan filter vs thailand one that is currently sold by the dealers.

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the new oil plug for 2.5NA part no. if anybody is interested.
I got a spare just in case.

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and this is going for oil analysis.
I will post in the uoa thread once ready.
Surprisingly the oil was very dirty for 3000 miles and 5 months.I guess local heat takes its toll. We'll see

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Oil filter and plug were very easy to unscrew.
oil drain plug washer doesnt compress too much but seems good so far.

The thailand oem filter is very nice because it has markings just how much to rotate/tighten.
 
Did my first oil change today.Here are some pics.

The thailand oem filter is very nice because it has markings just how much to rotate/tighten.
Thanks for the posts. Im not sure what do you mean by having the markings on OEM Thai oil filter?

Getting a new drain plug as a spare is something I wouldnt do. But Im surprised the spare plug you got is made in Japan.

Did you use a new aluminum washer or not?

And I should get a more flexible oil filter wrench like you did, as my OEM cap oil filter wrench wont work on smaller OEM Thai filter.
 
The thai oil filter I got has a line around the filter housing with numbers 1 4 2 3 and instructions on it how to tighten it accordingly. The numbers are used for visual reference how much to rotate it when installing it. Its partially seen on the second pic above. I found it very helpful.

Yes, l used a new washer.
Also the old one (factory washer) took some time to get off the plug because it was painted black (assuming they paint the whole pan at factory with plug inserted) and was stuck to the plug. Easily removal of old washer can be missed if a person does not look closely.

The new drain plug is the same as the factory one (the new type). costly too at around 6$ but I like to have spares like additional filter and washers just in case :)
 
The thai oil filter I got has a line around the filter housing with numbers 1 4 2 3 and instructions on it how to tighten it accordingly. The numbers are used for visual reference how much to rotate it when installing it. Its partially seen on the second pic above. I found it very helpful.

Yes, l used a new washer.
Also the old one (factory washer) took some time to get off the plug because it was painted black (assuming they paint the whole pan at factory with plug inserted) and was stuck to the plug. Easily removal of old washer can be missed if a person does not look closely.

The new drain plug is the same as the factory one (the new type). costly too at around 6$ but I like to have spares like additional filter and washers just in case :)
Always learn something everyday! I have an OEM Thai oil filter among my Mazda OEM oil filter collections, and I seem to remember these numbers you're referring to. But I didn't know what are those used for only thought they're for manufacturing process. I like to stock maintenance parts too. For my CX-5 I still have 21 Tokyo Roki Japanese oil filters、1 Denso Thai filter、and 1 Mexican Value filter!

Yeah that black painting on both sides of oil pan with drain plug on does cause some confusion. Some thought there's no washer from factory, others thought the drain plug has magnetic at the end as it also got painted in black.

⋯ only hiccup was I had a very hard time getting the old aluminum crush washer off the drain plug flange, it was really stuck on there, I had to use an xacto knife blade to separate the old crush washer from the drain plug.

note: I can easily see for any first timer to think that there is no crush washer or if they lost the crush washer when it's actually there stuck on the plug flange, I thought the same thing it looked like one piece and the crush washer was missing, but when I compared the new crush washer supplied by Med center Mazda versus the drain plug, I can clearly see the crush washer stuck on there. I used a miniature flat blade screwdriver but that didn't work so I used an Xacto knife to get that damn thing off. I hope no one doubled up on the crush washers thinking the original crush washer was part of the drain plug.

with regards to crush washer, I noticed there was a smooth stamped side and a sharp edge burr side due to the stamping process, I made sure the smooth side is up against the oil tank to prevent scratching /rusting
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Since the new drain plug is made in Japan, I'm not surprised it costs $6! At least it's a right one, as some had bought the older version of OEM hex-headed drain bolt which doesn't have the flange.

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And you changed your factory oil at 2,724 miles, but what is your manufacture date and purchase date of your 2018 CX-5? What did the oil life monitor say in miles you need to change the oil under Flexible Oil Change Schedule?
 
Yeah, I've had to use exacto knives to remove the old crush washers before too. I wonder if I torqued it down too much?

On that front, I'll agree with you Yrwei that I wish they gave more specific torque numbers instead of ranges.
 
I like this, it's on sale now for $2.50
At local WalMart store or online?

Edit: Shipping cost is $5.99 and not available for local pickup *
 
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You're right, I didn't look into it further. $8 total. I still want it.
Yeah, it looks functional but not as bulky. It'd be one of the candidate of my next oil filter wrench if I need a new one for different sizes.
 
While looking for OEM oil filter for my newly acquired 2018 Toyota Yaris iA (rebadged Mazda2), I found Toyota's OEM p/n 90118-WBA40 oil filter for Yaris iA / Scion iA is rebadged Mazda (Nippon) Denso Thai filter 1WPE-14-302! 25% of Denso now owned by Toyota. So there's an alternative getting better quality Mazda OEM Thai oil filter from different sources may be with lower price.
Good information! Thank you.
 
While looking for OEM oil filter for my newly acquired 2018 Toyota Yaris iA (rebadged Mazda2), I found Toyota's OEM p/n 90118-WBA40 oil filter for Yaris iA / Scion iA is rebadged Mazda (Nippon) Denso Thai filter 1WPE-14-302! 25% of Denso now owned by Toyota. So there's an alternative getting better quality Mazda OEM Thai oil filter from different sources may be with lower price.

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While looking for OEM oil filter for my newly acquired 2018 Toyota Yaris iA (rebadged Mazda2), I found Toyota's OEM p/n 90118-WBA40 oil filter for Yaris iA / Scion iA is rebadged Mazda (Nippon) Denso Thai filter 1WPE-14-302! 25% of Denso now owned by Toyota. So there's an alternative getting better quality Mazda OEM Thai oil filter from different sources may be with lower price.

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Funny, I thought they were off shoots of Scion, being a genuine Toyota. I was looking at a Yaris a few months ago when I found my Xb. I wonder if Mazda would have a warranty issue with these on a CX 5?
 
Funny, I thought they were off shoots of Scion, being a genuine Toyota. I was looking at a Yaris a few months ago when I found my Xb. I wonder if Mazda would have a warranty issue with these on a CX 5?
Oh look at the interior of a Yaris, definitely Mazda.

Edit: Just looked up pics, maybe I'm thinking of something else? Hmm...
 
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