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Thread: CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

  1. #1
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    CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

    Did not search too hard to see if this thread exists. But here I go anyway.

    0W20 oil or 5W20 in a pinch. 4.4 quarts. Fram oil filter 6607.

    Its the second door from the front in the under cover. It takes two Phillips screws or 10mm sockets AND one fingernail. First pop the plastic pop rivet by pulling down on the center circle and then pull out. Next unscrew the 10mm/Phillips bolts. After that you have to bow the plastic in the center and the door will come down with out breaking the tabs that hold it in place. I recommend using the screw driver on the screws as they only screw into the plastic and can strip very easily.


    First remove the filter. Before putting on the new filter remove the 8mm drain plug. (Make sure to wait for all the oil to drain out. do this in the am before the car is driven. That way there is no oil up in the head. Being that it is 0W oil it should take approx one beer to completely drain out.) Snug up the plug. I say snug cause it has a aluminum washer that can get easily distorted if tightened too tight. Then replace with your choice of filter making sure to oil up the gasket before installation and hand tighten.


    Reinstall door by bowing the door and sliding in all the tabs into place. next reinstall bolts and pushing in plastic rivet. Next open up oil filler cap and fill 4.4 quarts. Close cap then start car. Stop car and check oil level.

    I used 0W20 Mobile 1. I also used Fram gold 7317 and .1 more quart of oil to make up the size of the filter.
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    Last edited by iracemine; 05-07-2016 at 09:19 AM.

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    Registered Member kampfire's Avatar

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    I don't think its a very good idea to switch to 0w-30. 0w-20 is available almost everywhere so why risk the switch? I'm sticking with what came in it and its 0w-20 Castrol Syntec. Also the aluminum washer needs to be replaced with every oil change. Third why not get the OEM filter from the dealer for now? They are like $6 and would give alot more piece of mind over the Fram. Other than that thanks for the write up.
    Mine: 2011 VW GTI
    Wife's: 2013 Mazda CX-5 FWD Touring w/ Tech package

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    Registered Member erhayes's Avatar
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    I am a big fan of using the type of oil the manufactures recomends, at least during the waraanty period. I too like to use OEM filters for at least the full breakin period of say 10K miles.

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    I had some pics posted of underneath the car here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...t=#post5917938

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    Quote Originally Posted by iracemine View Post
    Did not search too hard to see if this thread exists. But here I go anyway.

    0W20 oil or 5W20 in a pinch. 4.4 quarts. Fram oil filter 6607.

    Its the second door from the front in the under cover. It takes two Phillips screws or 10mm sockets AND one fingernail. First pop the plastic pop rivet by pulling down on the center circle and then pull out. Next unscrew the 10mm/Phillips bolts. After that you have to bow the plastic in the center and the door will come down with out breaking the tabs that hold it in place.

    Next use a 8mm allen to remove the oil pan drain. Drain. While your waiting for that go ahead and remove the filter. Re install oil pan drain to snug. I say snug cause it has a aluminum washer that can get easily distorted if tightened too tight. Replace with your choice of filter making sure to oil up the gasket before installation and hand tighten. (Make sure to wait for all the oil to drain out. do this in the am before the car is driven. That way there is no oil up in the head. Being that it is 0W oil it should take approx one beer to completely drain out.)

    Reinstall door by bowing the door and sliding in all the tabs into place. next reinstall bolts and pushing in plastic rivet. Next open up oil filler cap and fill 4.4 quarts. Close cap then start car. Stop car and check oil level.

    I could not find 0W20 at wally world so I used 0W30 Mobile 1. I also used Fram 7317 and .1 more quart of oil to make up the size of the filter. Also getting off the Mazda filter with out a filter wrench was next to imposable until I jacked up one side and I was able to get a strangle hold on it with two hand and then it was still slow to come off.

    Pics to come later. Please help if I missed something.
    For warranty reasons you better use what they specify to use. If your engine blows and they see you're using the wrong oil you're SOL. You probably won't harm the engine and may lose a fraction of gas mileage, but....
    2007 CX9
    Grand Touring -- wishing it wasn't AWD - well, now it is.

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    hrmm, i'll have to check another wally for the right oil. Can anyone tell me the difference between those oil numbers???

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    I would not sweat using 0w30. You can do some reasearch on the web on Oils. As for numbers, they refer to viscosity; a measure of how thick the oil remains over temperature increases. Single grade oils have one number (30W, 40W). Multigrade oils have 2 numbers (5W20, 0W30, 10W30...). The first number refers to how thick the oil is when cold and the second refers to how thick the oil is when hot. These are not linear numbers. All oils get thick when cold and thin when hot (to varying degrees). What 0W30 means is an oil is as thick as a single 0 weight oil would be when cold and gets as thin as a single 30 weight oil would be when hot. As long as the first number is the same as what is recommended for your car, the oil will flow through your engine as designed. A higher second number can offer some level of greater oil protection at high temperatures. I would DISCOURAGE using a different leading number than is recommended for your car. Use a 5W30 oil in an old car designed for 10W30 and your engine will wear due to insufficient film thickness. Use a 10W30 oil in a car designed for 0W30 and the oil will be too thick at low temperatures to be pumped through the engine until the engine gets warm enough the thin the oil. It's all about maintaining the proper oil film thickness between moving parts of the engine. Look here http://www.ideas4ag-ed.com/uploads/3..._viscosity.pdf for more info or search the web for "SAE" and "motor oil".

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    One more thing... Do some reseach on Oil filters. Fram is about one of the worst filters you can use. Several universities and oil professionals have done studies where they bisect oil filters to see how they are made, how much filter material they have and how good the filter material is (how small the particals are they will filter out measured in microns). Fram uses cardboard (yes I said cardboard) constructing interla parts of their oil filters; in particular the pressure relief valve. This valve lets unfiltered oil into your engine when the oil filter gets clogged. Mounting this valve on cardboard (which usually operates in the 20 - 30 PSI range) allows for all kinds of warping and leaking. There's actually a commercial on TV showing this (can't remember the oil filter brand but they show you the cardboard inside a Fram filter compared to their metal backing plate). No other filter manufacturer that I have read about uses cardboard except Fram. Every other oil filter tested in the reports I read was rated better than Fram. Personally, I've used Walmart filters (made by Champion) for years. Mobil1 filters, if you can afford them, were rated one of the best.

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    Registered Member erhayes's Avatar
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    5w30 for old cars or old designs? I think not. My 2007 Mazda CX7 requires 5w30 oil and no exceptions. I don't use Fram Orange can filters any more but, only because there seems to be better filters avail for the same or lower price. The cardboard that people refer to is really a honeycomb sandwich and it has served hundreds of thousands of motorists for decades. I prefer OEM/MC or WIX/Napa myself. Ed

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    The point was NOT to use 5W30 in an older car that was designed for 10W30/40 (or any other oil the has a differrent cold viscosity measure than what is recommended for your car). You would have issues maintaining proper film layer and pressure throughout the engine due the oil leaking through the larger tolerances. As for Fram filters, you are correct that the cardboard is, in fact, a honeycomb material that is supposed to work ok for what it does. From what I've read, few that have done studies on filters agree with Fram on this. Fram is the only company I know of that does this. If the honeycomb material Fram uses was that good, wouldn't others be using it too instead of using metal? I personally don't trust is. Cardboard usually does not do well in liquids. Honeycomb not withstanding, you are relying on a coating on the cardboard to prevent the oil for breaking the cardboard down. To each his own. There used to be a very good reference on the web called "The Oil Bible" that went into great detail about oil and filters. It's good reading.

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    I use/like the fram because of the material they put on the outside and the price at walmart. I wonder if there is any other filter out there that uses the same type material? Or are we forced to use a filter wrench?

    I have also heard about the cardboard thing too, but also have figured that they have sold millions of filters and continue to do so. I have never had any problems with any of my cars and family's cars. BUT if there is a filer that has that grit on the outside I have NO loyalty to fram and would easily change.

    Thanks for the link! Good info.

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    purolator, (much better) uses the material now too. If you do it right you do not need a filter wrench. Hand tighten it. I've done this for about 20 years and have never had a leak. I don't like the material, because it makes it hard to wipe off when you're done.
    I've seen the purolators meijer.
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    +1

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    Registered Member V8toilet's Avatar

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    I used to build engines and was an ASE Master certified tech years ago. I can guess from what I've learned over the years that Mazda engineers specified 0W-20W synthetic oil because they are trying to reduce engine friction and as a result increase MPG. In order to do that they have to use really tight bearing clearances. if you use 0W-30W oil than in effect the engine is trying to force a thicker oil into a smaller space (designed for 20W oil) when the engine is warned up. Last I checked (someone correct me) the owners manual Mazda recommends 0W-20W and 5W-20W in a pinch if 0W-20W isn't available. I appreciate the time you took to write this up but think you should promptly remove the oil you put in and install what Mazda engineers recommend in its place. You may be fine but then again do you want to be the guinea pig with the 22,000 car that has a 13-1 compression ratio engine in it. (whistle) Just think you increased the viscosity of the oil (when hot) by only 50% (20*.5=10) in a brand new engine.
    Last edited by V8toilet; 05-07-2012 at 09:54 PM.

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    http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/...ilFilters.aspx

    Neat! Thanks for the tip! I will be grabbing one of these and I guess some Castrol Syntec. I guess I should plop one in my car too. I wonder if Moble1 will make 0w20??

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