Slotege KLZE Swap Thread Take #2

I have a P5. Im guessin the amount of room under the hood is the same. You mentioned that the probe guys are running turbos on the more stock K motors... Is there enough room to turbo the K in my P5. Id rather save the money to have to build up the four and have a lightly boosted K motor.
Thoughts?

There's room enough. I used the ebay KOSpeed turbo kit and the only modification I had to do was the downpipe. It was entirely too close and fabbed up pretty shoddy anyways:
 
Finally subbed to this beauty. Unfortunately most of your original info got deleted, would've helped with all the random questions.
 
You've got the best looking A3E red 99-00 protege I know!

Hope you keep that beauty long enough to give me the chance to meet you in some MOM !
 
So, I am finally documenting the TB setup to fit a straight neck in a protege without modification to the manifold, or Master Cylinder or its Reservoir.

I took the manifold off to replace the valve cover gaskets that started to leak. So, I figured I should finally do this as it is the most common question I get.

Video:

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...308&authkey=!APZmz8-7TPqvvGM&ithint=video,mp4

Pics (Comparing a KL01 Stock TB to the Modified KL31 TB, the KL31 looked the same as the KL01 in regards to linkage):





 
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Joost, first off awesome build! I will be looking back at this for a while to try and get the parts and talk about issues that come up once i get started on mine (its going to be a while lol). A question for you, and others who might know. If someone did the KLDE instead of the ZE is it possible to keep everything with the OBDII rather than converting it to OBDI? I was just wondering since I know the biggest hassle with the swap is the wiring and was wondering if there was an easier solution to it.

Thanks!
 
ODB2 is all ECU related The motor doesnt make any difference. There is no issue running a ODB2 ZE. And thats actually the best set up as an ODB2 can easily do the Millenia Maf conversion, and that mixed with a true ZE is a nasty combo!
 
Well....A true KLZE on OBDII will not have the right VRIS points, which will loose some power and torque. The Millenia MAF vs ZE/DE VAF isnt any better unless your boosted. If your boosting, then best bet is to go Megasquirt and then OBDI and OBDII are out the window.

A ZE was never made in OBDII form, but it is correct that all the OBDII sensors can be adapted to the ZE to run a OBDII harness and ECU. Your best bet would be to source a donor KLDE/KLG4 OBDII car and take the engine, full harness(engine and behind dash out), trans, etc...and start prepping it for the swap. You could then source some KLZE heads, cams, IM(KLG4 manifold is pretty damn good though and with KLG4 ecu it is better than ZE w/ DE/G4 ecu). And just make a hybrid DE/G4/ZE engine and run it with OBDII sensors, harness, ecu. Then when your done run the wires and OBDII connector from the donor car to replace the protege's and then you can work on making sure the ECU gets all it wants to pass emissions.

I know I am jumping all over, but the short answer is yes a OBDII swap can be done and should pass emissions.
 
The stock Vaf set up's tuning is borderline brain dead as it has a preset tune at anything more then 1/2 throttle and doesnt take any information to tune on the fly. Which the Millenia Maf set up does. This has been dyno proven. I HIGHLY recommend you read the Maf conversion thread on Probetalk. Its over 60 pages deep at this point with years of research, and over 100 different cars done. There's even dyno comparisons on the same car showing theres like a 18hp gain peak in the mid range.

You can tell a major difference even just at idle. The VAF ecu idle is very choppy. It almost sounds like it has a miss to most mechanics. The Maf ecu on the other hand is dead nuts smooth. It just does a much better job at tuning as it actually makes adjustments based off its inputs, compared to the Vaf which generally ignores them.
 
No doubt it does a better job, and I have been familiar with the MAF conversion for a long while, while that thread has high claims for it, there are just as many threads on MX6.com and other KL platform forums showing mediocre increases. I know its been known for a long time that the MAF is better for boosting, but N/A is still up in the air IMO. PT is a great place, but its not the end all be all of the KL world.
 
Well....A true KLZE on OBDII will not have the right VRIS points, which will loose some power and torque. The Millenia MAF vs ZE/DE VAF isnt any better unless your boosted. If your boosting, then best bet is to go Megasquirt and then OBDI and OBDII are out the window.

A ZE was never made in OBDII form, but it is correct that all the OBDII sensors can be adapted to the ZE to run a OBDII harness and ECU. Your best bet would be to source a donor KLDE/KLG4 OBDII car and take the engine, full harness(engine and behind dash out), trans, etc...and start prepping it for the swap. You could then source some KLZE heads, cams, IM(KLG4 manifold is pretty damn good though and with KLG4 ecu it is better than ZE w/ DE/G4 ecu). And just make a hybrid DE/G4/ZE engine and run it with OBDII sensors, harness, ecu. Then when your done run the wires and OBDII connector from the donor car to replace the protege's and then you can work on making sure the ECU gets all it wants to pass emissions.

I know I am jumping all over, but the short answer is yes a OBDII swap can be done and should pass emissions.

Thanks man, i didnt think of creating a hyrbid DE/ZE i might actually go that rought insead. Appreciate the food for thought! Ill keep an eye on your stuff as it goes along incase i have any further questions.
 
Dont forget the awesome KLG4's also for building a Hybrid. There the closest thing to a ZE we got here in the states. Lighter crank, improved oiling system, much higher comp pistons, SLA's instead of the garbage HLA's the KLDE/KLZE came with, No failure probe distributor, and better electronics. The KLG4's can be found in any 98+ 626. ;)
 
Wow amazing work here. You make it look easy:) Which that would be a ton of work. Nice job. Very professional.
 
I know this is an old post but I hope yur still on here because im doing this swap also but with snailmans chipped kl01 w/je50. I need some details: some have said I need to run p5 ecu along with the kl ecu to pull off this swap need confirmation, also this pinout is showing me(correct me where I miss) that the mx6 ecu is on the klze, and is going into the car, plugged into the kl ecu, so are the wires you have listed in the pinout the wires that actually tap to the car (ign, inj, ect.). do I wire into the p5 fusebox(underhood) im confused I have read so many posts so many places. im normally a Honda guy but I know them like the back of my wifes head, but I need help when im told im running two separate oem ecus. HELP HELP lol

Reserved #3

Mechanical Information:
Motor: JDM KLZE Straight Neck
Transmission: 1998 626 V6 Transmission
Mounts: Driver Side; Protege, Rear; Protege w/ modified bracket, Front; MX6, Passenger Side; 1.8 Protege
Exhaust: MX6/626/PGT Pacesetter Headers, Shortened Protege Mid-Pipe, MSP Axle Back
Radiator: MX6 w/ modified lower mounts to sit in the protege radiator support, MX6 Hoses
Axles: 03 MSP Axles, 1994 MX6 intermediate shaft w/ modified bracket to bolt to the KLZE
Power Steering: New Suction hose cut to length, Protege P/S Reservoir, Protege Pressure Line, and Protege cooler lines and cooler.
Intake: Modified KL31 Throttle body w/ Protege throttle cable mount to clear the master cylinder, MX6 ebay short ram, Protege Lower section CAI w/ AEM DryFlo Air Filter
Battery: Modified Protege battery tray, Braille B2015 15lbs Slim Battery, Universal Battery Tie down rods and 2nd Gen Protege Tie down cut to length
Heater Hoses: Cut to length coolant hose of the correct size
Fuel Lines: 3/8 Fuel lines cut to length
Brake Booster Hose: 3/8 Hose cut to length and a check valve inserted to allow vacuum only
Shift Linkage: Protege Shift Linkage, however, this changes the angle of the shifter int he car slightly. Others have used PGT linkage to get the correct angle back.


Electrical Information:

1994 MX6/626 ECU Pin Locations / Wire Colors Used
22-Pin Connector
Pin 1: Constant 12v Power - BL/R
Pin 2: Start Signal Input from Ignition Switch - BK/R
Pin 11: Ground - BK
Pin 12: PCM Power - R/BK
Pin 20: Neutral Safety Input - LG/BK
26-Pin Connector
Pin 1: Ground - BK
Pin 2: Ground - BK/R
Pin 14: Ground - BK
Pin 15: Ground - BK/BL

Protege Wiring - To get the cluster in fully functional condition, aside from the fan relay, and fuel pump relay the motor should be safe to run without this.
Ground Fuel Pump Relay at ECU
Wire tach adapter to cluster and tach signal wire on distributor
Use Protege Coolant temp sensor in the second coolant temp sensor location (KLZE only), extend Protege coolant temp wires to sensor.
Use protege reverse light switch and wires.
Use a 98+ 626 Speed sensor and Protege harness to run the speedometer on the cluster.
Use an aftermarket thermostatic fan relay

Maintenance Information:
Oil: 5w30
Qty: 4.5qts
Oil Filter: MX6/626 filter
Gear Oil: 75w90
Qty: 2.9qts
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR6E-11
Distributor Cap and Rotor: MX6/626/Probe
Axles: MX6/626/Probe Intermediate Shaft, 01-03 2.0l Protege Axles
 
I would so love it if someone had a few pics showing how to use the je50/kl31ecu with with whatever harness they used so that I could understand the pinout alot better. I have 02 p5 and am using kl31-1a1 engine, my concerns are
+do I tap new harness into underhood fusebox or do I change that too
+I need to know/see how and what I do to wiring at the ecu to car.
any help will be appreciated
 
I'm in the middle of doing a KL swap on my 1999 Protege and I have a couple of questions about this:

1. Is the 2001 Mazda 626 radiator the same as a MX-6 radiator? Because I have a 626 radiator and I don't see how it can fit- it's too wide.
2. Does anyone know of any more details instructions on how to do this swap? I already have the engine in and wired up and did get it to run, but I need to get the cooling system hooked up. I'd also like to get the AC system hooked up if possible, but there doesn't seem to be room.
 
A 01 626 would have a normal cooling system, where as the MX6 uses a burp tank setup. So no, they would be different.

Other than the overflow tank, is the radiator the same? What are the dimensions of the MX6 radiator? I'm still trying to get the 626 radiator to fit and it seems to be too wide.
 
Okay, I will try and address some of the questions here.

The pinout list given is to connect the KL harness and ECU to the protege. When the KL harness and ECU are in a 626/MX6/Millenia/PGT/Etc... the harnesses will eventually merger with the body harness and fuse box. However, we are not using the KL body harness or fuse box(or atleast I did not). So, you have to provide the KL ecu with certain things to make it work. You need to give the KL ECU any 12v constants, 12v key-on, and any grounds that it would normally get from the KL body harness. This is to let the ECU have constant power, and to let it know that the key has been turned to the "ON" position. My pinout list are the wires that go to the ECU that need these things as listed, but thats for a 93/94 KL harness and ECU, other years are going to differ.

Along with the ECU, certain sensors and devices on the engine need their own fused 12v power. Examples being the injectors and ignition coil. The type of 12v power (Constant vs Key-On) will vary between different sensors. But, not all sensors need their own 12v, so don't get too scared that yopu will be running power wires everywhere. Quite a few sensors get power from the ECU it self.

Also, you dont have to run the Protege/P5 ecu to get this working. I did it to simplify the work needed. It allowed me to quickly and easily get the car swapped and running with all gauges working. But, you can simply spend more time wiring and eliminate the need for the protege/p5 ecu.

As for the Cooling system, you can do whatever you want for a radiator. Evan, one of the other old swap guys, setup a modified mishimoto protege radiator to work with his KL. I ran a MX6 radiator, because it required less work, making lower mounts for it was easier than extended the inlet and outlets of a different radiator. So, as long as you have a radiator and hoses connecting it to the engine correctly you will be fine.

A/C is a different story. You have two options. Run a complete v6 a/c system which may require some custom tubing and routing. Or, you can use a hybrid setup like I did for some time. You use a KL compressor, modified compressor to condesor line(modified as in the compressor end cut off and KL end welded on), then use the rest of the protege lines and sensors and protege ecu and harness to control it. This worked, but I had one rubber line rub constantly on another hard line and it kept rubbing a hole in it and leaking. I got sick of dealing with it and my protege has now been my winter car for the last two years so, I just finally removed all the A/C stuff. Without writing a novel or being there, this is the best I can really help and describe how to do this.

This swap isnt for someone that is used to doign oil changes and tune-ups. You do have to be quite resourceful and critically think about how each system works together to get a clear understanding of this whole project. However, all the homework is done for you and posted here in my post and the other KL swaps on this forum.
 
Just to throw this out there pertaining to the A/C. Im doing my second KL swap into a P5 and making things as close to factory as possible, including the A/C. After a bunch of head scratching I figured out the best approach.
Note that this is using an OBDII Probe harness. OBDI may be slightly different.
First, you use the stock FS compressor by making a adaptor plate to mount the FS compressor to the KL block. Ive been using 3/8" thick aluminum plate with spacers. Remove the FS clutch from the compressor and replace it with the KL clutch. It swaps right on. Boom, no mixing and matching lines.
Next, run the A/C amplifier output wire to the A/C high pressure input on the KL ECU. This was labeled as the "A/C on" wire on the FS ECU. This will tell the ECU that the A/C button is pushed, activate the fans, and bump the idle speed to compensate for the extra load of the compressor.
Last, wire the A/C relay output on the KL ECU to a fused relay to feed power to the compressor. The output from the ECU is a ground.

Somewhat simplified explanation on how it works: The KL a/c system uses high pressure and low pressure switches in the system to cycle the compressor. The low pressure switch prevents compressor damage from too low levels of refrigerant. The high pressure switch shuts down the compressor when pressure is too great, which would eventually freeze the evaporator core. In the P5 system, its simpler. It still uses the low pressure sensor for the same function, however it is used in conjunction with an A/C amplifier. The amplifier uses a temperature probe to monitor how cold the evaporator is getting, and will cut off the compressor to keep it from freezing up, then cut the compressor back on once the evaporator is above freezing. The output of the amplifier goes through the low pressure switch, so its essentially two sensors in one. The output of this goes to the KL ecu through the high pressure input to tell it to turn on the fans, compressor, and bump up the idle. The KL ecu will also shut off the compressor under wide open throttle.
 
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