P1250 - Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit

Maybe I'm not searching right but I can't find any straight answers on this thing. I keep throwing the code after resetting so I know I need to replace it. So I need to know where it is and what it is. Is it the same as the EGR? I am confused. But I am constantly throwing the code for this and for the rear O2 sensor (P0037). So if any one can elaborate on these two codes it would be greatly appreciated.

I have the same code right now :/ idk what it is . Thinking of getting a new regulator and going from there

So many people take the service manual for granted.............

firstbornson said:

Maybe I'm not searching right but I can't find any straight answers on this thing. I keep throwing the code after resetting so I know I need to replace it. So I need to know where it is and what it is. Is it the same as the EGR? I am confused. But I am constantly throwing the code for this and for the rear O2 sensor (P0037). So if any one can elaborate on these two codes it would be greatly appreciated.

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This is where the free to download Service Manual available here on this site comes in really handy. I suggest you download it and look it over. You can also use the search function in the PDF file. You can also look up the codes on the internet. Just type in Mazda Protege P0037. Check the connection of the PRC and see if it's making good contact or even disconnected. Troubleshoot from there.

RicoP5 said:

I have the same code right now :/ idk what it is . Thinking of getting a new regulator and going from there

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Don't go off buying the FPR just yet. Test the PRC Solenoid Valve if you can, if not then replace it. I would test the circuit first and see if it's good as well.

I have also taken the time to color in the vacuum lines.

I'm sorry firstbornson, I hope you don't think I am picking on you as I am not. I just want to show the many that will click on here where they can find many of the answers at. The Manual is here in the P5 section as a sticky under:

3rd Gen Workshop Manual (P5/MSP/MP3 also)

Just to show what the manual will help you with and I ain't shitn you, almost tells you where to look and how to do it to give you a running start.....

Start off in the ENGINE section of the PDF Manual at 01-02B-1 and/or 01-02B-14:

Page/section: 01-02B-127 shows a step by step diagnostic of Code DTC P1250[FS] and shows the detection condition and possible causes. I am not going to post those but just showing you the possibilities of the manual. Very valuable tool.

I checked all the hoses already and all. How do I tests the valve as you mentioned ?

Took off fpr yesterday and cleaned it also

You will probably need a Multimeter or say a 12 volt or maybe even a 9 volt battery to check the PRC as described up above in steps 3 and 4 PRC Solenoid Valve Inspection. If Terminals A & B have current running through them meaning + and GRND as described above then Ports B & C will flow air through them. If Terminals A & B don't have current running through them then only A & B will flow air. Simple check.

Here is the rest from the manual.

Follow the steps.

this darn p1250 code is on till

What happens if. U dint change it

Dont

What's the part number to prc solenoid from Mazda anyone know

Know one has the part number to prc solenoid

p5_zoom said:

Know one has the part number to prc solenoid

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I bought my solenoid for the p1250 code from autozone the part number is EVS174.

before you read please understand i am no where close to a mechanic and i have very little knowledge about under the hood.. lol

okay so im going to start from the beginning. i have a 2001 mazda protege, 2.0 and my husband took it to work the other day and all of a sudden the battery light came on while he was driving it and when he got to work it must of overheated (he didnt look at the temp gage, im just assuming this) because it died and started making a crazy noise. the best way i can explain it is the sound of a potato being shot out of a PVC pipe.. it made this noise about 3-4 times and then all of our coolant drained out of the car... so he had his friend come look at it and suggested the thermostat being replaced... so we tow the car to the house and we put the thermostat on and then we realize the serpantine belt broke... also we have a huge hole in our coolant resivior. so we go buy the serpantine belt and the resivoir and put those on... after all that his friend realizes that the fan? isnt spinning which controls the water pump?? again i have no idea what im talking about really... lol.. so we go buy the water pump and replace it and the timing belt cover (because it was eating our belts up)... (i dont know if this is important or not but we couldnt get the crank bolt off when we were putting the water pump on so i googled how to do that and a video showed them using a breaker bar and turn the engine over a couple times and the bolt FINALLY came lose. ) anyways we get those put on and now the car has very little power when trying to get up and go. we can put the pedal to the floor and its barely inching along.. once it gets to a good speed (like above 40) it seems ok?? but as soon as we stop and idle it tries to die. so we took it to autozone and had them hook it up to our car and it throws these codes

P0171 adaptive fuel trim too lean (bank1)
p0102 MAF circuit low input
p0103 MAF sensor circuit high input
p0108 BARO sensor circuit high input
p1250 pressure regulator solenoid circuit malfunction

it said for us to replace the MAF sensor
so we spend yet another 223$ and had a friend put it on and started it up low and behold it DID ABSOLUTLY NOTHING. if anything it made the idling and speeding up problem WORSE.
we have spend over 600$ replacing parts on this car in the past 3 days and it still isnt running like it used to. i have no idea what to do or where to go from here... please if anyone has any advice its greatly appreciated