CX-5 Roof Racks

Thanks for this, I had kind of been considering something along those lines. I think with some careful planning I could get varied height towers to bring the two bars more or less level (I often carry 8'-10' lumber so things jutting skywards or road-wards would be a problem).

Two questions: Do the door opening grabbing style racks mar the finish in any way, over time? Also, does anyone have a measurement on the maximum (front to back) spread for the stock cross bars?

Glad this forum is here, just got my CX-5 and am loving it.
 
Also, does anyone have a measurement on the maximum (front to back) spread for the stock cross bars?

If the bars are maxed out (front bar all the way forward, rear all the way back), the distance between the two is only 28.5 inches.

I've had considerable trouble finding roof boxes and bike racks that will fasten to the stock bars and clear the hatch. The distance from the front bar to hatch while open is roughly 48", fyi.
 
Any roof rack with the accessories (bikes, kayaks, ski boxes) affect the wind noise and mileage. I have a Yakima ski box and bike rack so ordered the Railgrab (4) mounts off eBay for $170 USD shipping included. Yakima gets $180 + shipping.
 
So I think I'm going to go with the OEM rails and Thule aero bars. Haven't quite decided between the through bars or the no-overhang style-- anyone have any experience on that count? Wondering if the through bars are noisier/worse MPG. Given the width of the car, I probably don't need the extra few inches, but it does appeal to me.
 
You'll have to do a custom system if you want to increase the bar spread. A basic tower system from Yakima or Thule will move the bar forward and be easy to use but it will look like an add-on. Whispbar makes a Flush bar system which looks very OEM but their isnt a "naked roof" fit for the CX5 yet.
I installed a track to the roof which gives me the custom features and adjustability I want but still looks OEM. You do have to drill the roof but you don't have to drop the headliner. This is the 3rd personal vehicle that I've tracked. This is a Whispbar bar system but I could also mount a Yakima bar system to the tracks as well. It's also stronger than OEM and most aftermarket setups.
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OK, so now, (after entirely too much dithering) I've decided to have these type of custom rails installed. It appears that no combination of OEM rails, fixed point towers, clips or anything was going to give me what I wanted: a pair of aero bars that were level to each other, with a decent spread, and which I can take off easily and leave a clean looking roofline. The custom rail system will, and thanks for the heads up.

I've found a place that can give me 50" rails installed for $300. Since the cheapest I've seen the OEM rails is $200, that sounds good to me, considering the vast improvement in flexibility and looks (not to mention the increased load bearing).

So one more question: that same installer really wants to jack up the price of the cross bars (which I don't have to get, it's not a package deal), I'm guessing because some kind of "custom" landing pad or something. The sales guy noted that the foot works with these rails by having a diamond shaped piece that rides in the rail and which pivots 90 to lock in before tightening.

Is there some custom kit to get, say, Thule aero bars to work with this setup? Do I need to worry about landing pads that don't conform to the part of the roof where I want to put the crossbars? I'd really prefer to get the bars online and avoid the installer markup, but not sure what, if any, additional hardware is needed.
 
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Just got a 2014 CX-5 touring, came with silver cross bars on it. They look like very similar to the aero profile thule. It looks like my thule roof box will fit on the oem bars no problem, but there doesn't seem to be any way to mount my current thule fork mount bike racks. Is there a list of racks that works with the OEM cross bars? Am I better off selling the OEM rack and just getting new feet for my old thule rack?
 
I took this rack off my 08 Subaru WRX before I traded it in for my '15 Cx-5 GT.

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AFAIK Thule doesn't list a podium foot fit for the CX-5, just the clip on style. So, two questions: what foot is that, and, does it fit? (Looks like it does).

More generally, rack manufacturers make a big deal of their "fit kits", but when you look at, say, the Yakima base for the Control Towers that officially fits the CX-5, it's just a rubber pad with no real contouring. It looks like it would be no better or worse than a generic mount.
 
I wish I had that information to give. It came on my '08 Subaru WRX hatchback when I bought the car from a private party.

It definitely fits. The rubber "feet" are conformed to the roof and grooves. It does not wiggle or anything. I didn't mod it to fit. I had to widen the feet to fit the CX-5 but that's it. I utilized the same hardware as well.

If you know where a part number may be printed on it I'll go check.


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Hmmm...... do the cross bars on the Thule rig come off easy, and leave little stumps? I'm asking because Yakima makes something like that that officially fits the CX-5, but only for the round bars. Thule has what they call "Podium Feet" (which is what you have there) that will take aero bars, but with no official CX-5 mount.

Hey wait, I tracked it down-- fit kit for Thule on an '08 WRX four door is #3068. That's great info-- I'll get a set of those and see how they fit. Thanks!
 
Trade offs..... the Yakima Landing Pads are just rubber skirts-- they conform somewhat to the roof line under pressure from the mounting screw. OTOH, they have that quick release, so you can pop the rails and towers off in seconds, then cap the bases and leave them on. But, round bars only, at this time. The Thule looks to have more legitimate custom mounts, with a curve that conforms to the roof and a piece that sits down in the rain gutter. And you can use aero bars with the 460R Podium foot.. However, it looks like it takes tools to remove the towers and rails, and then you're left with raw pads. Also, until the report that the WRX fit kit works with our cars it didn't appear they had anything but door frame clip stye towers for the CX-5.

I think I'll go with the Yakima, since the only reason to worry about aero is if you plan to leave the bars on a lot. With the quick release, I'll just put them on when I need them. Maybe pick up a fairing for long trip with a bike or whatever.

And yes, I was saying a few posts back that I had decided to go with the permanent tracks, but I just couldn't pull the trigger on drilling into the roof. I figured out that I can get level bars by using the front hole of the front mount and the front hole of the back mount. Using the front hole in front drops the bar a solid inch over the 5" spread of those holes, since the roof line has a fairly steep pitch at that point. And, of course, the front hole of the back pair raises that end up slightly. I should take a picture of the jury rigged level with feelers thing I made up to make sure. A little more fore to aft spread than I was looking for (some accessories might not work) but I've got an old Yakima bike rack that's 48" long, so I'm pretty good. I'll take pictures once it's put together.
 
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Good luck! I'll be checking this thread often.


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I think with some careful planning I could get varied height towers to bring the two bars more or less level (I often carry 8'-10' lumber so things jutting skywards or road-wards would be a problem).

I have the OEM rails and cross bars. I wanted to carry some 4x8 sheets and dimensional lumber on occasion, so I built a quick-n-dirty roof rack out of 3 8' 2x4s and some pipe clamps to attach it to the cross bars. Works really well and you can cinch the load down really tight with ratchet straps without worrying about your crossbars or rails.

Putting the front 2x4 flat and the rear 2x4 on edge creates a rack that is basically level with the wheels.

You could replace the pipe clamps and straps with something a bit more elegant but I was making it up as I went and wanted it cheap -- would love some suggestions on doing it better

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Cool! Thanks for posting that, I have considered making something similar. The 2x4s on the flat and on the edge to level things out is genius.

I was thinking that if I do the towers with the round bars I can come up with some kind of quick release clamp for the rack as it sits on the bars (or maybe Yakima makes some accessory hardware that would work) so I could easily take the wooden rack on and off when I needed it. I think I'll have enough clearance under the bars to be able to release/attach something without dinging up my roof.

Do you feel like the factory bars have enough spread to give you a good base for the wooden rack?
 
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Differentiate-- you might check out Yakima Mighty Mounts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) They look like this:



The body clamps over almost any cross bar, and that top part is a removable saddle that can take varying lengths of carriage bolt with a nut that fits in underneath the top part of the clamp, so whatever gets bolted to the clamp sandwiches the saddle so it can't go anywhere. You might be able to forgo the saddle altogether, since that's designed to mate with various Yakima racks, and all you need is a bolt to the clamp.

What you might do (and what I think I'll do) is permanently mount four of these to the corners of the wooden carrier rack where it lies over the cross bars, for a sturdy quick release setup. I might keep the saddle even if it's not necessary and drill some (looks to be about) 3/4 holes in the wood so that there's a good mechanical connection and no chance of shifting.
 
Thanks Addabox, those clamps look perfect for the job. I like the idea of a quick-release setup to make it more convenient to use.

I built it in the Home Depot parking lot before loading it up -- got some funny looks.

Do you feel like the factory bars have enough spread to give you a good base for the wooden rack?

Seemed very stable to me when loaded up with 300lb of sheet material and 2x4. Mounting the 2x4s outside the crossbars gave a platform that was about 3' long. That gave an overhang of 2.5' on either side. The weight sits on the rails, not the crossbars (which I believe are only rated to a little over 100lb), but the longest 2x4 I was carrying was 10'. The attachment to the crossbars prevented the load from shifting/lifting.

I think if you wanted even better stability, add straps or some sort of clamp to the front like the blue straps at the back, which attach the rack directly to the rails instead of the weak plastic crossbars.
 
Is 375 parts only, because I was quoted like 650 installed from the dealer.
Probably installation. The stealership tried to charge me over $350 to install a $44 sensor that I did in 30 minutes with no prior experience.
 
I have the OEM rails and cross bars. I wanted to carry some 4x8 sheets and dimensional lumber on occasion, so I built a quick-n-dirty roof rack out of 3 8' 2x4s and some pipe clamps to attach it to the cross bars. Works really well and you can cinch the load down really tight with ratchet straps without worrying about your crossbars or rails.

That is a great example of parking lot engineering. Well done.
 
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