CX-5 Roof Racks

Particleman, how is the wind noise and MPG loss with those crossbars permanently attached?
I think i got -2mpg on the highway with my last roofrack.
 
Particleman, how is the wind noise and MPG loss with those crossbars permanently attached?
I think i got -2mpg on the highway with my last roofrack.

It's only been on a few days so I haven't noticed a MPG difference yet. Right now I'm at 32 MPG average (AWD, mostly highway). The wind noise is pretty annoying, and it's not even worth opening the sunroof when there's a bike on the rack because it's so loud. I guess it's the price you pay for a roof rack. Maybe a wind deflector would help? The other solution is to get a hitch rack, but I'm always paranoid about someone rear-ending me and destroying my bikes. Not to mention it makes parallel parking harder.

Also, ZuluCX is correct that if I removed the rack, the holes I drilled in the plastic strips would be exposed. But I don't plan on ever removing the rack as I'm always either riding bikes in spring/summer/fall or skiing in the winter (benefit of living in Colorado!)
 
yes, I remember visiting Colorado last summer and every car (most of which were Subarus) had a roof rack!
I live in South Florida and go Kayaking once or twice a month, so I am torn about mounting rail + removable crossbars, or a more permanent solution like yours.

I think the right mix would be the permanent tower and crossbar solution with their aero-bars.
 
Confused. I really need a roof rack to carry three bikes, do I go with all MAZDA OEM ? or the mazda rails with Thule 450R Crossroad AeroBlade Base Roof Rack?
 
Confused. I really need a roof rack to carry three bikes, do I go with all MAZDA OEM ? or the mazda rails with Thule 450R Crossroad AeroBlade Base Roof Rack?

The Mazda dealer bike mounts are basic Yakima mounts, nothing special except overpriced from the dealer. But it will be tight to get 3 bikes on the factory crossbars. Using the Mazda rails with Thule, Yakima Railgrab or Whispbar Thru bars will give you more crossbar width and adjustability. I wanted a cleaner and stronger system than the Mazda rails and here's my system. Whispbar custom tracks with Whispbar Through bars.

IMAG1040.jpg

IMAG1042.jpg

IMAG1043.jpg


I did use a Yakima Control tower w/ Landing Pad 11 that use the same mounting points as the Thule Podium but the long distance between the bars (43") limited the configurations I could set up.
IMAG1003.jpg
 
The Mazda dealer bike mounts are basic Yakima mounts, nothing special except overpriced from the dealer. But it will be tight to get 3 bikes on the factory crossbars. Using the Mazda rails with Thule, Yakima Railgrab or Whispbar Thru bars will give you more crossbar width and adjustability. I wanted a cleaner and stronger system than the Mazda rails and here's my system. Whispbar custom tracks with Whispbar Through bars.

IMAG1040.jpg

IMAG1042.jpg

IMAG1043.jpg


I did use a Yakima Control tower w/ Landing Pad 11 that use the same mounting points as the Thule Podium but the long distance between the bars (43") limited the configurations I could set up.
IMAG1003.jpg

Thank you for responding. I appreciate it. Yes. I agree about three bikes. I still want roof mounts for Home Depot/Lowes and a Cargo Tube; So I am looking for a trailer mount for the bikes. Can you break down your inventory of the roof and the trailer ? Thanks again for your help.
 
Just a FYI. I already had the Thule Podium set-up from my Mazda 3. So I am drilling a hole in the trim pieces like the early poster. But I didn't want to leave it on all the time. So I ordered new trim pieces from my dealer. They where only $33 a piece. The accessories guy liked this set-up a lot since he prefers the Thule himself.
 
I'm thinking of getting a roof rack for a kayak, but will only use it maybe 10 times a year, and don't want to drive around with a roof rack the other 355 days with it on. Can you take it off when not in use? I know you have to cut the roof moulding, but can you keep the cut pieces and just plug them up when not in use?

Also, what do I need to buy? Does the basic roof rack come with the crossbars or not? If so, could I just strap the kayak to the bars, or do I need to buy the specific kayak holder?
 
The Mazda dealer bike mounts are basic Yakima mounts, nothing special except overpriced from the dealer. But it will be tight to get 3 bikes on the factory crossbars. Using the Mazda rails with Thule, Yakima Railgrab or Whispbar Thru bars will give you more crossbar width and adjustability. I wanted a cleaner and stronger system than the Mazda rails and here's my system. Whispbar custom tracks with Whispbar Through bars.

IMAG1043.jpg
Rjdee,

Your system looks the most useful, giving full adjustability of distance between bars and option to pretty easily remove towers. Those look like standard tracks also compatible with Yakima and Thule; I put something similar on my Jeep's fiberglass top.

But oh, it must have been hard to drill that first hole!

I wonder if the rails could be mounted over the oem mounting strips?

K
 
Bumping this thread for more questions. I'm looking to mount 14-15' canoe and possibly attaching a roof bike rack too.

I know I'm probably going to get the factory rails (or maybe alternative aftermarket rails if cost effective). Because I like the looks of the rail, and I also would like the crossbars to be relatively easy to remove when not in use. Rhino rack or Thule rack with towers seem like more of a permanent racks that would be hard to remove. So I have decided on getting the rails then mount cross bars on them. I'm looking at both the factory crossbar and the Thule AeroBlade crossbars. It seems to me that the only difference is that the AeroBlades mount differently to the rails and are a little wider. But they also cost almost 3 times as much as the factory crossbars. Do the aftermarket crossbars offer any advantage over the factory ones while being more expensive?
 
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Aftermarket crossbars will give you greater strength, greater compatibility with various mounts, and also the wider mounting surface.

I'm a Yakima/Whispbar rep in New England, I've been selling and installing roof racks for 15+ years and personally avoid factory crossbars due to the inevitable weaknesses in their design. Most factory crossbars are biased towards looks and low noise since the dealer doesn't want to hear any complaints about wind noise. This is why most rack systems are mounted back away from the driver. Someone buying an aftermarket rack should be willing to give up some noise and the clean cosmetic to gain utility, function and safety.

Your biggest concern with mounting your canoe on the factory crossbars is the usable width of the factory bars and the width of your canoe. Most 14-15' canoes are fairly wide (36-40"). The width of the factory crossbars is close to 32", somebody please correct me if I'm wrong. Also the distance from the front bar to the rear bar is about 34", again this is a guessimate since I don't have the system install on my car. It'll be close but your canoe may not even fit on the factory crossbars.

A Thule, Yakima or Whispbar through bar system will give you a wider bar that will support your canoe properly and you could use something like the KeelOver gunawle brackets really hold it tight. Yes they do cost more but if you are transporting the boat longer distances or more often you can have greater confidence when driving the highways. Also the wider bar will actually make it easier to load the canoe up there.
 
is there a "clip on" version of a roof rack yet?

i can't say i'm excited about drilling anything and like the racks to be easily removable...
 
Pretty much everything out there for aftermarket doesn't require drilling. My system is a step most wouldn't take but makes it perfect for my needs.

Most racks systems will either grab onto the body where the doors open, attach to "fixed points" under the roof trim or attach to the raised rails. While they vary by manufacturer, they install fairly easily and are also easy to take off when not needed. Go to your nearest bike shop, outdoor specialty, REI etc to see how they'll work.

It all comes down to your usage and form/function rationale.
is there a "clip on" version of a roof rack yet?

i can't say i'm excited about drilling anything and like the racks to be easily removable...
 
ProductImage.ashx


looks like it requires the factory rails. $435 msrp and kit comes with aero bars.

I'm selling this same kit but black, also have the locks and keys. I'm asking 275.00 with free shipping. Only used them for 4 months.

Message me if interested.

Will take paypal payments.
 
Aftermarket crossbars will give you greater strength, greater compatibility with various mounts, and also the wider mounting surface.

I'm a Yakima/Whispbar rep in New England, I've been selling and installing roof racks for 15+ years and personally avoid factory crossbars due to the inevitable weaknesses in their design. Most factory crossbars are biased towards looks and low noise since the dealer doesn't want to hear any complaints about wind noise. This is why most rack systems are mounted back away from the driver. Someone buying an aftermarket rack should be willing to give up some noise and the clean cosmetic to gain utility, function and safety.

Your biggest concern with mounting your canoe on the factory crossbars is the usable width of the factory bars and the width of your canoe. Most 14-15' canoes are fairly wide (36-40"). The width of the factory crossbars is close to 32", somebody please correct me if I'm wrong. Also the distance from the front bar to the rear bar is about 34", again this is a guessimate since I don't have the system install on my car. It'll be close but your canoe may not even fit on the factory crossbars.

A Thule, Yakima or Whispbar through bar system will give you a wider bar that will support your canoe properly and you could use something like the KeelOver gunawle brackets really hold it tight. Yes they do cost more but if you are transporting the boat longer distances or more often you can have greater confidence when driving the highways. Also the wider bar will actually make it easier to load the canoe up there.

Thanks for the informative post. I will have to check on the dimensions.
 
Roof racks

I have bought a Black GT Diesel. I am keen to put some roof racks on it. any of the roof rack makers like Rola or Thule have a set to fit yet?

That sounds awesome, pls take pics please...you are from Australia mate huh...I wonder if u cud see about the seat covers for front and rear as we don't have it here in the US. You know how much it cost too? If that is not much to ask.
 
Pretty much everything out there for aftermarket doesn't require drilling. My system is a step most wouldn't take but makes it perfect for my needs.

Most racks systems will either grab onto the body where the doors open, attach to "fixed points" under the roof trim or attach to the raised rails. While they vary by manufacturer, they install fairly easily and are also easy to take off when not needed. Go to your nearest bike shop, outdoor specialty, REI etc to see how they'll work.

It all comes down to your usage and form/function rationale.

Thanks for the response!
 
I check with the tape and 36" wide canoe is going to sit mighty close to the edge of the crossbar, maybe even past the flat part and rest on the bend. Looks like I'm going to have to find some aftermarket ones. Already ordered the OEM rails today.

*sigh* $300 for 2 bars seem like such a rip off. Tempted to make my own.

Can anyone with the factory bars measure the length of the flat part of the bar please?
 
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Hi All, I have the factory roof rack and looking for an aftermarket cross bar.
I think the factory roof rack is about 2" high and 1.25" wide.

Whats the recommendation for a foot pad for a cross bar that works?
 
Just mounted my OEM crossbars and my old roof box. Aesthetically not bad IMHO and not so difficult/slow to mount and dismount.
 

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