New owner of an MSP, and I have some questions

What's going on everyone! Let me just give you a little background. I've been driving a '92 Mazda MX-3 for the past 7 years (love that car!). But the BP engine I swapped in it last September blew on me and I needed another car ASAP. I got my hands on a 2003.5 MSP, Yellow. So let me give you the run down.

I the body has 65K miles and the previous owner had said the dealer replaced the engine because it had a hairline crack in the (i forgot if he said head or block) and the new engine has around 19K-20K miles (turbo was also replaced). Everything on the car is mechanically stock with the exception of an Injen CAI. The body is in pretty great shape except a spot of cancer on the hood (it's not a hole or rusting through, but it's bubbling from underneath) and some rust on the back of the trunk at the bottom of where the license plate goes. I've only driven the car for a day, and this is my first turbo car (or driving a car with turbo for that matter).

So there are two things I noticed off the bat. When I'm driving and I punch the accelerator at higher RPM's and I let go of the gas (it could be just letting it go to slow down or while shifting) I hear a sound, which I can only describe as a car trying to gain traction in the snow, like a sloshing sound. It doesn't affect performance as far as I can tell, but it does sound odd. Is this normal, and if not, what could it be? (excuse me for the newbie turbo questions).

Also, when I start the car, the idle is fine, after it warms up, idles fine (I believe around 700RPM). So it's like every 2-3 minutes or so, the idle is steady, and then for like 3-4 seconds, the idle drops and picks up 3 consecutive times, after which it stays back at 700, and this repeats every 2-3 minutes as I said. What could be causing this? This can't be normal right??? Before the guy dropped off the car (I'm talking about the same day of the transaction) he had the alternator replaced, so maybe I have to run the car so the computer sets in???(dunno)

Other than that, the driver side door is sagging a little (it doesn't line up with the body perfectly). I tried tightening the hinge bolts on the door, but it's the same, so maybe I have to tighten the hinge bolts on the frame, but that means removing the fender (yikes!).


So I just wanted to know from the community if you guys know about these issues I'm talking about. Was the price fair for the car based on mileage and condition, how common is rust on these bodies and any thing else I should know, words of wisdom??? I hope this car lasts me as long as my MX-3, if not longer.

Also, the guy threw in an intercooler into the deal (nice!) so I hope I get that installed in the near future.

You can notice the rust I'm talking about in this picture

looks great. The sound you are talking about is probably the bpv. Is it like a fluttering sound? If so, it is amplified due to the intake. It's no problem, they all do it. Now, first, get rid of the things outlining the tail lights and dump the floor mats...lol. Car looks good though

The sound is due to the CAI.

Thanks Spiced. I don't know if I would say it's 'fluttering' If you've ever driven in deep snow and gotten stuck, you accelerate and the wheels spin, when you let go of the accelerator, it's that same sound, the wheel stuck in the snow and you let go of the accelerator. The car actually didn't come with the taillight trim, or the floor mats [I joked with the previous owner that the lack of the floor mats would be a deal breaker ] So if that sound is normal, I'll just have to get used to it. I just gotta figure out the weird idle issue.

Thanks jonathan, I guess that settles that. I'm pretty surprised this car has any rust at all. I know about the old school (90-94) Protege's and MX-3's, most of the MX-3's being from Canada. Those cars with all the snow and salt on the road and the bodies are still good, with minimal rust, (unless you live next to a salt mine). So to have a car barely 10 years old with rust spots, a little troublesome. But nothing that can't be fixed.

I know a few people on here have had a dipping idle in the past. I don't know the cause of it. My car idle dips randomly every now and then. I just got used to it. It never caused any problems.

OUCH!.....after more research, it seems that I bought a car that WILL break down on me down the road (no pun intended) through no fault of my own. I don't plan on modding the car (maybe add a boost/vacuum gauge and a air/fuel gauge), and I drive pretty conservatively (I don't race, but I'll punch the gas every now and then, never into redline territory). Apparently FS-DE stands for ******* Stranded-Dead Engine (sad2)


I've read that the KLZE will plug and play (mechanically, I know I'll need the computer and harness from the engine). Does a BP also drop into the engine bay? Just something I'd consider if the FSDE blows on me. The BP's when done right are super reliable.

Don't believe what you read that is ridiculous. I have put over 30k trouble free miles on my MSP. The only reason why people say the FSDE is weak is because in stock form they can't take over 14psi reliably, the motor was NEVER designed to make that kind of power therefore it will blow up.

Anyone that thinks you have to 'baby' the MSP around should see me drive my 124k mile stock drivetrain MSP around the track.

I hope so, I'm not too worried though, I have no intentions of racing, autocross, etc. This is strictly my daily driver, I don't need to get more power out of it than stock, which is fine with me, I have nothing to prove, no one to beat. (hippy) But I am concerned just about the "common" problems. I'm definitely getting me some AWR motor mounts, front and rear, couldn't hurt right? Also debating whether to buy an MFactory LSD now (to have it on hand if/when I need it). If I do, is it the 26 spline or 28 spline? Could anyone give me recommendations on parts I should buy that will ensure my car will be reliable? (Not to get more power, but just parts better than stock, like the motor mounts).

There isn't much needed if you don't plan to drive it hard.

Motor mounts like you said - but front only. Adding the rear will make a lot of vibrations transfer into the cabin. Not ideal for a daily driver. I had mine in for 2 weeks before I took it out. Forget baout having the air conditioning on, it shakes so much any passenger gets worried your car is gonna explode anytime you're at a stop light. the front is enough to prevent enough movent to limit damage.

Upgrading your exhaust hangers is a cheap reliability mod. Your stock ones are prone to crack and your exhaust will rattle against the cross member. My stock ones lasted about 50K, first repalcement about 60K more and the second replacements have only been on about 10K

Upgrading your swaybar brackets will help reliability as well, but i don't believe anyone makes a new bracket anymore. If you're stuck with the stock ones just plan on replacing the bushings every 6 months or so to eliminate the clunk sound in the back and the squeaking in the front.

I've put 120K hard miles on my factory LSD with no issues. at least 70K miles have been at 10-12psi. I wouldn't worry about that unless you have to.

Obviously a boost gauge is important. if your wastegate actuator starts going out you maynot know without a boost guage. When mine first started it would be stuck open and I wouldn't build boost. i wouldn't have assumed this was the problem if I didn't have the gauge. Not a mistake you want to make cause if it gets stuck closed you will build more boost at partial throttle than your car can handle - easliy 15-20psi with the gas only halfway down.

Other than that upgrade your oil filter and oil to a high quality full synthetic and change it often and you'll be good to go.
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If you want to do a minor overhaul change out the spark plugs with some that are 1 step colder, replace the coil packs and boots, replace the fuel pressure regulator valve - all can be had for about $200. Then just clean your EGR valve and run some Sea Foam through the vacume intake on top of the valve cover so it hits the injectors, or have your injectors cleaned and you should be running well for quite a few miles.

Congrats on the new ride.

Good to know, I'll get the front only then. (No wonder I see a lot of guys selling their rears cause the 'ride is too rough'). Also was gonna do a tune-up this Friday, oil change, and spark plugs. I'll hold off on the LSD until I actually bust it. Was also thinking of upgrading to silicone vacuum hoses, but again, I'm not racing on the track or anything.

I've actually heard that synthetic oil isn't the best on these motors. Was also told not to use premium fuel because it runs too rich, that I should be using plus. (dunno)

Welcome to the club bro. I just picked up my MSP a couple weeks ago too and Im kind of experiencing some of the same issues and disappointment with the performance as you are. But just keep in mind, ATLEAST ITS NOT A CIVIC ;-) hahah Itll get better man. Just think the sooner something breaks, the sooner you can fix, upgrade and improve it. lol I just started a "first impressions" thread in the welcome lounge area feel free to chime in with your review of the car lol

Did my first mod today! (yippy) [Installed autometer boost gauge, 4301]

I hooked it up after the waste gate, before the intake manifold. Is that the right location? Because I'm getting a vacuum reading of 4 at idle....FOUR In HG, Isn't normal vacuum 20-18???? I doubt I have a malfunctioned gauge, it's new out the box, and when I hit boost, it reads a healthy stock 8 PSI.

I ask if my gauge is incorrect or the placement because I don't have rough idle or any other tell tale signs of vacuum leak, everything is normal as far as I know.

hahah good choice on first mod! I did the same with an APEXI but I didnt install wiring, so I dont know if its accurate. I get -1.0 bar of vacuum and .5bar of boost. Which is 7.25 boost and 14.5 vacuum. As I said tho. I dont know how accurate. Im just borrowing my buddies til I buy one and he cant find wires... Also....... i drive like a girl :"( so im usually at -.5 bar under normal driving hahahah its weird tho i hear the turbo spool and wastegate still

edit:answer your question: Proper location is T off at the FPR. Youll see FPR left of Intake manifold and vacuum hose coming off that.

20-18 is what your vacuum should be at, it can vary based on your elevation. The things that make the FSDE blow up are generally either overboosting or oil starvation. If you floor it while cornering bad things can happen.. If you dont increase the boost then you shouldnt worry about it. The only thing that will most definitely leave you stranded is the LSD but theres no point in replacing it before that actually happens. Its true some people have never changed it but they are becoming more the exception than the norm.


http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?64821-LSD-Failure-LIST