Lowering springs or coilovers?
- Thread starter ourlee
- Start date
Looks like you're beating a dead horse there Paris (boom03)
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I don't know of anyone who tows and has springs, so I can't reference someone there, but as long as you use the applicable ball and bar (correct height) you should be fine.
Thnaks.
I remember the good ole days of lowering with a blow torch. Then having the bounce...
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Hey I found a guy on the FB CX-5 Club page who tows with Corksport Springs (the lower of the pure springs you can buy)
I quote
"Yes I'm lowered my trailer makes 1/2 difference I find it a smoother ride with the trailer then without"
"I'm on corksport springs my trailer is 1090 lbs and it makes a half inch difference when hooked up barely notice a height change but pulling I definitely notice the rpms are higher"
Hope this helps.
Hey I found a guy on the FB CX-5 Club page who tows with Corksport Springs (the lower of the pure springs you can buy)
I quote
"Yes I'm lowered my trailer makes 1/2 difference I find it a smoother ride with the trailer then without"
"I'm on corksport springs my trailer is 1090 lbs and it makes a half inch difference when hooked up barely notice a height change but pulling I definitely notice the rpms are higher"
Hope this helps.
DUDE! THANKS FOR THAT PICTURE! My Hobie trailer loaded will be max .....500lbs.
Now what FB page is that?.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
JigMD80
JustAverageJay
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- 2014 Mazda CX-5
Already sell these? I pm'd you. I am looking for a set
jomar23CX5
Member
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- Mazda CX5 6spd Sport
Im selling a used set of H&R springs for CX5's!! 
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...H-amp-R-springs-OEM-Roof-Rack-Rails&p=6395562
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...H-amp-R-springs-OEM-Roof-Rack-Rails&p=6395562
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
fvck I need to put m coils on before there is no one left to sell mine too
2016MAZDACX5
Member
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- 2016 Mazda X-5
I like this
Just wanted to share some info in case anyone finds this useful. I'm happy to be the guinea pig, albeit on a different car.
I've lowered a 2002 Toyota Rav4 on Koni yellow struts/shocks with H&R lowering springs and
lowered a 2005 Mercedes c230 Kompressor Sports Sedan on TEIN basic coilover kit.
With stiffer suspension, bumps will feel extra bumpy and on the flip side, smooth asphalt will feel like driving on the smoothest surface you can think of it. Basically, it will exaggerate the texture of the road.
My impressions:
Rav4:
Going springs alone are definitely cheaper, but yes as others have mentioned, the ride will be harsher. The reason why is that b/c the ride height is lowered, it needs to compensate bumps in the road with a much shorter range. It does so by being stiffer so the car doesn't bottom out. The Koni yellows (damper adjustable) and H&R lowering springs combo was great. No one believes me, but I swear it drives like my mom's Mini Cooper S. I can turn a lot tighter and at much higher speeds. As for being bumpy, I gotta explain. Having stiffer sportier suspension is like jumping on the ground vs jumping on a bed. The impact to the ground is harsh, but it's just once. The impact on a bed is tons less harsh but it bounces over and over and over until there's no more bounce. So when people say "bumpy" as uncomfortable, you have to decide whether you think bouncing over and over and over on a soft suspension is more annoying or a quick harsh single slam is more annoying. The advantage of stiffer suspension is that you can take corners a lot better w/o the whole car feeling like it's going to tip over to the outside edge.
C230:
The TEIN basic coilover kit is not damper adjustable. It's designed mostly for looks. It's only height adjustable, so if you don't like the softness/stiffness of the suspension, too bad. You bought it, you installed it, you live with it. For mine, it was definitely not as harsh as the stiffest setting on the Koni's (yes, I realize this was on a different car). Although it's supposedly a sports sedan, it doesn't take corners as well as my Rav4 once did. I know, hard to believe, but that goes to show you how much of a difference suspension can really make. To be completely honest, I think part of it has to do with the Rav4 being 4 wheel drive with better control vs the c230 which is rear wheel drive and tends to oversteer and the rear can potentially skid (and I have both on purpose and unintentionally).
WHAT ANY OF THIS HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH YOU:
Firstly, if you are pregnant, plan to be or have frequent passengers/drivers who are/will be, don't mess with the suspension. In my Rav4 experience above, I can feel my organs shaking and getting headaches. It's dramatic. I got used to it, but it's not a comfortable feeling for most people, particularly passengers who aren't experiencing the advantages first hand of improved cornering.
- If you're on a budget and are going for the lowered look and don't mind a bit of a harsher ride, get springs only. Do NOT cut your stock springs. There isn't much tolerance and you're likely to bottom out.
- If you're willing to spend a bit more but aren't really that hardcore about it, add some sport shocks/struts with the springs. I'm a fan of Koni yellows.
- If you want full height and damper adjustability for various drivers or driving styles/types, go for the coilover kit. The softest suspension still won't be anywhere near the softness of stock. Don't think you're increasing your range of adjustability to include all suspension qualities.
- Bagging it? Air suspension. I've recently become very interested in this, but my budget won't allow it and I have zero experience with this setup. No clue other than I think it looks cool that you can lower so much and raise the car to clear driveways and curbs that you normally wouldn't be able to with standard suspension types above. This most likely will require a big tank taking up trunk space. Not worth it for most people who own CX-5's.
WILL I BE LOWERING MY OWN CX-5?
Highly unlikely. Wife is the primary driver. She doesn't like stiff suspension. The suspension on it is actually quite stiff relative to what I'd expect out of a crossover. The only other one I've driven is the 2015 VW Tiguan and Toyota Rav4. If I mess with any suspension, it'll be on the next car where I'm the primary driver. With my driving being a lot less "spirited" after being a dad, I'm more on the slow and cautious side these days anyway.
I've lowered a 2002 Toyota Rav4 on Koni yellow struts/shocks with H&R lowering springs and
lowered a 2005 Mercedes c230 Kompressor Sports Sedan on TEIN basic coilover kit.
With stiffer suspension, bumps will feel extra bumpy and on the flip side, smooth asphalt will feel like driving on the smoothest surface you can think of it. Basically, it will exaggerate the texture of the road.
My impressions:
Rav4:
Going springs alone are definitely cheaper, but yes as others have mentioned, the ride will be harsher. The reason why is that b/c the ride height is lowered, it needs to compensate bumps in the road with a much shorter range. It does so by being stiffer so the car doesn't bottom out. The Koni yellows (damper adjustable) and H&R lowering springs combo was great. No one believes me, but I swear it drives like my mom's Mini Cooper S. I can turn a lot tighter and at much higher speeds. As for being bumpy, I gotta explain. Having stiffer sportier suspension is like jumping on the ground vs jumping on a bed. The impact to the ground is harsh, but it's just once. The impact on a bed is tons less harsh but it bounces over and over and over until there's no more bounce. So when people say "bumpy" as uncomfortable, you have to decide whether you think bouncing over and over and over on a soft suspension is more annoying or a quick harsh single slam is more annoying. The advantage of stiffer suspension is that you can take corners a lot better w/o the whole car feeling like it's going to tip over to the outside edge.
C230:
The TEIN basic coilover kit is not damper adjustable. It's designed mostly for looks. It's only height adjustable, so if you don't like the softness/stiffness of the suspension, too bad. You bought it, you installed it, you live with it. For mine, it was definitely not as harsh as the stiffest setting on the Koni's (yes, I realize this was on a different car). Although it's supposedly a sports sedan, it doesn't take corners as well as my Rav4 once did. I know, hard to believe, but that goes to show you how much of a difference suspension can really make. To be completely honest, I think part of it has to do with the Rav4 being 4 wheel drive with better control vs the c230 which is rear wheel drive and tends to oversteer and the rear can potentially skid (and I have both on purpose and unintentionally).
WHAT ANY OF THIS HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH YOU:
Firstly, if you are pregnant, plan to be or have frequent passengers/drivers who are/will be, don't mess with the suspension. In my Rav4 experience above, I can feel my organs shaking and getting headaches. It's dramatic. I got used to it, but it's not a comfortable feeling for most people, particularly passengers who aren't experiencing the advantages first hand of improved cornering.
- If you're on a budget and are going for the lowered look and don't mind a bit of a harsher ride, get springs only. Do NOT cut your stock springs. There isn't much tolerance and you're likely to bottom out.
- If you're willing to spend a bit more but aren't really that hardcore about it, add some sport shocks/struts with the springs. I'm a fan of Koni yellows.
- If you want full height and damper adjustability for various drivers or driving styles/types, go for the coilover kit. The softest suspension still won't be anywhere near the softness of stock. Don't think you're increasing your range of adjustability to include all suspension qualities.
- Bagging it? Air suspension. I've recently become very interested in this, but my budget won't allow it and I have zero experience with this setup. No clue other than I think it looks cool that you can lower so much and raise the car to clear driveways and curbs that you normally wouldn't be able to with standard suspension types above. This most likely will require a big tank taking up trunk space. Not worth it for most people who own CX-5's.
WILL I BE LOWERING MY OWN CX-5?
Highly unlikely. Wife is the primary driver. She doesn't like stiff suspension. The suspension on it is actually quite stiff relative to what I'd expect out of a crossover. The only other one I've driven is the 2015 VW Tiguan and Toyota Rav4. If I mess with any suspension, it'll be on the next car where I'm the primary driver. With my driving being a lot less "spirited" after being a dad, I'm more on the slow and cautious side these days anyway.
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Had my cx5 lowered on corksport springs. Rode like a brick. Chewed out the front tyres due to no camber adjustment. Just swapped them out and put BC Gold coilovers in. Rides so much better. Actually has travel now. Sits a lot nicer on the road as well. I guess it's the old saying "you get what you pay for"
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
No research done then. Camber is not adjustable oem. Camber plates and arms are available for lowered cars to prevent excessive tire wear, especially with very low cs style springs. Koni shocks are available for those who don't want/ need the extra adjustment provided b coilovers (and the extra maintenance). Tire choice also plays into wear.
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
That's not true. Entry level coilovers are rarely preloaded at zero for your car, adjusted for maximum wheels travel at your desired ride height and corner balanced; all things the owner has to do/have done for maximum effect. Granted a coil over is better than a low spring at the same height with a stock damper but it's not necessarily better than a as low spring with a properly match dampening rate. Someone who is not interested in adjusting their height isn't necessarily gaining anything by getting an entry level coilover $1000 (the same price or slightly higher than an aftermarket spring +damper). Coilovers are typically installed for a very low ride height, or track performance. They extra maintenance particularly when you factor in a low ride height with a higher offset (i.e "flush" or further out than OEM) wheel. That is usually the case and you will be tinkering and experimenting to find the dampening rate and camber that won't scrape the fender. Not saying that $1000 coilovers are bad (I have some), but they are rarely adjusted properly and typically, they come with an entry level spring (understand that more expensive springs are offered as upgrades by the manufacturer, along with revalving).
Wheel OFFSET will play a huge factor when people decide to go c/s or coil over low. Basically if you have an aftermarket wheels that is "flush" you can expect to have to adjust settings (camber or limit height) or encounter rubbing. Most people running 20x8.5" wheels for example have a et40 offset. That's enough to rub the outer fender on c/s or low coilovers, assuming you aren't running rubber band tires. Most people will not be buying an aftermarket wheel with the OEM offset (tucked in look). However, if you did stick with OEM offset you can go lower before you have to adjust camber and/or increase dampening to prevent rubbing from rebounding.
H&R spring height and up are better served with the spring only. Koni damper for improved dampening. C/S is on the low side of what you want for a spring only. Camber will become more of an issue, and the stock damper will be preloaded a lot (people report bottoming). Coil overs are probably the better choice for a C/S height and obviously the only choice for lower.
In the end, a C/S Spring + koni Damper + camber plate will cost about the same as a set of coilovers with less of the maintenance and gripes that come along with coilovers (creaking, clunking, collars coming loose/getting stuck etc). I'd be willing to bet the c/s spring has a better spring rate than the basic spring included on base model coil overs as well.
People need to understand certain modifications are or can be more involved than the effort it takes to simply put them on the car, especially when it comes to adjustable parts set at or near max performance and even more so when other modifications are present.
Wheel OFFSET will play a huge factor when people decide to go c/s or coil over low. Basically if you have an aftermarket wheels that is "flush" you can expect to have to adjust settings (camber or limit height) or encounter rubbing. Most people running 20x8.5" wheels for example have a et40 offset. That's enough to rub the outer fender on c/s or low coilovers, assuming you aren't running rubber band tires. Most people will not be buying an aftermarket wheel with the OEM offset (tucked in look). However, if you did stick with OEM offset you can go lower before you have to adjust camber and/or increase dampening to prevent rubbing from rebounding.
H&R spring height and up are better served with the spring only. Koni damper for improved dampening. C/S is on the low side of what you want for a spring only. Camber will become more of an issue, and the stock damper will be preloaded a lot (people report bottoming). Coil overs are probably the better choice for a C/S height and obviously the only choice for lower.
In the end, a C/S Spring + koni Damper + camber plate will cost about the same as a set of coilovers with less of the maintenance and gripes that come along with coilovers (creaking, clunking, collars coming loose/getting stuck etc). I'd be willing to bet the c/s spring has a better spring rate than the basic spring included on base model coil overs as well.
People need to understand certain modifications are or can be more involved than the effort it takes to simply put them on the car, especially when it comes to adjustable parts set at or near max performance and even more so when other modifications are present.
