What did you pay for your CX-5?

Okay, I'm at $30,420 after $500 customer cash with presumably standard mazda financing. My credit is impeccable, don't know what rate they will offer. I wanted to pay cash, so I'm going to push how much down payment I can give with the absolute smallest amount financed.

MSRP is $33,910. Couldn't get him to throw in the cargo cover :)

That's 10.2% off if you include the customer cash, or 8.8% off if you don't.

2018 AWD GT Premium Red/Black no dealer options.

The local dealers want to quote with roof rails, wheel locks, and bumper guard - none of which I want. Must be high margin.
 
Okay, I'm at $30,420 after $500 customer cash with presumably standard mazda financing. My credit is impeccable, don't know what rate they will offer. I wanted to pay cash, so I'm going to push how much down payment I can give with the absolute smallest amount financed.

MSRP is $33,910. Couldn't get him to throw in the cargo cover :)

That's 10.2% off if you include the customer cash, or 8.8% off if you don't.

2018 AWD GT Premium Red/Black no dealer options.

The local dealers want to quote with roof rails, wheel locks, and bumper guard - none of which I want. Must be high margin.

I think that is a good price for a 2018. Yes, the margins are high on those parts. Click on our advertiser and you can see they knock off 25% on many of the parts. So the dealer is probably making a few hundred on accessories.

To see if 0.0% is available in your area go to mazda website and click on current incentives.

In my area, they are offering 0.0% or $250 off. There are no other rates. You either qualify for 0.0 or you don't. Any other finance offers are through other banks. If you have a 0.0% option from Mazda, finance it all and put nothing down if you can afford the payment. Theoretically, whatever you have for a downpayment can sit in the bank and draw interest (should be able to earn 1% at least) and only take out what you need once a month to make a payment.
 
By cash price you mean mazda rebates - if they truly amounted to $4000 instead of 0% then you may have a winner. But the 0% is in place of $1000-$1500 (standard mazda finance incentive) - the other rebates are available regardless of how you pay. But even if you got back $4000 and paid $30K out of pocket, 0% is a better strategy.

And again, you are ignoring the cash flow part of the argument. If you printed money, then yes, paying cash would be better. But even millionaires are going to look at the $30K and realize they are giving up $3000+ in interest earned when they hand it over to mazda. On a 5 year plan, if you invested that $30K at 5% (lower risk mutual fund) you would earn $8000 over 5 years.

If you had paid cash for the car, you would not have $30K to invest as you gave it to mazda. Saving $4000 now is not better then earning $8000 later. Since there are no incentives that get me more then $1000 or $1500 (compared to taking 0%) - it is a no brainer. If your investment strategy is only a 1.5% savings account then even a $2000 rebate from mazda, bringing the price down to $28000, you would still come out ahead taking 0%; your interest earned would be more then $2000 so your net cost would be lower then $28000.

If you don't see this, then i guess we just agree to disagree.

Hey, I do see what you are saying, and in a perfect world, it makes sense. I get the math. Appreciate it.

Taking that 30K and investing it for five years is a sound strategy, if it works.
Investing is always risky though, especially in today's world, and unless you are an investment guru, or your name is Warren Buffett, or you have a crystal ball, you are as likely to lose money as win.
I don't know about the USA, but in Canada, interest rates on savings accounts, GIC's etc, are abysmal. No way will you make any money sticking your cash in the bank.
There's also the fact of annual inflation, cost of living increases.
I think that we can both agree that $30K today will not be worth $30K in five years if you stick it in a mattress.
Taking a five year inflation rate of 2.5%/year, then a 1.5% return on investment is a negative cash flow. You're losing money.
You need to make at least 4-5% per year on your investment to make it worthwhile, and that's never guaranteed.

Let's face it though, the majority of car buyers do not have the cash to pay for their purchase, so they have to finance it/borrow the money.
That's where the money is for car dealers.
If you finance it, you will pay interest. What that interest actually is, is hidden in this 0% sales pitch.
I just wish that there was some sort of legislation that forced car dealers to spell it out (in the contract), exactly how much the interest charges actually are.
My beef is with the dishonest way in which the 0% financing BS is presented.

It's like going to the bank, asking for $30,000 and telling them you'll pay it back in 5 years.
The bank then says, no problem, we'll give you the money, and in the next five years, you'll give us $32,000....at 0%.
That's my beef.
 
Hey, I do see what you are saying, and in a perfect world, it makes sense. I get the math. Appreciate it.

Taking that 30K and investing it for five years is a sound strategy, if it works.
Investing is always risky though, especially in today's world, and unless you are an investment guru, or your name is Warren Buffett, or you have a crystal ball, you are as likely to lose money as win.
I don't know about the USA, but in Canada, interest rates on savings accounts, GIC's etc, are abysmal. No way will you make any money sticking your cash in the bank.
There's also the fact of annual inflation, cost of living increases.
I think that we can both agree that $30K today will not be worth $30K in five years if you stick it in a mattress.
Taking a five year inflation rate of 2.5%/year, then a 1.5% return on investment is a negative cash flow. You're losing money.
You need to make at least 4-5% per year on your investment to make it worthwhile, and that's never guaranteed.

Let's face it though, the majority of car buyers do not have the cash to pay for their purchase, so they have to finance it/borrow the money.
That's where the money is for car dealers.
If you finance it, you will pay interest. What that interest actually is, is hidden in this 0% sales pitch.
I just wish that there was some sort of legislation that forced car dealers to spell it out (in the contract), exactly how much the interest charges actually are.
My beef is with the dishonest way in which the 0% financing BS is presented.

It's like going to the bank, asking for $30,000 and telling them you'll pay it back in 5 years.
The bank then says, no problem, we'll give you the money, and in the next five years, you'll give us $32,000....at 0%.
That's my beef.

OK, so let's be simple. If you don't have the cash to pay for your car and you must finance. Your choice is 0% or some outside party. Credit union, bank, whatever. Current best rates i have seen are 3%.

So you get cash back discount and finance at 3% or you get no cash back and finance at 0%.

Let's be generous - Mazda offers a $2000 rebate or 0% on a $30K car. Assuming you get the best rate out there and put nothing down:

Financing 28,000 at 3% will cost $30,180 while 0% will cost you $30K. 0% wins, by $180. Assuming no origination fee and you got the lowest rate out there, and assuming mazda was giving out $2000. Most consumers will never see all these perks. So 0% is an even better deal.
 
Looking to buy soon too. Was this quote from Liberty with 0% financing? Thanks.

Yes, for a car they had in-stock. Turns out that specific model was sold but he held the pricing for me and I'm going back this evening to finalize everything.

I think that is a good price for a 2018. Yes, the margins are high on those parts. Click on our advertiser and you can see they knock off 25% on many of the parts. So the dealer is probably making a few hundred on accessories.

To see if 0.0% is available in your area go to mazda website and click on current incentives.

In my area, they are offering 0.0% or $250 off. There are no other rates. You either qualify for 0.0 or you don't. Any other finance offers are through other banks. If you have a 0.0% option from Mazda, finance it all and put nothing down if you can afford the payment. Theoretically, whatever you have for a downpayment can sit in the bank and draw interest (should be able to earn 1% at least) and only take out what you need once a month to make a payment.

I think that's a pretty good deal too - I couldn't talk my dealer past 31 flat.


OK, so let's be simple. If you don't have the cash to pay for your car and you must finance. Your choice is 0% or some outside party. Credit union, bank, whatever. Current best rates i have seen are 3%.

So you get cash back discount and finance at 3% or you get no cash back and finance at 0%.

Let's be generous - Mazda offers a $2000 rebate or 0% on a $30K car. Assuming you get the best rate out there and put nothing down:

Financing 28,000 at 3% will cost $30,180 while 0% will cost you $30K. 0% wins, by $180. Assuming no origination fee and you got the lowest rate out there, and assuming mazda was giving out $2000. Most consumers will never see all these perks. So 0% is an even better deal.

The math gets even simpler when the rebate gets smaller. In the greater boston area right now, the options are 0% / $500 cash incentive. The 0% financing breaks even with $500 cash incentive around the 16-18 month mark, depending on total amount financed.
 
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Yes, for a car they had in-stock. Turns out that specific model was sold but he held the pricing for me and I'm going back this evening to finalize everything.



I think that's a pretty good deal too - I couldn't talk my dealer past 31 flat.




The math gets even simpler when the rebate gets smaller. In the greater boston area right now, the options are 0% / $500 cash incentive. The 0% financing breaks even with $500 cash incentive around the 16-18 month mark, depending on total amount financed.

Keep in mind that most 3rd party financing has origination fee and early payoff fee. So that $500 incentive is negated in most financing terms right off the bat.
 
Keep in mind that most 3rd party financing has origination fee and early payoff fee. So that $500 incentive is negated in most financing terms right off the bat.

Is that an OH thing? In TX, auto loans are simple interest loans that can be paid off at any time w/o any penalties
 
Is that an OH thing? In TX, auto loans are simple interest loans that can be paid off at any time w/o any penalties

Same here. Mine was a 4 year loan, would have been paid off in 3 1/2 had I not been unemployed for 5 months in 2016.

Still...paid it off a couple months early last year.
 
OK, so let's be simple. If you don't have the cash to pay for your car and you must finance. Your choice is 0% or some outside party. Credit union, bank, whatever. Current best rates i have seen are 3%.

So you get cash back discount and finance at 3% or you get no cash back and finance at 0%.

Let's be generous - Mazda offers a $2000 rebate or 0% on a $30K car. Assuming you get the best rate out there and put nothing down:

Financing 28,000 at 3% will cost $30,180 while 0% will cost you $30K. 0% wins, by $180. Assuming no origination fee and you got the lowest rate out there, and assuming mazda was giving out $2000. Most consumers will never see all these perks. So 0% is an even better deal.
Again, I get the math.
$28,000 cash, is $28,000 out of pocket. (Let's just forget the part about investing that money instead for a moment.)
$28,000 at 3% ends up at $30,180 out of pocket. I trust your math on this one btw. I didn't take out my calculator.
$28,000 at 0% ends up at $30,000 out of pocket.
Yes, the 0% price wins over the 3% price, but the point I've been trying to make is that the 0% price is $2,000 more than the cash price.
Even if the difference between the cash price and 0% is only $500, the finance price is still higher.
At the end of the day, you will always pay more if you finance it, no matter how they present it.
That's all I'm trying to say. Cheers.
 
Again, I get the math.
$28,000 cash, is $28,000 out of pocket. (Let's just forget the part about investing that money instead for a moment.)
$28,000 at 3% ends up at $30,180 out of pocket. I trust your math on this one btw. I didn't take out my calculator.
$28,000 at 0% ends up at $30,000 out of pocket.
Yes, the 0% price wins over the 3% price, but the point I've been trying to make is that the 0% price is $2,000 more than the cash price.
Even if the difference between the cash price and 0% is only $500, the finance price is still higher.
At the end of the day, you will always pay more if you finance it, no matter how they present it.
That's all I'm trying to say. Cheers.

In my area, if you do not finance through Mazda, you pay $1000 more for the car on the spot. I think it is a Mazda rebate. It isn't advertised, but the email quotes I got were contingent on Mazda financing. When I pressed for a cash price, more than one dealer quoted exactly $1000 more.
 
Funny you used that number:
"Even if the difference between the cash price and 0% is only $500, the finance price is still higher.”
Mother in law offered me cash to outright but my car. Asked dealer how much he'd take off for that. $500.
 
Hi all!

Interested in a 2018 CX-5 AWD Grand Touring with Premium Package in Machine Gray Metallic. Reached out to my local dealer for initial pricing and received the following:

The MSRP is $33615 and its invoice price is $32236. I can sell you the car for $31736. The only other additional fees are the $399 doc fee, $198 registration, and sales tax.

This is the first offer for me to respond to, and from what Ive come across on these forums, it seems like a good deal pre-TTL price would fall between $30,200 to $30,700? Is that accurate? What price or % off MSRP should I be shooting for and is realistic? Im in Connecticut, as location seems to have a fair impact as well. Thanks in advance!
 
Not bad at all. Try to get an accessory or two to sweeten the deal.
 
Not bad at all. Try to get an accessory or two to sweeten the deal.

So you think $31,736 is a fair price for the 18 GT AWD with Premium? Didnt know how much more I could squeeze out here in CT... I would like all weather mats, if you think accessories are where to negotiate from here....
 
I'm sorry, I read that wrong. I thought you were saying $30,200-700. Thats a decent deal, as you said.
Almost $32? That's not a great deal. Not awful...but not great.
 
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I'm sorry, I read that wrong. I thought you were saying $30,200-700. Thats a decent deal, as you said.
Almost $32? That's not a great deal. Not awful but not great either. MSRP is $32 and change.
Where is he getting an MSRP of $33? Not AWD is it? I mean:
5aaaf18ffa19dcf555d0affc0bbab792.jpg

Thanks for getting back so quickly. Yes, the MSRP shows $33,615 - it is the AWD GT with Premium Package - and the offer was $31,736. I got back to him saying Im continuing to shop and cited other prices I came across on these forums being more in the low 30s. Thanks for your help.
 
My comprehension skills aren't so great this morning.. I edited my post. It is AWD I see. Sorry for any confusion there.
 
Negotiating on a Mazda CX-5 is much more difficult than their other cars. With any car purchase, contact every dealer within the area that you'd be willing to drive to for the purchase. You also need to be 100% willing to walk away from a purchase to get the best deal. You know you have a good deal when the dealer is mad at you.

You should be able to get almost any Mazda for less than invoice price out the door. They aren't really trying to make money on the sale of the car so much as your continued service costs, accessories, etc.

The Mazda6, for example, is the perfect vehicle to pick up from them right now since it's an outgoing year. I initially planned to get a 2017.5 Mazda6, so I started there in my negotiations. I was able to get to $20306+TTL at 3 dealerships in SoCal on a Mazda6 2017.5 Touring edition. This included a $500 loyalty bonus, so the price is likely $500 higher for new Mazda owners.

The CX-5 though... My wife wanted to check it out and we both really enjoyed it. So I had to start over. Luckily, the dealerships knew I was willing to do a lot of legwork to get the price down, so it went faster even though there was less room to negotiate since the CX-5 is current (2018) and Mazda's best seller by far.

Anyway, we landed on a 2018 Mazda CX-5 Touring edition. Again, I had the $500 loyalty rebate as a current Mazda owner, and there was a $500 incentive on all CX-5s. I decided to go with 0% APR after securing a price quote and my final negotiation point was, "if we can do this price at 0% APR I'm in."

The price I was eventually able to get to was $26860 out-the-door, including TTL, at 0% APR. I don't have my final invoice in front of me so I don't know for certain what that is pre-TTL, but it's ~$24500 I believe.
 
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Doesnt seem like local dealers in my area are willing to go below $31,695 for the 2018 CX-5 AWD GT with Premium Package, if using the 0% financing. Anyone experiencing the same? Im shooting for $30,750 pre-TTL for Metallic Gray. Realistic in the northeast?
 
Doesn’t seem like local dealers in my area are willing to go below $31,695 for the 2018 CX-5 AWD GT with Premium Package, if using the 0% financing. Anyone experiencing the same? I’m shooting for $30,750 pre-TTL for Metallic Gray. Realistic in the northeast?

With '17 still on the lots in many places it seems unlikely you will get that low. Maybe at end of quarter, maybe not. If it is a hot selling car, they will have no reason to discount that low.
 
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