What did you pay for your CX-5?

Hello all. My first post on the forum. I'm in the market for CX-5 GT-R.
May I ask, is there a step-by-step shopping and negotiating guide somewhere on the forum?
 
Hello all. My first post on the forum. I'm in the market for CX-5 GT-R.
May I ask, is there a step-by-step shopping and negotiating guide somewhere on the forum?

No, not really, but it mainly goes like this...

Email as many dealers as you can in your radius you're willing to travel (mine is 500 miles), although it doesn't hurt to get a quote from anywhere.

In the email, tell them exact wlyhat you're looking for, GT-R with whatever options.

Ask them to break down the price separately with no rebates (only rebates everyone qualifies for). You want a breakdown to include MSRP, Selling price after dealer discount, Doc fees, and any other fees that may apply.

Tell them you're looking for the lowest price and you're ready to buy from the dealer who gives it to you.

You will hear back from some, and others will ignore. All good.

Then, begin to narrow down to the best 3-5 and see how low they're willing to go through more emails.

Report back here once you've done this for more help if you chose.

IDK your location, so IDK the Customer Cash you have in your area, or any other rebates you may qualify for. All good, we're shooting for the lowest selling price here basically without a high doc fee (it's negotiable in the selling price, don't let them tell you otherwise).

Hope this helps. Please feel free to ask questions. Good luck and I hope you get your new ride at the price you'd hoped.
 
No, not really, but it mainly goes like this...

Email as many dealers as you can in your radius you're willing to travel (mine is 500 miles), although it doesn't hurt to get a quote from anywhere.

In the email, tell them exact wlyhat you're looking for, GT-R with whatever options.

Ask them to break down the price separately with no rebates (only rebates everyone qualifies for). You want a breakdown to include MSRP, Selling price after dealer discount, Doc fees, and any other fees that may apply.

Tell them you're looking for the lowest price and you're ready to buy from the dealer who gives it to you.

You will hear back from some, and others will ignore. All good.

Then, begin to narrow down to the best 3-5 and see how low they're willing to go through more emails.

Report back here once you've done this for more help if you chose.

IDK your location, so IDK the Customer Cash you have in your area, or any other rebates you may qualify for. All good, we're shooting for the lowest selling price here basically without a high doc fee (it's negotiable in the selling price, don't let them tell you otherwise).

Hope this helps. Please feel free to ask questions. Good luck and I hope you get your new ride at the price you'd hoped.

Great summary, one thing to add: shop prices the last week of the month for added dealer incentive. They always have quotas to hit and it gives you more leverage to make the deal by the end of the month.
 
Hey guys, first post here. We are in the market for TWO CX-5 Signatures 2019. I know the end of Nov is a great time to buy, but we kinda wanna wait until March once the snow passes because we don*t have a garage. Will they still be selling new 2019s in March? And will we get a similar deal at the end of March as we would the end of November?
 
Hey guys, first post here. We are in the market for TWO CX-5 Signatures 2019. I know the end of Nov is a great time to buy, but we kinda wanna wait until March once the snow passes because we don*t have a garage. Will they still be selling new 2019s in March?

Maybe. But they'll probably have some test drive miles on them.

And will we get a similar deal at the end of March as we would the end of November?

Most definitely. Promotions and rates might vary, but there's always an incentive of some kind and an artificial expiration date at the end of each month for the promos. Your payment isn't going to change much at all based on which month you buy.
 
Also, a garage will protect the vehicle from the elements, but it's a rapidly depreciating asset either way, so I wouldn't base my purchasing decision off that. Are you buying a new house or moving to a place with a garage? If you plan on owning the car for more than a year or two, it matters very little.
 
Hey guys, first post here. We are in the market for TWO CX-5 Signatures 2019. I know the end of Nov is a great time to buy, but we kinda wanna wait until March once the snow passes because we don*t have a garage. Will they still be selling new 2019s in March? And will we get a similar deal at the end of March as we would the end of November?

Does your dealer store their vehicles indoors?

If there are, by chance, any '19 Signatures left in March, you would get a much better deal on them than now. However, they would probably be demos. You would also be limited on color choice. Your best bet would be to monitor local inventory and plan to purchase as soon as the 2020's hit the lots.
 
No, not really, but it mainly goes like this...

Email as many dealers as you can in your radius you're willing to travel (mine is 500 miles), although it doesn't hurt to get a quote from anywhere.

In the email, tell them exact wlyhat you're looking for, GT-R with whatever options.

Ask them to break down the price separately with no rebates (only rebates everyone qualifies for). You want a breakdown to include MSRP, Selling price after dealer discount, Doc fees, and any other fees that may apply.

Tell them you're looking for the lowest price and you're ready to buy from the dealer who gives it to you.

You will hear back from some, and others will ignore. All good.

Then, begin to narrow down to the best 3-5 and see how low they're willing to go through more emails.

Report back here once you've done this for more help if you chose.

IDK your location, so IDK the Customer Cash you have in your area, or any other rebates you may qualify for. All good, we're shooting for the lowest selling price here basically without a high doc fee (it's negotiable in the selling price, don't let them tell you otherwise).

Hope this helps. Please feel free to ask questions. Good luck and I hope you get your new ride at the price you'd hoped.

Thank you zoomzoom, that is very helpful for me and maybe also for others as well.

This may be a dumb question, but how to get the dealer's email address? Should I call and request to speak to the internet sales department?

Also, if a dealer-owner has multiple stores at different locations around the metro area, will they compete with one another?
 
Thank you zoomzoom, that is very helpful for me and maybe also for others as well.

This may be a dumb question, but how to get the dealer's email address? Should I call and request to speak to the internet sales department?

Also, if a dealer-owner has multiple stores at different locations around the metro area, will they compete with one another?

You can normally find the email address on their website, or if you inquire through the car ad on their website. Theres normally an inquire button beside the car picture thatll say Get best internet price or something similar to that.

Personally, I do all communication by email, but I may call once I get the deal I want to make sure it is legit (I called when I bought mine and told the salesman to send me a PDF of the paperwork Id be signing after I got the deal I was looking for)

Yes, the dealers although owned by the same group will definitely compete with each other.
 
Thank you zoomzoom, that is very helpful for me and maybe also for others as well.

This may be a dumb question, but how to get the dealer's email address? Should I call and request to speak to the internet sales department?

Also, if a dealer-owner has multiple stores at different locations around the metro area, will they compete with one another?

mazdausa.com..go to inventory search and click on dealer to get emails.
 
So here's my deal on a new (5 miles on the ODO) CX-5 GT Reserve in Soul Red. I initially wanted the Machine Gray, but this dealer only had the red which was my second choice. Kinda spiffy, huh? I'll be picking it up on the 16th.

I wanted the window tint and Smart Shield. I think the Smart Shield is a fair price, but not sure about the price on the tinting. Regardless, I am very happy. I also got anti-theft window etching and one year free scratch and dent removal at the dealership.

Now I have to get to ordering the Premier Floor Mats from Canada, the cargo cover and OEM Cargo tray for starters.

MSRP/Retail $36,910.00
Selling Price $33,033.90
Total Savings $3,876.10 (10.5%)
Doc Fees $499.00
Window Tint $799.00
SMART SHIELD $899.00
Total Taxes $2,769.10
OTD Price $38,000.00

Edit: Well, my bad, after all the research I did, I made the assumption that the Smart Shield was a film add-on. It's not. So. we can take $899 off my discount which reduces it to 8%. So, I'm still OK, but now feel ripped off, but it's my own fault for not asking. I got sloppy at the end.
 
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So here's my deal on a new (5 miles on the ODO) CX-5 GT Reserve in Soul Red. I initially wanted the Machine Gray, but this dealer only had the red which was my second choice. Kinda spiffy, huh? I'll be picking it up on the 16th.

I wanted the window tint and Smart Shield. I think the Smart Shield is a fair price, but not sure about the price on the tinting. Regardless, I am very happy. I also got anti-theft window etching and one year free scratch and dent removal at the dealership.

Now I have to get to ordering the Premier Floor Mats from Canada, the cargo cover and OEM Cargo tray for starters.

MSRP/Retail $36,910.00
Selling Price $33,033.90
Total Savings $3,876.10 (10.5%)
Doc Fees $499.00
Window Tint $799.00
SMART SHIELD $899.00
Total Taxes $2,769.10
OTD Price $38,000.00

Nice. I really think the OEM Mazda cargo mat is the best one out there, in terms of price, fit, and quality. Amazon has it for a better price than the dealer. The Weathertech is a lot more expensive with shipping and thinner. Day 1 upgrade for sure.
 
Now I have to get to ordering the Premier Floor Mats from Canada, the cargo cover and OEM Cargo tray for starters.

I really like the Premier Floor Mats from Canada. It was the only thing I could salvage (along with my pedal covers) when my first GTR got totaled. The cargo cover & cargo tray were a bit too mangled & covered in broken glass. I did get new ones for my new GTR. Definitely first things to add.
 
Alright, how did I do?
2019 Mazda CX-5 Signature Machine Gray
MSRP- $38,235
Sale Price- $34,230 (Includes $500 Mazda Rebate)
Floor Mats & Cargo Tray- $130
Doc Fee- $179.81
Sales Tax- $2,563.04
Plates and Fees- $283.50
OTD- $37,389
About a 9.23% Discount before the $500 Mazda Cash Rebate
 
Nice, where?

Hey thank you everyone here!!!! The input were super helpful.
So finally bought CX5 touring AWD with PP in NYC.
MSRP:30435 including destination
Dealer discount:3085
Total OTD:27350+ taxes and fees
Doc fee was 75
Registration was 223
Plus some 20 bucks for tires and other fee
Our total was 29400 since we paid less taxes as we traded in our old civic.

Mind sharing which NYC-area dealership that was at? Or you can direct message me?
 
MSRP/Retail $36,910.00
Selling Price $33,033.90
Total Savings $3,876.10 (10.5%)
Doc Fees $499.00
Window Tint $799.00
SMART SHIELD $899.00
Total Taxes $2,769.10
OTD Price $38,000.00

Edit: Well, my bad, after all the research I did, I made the assumption that the Smart Shield was a film add-on. It's not. So. we can take $899 off my discount which reduces it to 8%. So, I'm still OK, but now feel ripped off, but it's my own fault for not asking. I got sloppy at the end.
You're making the common mistake of not including ALL dealer charges/fees into the selling price.

You paid the dealer $35,230.90 for the vehicle. You got a 4.5% discount off MSRP.

If a dealer sells the car for $1000, and charges a $32,000 doc fee, does that mean you got a 97% discount?
Of course not. Which is why you need to add up ALL of the various dealer charges/fees to come up with the actual Selling Price.

This is a trick car dealer's have used since the beginning of time.
Show you a low "selling price" so you think you got a good deal, then tack on all sorts of high margin and little to no value charges...
Doc fees, smart shield, tint, pinstripes, interior protection, window etching, dent removal, extended warranties, service/maintenance contracts, tire/wheel warranties, ect.

All of this stuff is pure dealer profit and should be included in any selling price.
 
You're making the common mistake of not including ALL dealer charges/fees into the selling price.

You paid the dealer $35,230.90 for the vehicle. You got a 4.5% discount off MSRP.

If a dealer sells the car for $1000, and charges a $32,000 doc fee, does that mean you got a 97% discount?
Of course not. Which is why you need to add up ALL of the various dealer charges/fees to come up with the actual Selling Price.

This is a trick car dealer's have used since the beginning of time.
Show you a low "selling price" so you think you got a good deal, then tack on all sorts of high margin and little to no value charges...
Doc fees, smart shield, tint, pinstripes, interior protection, window etching, dent removal, extended warranties, service/maintenance contracts, tire/wheel warranties, ect.

All of this stuff is pure dealer profit and should be included in any selling price.

Doc fees and Sales tax are not part of MSRP because they vary by state. I paid $34,731.90 for the car including tint and Smart Shield. Doc fees and sales tax are on top. By my calculation (2179 / 36910.00) that is a 5.9% discount (my math WAS off above, I don't know where I got that number) which is still the best (even with the add-ons) that I could get when shopping 6 dealers from Las Vegas to Albuquerque. The next best was for the Machine Gray ($250 cheaper on the paint job than the Soul Red) in Albuquerque that I could get for $37,350 and a 10 hour drive on I40. So adding in the additional $250 for the red paint, I was saving $400. It wasn't worth it. The other dealers with NO add-ons still wanted $38,900 for the Soul Red Reserve. So, when all is said and done, I got the best deal that I could over 3 weeks of negotiations despite the $1700 in add-ons. It is what it is. I did my homework. I just screwed up the percentage math. The bottom line didn't change.
 
Doc fees and Sales tax are not part of MSRP because they vary by state. I paid $34,731.90 for the car including tint and Smart Shield. Doc fees and sales tax are on top. By my calculation (2179 / 36910.00) that is a 5.9% discount.

You are confused about what the Doc Fee is. it is NOT a fee charged by the state. It goes directly to the dealer as pure 100% profit.
It is simply a way for dealers to offer you a great "Selling Price", then hit you with the "Doc Fee" to increase their profits.

All fees/charges assessed by the dealership, including the doc fee, should be included in your final "Selling Price."
The only charges that should be excluded from your final "Selling Price" are government-mandated fees.
These include sales tax, title/registration charges, and temp tags.

So when you correctly add the Doc Fee to your Selling Price, your actual discount is 4.5%.
Your selling price was $35,230.90 (Vehicle Price+Doc Fee+Tint+Dumb Shield).
That is what you paid the dealer, and the correct price used to calculate the discount.

I'm not picking on you, as many people make this mistake.
It is frustrating to see people post on here that they paid $xx,xxx "plus fees."
Those dealer-driven fees need to be included in the sale price.
 
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You are confused about what the Doc Fee is. it is NOT a fee charged by the state. It goes directly to the dealer as pure 100% profit.
It is simply a way for dealers to offer you a great "Selling Price", then hit you with the "Doc Fee" to increase their profits.

All fees/charges assessed by the dealership, including the doc fee, should be included in your final "Selling Price."
The only charges that should be excluded from your final "Selling Price" are government-mandated fees.
These include sales tax, title/registration charges, and temp tags.

So when you correctly add the Doc Fee to your Selling Price, your actual discount is 4.5%.
Your selling price was $35,230.90 (Vehicle Price+Doc Fee+Tint+Dumb Shield).
That is what you paid the dealer, and the correct price used to calculate the discount.

I'm not picking on you, as many people make this mistake.
It is frustrating to see people post on here that they paid $xx,xxx "plus fees."
Those dealer-driven fees need to be included in the sale price.

I am not confused what a doc fee is. It does vary by state because some states limit what a dealer may charge and others don't. It doesn't matter that it's a profit center, you cannot use it as part of the MSRP, because Mazda USA certainly does not. The cheapest doc fee was in New Mexico at $345 and the most expensive in Phoenix at $499. Not much you can do about that and not worth arguing about.

You can figure the numbers any way that you want to, but I took the best deal I could get in the part of the country I live in. I did my due diligence and I've bought a few cars in my 68 years. Stop talking to me as if I'm stupid. My fees are included in the sale price, I said I am paying $38000 OTD. The OTD price includes all the fees and sales tax. $38000 was the best price I got without having to drive 10 hours.

Other than finding a simple math error, my numbers still stand and I don't know why to feel the need to lecture me.
 
I am not confused what a doc fee is. It does vary by state because some states limit what a dealer may charge and others don't. It doesn't matter that it's a profit center, you cannot use it as part of the MSRP, because Mazda USA certainly does not.

My fees are included in the sale price, I said I am paying $38000 OTD.

Again, I'm not picking on you.
I'm simply explaining, to everyone who might post here, what should be included in the dealer price and how to calculate your discount.

I'm not saying the doc fee should be included "as part of the MSRP" as you claim above.
I'm saying it should have been part of the "Selling Price" line in your original post.

Here is what you posted, which is incorrect...
MSRP/Retail $36,910.00
Selling Price $33,033.90
Total Savings $3,876.10 (10.5%)


Here is the correct way...
MSRP/Retail $36,910.00
Selling Price $35,230.90
Total Savings $1,679.10 (4.5%)


You have to factor all of those dealer charges in your "Selling Price." In my earlier example, what if dealers...
- Sold you the car for $1,000, then added a $32,000 doc fee.
- Sold you the car for $32,000, then added a $1,000 doc fee.
No matter what shell game the dealer plays with the numbers, you are still paying $33,000 for the car.
 
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