What did you pay for your CX-5?

Just picked up my first Mazda this week

2018 CX-5 GT/AWD/Premium, Red ext/Black, with Roof rail/All season mat/Cargo Tray in the Bay Area
Sales price: $30910 plus $1000 rebate which brought it down to $29910

The second best quote I've gotten was $29888 (rebate included), but without any accessories.
 
Can anyone offer any data points for a base 2018 CX-5 GT AWD in Boston area, such as selling price or percentage off MSRP? Thanks.
 
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Can anyone offer any data points for a base 2018 CX-5 GT AWD in Boston area, such as selling price or percentage off MSRP? Thanks.

The quote I got a few up from here is Costco pricing at the Norwood mazda location. I'm going in tomorrow to get pricing at Liberty in Danvers on the same car and we'll see how that stacks up.
 
The quote I got a few up from here is Costco pricing at the Norwood mazda location. I'm going in tomorrow to get pricing at Liberty in Danvers on the same car and we'll see how that stacks up.

Try Quirk Mazda in Quincy, too. Let me know what's being offered at Liberty. Thanks.
 
Just picked up my first Mazda this week

2018 CX-5 GT/AWD/Premium, Red ext/Black, with Roof rail/All season mat/Cargo Tray in the Bay Area
Sales price: $30910 plus $1000 rebate which brought it down to $29910

The second best quote I've gotten was $29888 (rebate included), but without any accessories.

Did you finance, or pay cash? If finance, are there early pay-off penalties?

I've been quoted $30,799 for your 2nd configuration over email near Portland Oregon after $500 customer cash, although the dealer discount had an asterisk that said *When Using Standard Mazda APR. Not sure if they'll honor that if paying cash. Another local dealer says that price is too good to be true and there are probably shenanigans with the financing clause.

MSRP for that config is $33,910.
 
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Did you finance, or pay cash? If finance, are there early pay-off penalties?

I've been quoted $30,799 for your 2nd configuration over email near Portland Oregon after $500 customer cash, although the dealer discount had an asterisk that said *When Using Standard Mazda APR. Not sure if they'll honor that if paying cash. Another local dealer says that price is too good to be true and there are probably shenanigans with the financing clause.

MSRP for that config is $33,910.

On my 17 the dealer i have dealt with for years swore up and down there was no way I was getting the price I was getting. One time he was correct, the price was based on 3rd party financing. But I got another price quoted using cash/Mazda 0% and my dealer still swore it was impossible. I bought the car for the impossible price and 0% APR.

But some dealers do add "Protection packages" that they don't quote when talking car price. And most finance deals (other then mazda) have origination fees and early payoff penalties as you noted.
 
If someone added protection packages and didn't discuss that immediately I would nope right out of there. That's bulls***
 
CUSTOMER A
Sale Price: $27,000
Rebates: $1,750
Finance Rate: 3.00%
OTD Price: $25,250 + TTF

CUSTOMER B
Sale Price: $27,000
Rebates: $0
Finance Rate: 0%
OTD Price: $27,000 + TTF

Customer B is paying $1,750 more than Customer A, yet Mazda says that Customer B is getting 0% financing.
That's BS.
Customer B is paying $1,750 to finance his purchase. That's hardly 0%.
Smoke and mirrors.
 
If someone added protection packages and didn't discuss that immediately I would nope right out of there. That's bulls***

They tell you when there, but if you ask them Car price, they don't mention it unless you ask Out the door price. So they are being honest if you just negotiate the price of the car compared to MSRP or Invoice. I don't say i agree, but that is what they are doing.

They do expose it before you go to finance.

I think the finance stuff is more BS - they tell you "we got you a great rate at 4%", but they don't tell you their is an origination fee or early term fee until you get into the finance office.
 
That's not quite how I see it. Agree it's smoke and mirrors, though. But both buyers are paying the same price. If the customer with the interest rate only makes minimum payments, the accrued interest will probably wind up to be...$1745. and the guy with the interest rate is going to have an early payoff termination fee.

They always get their money.
 
Customer B is paying $1,750 more than Customer A, yet Mazda says that Customer B is getting 0% financing.
That's BS.
Customer B is paying $1,750 to finance his purchase. That's hardly 0%.
Smoke and mirrors.

You only quoted my example, not what I was trying to explain. Yes, Customer B is paying $1750 (most don't qualify for that much in rebates) to finance at 0%, I agree. I was trying to say that when they both come to the message board and disclose what price they paid, if they both quoted the OTD price it would seem as though A got a better deal. That is not true though since they both got the same price from the dealer.
 
Customer B is paying $1,750 more than Customer A, yet Mazda says that Customer B is getting 0% financing.
That's BS.
Customer B is paying $1,750 to finance his purchase. That's hardly 0%.
Smoke and mirrors.


If you are going down that path, then you have to also say that Customer A is paying over $2000 in interest on the life of the loan, and likely a $500 origination fee. Oh, and many of the new loans have you pay the interest if you pay it off early, so that is not an out. That also means that, the rebate is not really lowering your payments as that $2000 in interest was factored back in.

And this example for rebate amount is inflated - as usually it is only $1000 or 0% - so the 0% savings is even bigger.

And customer B, at 0% interest could invest the $2000+ he is not paying in interest to earn interest. And if as above, you get the rebates, and have the cash to pay off early, and there is no early payment penalty, you still paid an origination fee, and that cash you use to pay off the loan would have been better served in some other investment vehicle earning 4-10% over time.

0% is always better.
 
0% is always better.

Can't always agree on that one, sorry.
In simple terms, no lender will give you money for nothing.
In your example, the 0% financing deal is better than the 3% financing deal.
What I was trying to say (and didn't say very well), is that paying cash will always be the cheapest way to pay for a car.
I know of no financial institution that will lend you $30,000, and then give you 5 years to pay it back, without interest.
The world doesn't work that way.
0% financing is a marketing tool, nothing more.
No matter how you slice it up, somewhere along the way, the buyer is paying interest on that loan.
When I bought my Mazda 6 last fall, I had a choice between cash price, and financing price.
The cash price was always lower.
Look closely at the car ads (not just Mazda). Every ad quotes a cash price..OR...a 0% financing price.
The 0% financing price is always higher.
I paid cash, and received the $4,000 Mazda discount (among other things). I would not have gotten it if I financed it (at 0%).
It just bugs me when car manufacturers are fooling buyers into thinking that they are not paying interest when they finance their car.
 
Can't always agree on that one, sorry.
In simple terms, no lender will give you money for nothing.
In your example, the 0% financing deal is better than the 3% financing deal.
What I was trying to say (and didn't say very well), is that paying cash will always be the cheapest way to pay for a car.
I know of no financial institution that will lend you $30,000, and then give you 5 years to pay it back, without interest.
The world doesn't work that way.
0% financing is a marketing tool, nothing more.
No matter how you slice it up, somewhere along the way, the buyer is paying interest on that loan.
When I bought my Mazda 6 last fall, I had a choice between cash price, and financing price.
The cash price was always lower.
Look closely at the car ads (not just Mazda). Every ad quotes a cash price..OR...a 0% financing price.
The 0% financing price is always higher.
I paid cash, and received the $4,000 Mazda discount (among other things). I would not have gotten it if I financed it (at 0%).
It just bugs me when car manufacturers are fooling buyers into thinking that they are not paying interest when they finance their car.

By cash price you mean mazda rebates - if they truly amounted to $4000 instead of 0% then you may have a winner. But the 0% is in place of $1000-$1500 (standard mazda finance incentive) - the other rebates are available regardless of how you pay. But even if you got back $4000 and paid $30K out of pocket, 0% is a better strategy.

And again, you are ignoring the cash flow part of the argument. If you printed money, then yes, paying cash would be better. But even millionaires are going to look at the $30K and realize they are giving up $3000+ in interest earned when they hand it over to mazda. On a 5 year plan, if you invested that $30K at 5% (lower risk mutual fund) you would earn $8000 over 5 years.

If you had paid cash for the car, you would not have $30K to invest as you gave it to mazda. Saving $4000 now is not better then earning $8000 later. Since there are no incentives that get me more then $1000 or $1500 (compared to taking 0%) - it is a no brainer. If your investment strategy is only a 1.5% savings account then even a $2000 rebate from mazda, bringing the price down to $28000, you would still come out ahead taking 0%; your interest earned would be more then $2000 so your net cost would be lower then $28000.

If you don't see this, then i guess we just agree to disagree.
 
Did you finance, or pay cash? If finance, are there early pay-off penalties?

I've been quoted $30,799 for your 2nd configuration over email near Portland Oregon after $500 customer cash, although the dealer discount had an asterisk that said *When Using Standard Mazda APR. Not sure if they'll honor that if paying cash. Another local dealer says that price is too good to be true and there are probably shenanigans with the financing clause.

MSRP for that config is $33,910.

It was through standard Finance of 4.99%; which I have to keep for 3 months and then switch to a lower rate (~3.0% w/auto payment). I paid ~half, no Mazda royalty rebate since it was my first ever Mazda.
Best deal I got for 'special finance' was only ~$2000 off MSRP.
 
So if I get standard Mazda financing, there is no origination fee, no early payoff fee, and I can pay off the balance in a couple of months if I choose? That's what the local dealers are saying. I'm wary of getting to the paperwork at the end and reading crap clauses in the financing contract, for financing that I don't want or need but that are apparently tied to rebates.

Also, are the rebates instantaneous? It didn't occur to me that I could have to pay state tax on the amount before rebate.
 
So if I get standard Mazda financing, there is no origination fee, no early payoff fee, and I can pay off the balance in a couple of months if I choose? That's what the local dealers are saying. I'm wary of getting to the paperwork at the end and reading crap clauses in the financing contract, for financing that I don't want or need but that are apparently tied to rebates.

Also, are the rebates instantaneous? It didn't occur to me that I could have to pay state tax on the amount before rebate.

Yes - for 0% no origination fee, no early penalty. I assume 1.9% is the same. Through Chase. No fineprint, finance guy has to be upfront and disclose terms. But why pay off 0%?

Rebates come off sale price AFTER taxes are configured, but before financing. No actual cash back in your pocket. They are right on the contract and come off the total financed.

EDIT: as finance deals are in place of rebates, they are less restrictive (hidden fees). I have done 0% and 0.9% from other manufacturers and they all tend to be similar in this regard (all i have used).
 
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