2008 Mazda5, banging/rattling noise in front suspension

m5pa said:

So, like many of the posters here, I too have the clunk coming from the read end. So it's either the bushings, shocks or sway bar links, in that order? By order, I mean most likely to be the problem to least. It's a clunk with a rattle, most noticeable at slow speeds over uneven surfaces (which thanks to PA winter, there's a lot of!). 08 5 GT with 29k on the clock.

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Have you always had the noise coming from the rear? Do the noises sound anything like what i have uploaded (from recordings on your cell phone)?

Davicho said:

Also, I am on the search for used 2012+ rear springs because they are supposed to be firmer with a higher spring rate which can help the rear feel a bit firmer without lowering the height and in turn help prolong the rear shock life. I just can't seem to find anyone selling them nor have I had luck with my contact at a huge salvage yard. I'll keep you all posted.

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If you find the rear springs are higher rate let us know, I'd like to have a rear spring with a higher rating that doesn't change the ride height.

Bluesideup said:

If you find the rear springs are higher rate let us know, I'd like to have a rear spring with a higher rating that doesn't change the ride height.

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Saw on another Mazda 5 web site (detect): http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123827975-Upgrade-on-2006-rear-suspension-to-2012

Hope this helps!

So, after reading 5 pages; the cure for the annoying thunks/rattling over bumps in the front (especially in the cold) in my wife's 2010 is new front sway bar bushings? I've been meaning to get it in the air and investigate, but it's been dumb cold even in the garage...and the 8" of snow today doesn't help either.

chief_wiggum said:

So, after reading 5 pages; the cure for the annoying thunks/rattling over bumps in the front (especially in the cold) in my wife's 2010 is new front sway bar bushings? I've been meaning to get it in the air and investigate, but it's been dumb cold even in the garage...and the 8" of snow today doesn't help either.

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That's the first thing to replace from historic feedback around here. The second would be end links if my memory serves me correctly. The third would be strut mounts.

chief_wiggum said:

So, after reading 5 pages; the cure for the annoying thunks/rattling over bumps in the front (especially in the cold) in my wife's 2010 is new front sway bar bushings? I've been meaning to get it in the air and investigate, but it's been dumb cold even in the garage...and the 8" of snow today doesn't help either.

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My apologizes for having you go through all that crap. The 5 pages are my way of saying "don't be stupid like me!". or, "if you don't know s**t about cars... good luck!"... get my drift? lol

So basically, don't act on or have absolute conviction in any TSB's, stealerships or your irrational fears. Also, be certain you have the right size before ordering any parts (where size is of absolute importance...rear bushing sizes: case in point)

Anywhos, my non-expert advice: bushings are a good start. If they're cracked, replace them. If they are not cracked, grease them. If that doesn't help... end links, shocks, control arms or control arm bushings)... good luck!

Hopefully you can DIY all of this.

So I had someone else measure the rear bushing (whose not cockeyed like myself lol). 20 mm seems to be the right size... sh*t!

I live in an apartment but just bought a whole bunch of tools and stored them in my brothers garage... so imma DIY putting the Mazda bushings back. I just need to get over my fear of working under a car *shiver*... thanks Mazda! you've inspired me to do my own car repairs.

I'd use my family mechanics garage if it was closer to where I live. Or, I could get him to do the bushings but he's been getting enough shi*t from family for "breaking my 5". Don't want to put him through any more crap than I already have. Also, family mechanics give you family service... they save you money but take a long time. I only have one car right now so can't afford to be without it for a long time...I've been waiting over 6 months now for my Ali Express spoiler to get painted

I'll be greasing the bushings with an aerosol silicone lube per recommendation from my family mechanic and a friend who is "knowledgeable" about cars.

tech_az sorry to hear all your problem. That rear control arm problem might be due to defective casting. What is the reason you change the OEM arm? Tire camber problem? Sorry If I miss it.

As for swaybar bushing I highly recommend Moog Thermoplastic bushing. They does not need any lubrication and would not squeak like polyurethane.

I never driven on FSD equipped vehicle so I could not commend on it. I been thru a couple strut change in the last month or two.

At 35K miles one of my OEM rear strut are bad. The compression are just weak so is the rebound. I replaced all with Monroe OESpectrum and it improved quite a bit but still feel a bit harsh if both wheel hit expansion joints. It actually handles pretty good and corner flat. Mazda are not known for cushy ride anyway. To be honest Monroe OE spectrum would be good choice for most people.

3 Weeks latter decided to return the Monroe and get Koni Sports/Yellow because it was on sale and found really good deal on it. I am actually pretty impressed with that I decided to get another set for my other car.

A few things are clearly better with Koni Yellow:
1. The adjustment help me to compensate some other problem I have with my suspension setup. My rear swaybar are 32mm thick and are at least 300% stiffer than OEM. By having the front stiffer it help to compensate for that problem.
2. Transition during cornering are a lot smoother and feel a lot more stable. What I mean is if you try to make small correction during cornering it does not make the body wiggle.
3. The ride with OEM spring are softer. Impact from expansion joint does not make me feel the tire are losing contact for a moment.
4. My kid does not complaint anymore in the back that they feel they are being tossed left and right by the super stiff RSB. Much stronger rebound damping reduce the previously neck snapping feeling to a much softer movement.

well, i finally got the car in the air, not sure what good it did; the front sway bar bushings look alright, in that they are not obviously cracked or worn. Everything else appeared tight and in order. Put the wheels back on, got it off the jack stands, and backing out of my garage is about a 3/4-1 inch drop to the driveway pad...clunk; sigh. I guess at this point it's ignore it (easy since it's the wife's daily driver and she claims to not notice it), change the front sway bar bushings (which look like a PITA to get to) or take it back to the dealer for a 'diagnosis'. it definitely sounds suspension related to me, originating in the front passenger side. i checked the struts and strut mounts, and no obvious wear there. The car feels solid, no slop in steering or anything obviously out of whack. I just had the oil changed and tires rotated and they didn't notice anything unusual...granted, they weren't looking for it either, though i'd hope they spot anything obvious.

It does sound like this;

Finally got to investigate the noise today. I started with the rear sway bar links because they "didn't look right". And they weren't. The manual gives how much torque should move the links, using a torque wrench and an allen wrench. Didn't even bother because I could move both very easily. Dust covers were in bad shape,etc.

Took about an hour and a half, maybe longer waiting for the Aerokroil to penetrate those Rust Belt affected nuts (car only has 30k on it too). 4.5 allen wrench and 14 mm wrench (ratcheting wrench if you got it) worked best. Test drive revealed no noise! Rear end feels much stiffer too.

I know now how it works, so it will be faster next time. I'm sure there will be a next time...

Fronts look like a PITA, not looking forward to them, but it looks like I'm good for now.

BTW, the Moog links I installed had Zerk fittings with them (greaseable). The FoMoCo ones that came off the car didn't. The Moog seem a bit stronger, but anything is better than what I pulled off the car.

Silentnoise713 said:

Wow, that looks bad. I will say OE replica arms do look very weak but perhaps you should consider stronger/adjustable arms next time. Also, are your tires rubbing on the shock body!?

I like JBR arms but you can also find many alternatives on eBay. Personally, I don't like B&A replacement parts.
http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=43_57

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Old thread, relevant question...

That sucks about those B/A control arms!!!
Silentnoise -- Do you have to be lowered to use those JBR arms? This is just my wife's daily driver.

I still have no idea what I should be ordering. 80K miles with all stock everything. I am even more confused that there seems to be non consensus on exactly what sway bar bushings I should order, or now hear using 2012 stuff but not sure which stuff.

Grrr...

Dave88LX said:

Old thread, relevant question...

That sucks about those B/A control arms!!!
Silentnoise -- Do you have to be lowered to use those JBR arms? This is just my wife's daily driver.

I still have no idea what I should be ordering. 80K miles with all stock everything. I am even more confused that there seems to be non consensus on exactly what sway bar bushings I should order, or now hear using 2012 stuff but not sure which stuff.

Grrr...

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You can use adjustable control arms with stock setup. They give you the “added” ability for the alignment guy to adjust your rear camber setting. I personally went with SPC adjustable arms but really most “quality” aftermarket ones should be good too. Don’t let the shiny/fancy looking coating fool you. In most cases it is as simple as price dictates (assuming the name has been around and not some random new must-have company that’s untested).

You need to decide on your goal and how much you want to spend. Work within these boundaries but also be realistic. Don’t expect cheap stuff to have some magical ingredient. If you are staying with OE springs (ride height), you don't need adjustable control arms.

Thanks for the advice. Staying stock height (my wife needs all the ground clearance she can get, the way she drives!). (whistle)

Going to be redoing the front/rear suspension on her '08 Mz5 GT w/ ~86K miles on it.

I'm unfortunately not too familiar with the import/sport-compact type companies, all the stuff I know is American V8 racing.