Momentarily Unable to Unlock Doors

I've searched the threads and haven't seen this one. Yesterday - was unable to unlock the doors using the switch in the drivers door and the remote. I was able to manually unlock the doors, but couldn't open the hatch. Drove home, restarted car and the problem was gone. Anyone seen this problem? I don't want to get stuck someplace. I looked thru the shop manual. It appears all the locks are controlled by the driver's side lock electronics? May be a bad connection on the connector?

Thanks for any insights.

When you pull your key out does the chime continue to sound? If it does, replace the ignition switch. There is a TSB for it. Mine started to do that and I could lock or unlock with the fob or the door switch. I had to lock it with the key after closing the doors. Apparently the ignition switch remains in the open position and disables the ability to lock or unlock the doors.

Davicho said:

When you pull your key out does the chime continue to sound? If it does, replace the ignition switch. There is a TSB for it. Mine started to do that and I could lock or unlock with the fob or the door switch. I had to lock it with the key after closing the doors. Apparently the ignition switch remains in the open position and disables the ability to lock or unlock the doors.

Click to expand...

That makes sense - also probably explains why it reset itself - when the key was pulled out, it probably reset the ignition switch. I'll have to check it out, the next time it happens. Too bad I'm out of warranty - could get the TSB done for free. The only difference is that I believe I could lock the doors, just not unlock them. It could be a different problem, I'll have the check the vin number for applicability.

Thanks

edit - found the TSB (google is your friend) reproduced here for reference:

MULTI-MODEL - KEY REMINDER CHIME KEEPS CHIMING OR KEYLESS ENTRY INOPERATIVE

BULLETIN NOTE: This bulletin supercedes the previous bulletin 09-32/06 issued on 7/18/06. The SUBJECT has been revised.

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS^ 2004 - 2006 Mazda3 vehicles with VINs lower than JM1 BK**** **526084 (produced before April 18, 2006)

^ 2006 Mazda5 vehicles with VINs lower than JM1 CR**** **125853 (produced before April 18, 2006)


DESCRIPTION

On some vehicles, the key reminder chime keeps chiming even though the key is pulled out of the ignition. In addition, the doors cannot be locked with the keyless entry system. This is caused by an internal failure from a contact plate that was not properly molded.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE

1. Verify customer concern.

2. Record the customer's radio station presets.

3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

4. Remove the column cover. Refer to Mazda3 Workshop Manual section 09-17 COLUMN COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION or Mazda5 Workshop Manual section 09-17 COLUMN COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.

5. Remove the ignition switch from the steering lock.

6. Disconnect the connector from the ignition switch by pulling down on the lever.

7. Reconnect the connector to the new ignition switch.

8. Install the new ignition switch.

9. Install the column cover.

10. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

11. Verify repair.

12. Reset the customer's radio station presets.
__________________
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No worries about it being covered for free. It's actually a pretty cheap and easy fix. Mine started occasionally doing it and progressively got worse. I paid I think about $45 for switch and literally 10 mins to change it.

Anyone had this problem on a 2010 Mazda5? We've had our 2010 Mazda5 since it was new and it just started this recently. Pull the key out, try to exit the car, key chime keeps chiming. Power lock on the door won't work; remote lock on the fob won't work. Only way to lock/unlock the doors is with the physical key in the driver's door. Very annoying. I tried replacing the ignition switch but it didn't do any good. Just to be clear, by ignition switch I mean the part that the wiring harness plugs into, not the part the key goes into. I replaced this part. Anyone? I followed the TSB but I'm not 100% confident because the TSB is for older models. I'm tempted to take the switch back to the dealer and ask for a replacement, but then I'm just trying switches trying to find a good one. My spidey senses tell me it's not the switch, if only because it didn't happen for 5 years and now it's happening daily, even after replacing the switch.