rear sway end links?

Wackys13

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2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
My rear passenger side end link broke last week so I got some new ones for the rear but I can't get the stocks off. Nut over the two bolts loosens to a certain point then the whole bolt turns with it and can't grqb it from the other side? I'm sure this is a simple solution and I'm just missing something.
 

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Id try to get some vise grips that could fit, if not you will need to cut the nut.
 
Angle grinder w/cutting wheel or air chisel is how I removed mine. You can also use a hack saw (long time) or a sawzall (if your careful)
 
Vice grips have worked for me in the past. If you don't have thin enough vice grips, you can rip off the rubber boot to expose a little more metal to grab onto.
 
i got a wrench and a allen wrench that fit the hole and then hold it with the allen wrench and turn the bolt with ur wrench!
 
how do you torque it? the service manual says to torque 32-44 ft lbs. i can't use a torque wrench and the allen at the same time
 
I used an air chisel. Took about 10 seconds.
 
ok i found online that people use crowfoot wrenches on their torque wrench to properly torque the end link nuts. regarding the front end links (i know this is a thread about the rear) that makes sense for the top nut, how about the bottom nut where its facing the opposite direction, and there is even less space to work in?
 
Torque values aren't really that important honestly, don't stress is all I am saying. As long as they are tight you won't have any problems.
 
it is as tight as i could get it with a combination wrench and the allen wrench. but after a day driving with the new end link installed, it is rattling and clunking much louder than before. i read that bad end links were normally the culprit of clunking and rattling (msp beat rear sway bar not withstanding, which i dont have). i am hoping proper torquing of the nut will quiet that down.
 
Endlinks are not a great design, because the bolt is at a 90 degree from the stress it is bearing. The nut has to be tight enough to keep the bolt from shifting back and forth within the holes on the sway bar and the strut, and they aren't really designed for that.

Find nuts with the largest surface area with the serrated surface. I found mine at ACE. They've done well.
 
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