Remote Starter Door Bypass?

This is no drawback, but when you car get stolen, good luck explaining it to the insurance company.
Umm... I started the car and left it running, some guy walked up to it and drove off... oops...
We have so many reports every winter about cars being stolen during "warm-ups"

Being stolen is a good enough reason for me not to bypass the brake pedal....it really serves no purpose.
 
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This is no drawback, but when you car get stolen, good luck explaining it to the insurance company.
Umm... I started the car and left it running, some guy walked up to it and drove off... oops...
We have so many reports every winter about cars being stolen during "warm-ups"
Never had remote start but I thought you still need to insert the key to unlock the steering column and get out of Park, no?
 
Never had remote start but I thought you still need to insert the key to unlock the steering column and get out of Park, no?

Well, I've see ppl brake locks just by hands if they are strong. and if brakes work, it will come out of park.
Also on some remotes they use brakes for programming.
 
No properly installed remote starter ever got a car stolen. You must press the brake at some point which will kill the engine. Having it tied to the door is ridiculous and wasteful as you have to start the engine again. You would only need the key to unlock the column provided it was locked in the first place. I'm sure that cars are stolen when warming them up when people just leave them running with keys unattended. Those are probably the same people who tell the insurance company the truth about it too lol.
 
It would be nearly impossible to steal one with the remote start system activated, it would be easier to steal the car without the system active. I thought Mazda received enough negative feedback about this that they switched back to the brake override setup again (so doors don't kill it)?
 
I have remote start on both of my other cars and they DO NOT have the door disable function. Both have brake-disable and Key disable functions. Having to re-start the car is just ludicrous but I'm sure this has to do something with Dealer Install legalities. O'well, haven't decided yet.. To clip or not to clip..HMMMM..LOL
 
I have installed factory remote start in my 2010 Mazda 5 touring and opening doors doesn't kill the engine.
 
Someone sent me a PM asking if everything was still working with my remote start, after clipping the door ajar wire.

I actually live about 1,500 miles away from my sister who owns the 5 -- but through the magic of modern technology I was able to follow up.

No ill effects in the last 18 months from clipping the wire. At least not on her 2012.

Some cars have a factory installed remote start that is tightly integrated with the onboard computer and security systems -- not the Mazda system. It is a separate box that I am about 95% sure is not made by Mazda, but made by a supplier to Mazda spec. I'm sure it's an off-the-shelf remote start like you might get at Auto Zone, with a little Mazda secret sauce stirred in to bypass the car's security systems.

The reason clipping the wire has no ill effect is because the wire's only purpose is to run to a circuit in the remote start box that kills the engine if the doors are open. When the wire is clipped, the box just becomes oblivious to the fact that the doors have been opened.

As others have noted -- other systems (Factory installed, 100% aftermarket) do not have a similar door-kill switch and this was probably added at a lawyers request.

I would not disable the brake pedal kill switch. Just make sure you turn the key to "On" (Not "start") after you get in the car, before touching the brake pedal.
 
I just now snipped the yellow wire with the black stripe, and it worked as advertised up thread!

My only guidance is that I did NOT go via the glove box, but instead accessed the wire harness from the footwell, by removing a small, black, snap-in kick-panel that blocks the space between the glove box hinge and the firewall. Once I contorted my body down there into the footwell, I immediately saw a "loose" bundle of wires that had been attached to a factory-tight loom via a couple of small, black zip ties. Within that loose bundle was the aforementioned yellow with black wire. I never saw/noticed the "grey switch", but it's possible it's there and I'm just an idiot. I snipped the yellow with black wire, and capped each end with a tiny plastic acorn nut.

Long story short, I'm happy as a clam that the remote car starter now works as expected, and will allow us to get the kids and groceries loaded up without killing the engine. Feel free to PM me if you want any other input or tips.
 
I just now snipped the yellow wire with the black stripe, and it worked as advertised up thread!

My only guidance is that I did NOT go via the glove box, but instead accessed the wire harness from the footwell, by removing a small, black, snap-in kick-panel that blocks the space between the glove box hinge and the firewall. Once I contorted my body down there into the footwell, I immediately saw a "loose" bundle of wires that had been attached to a factory-tight loom via a couple of small, black zip ties. Within that loose bundle was the aforementioned yellow with black wire. I never saw/noticed the "grey switch", but it's possible it's there and I'm just an idiot. I snipped the yellow with black wire, and capped each end with a tiny plastic acorn nut.

Long story short, I'm happy as a clam that the remote car starter now works as expected, and will allow us to get the kids and groceries loaded up without killing the engine. Feel free to PM me if you want any other input or tips.

Glad to hear good news, I'll probably do this shortly!! Thanks
 
I looked at mine some time ago, there were no yellow and black wires. I did find the control module but it was located up under the dash above the brake pedal.
 
Just did this, that pdf made it a lot easier choosing the right yellow/black wire. There are 3 or 4 under my glovebox, they may all be for the same thing but the wire coming out of cavity 10 was black with a yellow stripe running straight down it and it did the trick.
 
I must be missing something here can anyone post some detailed pictures I'm having a hard time following the PDF guide. I've also tried to remove the foot kick plates (not sure if this was on driver or passenger side) as mentioned by another user but I don't see any "loose" wiring.

Also, no one has actually confirmed that when you disable this door function all you have to do is press the push button start and go on? DO you still have to start the vehicle a second time.
 
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