Need help with removing crankshaft pulley bolt/screw

N

nlinesk8s

Member

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mazda, protege5 '02

• Dec 11, 2011

• #1

I'm in the middlee of a timing belt change, and I'm at the point of getting off the crankshaft pulley screw. I'm next going to try a large air wrench next, as mine didn't touch it. I have to wonder if there isn't some tool for holding the pulley fixed while getting it loose. I'm really concerned about putting the screw back on, as if you don't get the right torque, the pulley wobbles and bye bye crankshaft nose.

I tried putting the car in gear and putting on the brakes, but that didn't seem to do much (maybe clutch is going-sigh). Strap wrench didn't hold either. As I live in he land of ice and salt, the pulley screw is probably at least partly rusted on.

I do note that it looks like there are two m4 holes about 3 7/8" apart, which might allow a spanner of some kind to hold the pulley.

Any ideas?

 

S

Spiced MSP

Member

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2016 Peterbilt 579

• Dec 12, 2011

• #2

breaker bar and a couple of bumps with the ignition always works. Just make sure the breaker bar is against something solid under the car and bump the ignition without cranking it. Just a couple of quick flicks should break it loose. I couldn't get mine with an impact wrench

 

KMac

Zoomin' since 2003

:

Mazda Protege5, 02

• Dec 12, 2011

• #3

Spiced MSP said:

breaker bar and a couple of bumps with the ignition always works. Just make sure the breaker bar is against something solid under the car and bump the ignition without cranking it. Just a couple of quick flicks should break it loose. I couldn't get mine with an impact wrench

Click to expand...

Yep, that is the only way to really get this bad boy off. I am running 160# of air through my impact and it was no match for this one. I bumped the key a couple of times with the car up in the air high enough that I could put an extension on the breaker bar so it would impact the ground at better angle. This mad a world of difference. Make sure everyone is clear of the car too just in case the socket comes off.

 

N

nlinesk8s

Member

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mazda, protege5 '02

• Dec 12, 2011

• #4

Thanks guys; I'll get a short socket and give it a try. The car is well up in the air, so it should be ok.

 

R

RABID_MP5

Member

:

2002 Protege5

• Dec 12, 2011

• #5

If the starter just engages and halts, you can CAREFULLY use momentum to your advantage. I wedged the breaker against the bolt once and let the bar swing like 1/4 turn till it hit some wood and padding i had rigged. That did work after like 4 whacks. I used an old beam type 150ft# torque wrench when I did this. When I was done I had bent the head of it like 20 degrees(!) But the damn bolt came off....

Again, only if you have no other way. I've been using a good air impact gun since then.

 

Last edited: Dec 12, 2011

N

nlinesk8s

Member

:

mazda, protege5 '02

• Dec 27, 2011

• #6

thanks for all the responses. I'm working to try and find the factory tools, as bumping the starter didn't do the job. I did however, note the horrible shape my motor mounts are in. I HATE timing belt changes just because of getting the stupid bolt off and properly retorqued; the fact all of the rusted splash cover bolts broke off is another. On the other hand, the guards are only like $22 each new, which was a pleasant surprise.

 

D

DanYo

Member

• Jan 8, 2012

• #7

Did you ever remove the pulley?

 

N

nlinesk8s

Member

:

mazda, protege5 '02

• Feb 6, 2012

• #8

I did finally get the screw and pulley off, by making my own tooling.

I got some sheet metal plate and put a 1.25" hole in the center to clear the large socket, and a couple of 3/8 (9.5mm) holes 2 7/8" inches apart, centered about the large hole.

I added some other holes along the bottom of the plate to connect to something to restrain rotation, and connected the plate to a handle (you could use a 2x4 or anything convenient). I used m8 screws to attach the plate to the pulley. I think they were 25mm long, but can't remember for sure.

I saw on another forum where someone used some hardboard with those three holes, but made it large enough to react against the ground. In any case for me the plate was a machine shop item, although it was simple and cheap. The dealer wanted $100 and two weeks for the SST.