Jedidiah55
McNoobin'
- :
- 2003 Protege 5 V6 GT
lol i haven't done that yet
Fastest klze swap?
- Thread starter Slotege5_2003
- Start date
Slotege5_2003
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I still like it. Lol
@Lewis....I'm sure he does get a little burnt out on that. I guess just the way he posted it rubbed me the wrong way. Nothing personal.
@Lewis....I'm sure he does get a little burnt out on that. I guess just the way he posted it rubbed me the wrong way. Nothing personal.
forced_pgt
Member
- :
- Probe GT KLZE turbo
I honestly thought it would be much harder to do this then it really was. Kinda wanna do it again. lol
Love seeing MAF swaps all over the place now.
Love seeing MAF swaps all over the place now.
Last edited:
Well I'm using OBD2 Milly parts so the MAF is part of the deal.
This was my first real swap so it took a while for me to get things sorted out, especially the wiring. And not having a daily driver kinda sucked for runs to the JY and parts store. Thank god for good friends and my GF.
So you guys have your KL already running and everything is gravy now?
This was my first real swap so it took a while for me to get things sorted out, especially the wiring. And not having a daily driver kinda sucked for runs to the JY and parts store. Thank god for good friends and my GF.
So you guys have your KL already running and everything is gravy now?
forced_pgt
Member
- :
- Probe GT KLZE turbo
Just gotta install the tach converter and the exhaust next weekend. He drove it all over the place today though, open y-pipe and all. Not even a hiccup.
I have an almost unhealthy knowledge of the KL so that helps alot. Two years ago I pulled a ZE swap in my Probe in 4 1/2 hours if that says anything. (boom06)
The only real time consuming part was the wiring, mainly due to sketchy and scarce info. Once everything is completely done, Im going to make a writeup that shows how to completely eliminate the stock ECU and engine harness to make it all seamless and look like factory.
Ya know Lewis, your a step ahead with the MAF if you decide you need to boost... (burnout)
I have an almost unhealthy knowledge of the KL so that helps alot. Two years ago I pulled a ZE swap in my Probe in 4 1/2 hours if that says anything. (boom06)
The only real time consuming part was the wiring, mainly due to sketchy and scarce info. Once everything is completely done, Im going to make a writeup that shows how to completely eliminate the stock ECU and engine harness to make it all seamless and look like factory.
Ya know Lewis, your a step ahead with the MAF if you decide you need to boost... (burnout)
Last edited:
Jedidiah55
McNoobin'
- :
- 2003 Protege 5 V6 GT
i wish my engine looked factory, but i taped my harness up after tearing it to pieces so it doesn't look to pretty for now
forced_pgt
Member
- :
- Probe GT KLZE turbo
Im bored @ work so here is a rough engine bay shot.
forced_pgt
Member
- :
- Probe GT KLZE turbo
Thought I would toss a few more things up here while im waiting for it to get above freezing outside so we can run the exhaust.
This is the P5 radiator with the AC (passenger) side of the fan which was cut from the Probe assembly. One of the bolt holes will line up on the top of the radiator when the fan is turned on its side and just a regular 10mm head bolt secures it. Had to get a little creative with the bottom using the stock radiator mounting points. In this pic you can see the bolt and locknut has the end of the bolt on top of the shroud, while the slightly longer bolt and locknut actually go into a hole I drilled into the side of the shroud. The fan is VERY sturdy.
You can see just how well the fan fits on the P5 radiator.
There are really only two important outputs from this plug in the stock fusebox. One is the starter output, which is tapped into the Probe harness which allows the P5 to crank the motor, and key-on power, which I have controlling two relays that supply fused power to the injectors, ignition coil, and ECU. I removed all the extra wires from this plug. There was no wire in the plug at the key-on power position so I simply moved a wire in the plug to this position.
This is the P5 radiator with the AC (passenger) side of the fan which was cut from the Probe assembly. One of the bolt holes will line up on the top of the radiator when the fan is turned on its side and just a regular 10mm head bolt secures it. Had to get a little creative with the bottom using the stock radiator mounting points. In this pic you can see the bolt and locknut has the end of the bolt on top of the shroud, while the slightly longer bolt and locknut actually go into a hole I drilled into the side of the shroud. The fan is VERY sturdy.
You can see just how well the fan fits on the P5 radiator.
There are really only two important outputs from this plug in the stock fusebox. One is the starter output, which is tapped into the Probe harness which allows the P5 to crank the motor, and key-on power, which I have controlling two relays that supply fused power to the injectors, ignition coil, and ECU. I removed all the extra wires from this plug. There was no wire in the plug at the key-on power position so I simply moved a wire in the plug to this position.
forced_pgt
Member
- :
- Probe GT KLZE turbo
Threw an exhaust together for the Prote today. Half probe piping/ resonator, and the other half is stock protege with a 10 year old dual tip OBX-R muffler.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OoVSO6XgEU0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OoVSO6XgEU0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Jedidiah55
McNoobin'
- :
- 2003 Protege 5 V6 GT
you battery light doesn't stay on does it? cause i cant get mine to go off and i want it to work
forced_pgt
Member
- :
- Probe GT KLZE turbo
I know I have not hooked it up yet and the P5 harness is completely un-powered. It does not come on at all, whether the car is running or not so it either because its not hooked up or the bulb is dead. lol. It is more than likely set up on a circuit that triggers the light to go off only after the voltage rises above 12.5-130v. It IS one of the things i will be looking into tomorrow when I take care of the tach, speedo, and oil lights. Ill keep you posted.
Slotege5_2003
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Newest additon
Jedidiah55
McNoobin'
- :
- 2003 Protege 5 V6 GT
pro5 pin 30 and 52 run to the alt and and 42 pin runs to the light, you need both 30 and 52 working to turn the light on and off
i have the 30 wire running to the 3G wire for now and im thinking about running the 52 wire to that as well and seeing if it works
i have the 30 wire running to the 3G wire for now and im thinking about running the 52 wire to that as well and seeing if it works
Awesome Protege6 badge. And well done on the progress. I still need to hook up my battery light too so thanks for the info guys. I have a ricer voltage gauge on my battery so I know it's charging at least. heh-heh
Slotege5_2003
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Thanks, Lewis.
Jedidiah55
McNoobin'
- :
- 2003 Protege 5 V6 GT
volt meter thats what like 20 hp right? or did you get a carbon fiber voltage meter cause thats like another 30 hp
wrong 3G wire in earlier post
but this is what i did
i hooked the pro5 wire to the kl wire was hoping if one worked that it would cancel the light but i was wrong
sorry if those are large
im about to cross the two wires on the pro5 harness and see if that works, and idk what the 3G on the wire refers to, cause my pinouts say it a crank sensor
crossing the wires didn't work
wrong 3G wire in earlier post
but this is what i did
i hooked the pro5 wire to the kl wire was hoping if one worked that it would cancel the light but i was wrong
sorry if those are large
im about to cross the two wires on the pro5 harness and see if that works, and idk what the 3G on the wire refers to, cause my pinouts say it a crank sensor
crossing the wires didn't work
Last edited:
It's good for 20whp, AT LEAST. That's what the eBay seller told me... lulz. I wanted new battery terminals for all the new wiring anyway and it still works like a champ.
I had the pinouts for the battery light written in my swap notes, I just gotta find them after the Trick and/or Treaters are gone later.
I had the pinouts for the battery light written in my swap notes, I just gotta find them after the Trick and/or Treaters are gone later.
forced_pgt
Member
- :
- Probe GT KLZE turbo
The battery light is controlled completely by the P5 ECM. The P5 ecu contains the brains of the original alternator while the KL alty is self contained. Since the P5 ECU doesnt see the old alty, its illuminating the battery light. Im not willing to leave the entire P5 ECU in just to control one dumb light so I will figure out something later. I did notice that if a ground is present on the wire that goes to the cluster, the light will come on, and if it is disconnected, it will stay off.
Anyone have a cluster wiring diagram? I need some wiring info on the coolant gauge and the speedo.
The stock engine harness and P5 ECU are now completely gone from the car as of this evening. Had gobs of spaghetti everywhere. lol
Still not quite finished yet. Have to wire the A/C high/low pressure switches, wire the coolant temp gauge and the speedo. I might add that Dakota Digital tach interface is a pretty nifty unit.
Anyone have a cluster wiring diagram? I need some wiring info on the coolant gauge and the speedo.
The stock engine harness and P5 ECU are now completely gone from the car as of this evening. Had gobs of spaghetti everywhere. lol
Still not quite finished yet. Have to wire the A/C high/low pressure switches, wire the coolant temp gauge and the speedo. I might add that Dakota Digital tach interface is a pretty nifty unit.
