Fastest klze swap?

mine's taken like.....3 months now: and as of today I'm here:
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Yes, Jim, but you didn't beat me bad. A hair more than a car isn't bad considering you're boosted on 5lbs. I must say though, you have absolutely no lag what-so-ever.
 
Yes, Jim, but you didn't beat me bad. A hair more than a car isn't bad considering you're boosted on 5lbs. I must say though, you have absolutely no lag what-so-ever.

Lol, this is why there isn't a whole lot of top end either. Its all midrange. Though I've been doing some thinking again on my eventual goals for my car. ;)
 
Got mine running today! I need a lot of vacuum hoses, plug the EGR port on the back of the intake manifold, get the radiator in, radiator hoses, battery, Probe A/C compressor, both belts, clutch line, etc etc etc, before it's drivable, and then more stuff before I can really drive it. Progress is progress though...
 
Right on man! But damn, 4 years? :p

I would highly recommend against running it without coolant in the system because these waterpumps get very unhappy without the lubrication from the coolant. The seals will crack with a quickness.
 
Didn't have either drive belts on. Merely started it to make sure we did that part of the wiring right. Just about every vac port was open so it wouldn't stay running anyway. lol Proof of concept nonetheless... :)
 
lol, I did the same thing at first. I cranked it from under the hood and it fired up (didnt anticipate it starting) with just the exhaust primaries attached. Its a good thing the hood was not installed yet because I probably would have left an imprint of my face on it. Sucker was L-O-U-D.
 
Off topic here. Do any of you guys know if the stock IAC valve on an FSDE P5 uses the coolant flow-through to signal operation? If not what sensors does the IAC read from? thanks
 
The coolant that flows through the IAC doesnt really signal anything. It simply warms a valve full of paraffin wax which expands or contracts according to the coolant temperature which controls an air bypass around the throttle plate. It is a separate system from the air screw and the electric solenoid.
 
Wish I had a Probe GT sitting around. Loved how fast you two did this swap. Especially moving to one ECU and doing all the pin outs. (bowdown)

This was a 95 or 96 GT that you got the engine from? Why change from the straight neck to the curve neck? I think I missed that part.

Last question, what do you think it cost ya?
 
^doing math for lewis' build page...$2000+

i'd much rather buy an accord and junkyard turbo it though. although, i would be pretty happy if i had a V6 p5
 
Well, lets see. He bought the donor Probe from me for $250, then bought the ZE for it for $1k. The Probe was hydrolocked after a nasty storm, then the Protege was bought with the intention of swapping the ZE after rebuilding it with a new block and rods, so only $50 for the needed parts to get the motor back together. Grand total ~$1300, if you want to include the original $1K purchase of the ZE.

The donor car was a 95, and by the way, there has not been a single check engine light since completion. :)

The curveneck mani was chosen for two reasons. Ease of fitment, and better low to mid range torque over a straight neck, despite the VRIS points being slightly off.

A junkyard non-built turbo accord is still gonna be slower than a ZE P5. :p


We had a minor hiccup earlier in the week. The trans let go and locked in 2nd gear. We knew it was coming though because the trans case had been welded back together before and made horrible noises since I originally bought the donor Probe it came in. Tossed a new trans in today in a little under three hours. Made a time lapse video of the swap but I want to add a bit of footage of the car in action tomorrow evening. Ill post it when Im done tomorrow. For now Ill show off my vid of my 4 1/2 hr ZE swap on my car two years ago. (jerkit) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffO6R8vlJ8c
 
dunno about that lol. 500-1000 for jy parts, pistons and rods for maybe 1500 more. or maybe bisimoto forged rod and piston set for 800. bam 250-300whp no problem. f22a/bx can handle boost pretty damn well :). non built motor can go up to 240whp just fine. doing mid to low 15s with just slap on parts lol. but i also used to own one so im biased a bit haha


hence why i stated the accord. for the same price of the total build..more power, better 1/4 mile BUT less cool lol. nothing against the V6 build whatsoever. just not for those who have shallow pockets lol
 
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I did the math once, came out around 2000.
But I picked up a probe that had been in an accident, pulled the engine and all the parts I needed (almost, missed a few lol) sold the rest. I'm currently at par. Plan to spend like a grand on performce and preventative maintenance.
Still a KLDE but it's got less mileage then my car!
More work than just buying a ze but this way I have a functioning obd2 system
 
You may end up with 250HP, but its a heavy car. Jim has a bit over 250HP in his boosted probe, and he only beat me bya little over a car. Not to mention mine is unique and reliable. ;)
 
If you are frugal with your money and shop around a bunch, and go with a KLDE instead of a ZE, the entire V6 swap can easily be done for well under $1k. If 165chp isnt enough, the KLDE takes to boost incredibly well. Reliability doesnt become an issue until around the 300hp mark on a completely stock motor. Despite going with quality parts, I moved from N/A to boost for under $1K. Reliably. Going by air flow rates from the MAF, I am somewhere between 260-270chp. So for $2k, you can make a P5 pretty ridiculous with the V6 swap.
 
mine's cost more than I originally thought - but I have had issues out the wazoo.

KLDE and atx (original build direction) 900 delivered.
odds and ins - 300
then....atx crapped out - so - JY MTX - 150
flywheel - 50
clutch kit - 100
ecu/wiring harness - 150
gaskets to rebuild atx - 30
new solenoids in atx - 45
o2 sensors - 20 (jy)

so.....it's not the large expendetures that have gotten me - it's all the small s*** adding up.

Now - I'm sitting with a KLDE/mtx that won't start (having issues somewhere electrically I do believe.)
 
You may end up with 250HP, but its a heavy car. Jim has a bit over 250HP in his boosted probe, and he only beat me bya little over a car. Not to mention mine is unique and reliable. ;)

lol cb7 accord weighs roughly 2700lbs. wagons are around 2900lbs
protege5 is roughly 2700lbs
i dont see your point here lol.


on topic
any engine pics of the p5 v6 turbo? never seen one. didnt think there would be enough room lol
 
There's plenty of room honestly (in mine). With the removal of the atx - I've got tons of room on the driver side engine bay.

That's where the magic would happen for me.
 
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