alright - here goes. KL-P5-take2

^^^ I concur, just tap the green part of the axle with a BFH and they will pop out, no worries. Now getting the axles out of the hub is a different story. But you're in Texas so you should be fine. And remember when putting the axles back in the opening on the little C-slip on the end off the axle has to be on top. You'll see what I mean when you pull them out.

And thanks for the heads up on the HF hoist and stand, I might be picking those up myself soon as well. :)

Best of luck!
 
that green insulator (that's what I keep calling it....looks like a big green canister on the interior of the axle, right by the tranny housing) - do I need to wedge a screwdriver/prybar in between that and the case of the tranny? Or just tap the green dealy with a hammer and pop it out?

Going to be keeping the A/C also on the 5. I saw a writeup by someone here stating that the lines are just about identical, and minimal adjustments had to be made to make them fit. THAT will save my bacon down here in the humidity capital of the world......aka Houston, TX.

Got ebay headers, an ebay special muffler also......so can't wait to hear it run for the first time!
 
its just held in by a C clip. so you can use a pry bar, a big flat head screw driver, or whatever else you want. its just whatever is the easiest way for you to make the C clip pop.

i use a pickle fork myself. which is used to separate ball joints and stuff. its always been the easiest way for me.
 
stock-photo-large-dill-pickle-on-a-fork-isolated-silhouette-with-a-clipping-path-on-white-background-48793153.jpg


idk how that works for you

jk
 
many lulz....many....

Well - started tearing into the KL lastnight. Got the trans seperated, engine on the hoist (from the pallett), and then to the stand. Within 2 hours - I had it stripped down to the bare valvetrain. Painted the valvecovers wrinkle black and tonight I'm going back to make the last details to those (sand down the letters to make them shine through). Tonight I'll paint the intake and TB too just to clean them up a lil. Looking lastnight - it's definitely a bigger pilot pulley on the waterpump and it has a temp sensor in the water neck - so I'm guessing it's a gen2 KL. Taking that hydraulic tensioner off too......it's not budging and seems stuck/locked/frozen. So - got a shopping list for the auto parts store later on:

water pump
timing belt
hydraulic tensioner
disty cap
pcv valve
vris solenoids (both are smashed from shipping.......grrrrrrr)


Something else - I was looking at the VRIS vacuum solenoids atop the intake - and they're all smashed to shiz! Are those pieces readily available that ya'll have seen?

Lewis had a picture of how he did his AFPR. Where did you get that adapter that goes into the end of the fuelrail for the stock fpr > AFPR mod? It's got 2 bolts, it's kinda oval'ish shaped and has a NPT nipple on the end of it (I think....). I need one to make my finishing touch there (put the AFPR on). Gonna drill out the banjo bolt (fuel) a lil (I think ya'll said 6mm would suffice) for some more go-juice.

Got my new wires, plugs, CAI, Transmission Cooler (Hayden OC-1676) and a few more things ready for the swap.

It's happening finally! I'm excited as hell!
 
pics of the engine, and look for the head stamps they are located
Closeupofheads.jpg

there and look for the engine stamp idk where they are, i think mine was pulled off
 
also - what sizes are the valvecover bolts? I'm looking at possibly just getting some new hardware to clean it up (anodized blue or chrome head bolts). Would look trick against the wrinkle black.
 
Worked on the ol' girl for a few hours tonight. Got the following all buttoned up:

intake painted/cleaned up/put back on
valve covers detailed and put back on
plugs/wires installed
disty cap/rotor done
waterpump done
t-belt done

Tomorrow's list (tenative.....deciding whether or not to take the wife to the Lone Star Rally to take a break):
pull FSDE junk.....still don't know what to do with the carcass....
finish up the KL (belts, vacuum lines, fuel situation) (still need a new VRIS solenoid setup.....the one that is on it is fk'd....)
do a once and twice over on the engine bay (new harness install, housecleaning, painting, new mounting points for items)

and.....work on my buddy's 99 ram 1500. Trans is having shifting difficulties from 1-2 and 2-3 when hot. I'm thinking a governor pressure switch (clean and reinstall to deduce the options at that point...).

All in all - it was a good night of intense building! The valvecovers look HOT! All high temp paints, polished lettering on the front cover, thick layer of silver on intake, blue metal-flake on the fuel rail caps, and blue 10mm spark plug wires to top it off. I'll post the pics I took tonight from my new blackberry, because the wife misplaced the charger for the camera.......grrrr.

Til' tomorrow!
 
Finally uploading some pics from the past 2 days work. Please excuse the quality....blackberry cameraphones BLOW!!!

I do need some info though: Someone that's done a KL swap :

What transmission bracketery do I need to use to attach the mount?
IMG-20111105-00024.jpg

Does anyone have a vacuum diagram I can use to rebuild all the vacuum lines?
IMG-20111105-00029.jpg

I looked at the VRIS solenoids, which were broken. Now...I took the ones from the FS and put them on the KL.....what are the differences between the 2? actuation points?

IMG-20111105-00023.jpg

TexasCity-LeagueCity-20111105-00034.jpg

TexasCity-LeagueCity-20111104-00020.jpg

TexasCity-LeagueCity-20111104-00018.jpg

TexasCity-LeagueCity-20111104-00017.jpg

TexasCity-LeagueCity-20111104-00016.jpg

TexasCity-LeagueCity-20111104-00015.jpg

IMG-20111105-00031.jpg

IMG-20111105-00027.jpg

IMG-20111105-00026.jpg
 
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Got the engine and trans mated back together now. The issue that I have at the moment that's stopping forward progress......
....the mounts. Yep. I assumed that they'd work (being that there's only minor changes that need to happen with the manual version of this swap) and you know what happens when you assume anything...

Anyways - I need to know from someone - what's with the "left" transmission mounting bracket? Is it an adapter plate that goes on the transmission, then the mount bolts to that? Is it just like the one that came off the FS, concept wise? I've looked for mounts and brackets, and I just want to get a solid answer before ordering 200 bucks worth of mounts just to find out they WILL NOT work...ya know?

Also, the wiring is off a bit. Looking at the alternator lastnight (for example), the alternator that's on the KL right now has a 3-pin plug. The wiring harness I have places a stud-mount copper connection (Battery "+", I'm guessing) and the oil sending unit wire and a 2-pin plug right there. I don't see another 3-pin plug that fits this alternator, so it's gotta just be an oddity. I'm starting to wonder if it'd be easier to just pin out my own damn wiring harness and make one.....
 
i got a harness and cut it open and cut out what i didnt want or needed but my harness doesn't look the best
 
Looks are one thing - funcationality is what I'm trying to capture here....lol.

Looking through the sea of mounts yesterday.....it seems I may as well just nut-up and spend the 200+ bucks for mounts. The possibilities are endless though....looking for a definite motor set, and add the dismay of looking for an ATX set also....that's quite a headache!

Still wondering about the wiring harness though. Just seeing a 3-pin plug on the alternator, and a 2-pin plug on my wiring harness....scares me a little.
 
I don't know the details on the KL alternator, but I know that when I did my OBD-1 B18C swap into my OBD-2 Civic, I had to re-wire the alternator because there was a completely different plug between the two. For yours, there could have been a wiring difference between years or something.
 
Thx Phen - I'll follow that lead and see where it takes me. If it's just as easy as changing a plug and running an extra wire - that shouldn't be much of a challenge at all, I'd think.
 
Refresh my memory, which model/year harness are you using for the engine bay? If it's just a simple fix like Phen said then you might be okay, or you might need to swap alternators with the year of your wiring harness. I know a lot of guys with swaps in Probes say you have to keep all the years the same with the harness, disty, etc. KL's are pretty interchangable except for the electronics. For instance, my KLK1 JDM KL ECU that came with my motor won't work with my 95 USDM Milly disty. They're weird like that.

I wish I could help with the tranny mount but my swap was a manual and all the FS mounts bolted up to the KL motor and KL bell housing just fine. I can snap some pics of my tranny mount on my Milly after work tonight if that would help?
 
that would do me a WORLD of good Lewie - I'm scouring the interwebz for mounts.......and think I know what I need - but want to be sure before blowing a large wad of cash on something that won't work.

Any and all info will help!

the harness, ecu, vaf, tcm, tranny harness all came from a 95 mx6 ls atx, ie - KL86
 
fuel rail adapter is on the way - I got one on ebay for 9 bucks. This will allow the use of the AFPR I have, to adjust the fuel pressure.

I'm getting excited! Got the driver-side upper tranny mount on the way too. There was 1 for the ATX 626/MX6/PGT and it has to fit. It should be here in a few days - that gives me a little more time to judge and make the calls I Need to make to get things rolling along nicely.

Tranny cooler, flexi-rad lines (I'm reusing the p5 rad), and some lines to do the fuel, the heater core, and some vacuum thingies.....coming along.

About that alternator - it looks like a milly alt (110 amp). it definitely has 3 pins - I'll check out how to wire it into a 2-wire scenario.....wiring diagrams...here I come!
 

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